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So, since my last thread god burried, I figured I'd make a fresh thread since the goals have changes a little bit: In case you don't remember, I picked up a 1987 Coupe GT: That I had intended to basically convert to a Coupe Quattro, I purchased a 10 valve Turbo motor to make that happen out of an Audi 200 Quattro: Complete with rear end and transmission/front end. Then, I picked up this bastard: A 1986 Audi 4000 Quattro, and since everything is kind of already put together, it made more sense to go with this car and keep the Coupe GT as a...well..Coupe GT. However, as I had already removed the engine and transmission from the Audi Coupe GT, I figure the 10 valve turbo motor can stay in the Coupe GT and the 2.3l 10:1 special motor can go into the 4000, later I'll get 20v pistons and head and turn it into a 20v Turbo motor (just need pistons, conn rods, and head) In the meantime, I pulled the 2.2l motor which was starting to sound bad and swapped in the 2.3l motor: That worked great for a while, the 2.3l is MUCH more peppy than the 2.2l stock motor, however, recently its decided to act up, so I'm pulling apart the motor to trace down a metallic sound that happens at mid-RPMs. After changing the clutch hoping that was the source of the problem, I'm down to tearing the motor down to trace the issue. Saddly, its sucking away my roll-cage funds for its future amateur rally career... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmCUBihS3_o ...and here we are today: I also have a VW TDI that decided to eat a valve after an engine upgrade. Welcome to 'Knee Deep in the Volkswagen Automotive Group' CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Oct 13, 2013 |
# ¿ Oct 13, 2013 04:37 |
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# ¿ May 12, 2024 05:27 |
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Hooray! I'm glad some permutation of this thread is back again. Someone was selling an 80s VW Syncro Van locally, I was kicking myself for not having bought it.
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# ¿ Oct 13, 2013 15:37 |
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KKKLIP ART posted:Was it you that moved down my way (Atlanta-ish area) or am I thinking of another VW-goon? It is I.
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# ¿ Oct 14, 2013 16:09 |
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Muffinpox posted:Look over the exhaust manifold really thoroughly, the I5 ones were prone to cracking. No cracks, lots of busted exhaust studs though.
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# ¿ Oct 14, 2013 18:36 |
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Muffinpox posted:Then one of the hydro lifters is probably going bad. They cause that weird idle when they do. Replaced them all, it did fix the idle, didn't fix the noise. I'm down to pulling the valve springs and the oil pan if I don't find anything.
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# ¿ Oct 14, 2013 19:05 |
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Muffinpox posted:Well, then that is the sound of it begging for death just buy an AAN. Not an option. Government shutdown means no income. And I'm not going to waste an engine.
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# ¿ Oct 14, 2013 21:47 |
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Government shutdown didn't stop my imported TDI head from making it all the way from the Netherlands Just need the #1 and #2 Pistons and Conn rods and my TDI will live again after committing gruesome suicide.
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# ¿ Oct 15, 2013 04:41 |
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BlackMK4 posted:Is that ALH head different or was it cheaper than getting it in the US? Its the same head but it was $300 for it versus $400-600 other people wanted. It is a real VW head though.
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# ¿ Oct 15, 2013 13:05 |
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BlackMK4 posted:Gotcha. My car had a timing 'event' before I bought it and was told it has a new head. I'm budgeting to replace the head eventually since I'm sure it's not completely kosher. $300 is about $500 lower than I'd heard of, not bad. http://dutchautoparts.com/ Took about a week to get from the Netherlands to here, the head looks genuine and has all the VW stamps, pretty clean too. Came with cam, valve, lifters, everything except the timing gear and manifolds. One of the things you can look at on your head to tell if its genuine: Look for the ribbing on the front of the head inbetween #2 and #3 cylinders, if its lacking the ribbing, you might have a Chinese knockoff. CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 14:18 on Oct 15, 2013 |
# ¿ Oct 15, 2013 14:15 |
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Before After Cleaned up the piston deck on the Audi, this weekend I'm pulling the oil pan before I dig back into pulling the transmission. I also have to pull the oil pan on the TDI to get some markings off the #1 and #2 connecting rods so I can order new pistons and rods. They are a matched set, so you have to replace both. #1 and #2 are matched in weight and length, and #3 and #4 are matched as well, in reciprocating pairs to balance their unsprung weight CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Oct 18, 2013 |
# ¿ Oct 18, 2013 21:59 |
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Mystery noise from the Audi solved: This was trapped in between the flywheel and the bottom half of the. You can tell its been bouncing around a lot, its well shaved down. On the plus side, this is motivating me to get the old exhaust studs drilled out. As for the TDI, I'm stuck I have to buy a 5mm allen head ball socket to get the bolts out of the oil pan from behind the flywheel.
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# ¿ Oct 20, 2013 22:55 |
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Mooseykins posted:Hooooooooooooooooly poo poo. You can buy a whole goddamn engine for $300 here! 1.8T you might find for $300 here....the TDI motors, even busted ones, sell from $900-$2000. For a TDI head? A new one runs $600-800 in the US. TDI motors come at a premium in the United States.
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# ¿ Oct 21, 2013 02:13 |
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mafoose posted:How tight are they torqued? I don't think they are too tightly torqued. I was going to pick up a socketed one from Sears.
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# ¿ Oct 21, 2013 04:32 |
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TDI News: So, I've got the oil pan pulled, got the numbers off the bottom of the pistons, just gotta disassemble the rest, get the #1 and #2 pistons and rods replaced, balance the set, and off we go.
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# ¿ Oct 24, 2013 03:00 |
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Mooseykins posted:I need to start exporting diesel engines. Yes. Yes you do.
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# ¿ Oct 24, 2013 04:09 |
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Ferremit posted:Would the big booger of RTV hanging off the oil pickup have anything to do with those bearings being that worn? No, there was a little rtv in the corner of the pickup, but the vast majority of the pickup was clean and clear
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# ¿ Oct 24, 2013 13:31 |
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All parts ordered for both the TDI and the Audi.
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# ¿ Nov 5, 2013 18:00 |
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Head for the Audi is back from the machine shop
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# ¿ Nov 8, 2013 00:03 |
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Welp, almost got everything. Just need the piston rings and we can slap the Jetta back together. For future reference, order connecting rod bearings in sets, not pairs. Woops.
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# ¿ Nov 8, 2013 21:49 |
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# ¿ Nov 8, 2013 23:14 |
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Welp, new pistons with new rings going in! Seated and torqued, headgasket in place New head, all built up and waiting on some gasketing to dry Head seated and torqued down, everything set to TDC and timing to slip the timing belt on And there she is, just gotta finish hooking up hoses, slip in the injectors, re-installed the remaining parts and we'll see how she sounds in the morning.
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# ¿ Nov 10, 2013 02:07 |
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sharkytm posted:Good luck. We need more diesels running around. You'll have video in the morning, success or fail.
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# ¿ Nov 10, 2013 03:30 |
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aventari posted:What kind of dressing/sealant did you use on the head gasket that had to dry? Wasn't the headgasket, was the coolant flange on the block.
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# ¿ Nov 10, 2013 15:26 |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NqNzuNh4qfw&feature=youtube_gdata_player
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# ¿ Nov 10, 2013 20:13 |
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sharkytm posted:Video is private? Try now.
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# ¿ Nov 10, 2013 21:03 |
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sharkytm posted:Congrats! It runs. Waiting on the Audi headgasket to arrive, and we'll have her running sometime this week, video of that as well!
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# ¿ Nov 11, 2013 02:16 |
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And we're in business with the Audi!
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# ¿ Nov 12, 2013 22:49 |
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A quick boost with the Audi firing back into life: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Pd1TZJs06k
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# ¿ Dec 23, 2013 05:36 |
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Audi is fired up and out of the garage, gotta play with the timing a bit, but she is moving under her own power and the clutch is working!.
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# ¿ Jan 3, 2014 03:51 |
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SuperDucky posted:Glad to see this thread back, Commie. I suppose being from CO you're enjoying this heat wave we're having in ATL right now? Oh hell yes, it feels great to have cold weather. Saddly, no snow. I had to disassemble the drivers side Macpherson strut last night, as it was popping, found out the cap hadn't seated on the spring properly.
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# ¿ Jan 4, 2014 16:33 |
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Fixed the popping strut, made some home made collars to keep the strut retainer from butting the strut tower when its at full extension. Previous Owner had removed the collars and threw away a bunch of the suspension parts. I found a stray ground that was loose, coming off the intake that was freaking out the idle and fuel regulator. Now it sounds nice and smooth. Might have a faulty thermostat, the engine warms but doesn't go over barely above low temp. Also, looks like the center diff lock vacuum nipple has fractured, as I can lock the diff but it won't unlock it, and the vacuum line is loose and there is no nipple to be found. Stage II Planning I've made some contacts for the turbo manifold, downpipe, and turbo. I currently do not have access to my 10 valve turbo motor in Wyoming, so I have to buy another to install into the current motor. I'm pricing the roll cage parts out now, and have a TIG certified friend who will be helping me install, hopefully in spring. CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 23:45 on Jan 5, 2014 |
# ¿ Jan 5, 2014 23:28 |
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Update: 20v Turbo motor acquired. Pictures to follow On the downside: CIS fuel distributor poo poo the bed when I drove down for guard weekend, ended up having to trailer the car home.
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# ¿ Mar 12, 2014 04:59 |
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I might have gotten a 3B for cheap without even realizing it was a 3B.
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# ¿ Mar 12, 2014 14:27 |
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Timmy Cruise posted:20 valves versus 10. And since it was already turbocharged, it has piston oil squirters and basically everything I'll need You can easily boost the motor to 300HP stock. CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 16:18 on Mar 12, 2014 |
# ¿ Mar 12, 2014 16:13 |
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BrokenKnucklez posted:How much pressure can you put on a stock block before you start blowing poo poo apart? Its a KKK K24, I'm told 17 PSI is the max 'efficient' boost of it. Around 300HP is the max it can probably push with the stock turbo, and 450 HP is the max HP the engine can handle before you risk bending a connecting rod or breaking a headbolt. I plan to put in ARP headstuds down the road.
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# ¿ Mar 12, 2014 16:44 |
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BrokenKnucklez posted:300 hp in a fairly light car, that thing is going to fly. Stock HP was 220(?) for the 3B in a way heavier 200. So quick calculations: 1986 Audi 4000 Quattro Curb weight: 2842 lbs @ 115 HP (81 HP per US Ton) 1989 Audi 200 Quattro Curb weight: 3351 lbs @ 217 HP (131 HP per US Ton) 1986 Audi 4000 Quattro w/ 3B 20v: 2842 lbs @ 217 HP (153 HP per US Ton) So yeah, there is going to be a significant performance improvement right off the bat. CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 17:00 on Mar 12, 2014 |
# ¿ Mar 12, 2014 16:55 |
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Yeah.... 300 HP is going to really be a kick in the rear end. Yeah, and really 300HP is a high target, I don't even need that much. 250HP would be easily achievable and would already make the car a rocket.
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# ¿ Mar 12, 2014 20:45 |
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Pulled the Megasquirt 1 ECU out of the basement today along with the wiring harness. Time to get it ready for Saturday! Thank goodness I labelled everything...
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# ¿ Mar 27, 2014 04:38 |
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Its heeeeerrrreeee.....
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# ¿ Mar 29, 2014 03:01 |
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# ¿ May 12, 2024 05:27 |
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Teardown time! First things first: This engine has NOT been run in a LONG time, you can tell, the camshafts look brand new and have only the lightest coating of oil, the engine has great compression, and the wiring on the knock sensors is all dry rotted out. Otherwise, so far so good, I'm considering pulling the head just to make sure everything is all good. Weirdest part: The head is a 20v, but the engine code identifies it as an MC, which was a 10v turbo block, not a 20v. Makes me a little bit curious if it has the 20v pistons or if someone just tried to mix and match a 10v block with a 20v head. However, the features of the block match up with a 20v 3B from 1991. CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 01:54 on Mar 30, 2014 |
# ¿ Mar 30, 2014 01:35 |