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Hello Hobbyists and Crafters of all sorts! Our friends from Creative Convention are visiting with their Travelling Showcase of Wonders and they want to see all the cool and fantastic things you've been working on! Go show them off and admire the handiwork of other talented goons! https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3946255
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Dec 14, 2020 02:55
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Has anyone made a filet knife before? Seems like getting it thin enough to flex would be tough
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Dec 14, 2020 18:52
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Ok, here's my latest. Billet-twin of the previous one. 7.5" san mai gyuto     
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Dec 17, 2020 00:44
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Picked this lil' fella up today  I'll have to wire it up to a PID, but I'm hoping this will mean I can branch out into fancier materials - hopefully stainless.
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Dec 27, 2020 22:47
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Is there an option for a belt grinder at around £200 (UK)? I don’t have the budget, space, or time to dedicate to knives to justify a 2x72 fancy thing, but currently only have a combo 4” belt sander thing, so would like a bit of an upgrade. I appreciate such a machine will be limited, and that’s fine. I’ve made 3 knives in the past and it’s fun, but not something I’ll take super seriously.
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Dec 28, 2020 17:59
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you can get a 1x30 for very much cheaper than that
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Dec 28, 2020 19:17
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Ah, a new knifemaking technique. Can't wait to give this a shot! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ZchgU9KLOc&t=28s
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Dec 28, 2020 22:09
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I completed another knife recently, a 6" santoku. 80crv2 with dyed/stabilized amboyna burl scales and G10 liners with stainless pins.   
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Jan 3, 2021 09:24
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Kenshin posted:I completed another knife recently, a 6" santoku. 80crv2 with dyed/stabilized amboyna burl scales and G10 liners with stainless pins. That's nice, what are you using to etch your touch mark?
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Jan 3, 2021 23:41
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McSpergin posted:That's nice, what are you using to etch your touch mark? A Martronics Etch-o-Matic: https://www.martronics-corporation.com/ It works pretty well, but it's kinda low power. I've seen other smiths use home-built versions with significantly more power that etch deeper, faster.
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Jan 4, 2021 18:00
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Kenshin posted:A Martronics Etch-o-Matic: https://www.martronics-corporation.com/ That thing looks pretty involved... I was thinking of having someone make me a stencil and then just hooking some leads up to a random power supply and doing that salt water method. (where do I get the stencil made?)
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Jan 4, 2021 18:26
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Ghostnuke posted:That thing looks pretty involved... I was thinking of having someone make me a stencil and then just hooking some leads up to a random power supply and doing that salt water method. Martronics will also make the stencil for you, given a black & white image of the page size they will do.
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Jan 4, 2021 18:27
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trufflefoo posted:Is there an option for a belt grinder at around £200 (UK)? To follow up on Ghostnuke's comment, this just popped up in my recommendations: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDdBpMaG2TE Granted, it's sponsored by one of the Canadian equivalents of Harbor Freight, but the tool itself is a no-name generic 1x30. Conclusion: yes, you can make very decent knives on them. I just imagine you'll have to go slow and get some decent belts.
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Jan 6, 2021 03:51
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Kenshin posted:A Martronics Etch-o-Matic: https://www.martronics-corporation.com/ This website is absolutely amazing
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Jan 6, 2021 23:39
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Hello irritating knife makers, I got this in the excellent DIY secret santa And I'm excited to start making it!
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Jan 7, 2021 12:51
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NTRabbit posted:Hello irritating knife makers, I got this in the excellent DIY secret santa I'm keen to see how this turns out! I debated between a few of Bjorn's kits and liked this one. He's good to deal with too, and quick for postage etc.
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Jan 11, 2021 08:14
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I have an issue with a kukri that I'm trying to figure out how to fix. It's from Himalayan Imports, one of the daily specials that they post on their forum. The issue is with the handle of the knife. There's a steel plate on the butt of the handle that has worked loose and I'm trying to figure out the best, least potentially destructive way to tighten it up. With the plate loose the handle is beginning to chip, and I don't want it to chip any further. It looks like the knife has a through tang, which passes through the steel butt plate and another decorative element before it's peened over the decorative bit. My guess is that this is something that I fix by heating up the end of the tang and peening it a little bit more, but frankly I'm scared to do that because I don't want to get the tang too hot and hurt the handle, or damage the decorative bit on the butt cap. I'm also not sure that just peening the tang would provide quite enough pressure to hold down the very edge of the butt cap - it's pretty big. The only other thing I can think of would be to try to add some kind of epoxy but even though the butt cap moves around a little bit, there's not a whole lot of gap to try to fit some epoxy into. This is what it looks like - the first picture shows the butt cap in place, the second shows how much wiggle room there is. Only the butt cap moves - the diamond bit in the middle seems fixed to the tang and stays put. Any thoughts on how to tighten this up?  
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Feb 23, 2021 17:28
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I know there isn't much room, but yes, epoxy between the cap and the wood is the correct answer. If you're really set on peening it further you will need to set it up in a vice with copper or aluminum sheets on each side in contact with sides of the steel butt cap. Then use the smallest torch possible to heat the end of the tang up where you need to peen it down. The copper/aluminum is there to act as a heatsink and pull heat out of the steel away from the wood handle, but you'll probably still end up scorching the inside a little, which should be ok. Kenshin fucked around with this message at 18:02 on Feb 23, 2021 |
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Feb 23, 2021 17:54
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I would go with an epoxy too (maybe through a syringe?) but you might also want to ask in the metalwork thread.
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Feb 23, 2021 17:56
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Sounds like epoxy is the move, thanks guys. I really didn't want to have to try to peen the thing - I have a little bit of experience moving metal around, but it's sounding like my fears were well founded and that's way above my pay grade. I'll do a little more research and try to get some epoxy through a syringe into the void between the cap and the handle.
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Feb 23, 2021 19:10
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Seconding epoxy, preferably a two part like blade bond. I got my first set of knives heat treated, they were supposed to be done before Xmas so I could take some with me up to give to friends and family for Christmas presents but the guy doing the heat treatment just had no luck getting them done.  Top to bottom: EDC knife for a friend who did a bunch of work cleaning up some cutting boards for me Kiridashi Paring knife for my sister and paring knife for a friend who wanted one with a smaller handle, similar to a Laguiole knife
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Feb 23, 2021 22:11
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You don't have to torch the tang to peen it. It should have been heated to be annealed before it was peened to begin with. Lots of small taps is all it takes
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Feb 24, 2021 18:04
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I am toying around with Resin Pours to handle my knife. This is my first attempt, It is not perfect but is actually very nice to use. e: This is an 80crv2 blade, the blade shape and handle placement are a new try as well. I took it pretty thin so far as to give the first inch or so a good bit of flex.    https://i.imgur.com/SmfptmO.mp4 r00tn00b fucked around with this message at 08:12 on Apr 11, 2021 |
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Apr 11, 2021 08:09
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Ooooh, nice. Been wanting to do something similar for a filet knife.
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Apr 12, 2021 00:45
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I finally got around to finishing the first of four knives I'm working on! 12C27 blade, hardness tested at 63-64 HRC, bronze pins, red mallee burl handle with a 1mm black G10 spacer  Handle was done with two coats of Danish oil, a light scuff to take the surface coat off then some renwax to seal it all in. The shiny bit of the blade is at 8000 grit.
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Apr 14, 2021 08:07
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Also yes, the pin position at the back was not intentional lmao
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Apr 14, 2021 08:07
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Bought 10 pieces of 1/8" thick 1095 flat bar for $40. Gave a few pieces to my coworkers and I'm messing with the rest. I did the full flat grind with an angle grinder very carefully cause I don't have access to a big boy belt grinder. 
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Jul 1, 2021 11:53
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Hi Knife Thread. I finally have a proper garage and am settled in to tackle some projects. I do metalworking stuff professionally but it is zero creativity stuff (machine shop). So I've decided to make a few knives.  That's my metal casting bucket, worked well enough for HT.  In action with a 2nd knife.  Going to dig into finishing up the steel work this weekend.
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Jul 1, 2021 15:36
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Does anyone have a preferred abrasive? I've been really liking the Klingspor reaper series as well as Norton blaze. Been getting really good life from the blaze belts I've been using on N690
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Aug 25, 2021 07:18
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I use Norton Blaze Orange for steel, Blaze Blue for wood and soft metals.
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Aug 25, 2021 07:31
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 Little scrap knife I made for use in the garden. Great for cleanly cutting off leaves on greens etc and my partner loves it. 12C27 with silky oak handle and canvas micarta pins. The grinder slip marks come free
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Aug 25, 2021 08:05
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That's an elegant shape and the handle is giving me Laguiole vibes.
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Aug 25, 2021 14:00
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McSpergin posted:Does anyone have a preferred abrasive? I've been really liking the Klingspor reaper series as well as Norton blaze. Been getting really good life from the blaze belts I've been using on N690 I've found 3M Cubitron II to last much longer than Norton Blaze, at least for the 50 grit belts I use for heavy grinding.
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Aug 25, 2021 15:21
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mjan posted:I've found 3M Cubitron II to last much longer than Norton Blaze, at least for the 50 grit belts I use for heavy grinding. We use the Cubitron II's in a ridiculous quantity (automated industrial belt grinder) and they've outperformed every single other coated abrasive we've found. Our materials are steels, 50-60 Hrc, removing about .020" in half a second. When abrasives salespeople come in and try to get us to switch we just tell them we're using Cubitron II and they just shrug and say they can't touch it.
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Aug 25, 2021 15:32
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mjan posted:I've found 3M Cubitron II to last much longer than Norton Blaze, at least for the 50 grit belts I use for heavy grinding. I work in a heavy steel fab welding shop and we love the Cubitron II sanding discs. They are so aggressive compared to other brands at the same grit. We grind on some machined surfaces after repairing weld defects and the Cubitron 120 grit discs are almost too aggressive. Only people with really steady hands are allowed to do it.
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Aug 26, 2021 11:55
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Trabant posted:That's an elegant shape and the handle is giving me Laguiole vibes. I traced a Laguiole as the handle, good spot Re: belt chat, that is quite interesting. I've been getting good life from my blaze belts and the reaper belts are reasonable. I've been using 24's for profiling which scare me to death lol. My local knife supply store is doing a bulk buy on Klingspor at the moment, 50% off packs of 12 belts.
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Aug 27, 2021 12:47
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Knife adjacent: Last lot of laser cutting I got done, I did a few of these earring scaled ones to see how they look. Next time I'll probably do a 1/16" hole rather than 1/8 but otherwise with a bit of polymer clay on the handles they came up alright. They're on a hook style hanger with an 8mm ring through them (no pics as finished because I am rushing around madly at 10pm packing for flights interstate at 10am 
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Dec 18, 2021 12:12
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Sorry to Kramer into your thread but I figured you’d be the right people to ask. What’s the easiest way to reattach the (scales?) to some knives that will endure dishwashing? I bought a henchel knife set around 1995 and they’re coming apart. I’d rather not replace them since it’s just the handles the steel is still just as good so it’s a wate to replace them. I’ve tried boat epoxy and polyurethane (gorilla) glue and both only last a few months of daily washing. The original rivets have failed. The hole through the tangs are just under 4mm. The corresponding holes in the handles have a 7mm shoulder. I’ll take any advice. Thanks.
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Jul 31, 2022 17:28
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Don't put your knives through the dishwasher. You can't fix that without putting new pins in and using some sort of epoxy, but even if you do, the dishwashing will continue to destroy the handle scales. I'm betting that knife isn't very sharp, either.
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Jul 31, 2022 17:37
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If you dont have the time or tools to drill out the rivets and replace them, you can significantly rough up the mating surfaces to increase their surface area which will help make the epoxy bond stronger. Best long term solution would be to drill out the pins and epoxy those into the handle material at the same time you attach the handles back onto the knife. Edit: You may be able to replace the pins with chicago screws but honestly id say just buy a new knife if you dont have much experience. Ziggy Smalls fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Jul 31, 2022 |
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Jul 31, 2022 17:40
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