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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Rhyno posted:

Velcro strips.

I don't think the adhesive on velcro (anything short of permanent, really) will stand up to periods of extreme heat. Have you had better luck than I with that stuff?

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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Tomarse posted:

I've just bought an fitted a better 12V-usb adaptor for my G1W and it STILL causes radio interference.

Slightly less than the built in one in that instead of no signal at all ever I now have an occasional low signal.

Is there anything I can do? Its looking like i can have radio or the G1W at the moment.

Probably not better enough. If push comes to shove, build a little adapter with a 7805 linear regulator and some caps? Won't have the switching noise that cut-rate switchers do.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

The Locator posted:

That seems like a recipe for rear-end collisions to me.

Yeah, really. The light ahead changes, so you stab the clutch, jump off the gas, and right onto the brake, applying 20%. Then the car decides "actually, " and maxes it out? I can think of a number of situations where I'd jump from pedal to pedal quickly, without intention of braking hard.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Zero VGS posted:

Are there any HEVC H.265 dashcams yet?

Isn't HEVC incredibly compute-intensive to encode? I doubt there are any dashcams with the balls to do that in realtime.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Chinatown posted:

I will be getting it wired at a local shop probably to hide all the wires and not have it use my cigarette lighter.

You might want to reconsider this if you're at all handy with electrical. I don't trust the kids at the car stereo place or whatever to not make a mess of your wiring harness.

My dad's Ranger (the only modern car I've done any electrical on) has the cigarette lighter plug fed by a 1/4" spade connector on the back of it. What I'd do is make a Y cable for that connector, and wire in your 12V to 5V buck converter (or whatever) to that. No wires cut, and can go straight back to stock if you decide to remove it.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Takes No Damage posted:

e: Forgot to ask this, my KDlinks X1 keeps freezing up on me. Usually the whole unit just locks up, the screen even stays frozen when I turn the car off or unplug it until the battery runs out. Driving home Friday night the UI locked up but the camera kept feeding through to the rear screen, but all the buttons were still unresponsive and it still stayed on when the car turned off. This always seems to happen when it's trying to start a new file, like if I have it set to 3 minute files it locks up at just after 3 minutes, with 5 minute files it happens just after 5 minutes. I've never been able to notice any consistency about when it happens, could it still be just a bad mem card or am I looking at returning the whole unit. If I have to un-tuck the USB wire from my rear-view going down to the power plug I'm gonna be :argh:

It could just be a complete shithouse SD card. Do you have one from a camera or something you can try short-term? Would be valuable troubleshooting, anyway

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
You could probably bust apart the cigarette lighter adapter and hardwire its guts.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Powershift posted:

Or one that plays either la cucaracha or dixie.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aEnK4Hywj2k

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

baram. posted:

I've never been anywhere in the US where it's legal to make a u-turn at a light unless posted.

https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/detail/pubs/hdbk/turns

Namely,

DMV posted:

Legal U-Turns

A U-turn is turning your vehicle around in the street to go back the way you came. To make a U-turn, signal and use the far left lane or the center left turn lane. You may make a legal U-turn:
  • Across a double yellow line when it is safe and legal.
  • In a residential district:
      If there are no vehicles approaching you within 200 feet.
      Whenever a traffic sign, light, or signal protects you from approaching vehicles.
  • At an intersection on a green light or green arrow, unless a "No Uturn" sign is posted.
  • On a divided highway, only if an opening is provided in the center divider.


Illegal U-Turns

Never make a U-turn:
  • At or on a railroad crossing.
  • On a divided highway by crossing a dividing section, curb, strip of land, or two sets of double yellow lines.
  • Where you cannot see clearly 200 feet in each direction because of a curve, hill, rain, fog, or other reason.
  • Where a "No U-Turn" sign is posted.
  • When other vehicles may hit you.
  • On a one-way street.
  • In front of a fire station. Never use a fire station driveway to turn your vehicle around.
  • In business districts. Areas with churches, apartments, multiple dwelling houses, clubs, and public buildings (except schools) are also considered to be business districts. Turn only at an intersection, unless a sign prohibits it, or where openings are provided for turns.

So basically anywhere it makes sense, unless posted otherwise.

Raluek fucked around with this message at 08:50 on Dec 15, 2015

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

nm posted:

What is the current recommended software for stitching together two videos?
I know I can do it in a video player, but IIRC, there is software that automates it so there is no frame missing or duplicated.

Hard mode is virtualdub/virtualdubmod. There's probably something better.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

PenisMonkey posted:

I wouldn't stop for a rear end because the fault is pretty easy to determine most of the time. I stopped and gave my email for the one accident I did catch on video. Insurance guy contacted me about it and I sent him the link only for him to say he saw no accident. I mean, I wasn't involved but you can clearly see the car in the right lane move left into his client. Not rocket science.

http://youtu.be/OeQhYXBKTI0

It didn't really look like an accident to me, either.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

PenisMonkey posted:

You missed the silver SUV in the far right lane sideswipe the red car in front of me?

I saw that, it just didn't look accidental.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Cugel the Clever posted:

Getting further and further away from the topic of motorized vehicles here, but I'll never forget the time I biked on a trail past a runner who likely suffered from a bit of selective attention, himself. I just happened to cruise up right alongside him from behind for about 10 seconds as I was catching my breath, and the moment I start pedaling again he looks over and shouts in surprise, going so far as to throw his hands up in the air and come to a comical startled stop behind me. He probably had headphones in, but I should have definitely been in his peripheral vision.

It's polite to "On your left!" people, you know.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

nm posted:

Jesus gently caress, do not delete audio that exists on a video for something that might go to court.
Source: being a law talking guy.

I don't record audio because CA vehicle code has explict notice requirements if a dashcam is recording audio, and I curse a lot.

Edit: don't give the non-audio version to the defense either with a plan to "give the audio one to them if they demand it."

It would be nice if dashcams would have the option to record the audio and video concurrently but to separate files. That way, you're not tampering with anything if you submit just the video file as evidence, but you can provide both files if it would help your case.

Or is this not how it works?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

ChickenOfTomorrow posted:

Anyone using the Blacksys CF100 and know how to turn off the impact sensor? Even on the very lowest sensitivity setting, during normal operation it saves at least 10 clips every drive.

Twice now i've tried to pull footage only to find it's been overwritten by "poo poo, you went over a slight bump, I must record this!!!" event recording and I have no video of the excellent twisty road I wanted to show my mother.

I'm in CA, land of potholes and poor quality blacktop and I drive a sports car so I think there's more jiggling during "normal operation" than a Korean dash cam manufacturer would have expected.

I don't want to replace it because it was a gift, I've only just installed it, and apart from the touchy impact sensor and need to use custom software to view and save videos, it's a neat little needs-suiting camera.

Potholuma, lol

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Godholio posted:

Seems pretty likely. A lot of folks don't realize gas tanks aren't what they were in the 60s.

Yeah, but I bet Gierskogul's tank is pretty similar to whatever they used in the 60s. Surely they didn't change that much?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Seems like that would be a function of how crappy the power supply for the camera is. I've seen some phone/etc chargers that buzz up the radio, because they're bargain basement chinese garbage. Usually dash cams are 5V, so they'll need some sort of power supply somewhere, so I'm guessing that whichever one your friend has is probably kind of crap.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Leperflesh posted:

Like is it a normal standard thing, or is it gonna be proprietary and only work with the Genius?

Proprietary

E: Well, it's probably just power, ground, and a video signal (either composite analog, or some sort of digital signal). If it's just composite, it's not necessarily non-adaptable, but most dashcams aren't going to support plugging in a second cam, and if they do it's probably not going to be the right plug for what you've got. But maybe you'll get lucky? :shobon:

Leperflesh posted:

it gets a ton of noise interference from my alternator (which might be my car and not the cam, admittedly)

Might also be the cheap-rear end USB power supply it comes with. If you wired it with a removable USB cable, you might try a name-brand USB charger rather than whatever bottom-dollar thing (I assume) it came with.

Raluek fucked around with this message at 03:48 on Jul 13, 2017

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Leperflesh posted:

It just had a cigarette lighter dongle (no USB) on the power end) which I tore open and then soldered the power leads into a couple spare spots in the fuse box under the drivers side. Easy enough to remove but I didn't have a replacement handy. I'm guessing some kind of rectifier or filter or something would fix the issue.

If it's just USB on the camera end, you might experiment with a high quality cig lighter phone charger with a discrete USB cable, just plug it in without routing the cable or anything to see if the noise goes away. But yeah, a big capacitor should act as a decent enough low pass filter, might be worth sticking one across the power input to see if that fixes your existing supply.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Leperflesh posted:

Thanks. I'll fiddle a bit. What exactly constitutes a "big" capacitor? Like, in terms of microfarads or whatever... I've got tons of them lying around from various poo poo so I can probably find something appropriate.

Like 4700uF I'd guess? Try whatever you've got laying around and see if it helps :shobon:

E: Make sure it's rated for at least 20V! I wouldn't feel safe using a 16V cap for "12V" automotive.

I wonder if a clamp-on ferrite deal would help too. I've never used one, but people seem to think they help. Just winging it here, so grain of salt and all that.

Raluek fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Jul 14, 2017

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

ratbert90 posted:

Anything else to add would be greatly appreciated!

Supercap (no batteries!) to allow for graceful shutdown when power is cut, and also not require an always-on power source. I assume it will be USB powered like most things?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

MikeyTsi posted:

I wonder if being able to support sata, compact flash, or even standard SD might be a better idea than microSD, especially when you're talking about recording multiple HD capable video streams at a resolution that would be useful for most scenarios.

When you can get a 256GB microSD, that seems kind of unnecessary? The only reason I could see significantly changing the interface is if you are writing so much data that you'd saturate the ~800mbps the card can do, but at even modest compression rates that should be fine.

Or am I talking out my rear end? :shrug: I just don't forsee exceeding the capabilities of microSD with what amounts to a cell phone camera, even if you have a few

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

MikeyTsi posted:

I prefer the one where the car stops, so the ped just jumps on the front of the car then bounces off and lies in the road like they've been injured.

Then get mad when the driver points to his dash cam, haha.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

chrisgt posted:

I do multiple cams for the cars I drive regularly, and I have one with a suction cup mount that has a USB battery pack attached to it for cars I don't drive regularly. This includes a car with 6v electrical system that would be difficult to hook a camera up with another method. It also means I can pull it down and stuff it under the seat for car shows. Also 12v positive ground... Don't go plugging a USB thingy into that lighter plug, the smoke gets out ...

For the 6V car, USB is 5V so any voltage regulator should handle it. You can probably even just throw a 7805 at it, since it's only a volt difference at like half an amp. Or use one of those $1 ebay switching boards. For the positive ground car, maybe it's worth switching the polarity of your lighter socket. Or making a dongle that switches it, so you can keep everything original.

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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

The Linux Fairy posted:

7805s have a 2V dropout voltage, so this would not work

Oh, I remembered it as 1V. LDO then, I guess. Assuming you need it to work when the car is off anyways (since charging voltage for a 6V system is 6.9-7.25V I think)

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