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How tight are they torqued? I wouldn't trust the HF ones, as the ball always snaps off. At work I use these: http://www.bondhus.com/products/l-wrenches/body32.htm We put a cheater bar on the small end sometimes and put a lot of torque on the ball end and have yet to see one fail.
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Oct 21, 2013 02:40
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You could run low compression and boost it +30 psi  Could you just have the head or block skimmed and run a thinner head gasket?
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Apr 3, 2014 16:31
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Do you really want piston oil squirters? If so, could you tap the block and install them? We do this quite a bit in the Volvo world.
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May 21, 2014 05:17
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Is that the stock turbo setup? Looks sweet and you're getting close!
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Jun 13, 2014 01:07
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So stock is externally gated? That's awesome! My BMW is the same way. Germans sure like to over engineer things. Looks like yours would be easy to mod for more boost.
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Jun 13, 2014 05:21
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Be careful with those old KKK turbos. Porsche forums and the BMW turbo guys keep talking about how easy it is to damage one by over revving it. This is what I have to deal with: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/300947474416 I need to either adapt the tial guts I have, or adapt the tiny tial MVS as that is the only thing that will fit between the manifold and strut tower. You've got it easy Are you running megasquirt on this?
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Jun 14, 2014 00:10
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You're a terrible person. I'm going to go see a manual 91 Audi 200 turbo in a few hours. I hope you're happy!
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Jan 23, 2015 19:01
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CommieGIR posted:The only thing that matters: 10v or 20v? I'm guessing 10v CIS right off. 20v! Overheats but doesn't smoke supposedly. Definitely needs the expansion tank.
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Jan 23, 2015 19:15
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gently caress Craigslist. "Bro I'm at school until 3, let's meet at 3:30." Go to bank, pull out cash. Get a call at 3:30, "bro I just sold it." 
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Jan 23, 2015 23:32
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Trouserchilli owned a V8 Quattro, it might be worth talking to him about the car pros cons etc. I think he sold it after it's first autocross, as it started running on 4 cylinders. Also UFO brakes. No thanks!
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Apr 7, 2015 04:40
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CommieGIR posted:Just purchased a 60-2 trigger wheel for the crank. CommieGIR posted:No, the ignition will remain largely intact and a separate system. Megasquirt will just drive the EFI The 5 window you installed on the dizzy will drive an ms for fuel and spark without the crank trigger (batch fuel, single coil + distributor spark). You can also run just the 60-2 as a v10 in wasted spark mode and get rid of the dizzy altogether. If you use the 60-2 wheel on the crank, you can make the dizzy trigger into a one window for cam sync and have sequential spark and even do coil on plug. Add 3 injector drivers and go full sequential. You leave so much on the table when you don't do spark control.
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Jun 17, 2015 18:00
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You don't, you tell ms that it's a v10 running on wasted spark. It's an old trick that I heard works. E: see this http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=42292 mafoose fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Jun 17, 2015 |
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Jun 17, 2015 18:55
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CommieGIR posted:Wait, WHAT?! Once you get it to start, you adjust the trigger angle until both the MS timing and actual timing match up. I usually leave the dizzy in the middle of it's adjustment, start with a trigger angle of 60, then add or subtract in 10* increments until the car starts (MS spark output locked at 10*). Once it starts, I get out the timing gun, match the timing marks with what MS says by changing the trigger angle, then don't forget to tell MS to unlock the timing and use the table. What kind of wiring diagram are you looking for? CommieGIR posted:Holy crap! This simplifies a lot! mafoose fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Jun 17, 2015 |
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Jun 17, 2015 19:55
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Are you making your own harness from scratch or starting with one that has the db37 pre terminated? The injector drivers can handle up to 8 high-z injectors each. Since it's going to be batch fired anyways, you can just put all 5 on one, and save the other for staged injection in the future. Or split them up, either way you'll be injecting in "simultaneous" mode not "alternating." mafoose fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Jun 18, 2015 |
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Jun 18, 2015 02:35
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??? One side of the injector goes to switched +12v, the other goes through a resistor if low-z, otherwise directly to the ms box. They're grounded through the ms to fire. 1 resistor per injector (if needed). What gauge did you use for the harness? Specifically for the injector banks? Technically the resistor is in series with the injector, but the resitor/injector pairs are parallel to each other.
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Jun 18, 2015 05:33
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Depending on how long I'm at work tonight and how much I can sleep, I might have a simplified wiring diagram for you tomorrow. Lucky for you I just made one for a Volvo guy, so most of the hard work is done. What are you doing for power distribution? I usually mount a second fuse block for everything efi related (ms box, injectors, ignition, wideband, etc. I power the fuse box using 14ga wire fused at the battery that is switched on by a 50amp relay.
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Jun 19, 2015 05:43
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8ender posted:If you fix this the automatic is going to grenade itself next While doing 65 on the freeway...
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Jul 21, 2015 10:20
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Unless your compressor has its own oil supply, you're going to have to change it. R12 systems use mineral oil, which is not soluble in r152a, meaning it's likely accumulating someplace until your compressor goes dry.
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Aug 3, 2015 08:04
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CommieGIR posted:Mafoose, I ended up charging the system with a can of Ester oil, checked compatibility and that seems to be the best match for R152A. Seems to be making it a little happier. Esther oil works good on retrofits, that's what I'm running in mine.
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Aug 6, 2015 07:46
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