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Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

Bought my dad a street guardian SG966SC for his birthday. I had no idea how tiny this thing was, and now I want to replace my Mini 0803 with one.

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Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

They usually include a cable of about that length anyway. I still had like 6ft left over though my car is reasonably small and lacking in structural safety compared to most new cars.

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

I get some noise from the alternator occasionally but that's it. No video interference, just slight buzzing in the audio sometimes.

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

Unless you do a lovely job wiring it in I strongly doubt it.

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

CarForumPoster posted:

Did you get to 1996 and just decide well thats it guys theres no more music to listen to?

pretty reasonable argument IMO.

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

how do the CP lenses affect night performance?

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

I just got my new Viofo A119S and ordered a hardwire kit with it. It says it has a low voltage detection in it for 11.6V, which seems to me that it'll keep powering the camera when the car is off, as long as its attached to a circuit that has power while off (stereo, for example)

has anyone done this and not had it kill their battery? I plan on putting it on a circuit that doesnt get power while off because A) its chinese poo poo and I dont expect it to work properly and b) I have CCTV covering my car at work so 80% of its parked time is already covered should I need it. Just curious how well these things actually work (youtube seems mixed)

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

I just installed an A119S v2 and it's pretty nice coming from a mini 0803 in terms of form factor and UI/quality.

It's stealth as gently caress but for whatever reason the sharpening is cranked to 11 with no way to change it.

I did a preview video of my keyboard at work which is black with white lettering and the lettering appears as black with a white outline :stare:

Video wise when used for its purpose it's ok but the sharpness definitely reduces the quality a bit for zero real advantage. Initially I figured it would make plates easier to read but that isn't true.

They seem frequent with updates to the firmware so I'm not too worried. Maybe I should try a downgrade to see if that improves it at all

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

Leperflesh posted:

That sounds interesting! Especially having access to the developer. Thanks for the recommendation.
e. This dashcam includes GPS data logging in all recordings.

every camera I have used with GPS has the option of displaying Coordinates, speed, or nothing.

I keep the GPS disabled unless Im doing a track day :v:

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

I do not believe that a GPS readout of 61 in a 60 zone would make your insurance find you at fault or void a claim. our national design rules dictate that all car speeds be accurate to within 10%+- and most if not all manufacturers make their speedo read under by at least 3-5km/h so you should never been a bees-dick over the speed limit unless you are actually speeding beyond a reasonable about.

cops usually apply a + 10% rule around here unless you are asking for trouble and I cant imagine them bothering to grab your dashcam footage when 99% of the time its your word against theirs in a court of law and they have the knowledge and training on how to a) get you to confess on their chest cam/microphone to the offence b) identify and execute an open-close infringement case.

basically you arent going to submit your footage to the insurance company unless you know for sure you werent the at fault driver, and if a cop wants to bust you for speeding they dont need your self-incriminating evidence to do it as they already have everything to nail you before you've been pulled over.

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

Rewarding people for submitting video would be the best way to encourage it. I had a similar idea today.

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

The g1w is well and truly outdated. It's not at all surprising they're all dying.

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

cakesmith handyman posted:

I need a reversing camera for my wife's new car and a dashcam so I thought why not combine the two? Jesus Christ the documentation and descriptions on cheap eBay dashcams that strap over the rear view are terrible :v: I can't honestly tell if some of them can act as reversing cameras at all. Any recommendations?

I have been looking at getting one and its basically this:

mount the camera, run its power wire to the reverse lamp wire in the tail light (unless you have CANBUS then maybe dont do this)

install the mirror, run the signal wire from the cam to the mirror

power mirror from 12v source.

when you engage reverse it turns on the camera and the display is switched on by the signal from the camera.


its straight forward but also engrish makes it hard to deal with.

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

I dunno I removed my pillar trim and ran the dash cam wiring behind all the Airbag stuff without too much hassle. as long as its not in the way of the airbag i dont see why you would have a problem?

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

Depending on your climate the adhesive on the tape will probably melt and the tape fall off, but sure, thats fine.

Most of the time it is recommended to disconnect the battery when working on anything electrical anyway.

I mean plenty of idiots remove airbag steering wheels for sweet aftermarket face-destroyers, and airbag fitted seats for fixed backs, and they definitely shouldnt do that. but running a wire through the trim and behind the airbag mechanism and away from the split-points in the trim panels shouldnt be an issue. there was a bunch of OEM wiring there anyway, with its own little cable tidy clips and everything, so I just routed through that.

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

Track days are better served with a 10hz GPS receiver that updates position faster (for lap timing with an app like RaceChrono)

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

I have the A119S.

It has a weird over sharpening thing that is hard coded into the firmware (although it has been improved upon slightly with some updates, and you can downgrade to older versions also). I think it was intended to make plates easier to read but it sorta hinders it in other ways.

Also has an issue with the lens not focusing all areas of view properly. Corners and edges are slightly out.

Otherwise it's fantastic. Very stable/reliable, good form factor.

I bought my dad a street guardian and if I was to buy another one I would buy that. They are well supported after purchase and overall a better camera.

YouTube kills the quality but here's a sample of the over sharpened firmware. The newer one is slightly better. The road markings and corner signage is where it's the most apparent I think.

https://youtu.be/nAQkoH8ipUg

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

Major Isoor posted:

Yeah, I've noticed the same thing with my A119S, unless the car is ahead of me in my lane. No idea if it's just something with the polarizing lens I bought at the same time as the cam though, I suppose...? (Just thought of that then, so I haven't tested with/without) I think I might have to start shouting out the license plate so I can hear it in the recording, if I see anything sus happen.

The A119S has an issue where the lens can be out of focus on one side. Its a pretty lovely process to fix though.

https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/a119s-disassemble-lens-alignment-refocus.28327/

I have the same camera and mine is out of focus on the left side.

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

Cartoon posted:

No problem here!

I live on a rough dirt road and I have to empty mine every week because of the 'SOS' files. Any way to turn down the gravometric sensor?

every camera i have owned has the ability to set the sensitivity up or down.

I had the same problem due to coilovers in my old car (10/6KG springs) even on the lowest G sensor setting.

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

Sort of related to the topic: Does anyone have a recommendation on a good quality reverse camera system?

Rear vision out of my current car is garbage (2010 Mitsubishi Evo X) and as such I have reversed it into several things. on top of that my new house has a steep driveway that is best reversed into and a camera is becoming more important than I originally suspected.

the Previous Owner had a camera hooked up to the head unit, but he took the head unit out and replaced it with a new one that is not a colour LCD display (thank god) so I was looking at after market display options. Anyway, the camera is there and wired in, so I just need a display.

I think the best method is one of those clip on rear view mirrors, but they all seem to be low-rent chinese stuff. Is there any good quality ones on the market to look out for?

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

I want to avoid a lcd head unit because they are all terrible displays outside of Apple CarPlay units and all the Apple CarPlay head units except one done have a physical volume knob, and that one i have experienced in a friends car and didn't like the way it sounded or the UI on the headunit (and CarPlay is pointless without wireless CarPlay, which that model is not). Also super expensive only to wind up in some yearly/bi-yearly hardware upgrade cycle to get new features and maintain compatibility.

I also wear polarised sunglasses so it's a 50/50 chance I'd even be able to use the LCD if I had one installed.

The high contrast nature of a dot matrix display like the one in my head unit is perfectly fine for my needs.

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

Yeah I didn't need baby's first lesson on polarised lenses, I'm fully aware of what my current headunit has and is capable of (and the significant drop in brightness and contrast when viewed through my own glasses)

I just don't like full colour displays and would like to avoid them - I don't want a touch screen in the car for controlling poo poo since my cars steering wheel controls are limited to volume and source/track, and I prefer the function of a volume knob over buttons. Full colour head units are also expensive when all I need is a screen to show the reverse camera.

I'm not sure how you ended up at installing a CRT display but all I asked was "what's the best non-headunit method of viewing a reverse camera" not "here's my unreasonable list of demands for a mythical head unit to suit my specific needs"

My previous headunit was an alpine IDA-X100 and it's colour LCD display was almost unreadable in daylight with sunglasses on WITH the polarising lining up favourably, and half the reason I wanted to get away from that setup on my next car.

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

Meydey posted:

My biggest gripe is finding an android auto/carplay head unit with a loving volume knob. The only current, reasonable option seems to be the Sony XAV-AX100 at $348.
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XAV-AX100-Android-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B01MF9W0GU

I didnt like the way this HU sounded in my friends Soarer, but then again its also a Soarer so its probably acoustically very poor.

Im pretty happy using my phone for Nav and bluetooth music/calls to the head unit. I use an iphone, but I prefer Google Maps/Waze to Apple maps, so im not using Carplay for Nav, and then im also not enthused about plugging my phone into the car every time I get in and want my poo poo to work. Spending money on a Carplay head unit doesnt make any sense in that regard.

So you go down market to a double DIN full face display, and they are all matte finish low-rent touchscreen LCDs with a terrible UI, lack of actual buttons and volume knob.

Thats how I ended up at the point of wanting a rear view mirror display. Not because I want to, but because its the only solution that doesnt significantly impact the ease of use of the head unit.

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

I've always used a fuse rated for whatever the socket was originally designed for as the 'main' fuse socket in the fuse tap and then a 5A fuse for the dash cam.

I normally add the fuse tap on the 12v outlet circuit.


in other news, a dude on the dashcamtalk forums has hacked custom firmwares for the A119 series of cameras. The biggest selling point of this is the higher bitrate - the sensors can do up to 28mbit (OEM settings are around 15mbit) which is close to GoPro level quality, while also adding controls for sharpness (dashcams seem to over sharpen potentially to make plates easier to read?) and saturation. hes pretty active and is even making custom firmware for people at request.

I just updated mine to the 25mbit firmware and i'll review the footage tonight in comparison to the OEM stuff. obviously there'll be a tradeoff with storage due to higher bit rate but it should improve the image quality at the edges enough to make more plates readable.

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

Major Isoor posted:

Oh nice - yeah, definitely post your thoughts about it later on if you don't mind, since I for one would be very interested to hear how it goes!

Theres plenty of demos on the dashcamtalk forums. you can go to the full 28mbit that the sensor can handle but apparently the parking mode of the camera wont work. also probably not the best for longevity of the hardware to run it at its absolute peak performance.

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

If you're replacing the radio, adding a dash cam into an on-only circuit is trivial (twist the power wire into the radio power wire when you install the radio), and even easier again if you use a fuse tap/add a circuit.

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

cakesmith handyman posted:

Please don't, instead try the novel idea of making a safe secure connection by any of a dozen other methods instead?

I solder and heat shrink. OP is somehow simultaneously against using a fuse tap but also totally OK installing an aftermarket radio.

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

Is this why my head unit clock loses 2 minutes over the course of 8 months? I normally gotta add 2min whenever I switch DST On/off

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

Sagebrush posted:

Yes, probably. 2 minutes in 8 months is roughly 6 parts per million, which is right what you'd expect for a generic quartz timing crystal (most of those I've seen are specced +/- 20ppm or so).

Crystals also expand and contract slightly with temperature, which alters their frequency even more, so if you live in a particularly hot part of the world you might find that your marginally larger crystal beats just a little slower and your clock loses time a bit more rapidly.

In general the crystals are trimmed for the median temperature in the sort of places humans usually inhabit, though, so the annual weather changes will mostly average out.

Yeah im in Sydney AUS and it goes from as low as 1C in winter nights to 45C+ in summer (and I can only imagine in-car temps in summer would be nearing 60C+)

that explains it! cool.

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

chrisgt posted:

The driver may not have seen the white van drifting into their lane because they may also have been distracted and not paying attention. If one of both of them was paying attention the crash wouldn't have happened, but...

you cant really see it in the video but it doesnt look like the van is indicating either.

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Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

Megillah Gorilla posted:

Thanks for this. I've been looking for a good camera for my car. It's Aus$300 here which isn't too bad either.

So, it works in -40°C? Great, now I just need to find out how it handles +40°C.

Well, it would actually need to be more like +70°C, because cars are ovens if you leave them in the sun.

I've had the Viofo A119S for almost 2 years without problem, parked daily in the sun.

the device itself is usually fine, its the lithium batteries some models have that cant handle the heat. anything with super capacitors is fine.

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