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Takes No Damage posted:Apparently even roads adjacent to 635 are affected. All of that was so the dumb bastard could go around one light (Preston), only to turn at the next. Yeah, I'm very familiar with the Preston/Montfort fuckery - I used to take the same shortcut. 
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Nov 5, 2019 23:48
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Budgie posted:Modern drivers leave the headlights on auto. This combination leads the driver to believe their lights are in fact on when it's only the front daytime running lights. Except a lot of cars still don't have automatic headlights (but have bright as hell DRLs, and light up the dash anytime the ignition is on). If Toyota could add an ambient light sensor to the loving base model Corolla/Matrix to save Captain Ignorant, anybody can. It's pennies when you're doing it at that kind of volume. GF's Matrix is an absolute base model (only option is floor mats), and runs the low beams at reduced brightness as DRLs - if you drive more than 30 seconds with only DRLs at night, it kicks on everything else automatically. The annoying thing is, once they're on, they're on until you shut off the car, no matter what you do with the parking brake or headlight switch. My car also runs the low beams at reduced brightness for DRLs, but if I just leave the headlight switch on, it runs everything anytime the car is on, and turns everything off when you shut it off. Kind of annoying if I want to leave the lights on while parked (say, if I'm doing a delivery and double parked in front of an apartment building at night); I have to use Subaru's "gently caress you and your battery" parking light switch that gives no chime or dash lights when it's on. It almost got me once, thankfully I went back out to the car about 15 minutes after getting home and noticed the parking lights on.
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Nov 27, 2019 20:50
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Charles posted:I can't remember which manufacturer it was but at the car show there was a stalk that had Auto as default and Off as a momentary switch so you can't leave it in that position. One of my Saturns was like that, except it was labeled "DRL OFF". But it also turned off the automatic headlights. The second one had the same physical switch (in that it had the momentary position you could twist it to), but it was labeled differently. That one didn't have auto headlights, and turning it to that momentary position did not turn off the DRLs like it did with the first. tl;dr I'd bet it was a GM.
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Nov 27, 2019 21:10
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The cops in my suburb are bored enough to go after people with only DRLs. And one license plate bulb out (out of two). And one brake light out (out of 5 including the CHMSL). County sheriff also actively patrols out here, they're much more bored than the city cops. Probably partly because they were on Live PD for a couple of years.
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Nov 27, 2019 21:13
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taqueso posted:"Go after" like inform and give a warning fix it ticket that means nothing or give real tickets? Bit of column A, bit of column B. Depends on the cop. I've managed to escape tickets so far, but I've been pulled over 4 or 5 times since I moved here a year and a half ago. My last ticket was in 2005, and the last time I was pulled over before I moved here was before 2010. I've had one cop search the car (despite my refusing consent); the same cop responded when I called about a neighbor's burglar alarm going off. I happened to be outside taking out the trash when he showed up, he asked if I was the one who called, I said yes, and he wound up detaining me, searching me (not a pat down, but pulling everything out of my pockets), running my ID, etc. Never did check the neighbor's alarm.  I'm definitely moving when my lease is up, the cops that patrol my neighborhood in particular are on a power trip. Maybe a good chunk of the department.  Lake of Methane posted:On the opposite side, I've noticed when a car is driving around with its high beams on, nine times out of ten it's going to be an 8th or 9th gen Civic. Most of the cluster is a mix of blue and white on the 8th gen (except for the Si), I assume the high beam indicator just blends in. I've pulled up next to someone in an 8th gen and told them their high beams were on though, and they just turned off the lights entirely.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Nov 28, 2019 |
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Nov 28, 2019 18:30
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Welcome to bored surburbia cops. I've dealt with similar poo poo in other suburbs when I was younger, I just didn't expect to run into it again in my 40s. The long hair didn't help, though it's since been cut (it's now what I'd consider "shaggy" - still down to my chin, but no longer 1/3 of the way down my back). The beater car doesn't help. The piercings don't help. The tint on the car doesn't help. Ink doesn't seem to help either.
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Nov 28, 2019 19:16
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I have a dashcam video I want to post, but it has (a) a coworker's car visible (and he asked that if I upload the video, to block out the license plate) and (b) another coworker's face visible (road rage passenger screaming at him and pounding his window  ).Anyone have suggestions on easy ways to blur out a face and license plate? Let's pretend I have no experience with video editing except for trimming clips and joining clips...
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Dec 2, 2019 21:40
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Craptacular posted:This seems like the easiest. PERFECT! Thank you! Now I just need to get off my rear end and pull the video.  I hit the "emergency" button, so it shouldn't get overwritten (not that I drive much anymore anyway, and it has a 64GB card...)
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Dec 3, 2019 19:14
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I've been awake nearly 24 hours, and really don't want to stumble 2 buildings away to my garage to yank the dashcam. I'll try to pull it overnight. I'm not even sure where my microSD card reader is right now.. It's honestly not that interesting of a video, it's more the audio that's interesting. rear end in a top hat CW jumped out of my car, stomped up to the passenger window of another coworker's car (also being an rear end in a top hat by stopping in the middle of the aisle to block us in), pounded on his window, and started screaming at him about being late for his therapy appointment. The screaming about a therapy appointment is what makes it hilarity, though you can hear me and another coworker cracking up. Dude has some serious anger issues, and I probably won't be giving him a ride again in the future. He didn't do anything to me or the car, but the level of anger I saw over someone being an immature dick was kinda scary. (he doesn't drive... takes the bus to/from work, lives in one of the shittiest apartment complexes near work... despite making $45k+/yr stocking shelves). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Dec 3, 2019 |
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Dec 3, 2019 19:19
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Man, not even close. This was pretty much frothing at the mouth screaming, complete with him throwing my passenger door open so hard that I was worried about it closing again, and beating on other coworker's passenger door window. e: goddamnit. now I WANT to stay up to edit and post the video, but I have no clue where my card reader is. Both parties told me they don't want it uploaded, but hey, one party consent state (I let rear end in a top hat CW know about the dashcam on a previous ride), video in a public area (parking lot), and I'd be blurring out the license plate and faces. The only way you'd be able to identify anyone after that would be if you (a) recognized the parking lot and (b) worked overnights at my store. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Dec 3, 2019 |
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Dec 3, 2019 19:24
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Pretty much yeah. I just don't know where the gently caress my card reader is; I use it maybe once every couple of months. Worst case, we wait until I get paid again for me to go get another USB card reader. The camera doesn't show up as a USB device if I plug it into the PC, it's strictly power via USB.
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Dec 3, 2019 19:29
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It does have wifi, but it's essentially dialup speed (it takes ~10-15 minutes to transfer a 3 minute clip), and the app doesn't seem to play nice with Android 10 - at least, not my particular phone. The phone keeps forcing itself back onto mobile data once it realizes "oh hey this wifi AP doesn't have the internets", unless I force the phone into airplane mode and enable wifi by itself. My phone is also a special loving snowflake (Essential PH-1) from a company that only made one phone ever.  The battery on the camera is also trashed, so I have to sit in the car with the key on to do that (the camera also requires a 1.5A power supply, so your typical 500mA-1A wall wart will cause it to power cycle - luckily the USB connectors on my head unit put out 1.5A/each without needing to negotiate Quick Charge or anything, only reason I was able to ditch the included cig lighter power supply). All of the wall warts I own that are capable of putting out over 500mA require some form of Quick Charge or Power Delivery protocol, otherwise they default to 500mA. When I first got the camera, I could easily get 30 minutes out of the battery; it shuts off with a low battery warning about 5 seconds after shutting off the car now (instead of recording for an additional 60 seconds). TotalLossBrain posted:Is that a confirmed camera feature? Tried it with multiple micro USB cables, same result. Doesn't show up as a mountable file system, or any kind of device - it just starts trying to power up over and over again (since a PC USB port is limited to 500mA....) It was a great dashcam a couple of years ago. I'm just too cheap to replace the fucker until it starts corrupting the card when I shut off the car. At least right now, it pops up a low battery warning immediately after shutting off the car, and does a graceful shutdown (usually). It'll corrupt the card once a month or so, always when it just turns off without showing the shut down screen. tl;dr Anker makes great cables and battery packs, their dashcams not so much... tl;dr2: excuses are like assholes, everybody has at least one randomidiot fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Dec 3, 2019 |
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Dec 3, 2019 20:00
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I've had to show dashcam video to cops a few times. It was always with my old G1W, which had a horrible screen. Thankfully, the one time I actually got in an accident with it, I had a tablet with me that had a microSD slot. The other driver claimed I ran a red light, and slammed into him doing 60+. It was a protected left turn with 2 lanes turning, and he took it wide with me in the outside lane. The cop was already asking him to repeat it (and to write it down as an actual statement, probably so he could nail him with giving a false statement), because the damage from a Saturn slamming into a Lexus at 60 MPH would have put at least myself in the hospital, if not the morgue. Instead, my car got the front bumper refinished, and they needed a new rear bumper and reflector. IIRC the total repairs on my car wound up being about $700, plus a rental for two days. That's not a repair bill you get from a 60 mph collision. The only other time I remember having to show a cop the video was when I called in someone that was ping-ponging from curb to curb (on an 8 lane road - 4 each way - 50 mph road, he was doing 15-20ish IIRC). The cops didn't catch up until he'd parked at a drug store and gotten out of the car, so they couldn't do anything unless they had proof. The dashcam showed everything, including him pulling into the store, parking (across 2 parking spaces), and falling out of the car. Despite the terrible screen, they basically said "yeah, that's all we need for an arrest... can you email us the videos for whenever he goes to court?". The cops later told me he had taken Seroquel (an antipsychotic that's also used off label as a very powerful sleep aid).
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Dec 3, 2019 20:13
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People are idiots, that why you're supposed to leave it on until you've completed your turn. 
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Jan 27, 2020 05:56
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CornHolio posted:If you look, there's left turn arrows painted on the road in that lane. I believe here in Indiana they're explicitly for left turns only, not for turning into and using to merge. I could be wrong though. We have the same lanes here, and they're used for merging with traffic all the time. It's the only way to make a left turn on a lot of roads here. I routinely turn left into them, stop, and wait for an opening. You're not meant to use it as an on-ramp, just wait until there's a gap to merge into, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.
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Jan 29, 2020 19:09
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You undoubtedly already have a mobile phone anyway - why not get a power bank that doesn't have a built in charger? It'll be a bit cheaper per mAh. I think I paid $30 for my Aukey 10000 mAh, with two USB A ports and one USB C port. One USB A port has Qualcomm Quick Charge, the USB C port supports Power Delivery - so you have the two major quick charging standards handy for your phone, and it'll still crank out 1 - 1.5 amps on the regular port for your dashcam. Downside is when you decide to get a Chinese phone that uses VOOP for its fast charging standard (hello OnePlus, Huawei, Xiaomi, etc - guess who's rocking a OnePlus these days ). That particular pack can be charged either via USB C or a micro USB port.
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Feb 11, 2020 23:45
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EL BROMANCE posted:It feels like something so obvious I can't believe it isn't a default thing. My car is like 10 years old, but it's still a surprise... it's not a new issue! The radio I can agree would be annoying though, unless you could override it easily enough. GM started doing "retained accessory power" (radio/power windows stay on for 15 minutes or a door is opened, whichever comes first) in 1990 on some models. I remember my mom's 1990 Eldorado had it, and I think I remember my grandfather (who owned several GM dealers) saying it was a new thing for that model year. Both of my Saturns had it, they would also kill all interior lights after either 15 or 30 minutes (so if you left a door or trunk open, no dead battery). The latter is really annoying when you rent a GM box truck that has the cargo light powered by the dome light in the cab - you have to open the door again (even though the dash light override switch is on) to get it back on. I had two power sockets in the Saturns, the one up front was constantly live. The other was switched with accessory power. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:52 on Feb 25, 2020 |
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Feb 25, 2020 05:47
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fknlo posted:It's supposed to last 10 years. Still not exactly worth it of course. The number of people that have actually had to replace the battery is pretty low as far as I can tell, so it seems to be holding up alright. The oldest f80's are only like 5 years old though, including mine. Hopefully there will be some aftermarket options at some point, but I don't know if that will work with the whole coding thing. The original battery in my first Saturn died right around the 10 year mark, and it was a plain ol' lead acid battery. Getting the battery out of the hot engine bay does wonders for longevity.
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Feb 25, 2020 19:42
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Honestly not sure, but mine was in the trunk as well. They've been playing the hide the battery game for awhile. Under the back seat, under the driver's seat (which really sucks if you have power seats and the battery dies), in the trunk, and to make it real fun, in the hatch of the HHR, which can only open the hatch electrically (no key or manual release).
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Feb 25, 2020 20:26
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The restart is drat near instant on modern auto stop/start; the ECU knows exactly where the engine stopped, and knows how to fire it back up again quickly. Some don't even need to spin the starter (they fire an injector just before the engine stops, then fire the plug on that cylinder when it needs to start), some use an alternator that doubles as a starter once the engine is warm. Others just have a beefier starter. Either way, it restarts as you release the brake pedal. Annoyingly, the batteries are almost always more expensive. Keeping the AC cranked up will sometimes defeat the stop/start.
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Feb 27, 2020 06:39
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wolrah posted:IIRC you're thinking of the 4.2L V8, which for whatever fucktarded reason has the timing chains on the back instead of the front, meaning that servicing them is an engine-out job, and of course in true German fashion they used plastic that disintegrates over time for the chain guides. Ford did this when they converted the old 4.0 V6 to OHC. Except they used a jackshaft, so you had one timing chain on the front, and one on the rear. Guess which one usually needed attention first? Nissan used plastic guides on the KA24 too - they were a mild irritant in RWD configuration. The FWD version that got used in the Altima 93-01... it was an engine-out job, and the timing chain rattling is exactly why I got rid of that car. It was usually the top guide, but a TSB had that just removed entirely if a customer complained, and mine had that TSB completed. Mine was definitely rattling from a lower guide and/or bad tensioner and/or stretched chain. It ran like a raped ape (99 with a 5 speed from an 01, 00-01 got a slightly shorter final drive), but it rattled bad for the first ~5 seconds on a cold start. It had enough other issues that I opted to let Carmax just send it to auction. Krispy Wafer posted:Honestly, had I known how much of a headache USB ports were going to be I would have sprung for the professional installation. I agree on the battery versions (in any southern state), but how are USB ports a headache? Particularly if you have an aftermarket stereo - most of them have USB ports. My dashcam is powered off of one of the USB ports on the back of my stereo (Kenwood). Running the wire was kind of a pain, but luckily I was already pulling the cluster to replace some bulbs in it when I threw the stereo and dashcam in (would have been a major PITA otherwise). No side impact airbags or anything, so it was a cakewalk to run it down the pillar and behind the cluster in my case.
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Mar 6, 2020 18:53
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So dashcam got stolen when my car got broken into. Affordable options? I'd prefer to stay under $100, but the Viofo A129 looks pretty nice (just... $$). I'm coming from a Roav C1 that had been replaced under warranty twice (and was dying again), so most stuff will be a decent upgrade. 1080 or 2k, 120+ degree lens (but not super wide like 170), and good night video are my must-haves, and I'd prefer NOT to have built-in GPS. Micro USB power would be very nice as that means I don't need to re-run any wiring. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:47 on Dec 5, 2020 |
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Dec 5, 2020 15:45
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opengl128 posted:I'm at almost 2 years with this one, zero complaints. Does its job silently, never have to touch it or think about it. I like that it is reasonably low profile and not some big screen hanging down, it disappears behind my rear view where I have it mounted. The 170 degree lens is a big turnoff for me - my last one was close to that, and the field of view was so wide that it was really hard to make out details at night. Even during the day, it was kinda hard to make out license plates (also part of why I want to go to 2k if possible). I'll keep it in mind though. I know Aukey makes good stuff, and that's a nice price.
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Dec 5, 2020 18:02
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Wickerman, what's the power connection on it? Is it just a typical micro USB? If so, that's pushing me harder toward it, since I already have a hardwired micro USB cable dropping out of the headliner. Also, what's the power requirement, if you know? At the moment, I have the cable plugged to the rear USB on my stereo, which can push 1A @ 5V. May switch back to my old stereo (not as fancy, but more reliable and has more features), which pushes 1.5A from the rear USB. I don't care about parking mode or anything like that. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Dec 5, 2020 |
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Dec 5, 2020 19:19
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Bringing this thread back from the dead. Finally in a modern car with airbags everywhere. Knees, side impact, etc (2008 Lexus ES 350, essentially a well optioned 2008 Camry with a different badge). Trying to figure out how I can run a hardwire kit. It has side impact airbags (front and rear), front ones definitely in the A pillars (maybe seats too), rear ones in the seat bolsters (and maybe elsewhere?). Also thinking I'm going to switch to a front+rear setup, hence why I mention the rear airbags - obviously the easiest way to run the rear camera cable is along the side up top, but I don't know if there's anything in the C pillar. I'm considering tapping into the sunroof power feed or mirror's compass power feed in the overhead console for power - think this would be okay? (they're both switched, might even be the same circuit) Or would I be better off trying to fit it behind the door seal (where it overlaps with the A pillar trim) and snaking it under the dash to the fuse box with an add-a-fuse kit? Biggest concern is keeping the cables from running in front of airbags. Currently a Viofo A119, though I'll probably upgrade to the A129 soon. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:01 on Jan 30, 2023 |
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Jan 30, 2023 03:41
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Well poo poo. I just realized something. How do you mount a rear dashcam when you have a powered rear sunshade? Off in one of the corners? Or not use the sunshade? It's a black car, we hit 84 today too - it's a loving oven in there already. I plan to keep the rear sunshade up when it's parked outside or when driving during the day. I don't think I can easily modify the sunshade and just leave it up either - it automatically retracts when I put the car in reverse.
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Feb 21, 2023 01:28
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Nocheez posted:Can you cut a hole that allows the lens to see through it? STR posted:I don't think I can easily modify the sunshade and just leave it up either - it automatically retracts when I put the car in reverse. There's kind of sort of a big beefy plastic frame around it. It would directly hit the rear camera if I mounted it to the glass. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Feb 21, 2023 |
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Feb 21, 2023 04:24
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That's a, uh, interesting adapter. Wonder if someone makes one for Toyota? That would save me from digging into the headliner for power - my original plan was to tap into the autodimming mirror wiring for switched 12V; if that wound up not being an option (since the outside mirrors also auto-dim), I was going to tap into the sunroof wiring. Nearly every autodimming and/or Homelink mirror is made by Gentex anyway. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:47 on May 1, 2023 |
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May 1, 2023 06:45
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Nice! Thanks for the heads up on that. As I mentioned earlier, pretty much every mirror that has any active stuff is made by Gentex, but the plugs are different on every make. I had a 2015 Kia Optima mirror in my Crown Victoria (it just had wires coming out of it when I bought it from a Kia dealer; constant or switched +12V for Homelink, switched +12V for the compass and auto dimming, ground). I wound up wiring it to the same wires I used for my dashcam. Still have it, and it would be pretty easy to swap into my current car (08 Lexus ES350), but it'd be weird having Homelink on both the ceiling console and mirror (the Homelink on the Kia mirror is a bit newer and works with most door openers currently on the market; the Homelink built into the car... doesn't).
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May 1, 2023 09:38
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The lenses on dashcams are incredibly wide angle; front and rear are going to pick up at least someone zipping past you just before sideswiping you, and enough detail to show the front of the car that just ran a red light and ripped your front end off when you had a green light (usually enough for a make/model at the least). I've only seen 4 camera setups on stuff like garbage trucks. Not saying they don't have their place, I've just only seen them on heavy trucks (mainly garbage trucks and trucks with fixed cargo areas - pretty pointless on an 18 wheeler). The ones I installed at a previous job supported up to 5 cameras (with the windshield camera having an optional in-cab camera), but we just did the one windshield camera w/driver cam.
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May 6, 2023 02:51
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