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Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!
Can you guys go into detail on what you're talking about? I don't know enough to why or what he did with the handle but it looks rad and I want to understand.

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wormil
Sep 12, 2002

Hulk will smoke you!

mattwhoo posted:

No I used a hand drill and some files and a bunch of swearing and a good amount of vodka and a metric poo poo ton of epoxy. I looked online and found some examples of some broaching tools people have made/used I am now in the process of making one. I will post some pics of it when It's done.

I have also seen tools made from a jigsaw blade, after your first hole/holes are drilled, just jam it in there and saw it out.

Splizwarf posted:

Can you guys go into detail on what you're talking about? I don't know enough to why or what he did with the handle but it looks rad and I want to understand.

The knife is a hidden tang, so the metal part of the handle is hidden inside the wood. You need a hole that matches the shape of the tang. There are several ways to do it including heating the steel very hot and burning a hole, drilling/filing/cutting/shaping a hole, or making the handle in 2 halves with the space already cut.

wormil fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Apr 25, 2016

jackpot
Aug 31, 2004

First cousin to the Black Rabbit himself. Such was Woundwort's monument...and perhaps it would not have displeased him.<
How tight/loose should pins be? Should I have to tap them in with a mallet, or should they be loose enough to go in easily? Like I've got 3/16 pins, should I drill a 3/16" hole, or maybe 13/64" instead?

One reason I'm hesitant to do 3/16 is I'd have to be dead-on exact drilling all six holes; I don't have a lot of confidence in that. 13/64 gives me some wiggle room.

wormil
Sep 12, 2002

Hulk will smoke you!
I would use the 13/64 and peen them but I'm far from knowing what I'm talking about.

mattwhoo
Aug 26, 2009
Are you taking about the holes in the wood or the holes in the tang? I drill my wood holes the same size as the pins and I usually drill the tang holes a little bigger that gives me the wiggle room I need. That way the pins are nice and tight with the handle.

jackpot
Aug 31, 2004

First cousin to the Black Rabbit himself. Such was Woundwort's monument...and perhaps it would not have displeased him.<

mattwhoo posted:

Are you taking about the holes in the wood or the holes in the tang? I drill my wood holes the same size as the pins and I usually drill the tang holes a little bigger that gives me the wiggle room I need. That way the pins are nice and tight with the handle.
Cool, that's what I'm doing. The tang holes are just a smidge over 3/16 so there's some wiggle, but the holes in the wood are almost dead-on 3/16 so they fit more snug. Not so tight I have to tap them in, but snug. I read somewhere (can't find the link anymore) that having the pins too tight risks the wood cracking later on, so I wasn't sure about it.

jackpot fucked around with this message at 17:10 on May 2, 2016

Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.
Had steel left over, friend saw my first attempt and reacted with "I want one!", so wife suggested I make knives for said friend. I decided to go with cheese knives:





These are nos. 2 and 3 I ever made, so uh... scratches and dishing are still heavily featured. But they're well-received, so I'll just keep going and hopefully improve.

Until I lose access to the belt grinder :-/

10 Beers
May 21, 2005

Shit! I didn't bring a knife.

Trabant posted:

Had steel left over, friend saw my first attempt and reacted with "I want one!", so wife suggested I make knives for said friend. I decided to go with cheese knives:





These are nos. 2 and 3 I ever made, so uh... scratches and dishing are still heavily featured. But they're well-received, so I'll just keep going and hopefully improve.

Until I lose access to the belt grinder :-/

I like em! Very good looking knives.

jackpot
Aug 31, 2004

First cousin to the Black Rabbit himself. Such was Woundwort's monument...and perhaps it would not have displeased him.<
My dad got me some Woodcraft knife kits to play around with, and with the second one I'm having some fun doing file work. And it occurred to me last night, as I watched the epoxy ooze out the sides of handles I'd just glued on, that that epoxy is never, ever going to come out of the grooves I filed in my handle. How do people do this?

jackpot
Aug 31, 2004

First cousin to the Black Rabbit himself. Such was Woundwort's monument...and perhaps it would not have displeased him.<
First double post in 12 years!

mattwhoo
Aug 26, 2009
Not sure how you would get the epoxy out. I was thinking of doing some file work on the back of my handles as well. I was actually planning on tinting the epoxy black or something and let it fill in that way once I shaped the handle it will still be smooth along the top of the handle and it would make it pop really well against the steel. Take some pics would like to see them.

jackpot
Aug 31, 2004

First cousin to the Black Rabbit himself. Such was Woundwort's monument...and perhaps it would not have displeased him.<
I'm hoping that the epoxy dries clear and doesn't cloud up when I'm sanding it all. I think you're on the right track with tinting it black - when I google filework a lot of what I see looks like this. I'm not sure how mine's gonna come out, I'll find out tonight.

The rounded places are fairly easy, but boy the notched areas are easy to screw up; I butchered this one in a few places.

jackpot fucked around with this message at 21:13 on May 16, 2016

mattwhoo
Aug 26, 2009
The epoxy should polish up nicely assuming it does not have a bunch of bubbles. Might have to bust out some of the real fine sandpaper however.

NPR Journalizard
Feb 14, 2008

Really looking forward to seeing the end product with that. I reckon it will look pretty awesome.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!
Could you mask the hell out of the filework first? Or coat the work with a resist agent/barrier cream, like Vaseline or similar?

jackpot
Aug 31, 2004

First cousin to the Black Rabbit himself. Such was Woundwort's monument...and perhaps it would not have displeased him.<
I think it'll look ok - good enough for a first try at filework, anyway. In some places the epoxy filled in flush with the handle, in some places it didn't - if I did it again I'd make sure it overflows so that it's flush with the handle, because now I'm going to have hollow places. I wonder if I could mix the epoxy with sawdust to match the color, or would that screw up its effectiveness? Still got a long way to go, I'm going to take the thickness down to about half where it is now.





The wood is Bolivian Rosewood, Woodcraft was selling cracked 3/16" pieces of it for $5. Found out later that a) it's not a real rosewood (its real name is Pau Ferro, and it's just very similar to rosewood) and b) apparently it can be a real pain in the rear end to finish. Poly and oils are tough to use because they have a tendency to never dry. Might try just sanding the poo poo out of it and not finishing it at all, and a few people recommend wax. Ideas?

NPR Journalizard
Feb 14, 2008

Thought some people in here might want this as a reference

http://www.hybridburners.com/documents/verhoeven.pdf

mattwhoo
Aug 26, 2009

Frogmanv2 posted:

Thought some people in here might want this as a reference

http://www.hybridburners.com/documents/verhoeven.pdf

That should make for some nice light reading!

Well here is my latest creation (It has not been sharpened yet). It is a Nakiri, a Japanese veggie knife.The handle finish I got as smooth as a baby's rear end. It is birds eye maple and redwood burl. I have one more I'm working on as well. That one is almost done, just needs the handle.







Matt

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
I really like the way some japanese knives look, with the dark finish on the blade and the bevel being shiny metal. But what is that dark finish? I assume it's just been forged, quenched, tempered and left like that. So some kinda mill scale finish?

pointers
Sep 4, 2008

Frogmanv2 posted:

Thought some people in here might want this as a reference

http://www.hybridburners.com/documents/verhoeven.pdf
yes, definitely. thanks for this

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




His Divine Shadow posted:

I really like the way some japanese knives look, with the dark finish on the blade and the bevel being shiny metal. But what is that dark finish? I assume it's just been forged, quenched, tempered and left like that. So some kinda mill scale finish?

That's probably San Mai, a jacketing technique where the core is high-carbon steel and the body of the blade is stainless or iron. That way only the edge of the blade is hard brittle rust-able steel.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
I'm googling san mai but that's like the inverse of what I meant color wise.

Lhet
Apr 2, 2008

bloop


His Divine Shadow posted:

I really like the way some japanese knives look, with the dark finish on the blade and the bevel being shiny metal. But what is that dark finish? I assume it's just been forged, quenched, tempered and left like that. So some kinda mill scale finish?
You mean this right?


Pretty sure it's just iron welded to the sides of whatever hard steel is used for the edge. The unfinished iron ends up that color naturally more or less, then they seal it a little bit to prevent rust.

thespaceinvader
Mar 30, 2011

The slightest touch from a Gol-Shogeg will result in Instant Death!
I think traditionally it's something painted over the spine during the heat treat/temper so you get differential hardening and therefore differential appearance (they do it on Man At Arms occasionally) but in most knives these days I suspect it's just costmetic.

Ziggy Smalls
May 24, 2008

If pain's what you
want in a man,
Pain I can do

thespaceinvader posted:

I think traditionally it's something painted over the spine during the heat treat/temper so you get differential hardening and therefore differential appearance (they do it on Man At Arms occasionally) but in most knives these days I suspect it's just costmetic.
You're thinking of a Hamon which is caused by painting a ceramic slurry along the spine of the blade before tempering. It's a lot more subtle of an effect.


That black coloring is just regular Mill Scale formed during the forging process which was left unpolished.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

Im That One Guy posted:

That black coloring is just regular Mill Scale formed during the forging process which was left unpolished.

Thanks, this is what I figured, it reminded me so much of mill scale and what blacksmithing objects looks like.

thespaceinvader
Mar 30, 2011

The slightest touch from a Gol-Shogeg will result in Instant Death!

Im That One Guy posted:

You're thinking of a Hamon which is caused by painting a ceramic slurry along the spine of the blade before tempering. It's a lot more subtle of an effect.


That black coloring is just regular Mill Scale formed during the forging process which was left unpolished.

Yeah I am. Thought it was the same thing. My bad.

I wouldn't want mill scale on a kitchen knife, idk about anyone else.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Well I obviously would, given my line of questioning. Looks awesome.

Lhet
Apr 2, 2008

bloop


Was visiting my parents over the weekend and decided to start making a knife (handle). Don't really have any experience, but my dad has a ton of random knife stuff, so gave me a random diving knife blade he had lying around to build a handle for. There are a bunch of wood pieces around from a custom knifemaker he knew, not sure what it is, but it's really hard.

Gonna make a boring rectangular handle, so I made a cutout for the tang, then drilled holes for the pins, and epoxy'd everything together.



I think I'll need use a tiny bit more epoxy to fill some gaps in a few spots between the scales and the center. After that I'll just need get the base of the handle even, do some basic filing, then take it to the belt sander until it's all smooth and nice looking.

ReelBigLizard
Feb 27, 2003

Fallen Rib

Im That One Guy posted:

That black coloring is just regular Mill Scale formed during the forging process which was left unpolished.

To get an even finish like that you would probably need to do something more controlled, my guess is rust blueing or something similar prior to final grind and polish on the bevel.

mattwhoo
Aug 26, 2009
Here is my latest creation. My wife wanted another blue handle. This is some type of dyed maple.



The wierd reflection in the blade is a pendent light in my kitchen.



Matt

mattwhoo
Aug 26, 2009
Well now that it's not 900 loving degrees in my garage, I started on two new knives. Just got done cutting them out and put the rough bevel on them before switching out to a fresh belt.



Sorry Fixed the image.

mattwhoo fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Oct 2, 2016

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

That image seems to be broken mattwhoo

Anyway you guys are watching Forged in Fire, right?

Super Waffle
Sep 25, 2007

I'm a hermaphrodite and my parents (40K nerds) named me Slaanesh, THANKS MOM
Question for you guys, is your standard 2 part epoxy food safe? I'm finding conflicting information online. I got some wooden scales I want to glue to a kitchen knife blank, I want to make sure that theres nothing that will leach into any food.

TheDon01
Mar 8, 2009


Super Waffle posted:

Question for you guys, is your standard 2 part epoxy food safe? I'm finding conflicting information online. I got some wooden scales I want to glue to a kitchen knife blank, I want to make sure that theres nothing that will leach into any food.

Should be just fine once fully cured.

wormil
Sep 12, 2002

Hulk will smoke you!

Super Waffle posted:

Question for you guys, is your standard 2 part epoxy food safe? I'm finding conflicting information online. I got some wooden scales I want to glue to a kitchen knife blank, I want to make sure that theres nothing that will leach into any food.

For handles I'm sure it's fine. People sometimes use it to coat drinking cups, I wouldn't, but it's been done for years and no one has complained yet.

mattwhoo
Aug 26, 2009
My latest. It is a gift for our friends. We are having Thanksgiving at there house tomorrow. I hope they like it.


I really like the handle. This is the first time I used mosaic pins. I am going to attempt to make some for my next one.




Let me know what you think.

mewse
May 2, 2006

Looks good! What's the handle material?

mattwhoo
Aug 26, 2009

mewse posted:

Looks good! What's the handle material?

It's a stabilized and dyed maple burl.

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Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.
Fantastic pins! Tried doing mosaics precisely once and failed miserably, so I'm in awe of people who can do such magic.

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