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Cicero posted:Too late. Thank you Cicero!! This is Knyteguy's wife, and thanks to you I finally have my own account.  I look forward to being able to post here now. So here's an update on my job outlook: As Knyteguy said, I have an interview set up this week doing customer service relations and the interviewer is an old acquaintance. Another company contacted my via LinkedIn for an HR manager position, which is very exciting to me. All in all I've been more actively seeking employment in a field that I already have qualifications, and I am starting to get results. Nice to meet you all!!
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Jan 9, 2014 04:56
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Woohoo! I'm glad to hear what you're up to in the employment direction. Real estate, dentistry, that's kind of pie in the sky type of stuff. I sure understand where that comes from (when I got frustrated with grad school I was going to switch to motorcycle repair, haha) but I'm guessing you'll have more immediate and useful success doing what you're doing now. Good luck.
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Jan 9, 2014 05:12
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Welp it's been a bit since an update, but I thought it was worthy to note that the judge reduced my speeding ticket by $330.00 thanks to that email I wrote him. That's pretty awesome . Also we switched our YNAB "emergency fund" to the "buffer" category, so the rest of this months income (which is a lot since my wife gets paid 3 times this month) will used for next month. I think we've successfully beat the paycheck-to-paycheck cycle. If an emergency happens to happen we'll just reallocate the funds back to an emergency fund. We'll still be able to pump the hell out of it; it'll just take some finagling to use it if we need to. Other than that we're doing pretty good I think. Our apartment complex is having a drawing for everyone who pays rent on the first for $100. Because we've been doing so well we'll actually be able to pay rent by then and considering there's less than 100 units in our complex and most people don't pay on the first (hence the drawing) I'd say our odds are OK. Also Cicero helped me a ton with my interview and programming skills with a mock phone screen... so if I happen to get an interview at some company that is willing to pay me more, I'll be able to take advantage of that opportunity better. Major props to him!
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Jan 18, 2014 01:57
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Knyteguy posted:Other than that we're doing pretty good I think. Our apartment complex is having a drawing for everyone who pays rent on the first for $100. Because we've been doing so well we'll actually be able to pay rent by then and considering there's less than 100 units in our complex and most people don't pay on the first (hence the drawing) I'd say our odds are OK. What the gently caress? Your landlord has to bribe tenants into paying rent on time?
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Jan 19, 2014 22:16
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bam thwok posted:What the gently caress? Your landlord has to bribe tenants into paying rent on time? Apparently? I don't know for sure that's why they're doing it. On-time in our lease means no later than before they open on the 6th though so a lot of people (including us before this month) probably take advantage of that. I'm not really worried about the cash flow of a mega real estate company with millions of dollars of property throughout the US though, so who cares anyway?
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Jan 19, 2014 22:32
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bam thwok posted:What the gently caress? Your landlord has to bribe tenants into paying rent on time? I had a job like that. A job that I got through a workforce/temp agency. Every week when I picked up my paycheck I got to spin the "prize wheel" and get candy or a $5 gift card or something dumb like that. Apparently if you were a good little worker and actually made it to work every time you were scheduled that week you got rewarded by getting to spin the prize wheel. I was told it's pretty common for people to just skip out on work for no reason so they were trying to keep people from doing that by giving them candy for doing the bare minimum (just showing up to work).
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Jan 19, 2014 22:53
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Holy poo poo this just furthers my resolve that we need to sell the drat car: We're looking at some really high income months with Janus getting paid three times this month, and then taxes next month. I think we'll be able to start the car sale process around mid-late February if we don't finish our Emergency fund first, or mid-late March if we do.
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Jan 27, 2014 21:22
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Knyteguy posted:Holy poo poo this just furthers my resolve that we need to sell the drat car: That's 2/3 of the interest I pay on my mortgage with a balance that is $90k less. Ouch
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Jan 27, 2014 21:41
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dreesemonkey posted:That's 2/3 of the interest I pay on my mortgage with a balance that is $90k less. Ouch That hurts my eyes. OP, are you at all credit worthy where you could run down to the credit union and get a couple thousand signature loan? Is a cash advance even an option? Based on those principal payments, you are losing value faster than you are paying it down, you are more upside down every day. It would be better to owe $2000 at 29% than to owe $14,000 at 18%. Do I remember you saying that you could be a one car family for awhile?
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Jan 27, 2014 23:06
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Zeta Taskforce posted:That hurts my eyes. OP, are you at all credit worthy where you could run down to the credit union and get a couple thousand signature loan? Is a cash advance even an option? Based on those principal payments, you are losing value faster than you are paying it down, you are more upside down every day. It would be better to owe $2000 at 29% than to owe $14,000 at 18%. Yep one car is the plan for now. I'm not looking forward to it and neither is Janus but what can ya do? I doubt we're credit worthy enough to get any kind of loan right now, but I did apply for a small balance credit card from our credit union so if approved we'll take some cash out of the emergency fund for selling the car and use the card for an actual emergency if we have to. Really though our expected income will be around (extremely conservative estimate) $6,000 in February. With my wife's last paycheck we'll be around +$2.1k in savings this month. Our SMART savings goal for next month is $2,700 minimum so with that we'll have around $6,000 in savings. After that we'll either sell the car as quickly as we can or just keep building the emergency fund. It really sucks that the car is such an awful situation but hopefully this sting will remind us not to do anything so stupid again.
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Jan 28, 2014 02:05
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Knyteguy posted:Yep one car is the plan for now. I'm not looking forward to it and neither is Janus but what can ya do? I doubt we're credit worthy enough to get any kind of loan right now, but I did apply for a small balance credit card from our credit union so if approved we'll take some cash out of the emergency fund for selling the car and use the card for an actual emergency if we have to. One month is a good plan and a the best way to invest this extra income you will get in February. If you have questions on the actual logistics of what the prospective buyer needs to do and what you need to do as the seller with regard to the payoff, getting the title, etc, let me know
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Jan 28, 2014 19:48
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Zeta Taskforce posted:One month is a good plan and a the best way to invest this extra income you will get in February. If you have questions on the actual logistics of what the prospective buyer needs to do and what you need to do as the seller with regard to the payoff, getting the title, etc, let me know Thanks. There's definitely some information that I have no idea about (like how the buyer will pay and what their expected timeline is to actually plan the purchase and pay me to driving the car away with the title in hand). Mind if I PM you when we start the process? I can also post here of course. Also Goons we need a new knife set for the kitchen. I was cutting carrots the other night and they were shooting out left and right because I had to apply so much pressure. I just honed it the night before. This was good for our vegetable stock jar but bad for our bean and vegetable medley. After some research I've been looking at these two: J.A. HENCKELS INTERNATIONAL Statement 12-Piece Block Knife Set - $100 Ginsu Chikara Stainless Steel Knife Set with Bamboo Block - $105 According to Consumer Reports the Ginsu Chikara are a "best buy", but they don't have a review of the Henckels which seems to be an amazing deal if that's a temporary sale price (only 12 reviews tells me it's fairly new). This will come out of our household goods budget in February and we'll still be able to make our goals so I'd say it's sufficiently planned for, but who knows Goons might still get mad  . Before I hit up GWS I wanted to see if anyone has an opinion on this both financially and perhaps regarding the products themselves.Edit: nevermind the Henckels seem to be that price everywhere (BB&B, Macys, etc) Knyteguy fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Jan 30, 2014 |
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Jan 30, 2014 01:12
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Get this: http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Tri-Angle-Sharpmaker-Sharpener-204MF/dp/B000Q9C4AE and save $40. A cheap rear end knife can be sharp as hell if you actually sharpen it and not "hone" it or whatever.
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Jan 30, 2014 02:51
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Knyteguy posted:Thanks. There's definitely some information that I have no idea about (like how the buyer will pay and what their expected timeline is to actually plan the purchase and pay me to driving the car away with the title in hand). Mind if I PM you when we start the process? I can also post here of course. As someone who used to sell over priced knives for their job - stay the hell away from henkels. They don't even offer the good replacement policies that the other major brands do.
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Jan 30, 2014 03:43
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MrKatharsis posted:Get this: http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Tri-Angle-Sharpmaker-Sharpener-204MF/dp/B000Q9C4AE and save $40. This works just as well for half the price but yeah, I love those things. And they make GREAT gifts for people that you have no idea what to get. http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-4-rod-...ywords=croc+box Just buy one decent knife for $20-30. You don't need 15 knives.
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Jan 30, 2014 06:09
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You (probably) don't need new knives, you just need to sharpen the ones you've got. Even with the best knives, honing will only do so much and you'll eventually need to grind a new edge with a whetstone. Google for a knife sharpening service in your area, or even a mail-in service. It'll be a lot cheaper than a whole new knife set (not that anybody needs a complete knife "set" either, but that's a whole other rant).
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Jan 30, 2014 07:29
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These are very good for $40. Just look at those 1500 reviews! The $7 paring knives from the same company aren't bad either. Knife sets are really the mark of a cook that doesn't know better, or someone who went overboard on their wedding registry. You just need a few: a good chef's knife, a paring knife, and something serrated for bread. Add something for meat and fish if you cook it a bunch. If you need steak knives for the table, maybe those sets are a better buy, but otherwise I'd avoid 'em.
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Jan 30, 2014 08:06
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KS posted:These are very good for $40. Just look at those 1500 reviews! The $7 paring knives from the same company aren't bad either. I would like to agree with all this. I think there may have been a thread somewhere in GWS that had kitchen stuff recommendations. Those victorinox knives were recommended by a chef's magazine or something for their price and quality. I haven't gotten around to it yet, but I'd like to replace our lovely knife block set with a chef's knife or two, bread knife, and a couple of pairing knives. Throw them up on one of those magnetic racks and I just saved some counter space, too. I guess this is a little more personal preference, but I'm really trying to buy things that are quality and at the same time not buying more than I need. "Stuff" can be overwhelming, especially in the kitchen.
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Jan 30, 2014 14:41
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Knyteguy posted:Thanks. There's definitely some information that I have no idea about (like how the buyer will pay and what their expected timeline is to actually plan the purchase and pay me to driving the car away with the title in hand). Mind if I PM you when we start the process? I can also post here of course. Where is your loan at? The process is going to be easier if there is a physical location where you can make payment. The process will look something like this. You will advertise your car on craigslist and find a prospective buyer. When you do you will contact your bank and ask for a payoff figure. The buyer will make a check for certified funds made payable to your bank, referencing your account number and loan number. You will then make a second check made payable to them for the remainder. You will need to keep in mind the daily per diem and it’s better to pay a bit extra to make sure the loan is entirely satisfied. Your bank will then send you the title free and clear, which you will sign over to the buyer, who will register the car. Once it is properly registered you then give them the keys and they drive away. It saves time if you can go into the bank together with your prospective checks, but if you can’t do that, ask for the overnight address and verify how the checks need to be made out and the method of payments that will allow them to release the title to you as quickly as possible. You will need to be upfront the buyer that you have a loan on it, you don’t have the title in hand, and the transaction won’t happen instantly. Some buyers will walk, but the ones who are intellectually honest realize that they are getting a better deal than if they went to the dealer, you are getting a better deal too, but the dealer does a lot of stuff behind the scenes to make the process easier. The cost of a private party sale is you need to invest the time to navigate through the title and registration process yourself. Let me know if any part of this doesn’t make sense to you.
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Jan 30, 2014 16:49
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Thanks all for the knife advice. We'll probably pick up the Victorinox and then a sharpener later and go from there.  Zeta Taskforce posted:Where is your loan at? The process is going to be easier if there is a physical location where you can make payment. Hm well that makes sense, thanks. Unfortunately the loan is with Chase so there's no physical branch in my area (I just checked). I'm not sure how in-demand this car is but hopefully it won't sit on Craigslist for months (I'll make repost once a week or so to ensure it's still visible). Just to clarify I wouldn't give them the keys until they register it? What if they end up towing it home or something? It's going to be such a relief to get rid of this car and more aptly the debt and payments that come with it. I don't think I've ever appreciated just how much $14,000 really is, and that's without the horrible interest.
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Jan 30, 2014 17:18
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Knyteguy posted:Thanks all for the knife advice. We'll probably pick up the Victorinox and then a sharpener later and go from there. They can't legally drive it until it's registered in their name. As far as the price goes, you don't need to be desperate trying to dump it ASAP, but you do want to price it competively. If it sits there for months, then you are pricing it too high, but it's up to you how long you want to wait. A few years back Cornholio sold his mini and priced it on the high side and had hardly any bites, but then after several months someone bit and paid exactly what he was looking for, so I'm not sure if there is a lesson to draw from that or not.
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Jan 30, 2014 17:39
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Zeta Taskforce posted:They can't legally drive it until it's registered in their name. As far as the price goes, you don't need to be desperate trying to dump it ASAP, but you do want to price it competively. If it sits there for months, then you are pricing it too high, but it's up to you how long you want to wait. A few years back Cornholio sold his mini and priced it on the high side and had hardly any bites, but then after several months someone bit and paid exactly what he was looking for, so I'm not sure if there is a lesson to draw from that or not. Alright I'll keep that in mind. I'm worried that if it's priced too high the interest will negate any savings made. The blue book on the car in excellent condition is $11,500 and like $11,300 for good I think. Maybe if I price it at $11,500 OBO and take the offer at >= $11,000? Also we filed our taxes and the return was like $400.00. Ouch. Luckily that savings goal was conservative enough to still be attainable, and we'll still be on track to sell the car. It'll be the end of February instead of the middle before we can get things rolling now though.
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Jan 30, 2014 18:21
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$400 is good, if you had a $4000 return you could have so much more debt paid off and paid less interest during the year. You want your money, no reason to let the government hold on to it interest free. My goal at the end of the year is sub $100 return/owe in taxes.
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Jan 30, 2014 19:28
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spwrozek posted:$400 is good, if you had a $4000 return you could have so much more debt paid off and paid less interest during the year. You want your money, no reason to let the government hold on to it interest free. My goal at the end of the year is sub $100 return/owe in taxes. Yeah, you're right and all, but when the best money market doesn't pay more than 1%, the government paying 0% and it being truly forced savings that you can not touch under any circumstances, there is a case to be made for having a bit more than required taken out too. Knyteguy posted:Alright I'll keep that in mind. I'm worried that if it's priced too high the interest will negate any savings made. The blue book on the car in excellent condition is $11,500 and like $11,300 for good I think. Maybe if I price it at $11,500 OBO and take the offer at >= $11,000? Your interest is about $7.00 a day. Your car is also depreciating in the $150/range, which is a very real cost but one that you don't feel as much. But you have been keeping up with it, you can be a motivated seller, but you are not a desperate seller. You are still a few weeks away from listing it. Take this time to look at what dealers are selling your car for or what other people on craigslist and autotrader are selling it for. Maybe drive out to some of them and see what condition they are in. Once you list it, you don't need to be the cheapest one, but you can price it fair, and if someone comes back and offers $500 less, see if they will take $250 less.
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Jan 30, 2014 20:17
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Zeta Taskforce posted:They can't legally drive it until it's registered in their name. Knyteguy posted:Alright I'll keep that in mind. I'm worried that if it's priced too high the interest will negate any savings made. The blue book on the car in excellent condition is $11,500 and like $11,300 for good I think. Maybe if I price it at $11,500 OBO and take the offer at >= $11,000?  on selling price. I would suggest pricing it competitively against other ad's for similar cars in your area, and make sure its clean-clean-clean. Take good pictures, post a VERY minimal ad with good pictures, and see what happens. Short ad's get far more results than long ad's.
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Jan 31, 2014 03:39
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SiGmA_X posted:Really? Is this normal? My state gives you 30 days. So do both states north and south of me. Though that's only 3/50. Further car ad advice: 1. Use full sentences with proper spelling, grammar, and punctuation. 2. Include pertinent information, including at least: Year, make, model, mileage, trim packages (ex. Accord DX, LX, or EX), major options (ex. navigation). 3. When photographing your car, squat down a bit to get closer to eye level, otherwise pictures are all angled down. 4. Get your car washed, take pictures when it's shiny. 5. You want a couple of good exterior shots (side profile, front 3/4) and at least one shot of the instrument cluster while the car is on for mileage.
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Feb 3, 2014 16:05
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Anyone heard from Knyteguy in the last few months? Wondering how everything turned out for this guy!
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May 20, 2014 16:38
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wintermuteCF posted:Anyone heard from Knyteguy in the last few months? Wondering how everything turned out for this guy! Hey Wintermute, Still around. We've had some financial ups and downs since the last post. We're back on track paying down debt this month. My wife got a new job finally but its farther than before, so we still have 2 cars unfortunately. It turns out I had the model version wrong and we aren't underwater on the loan which is nice. We've been exploring options with dealers to make a deal but so far no bites. We will make something happen this summer at the latest because I'm tired of seeing the interest we pay. Anyway I'm on my phone which sucks to type with so gonna end it there I suppose. Take care.
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May 21, 2014 03:28
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Hey all, thought I'd update the thread again since I would appreciate some input on some recent decisions. Also I'm just more motivated with this thread going. News:
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May 28, 2014 17:32
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Knyteguy posted:Traded in both cars for a new corolla. Down to one car for the foreseeable future. Interest 10.99% (other car was 18%, truck was 10.95%). Our net worth is roughly the same but we're not bleeding so much interest (still too much but see below). Why did you get a new car? Why not a used one that was cheaper? Wasn't that the original plan? Also, please don't tell me that the car actually cost (down payment + 8 months * $3k) to buy for a Corolla. Would it be cheaper/easier to just break your lease and pay the fee since the rent is half of what you're currently paying? It would also be easier since your wife could then walk to work sooner.
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May 28, 2014 17:55
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Inept posted:Why did you get a new car? Why not a used one that was cheaper? Wasn't that the original plan? Also, please don't tell me that the car actually cost (down payment + 8 months * $3k) to buy for a Corolla. We couldn't get out from under the loans on a cheaper car. We were aiming for a (used) $9k Corolla, or $6k PT Cruiser originally but the numbers weren't working. It just turned out the cars were worth less than I thought (we were there for 8 hours negotiating so I did everything I could to get as much money as possible). Admittedly they both were a bit beat up just from when we bough them (both foolishly). Breaking the lease would cost around $3,400 IIRC. I agree it would be nicer for my wife, and myself because I have no vehicle at the moment, but I don't think it makes much sense? If you guys see it though let me know.
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May 28, 2014 18:08
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Knyteguy posted:We couldn't get out from under the loans on a cheaper car. We were aiming for a (used) $9k Corolla, or $6k PT Cruiser originally but the numbers weren't working. It just turned out the cars were worth less than I thought (we were there for 8 hours negotiating so I did everything I could to get as much money as possible). Admittedly they both were a bit beat up just from when we bough them (both foolishly). Why not just keep your wife's car and use it then? I don't remember if there was some issue with it. If the only difference was the APR, that's not going to matter if you can pay off the loan in under a year. As for the lease, that sounds really high compared to the monthly rent. I thought the usual for breaking a lease was forfeiting the deposit. You might want to double-check that.
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May 28, 2014 18:20
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Inept posted:Why not just keep your wife's car and use it then? I don't remember if there was some issue with it. If the only difference was the APR, that's not going to matter if you can pay off the loan in under a year. Truck I wanted to get out of ASAP because it was starting to have some problems (burning/leaking oil mostly, some not insignificant minor problems as well). We didn't stay in the Fusion because we weren't planning to pay it off so soon. The 8% interest saved was supposed to really help us get out from under the loans over time. Now though we're pretty much moving -so- we can pay it off. Going to term on the previous car loan would have cost either more than or pretty drat close to the new car. Hopefully the car lasts 20 years and I won't feel so bad. Will double check getting out of lease but there's definitely an expensive fee beyond deposit.
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May 28, 2014 18:38
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Knyteguy posted:[*]Wife got a new job, $13.50 from $11.00 per hour.  Knyteguy posted:[*]Traded in both cars for a new corolla. Down to one car for the foreseeable future. Interest 10.99% (other car was 18%, truck was 10.95%). Our net worth is roughly the same but we're not bleeding so much interest (still too much but see below). . On the one hand, good job getting rid of the 18% loan, that was a clusterfuck. Also, good job getting something that sounds reasonably reliable (Toyota) and economical (Corolla). On the other hand, you're going to eat some depreciation quickly. Having 1 car is both a blessing and a curse, but you guys will make do.Knyteguy posted:[*]Our lease is up July 31st. Current rent is $1,560.00 per month. We are moving into a new apartment that will be $695-$700 per month. Wife will then be across the street from her work. Especially since this mitigates the sting of dropping down to 1 car in two months.Knyteguy posted:[*]According to our YNAB history on non-optional bills and expenses, we will have around $4,000 a month in discretionary funds with my wife's new paycheck and rent. We're aiming to save $3,000 per month for the car which will get it paid off in 8 months, and use the additional $$ as buffer and small stuff like entertainment. 1. How much is the outstanding $$$ amount on the car note for the Corolla? 2. How much emergency cash fund do you have set aside in a bank account? Overall though, good steps! Proud of ya Knyteguy!
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May 28, 2014 19:35
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Inept posted:Why not just keep your wife's car and use it then? I don't remember if there was some issue with it. If the only difference was the APR, that's not going to matter if you can pay off the loan in under a year. I never had a lease that wasn't at least the deposit and one months rent for leaving early. Seeing as he only has one more month to pay it really make no sense at this point. I also assume his new lease starts at the end of July anyways.
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May 28, 2014 20:18
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Inept posted:As for the lease, that sounds really high compared to the monthly rent. I thought the usual for breaking a lease was forfeiting the deposit. You might want to double-check that.
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May 28, 2014 20:37
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Knyteguy posted:We couldn't get out from under the loans on a cheaper car. We were aiming for a (used) $9k Corolla, or $6k PT Cruiser originally but the numbers weren't working. It just turned out the cars were worth less than I thought (we were there for 8 hours negotiating so I did everything I could to get as much money as possible). Sorry if I'm being thick-headed, but I don't understand what you're saying here. Do you mean you were trying to get trade-in value for a used Toyota, but couldn't get there with the two vehicles you had, and couldn't get a loan to cover the difference? What did you actually pay for the car you bought, and how much of it is the loan at 10.99%?
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May 28, 2014 21:22
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wintermuteCF posted:
Thanks! At work so can't explain too much: 1) $25,000 (included some negative equity, sales tax, stuff like that). 2) Just a couple hundred right now. We pretty much fell into our old ways a few times. Like we kept having financial plans and stuff, but we lost most of it about $20.00-$30.00 at a time (oh it's fine to go out to eat/buy x/go there. The buffer can handle it). I hate to admit it but it's true. That's a big part of the reason for the recent behavior and our newest plans to get back on track. Icarus that should cover part of your question as well. The truck was pretty much a wash after what was needed to make it salable. The car was underwater. We weren't able to finance those less expensive cars because of the negative value on the car. Banks have some rule or there's some law where the loan cannot be worth more than 125% of the car at sale or something. I tried. We paid $21,325 for the car with $15,600 in trade in value (which went towards paying off those notes). I negotiated the interest rate over the MSRP. I made them show me the invoice on this car and there wasn't a lot of markup to work with at all anyway.
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May 28, 2014 21:58
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Knyteguy posted:Thanks! OK, priority 1 is to build a buffer in the form of a savings account or sub-account to your checking that holds rainy day funds. Build this before you pay down your car at an accelerated rate. You say you have a $4000 surplus per month - or will, once you move to the cheaper place - so you should be able to build this pretty fast. Ideal value for this fund would be 6 months expected expenses. So if you and your wife both lost your jobs, you'd be able to make rent, car note, put food on the table, etc. I don't know what your current budget looks like (and if you want advice, feel free to post it), but you will probably want 5-10k here. THEN pay off your car at an accelerated rate. (You don't want to sink a lot of money into the car, then lose your job and not be able to make rent, etc.)
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May 29, 2014 00:23
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Sounds like my experience with lease breaking is different than the norm. It might be because I only ever dealt with small time landlords, not rental property companies.Knyteguy posted:Truck I wanted to get out of ASAP because it was starting to have some problems (burning/leaking oil mostly, some not insignificant minor problems as well). We didn't stay in the Fusion because we weren't planning to pay it off so soon. The 8% interest saved was supposed to really help us get out from under the loans over time. I don't get this though. There's almost no way you aren't paying a lot more money by buying a new car vs keeping the old one even at a lower interest rate. What's past is past, but it doesn't sound like you're better off for having traded in the car vs. just keeping it. I mean maybe your payments would have been a bit higher, but you also would have had it paid off sooner.
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May 29, 2014 00:36
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