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Is there a free or cheaper than $99/year YNAB alternative for bucket/envelope based budgeting? I don’t need it to sync to my bank account but it would be cool as a plus but not mandatory.
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Jul 27, 2023 13:02
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| # ¿ May 4, 2024 16:46 |
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Which one of those apps (or something else not listed) works like YNAB but offers future planning? Like with YNAB I can budget what I have today into the future, but I’d like to be able to nerd out and plan my future budget with future earnings that I don’t have today but 100% expect to have baring something catastrophic. And then adjust accordingly as the time comes.
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Aug 8, 2023 12:12
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Pipistrelle posted:If anyone is interested in trying Monarch Money, they have a 30 day free trial going right now because of the mint announcement. How are you liking it?
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Dec 18, 2023 01:08
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Monarch lets me link my current 401k and HSA but it doesn’t auto populate holdings. Fidelity’s Full View thing lets me connect my 401k and HSA and shows me my actual investments. But it doesn’t work with my daily checking account. I heard Simplifi was another good alternative.
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Dec 18, 2023 12:41
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Just FYI, you can get one year of Quicken Simplifi for free by doing an 'import from Mint'. If you don't want to import your entire Mint history all you have to do is add a single transaction in Mint (eg, charge $420.69 on 4/20/69 to a manual account) and export that transaction as a csv to get the formatting, then import into Simplifi.
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Dec 26, 2023 14:37
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Is there a way to trial actual quicken without paying first? All I see is a 30 day refund.
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Dec 31, 2023 15:55
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YNAB syncs via Plaid and iirc others now.
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Jan 10, 2024 00:57
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Heroic Yoshimitsu posted:The initial CC charge can go into whatever category it’s actually for (Hobbies,Groceries,etc.) Heroic Yoshimitsu posted:- The payment from checking (-100) Heroic Yoshimitsu posted:- The checking payment going into the CC account (+100)
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Jan 20, 2024 23:04
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Heroic Yoshimitsu posted:So from my experience, what I feel like what happens is that I put the initial CC transaction in candles, quote:then I log the checking payment to CC into the CC Payment category. Budget $100 to candles. Buy $60 worth of candles recorded on the cc. YNAB will now reflect that you have $40 left for candles and $60 allocated to pay the new debt you just created. If you now try to manually move $60 from candles to credit card then you end up with -$20 in candles and $120 set aside for the credit card. Just record the transaction at point of sale and again when you pay the bill by recording a payment. Boris Galerkin fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Jan 21, 2024 |
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Jan 21, 2024 15:23
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Heroic Yoshimitsu posted:I go to the +20 transaction on my CC Credit, and file it under the CC Payment category. This then correctly identifies the -20 on the savings account as the "Sending money to the CC" part of the transaction, which is good. But now in my CC Payment category, it is asking me to cover the -$20 by moving some kind of money to it -- this is part I don't get. Ok so maybe this is where it’s going wrong. To record a payment, you tap on Budget, tap on credit card payment category, then you tap on “record payment”. It will bring up a new transaction with everything prefilled it’s the easiest way. You shouldn’t be doing anything like “going to the +20 transaction in the CC category and changing the category.” All that is handled for you.
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Jan 21, 2024 22:33
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You’ve blocked out the amount values that matter so it’s not really clear what’s happening.Heroic Yoshimitsu posted:and paid it off via a checking transfer to the CC.
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Jan 21, 2024 23:27
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Age of Money is the dumbest metric. It’s averages the “age” of money spent in your last 10 cash transactions or something stupid like that. If you pay everything on a card then your age of money makes no sense because the $420 you’ve charged on your card isn’t considered spent until you pay the bill.
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Feb 2, 2024 22:48
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I wanna say that if you stopped adding more income and just spent from the account, then your age of money would also keep going up uP UP to the moon until you run out of money and then it goes to 0 days. This is because it checks the age against the last time you deposited cash. Or something stupid like that. So if the last time you deposited money was a year ago then your age of money is 1 year congrats. Even if that deposit was $1 and your total account balance is $1.
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Feb 2, 2024 23:24
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Happiness Commando posted:Ynab is for proscriptively deciding how you will spend each dollar - it's like the envelope system. The idea is that you have a number of envelopes with a certain amount of money in each of them each month. If the envelope is empty (you've already spent your hookers and blow money), you aren't allowed to purchase a thing (more blow or hookers) until you get more money or move it from a different envelope. You can’t really make a blanket statement like this. Lots of people manage to have a healthy budget and live within their means without needing to track every single dollar. YNAB was great for me earlier in my life, but nowadays I get much much much far less value out of it. I’ve been playing around with lunch money lately. I upload a csv, classify it once, and the next csvs just work.
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Feb 22, 2024 13:48
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YNAB is $99 if you pay for a year up front, a little less than half of that $15/mo price. I believe new accounts get a 1 month trial and if you sign up with a referral code then you get an extra month for a total of 2 (and I think the other person gets a free month as well).
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Mar 17, 2024 03:45
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Zamujasa posted:That makes it a bit easier to swallow, at least. I guess I just need a referral code, then Someone else can give you one I'm sure. I would but I'm not sure if my name will be attached to it and I'd rather not. Alternatively if no goons are posting there's a stickied thread in r/ynab with referrals.
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Mar 17, 2024 18:40
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Mustang posted:Just started using YNAB but it does something that I find incredibly annoying. I pay for a Washington post subscription once a year in June. But YNAB wants to allocate 33% of it this month and presumably in May and June as well. How do I stop it from doing this? YNAB is very opinionated on How Things Should (Must) Be Done. Expenses that occur once a year should be budgeted for ahead of time so that you have that money available when it's time to pay the bill. So either you remove the target date, or you set aside 1/3 (and then later 1/12 after you've paid this years dues) every month until it's bill time or you snooze the target every month and it'll remind you every time you look at your budget that you're off track, or you fully fund it today and stop worrying I guess.
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Apr 16, 2024 22:14
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Jesus Christ I have like 15 categories and I thought that was too much. I have the basics like "Rent" and "Utilities" and "Groceries". I also have "Pet" and "Medical." All my subscriptions are just "Subscriptions". I have one "Shopping" category that are just random non-grocery related expenses. When I buy household stuff or shampoo I usually buy it when I'm grocery shopping so that all gets counted as "Grocery" too because I can't be assed to enter a split transaction. When I was much younger I had budget line items for "coffee" and "drinks/alcohol" and stuff like that but I ain't got time for that these days. It's all just "Food" even if it's just drinks at a bar. e: quote:Everyday Expenses: Walking Around Money If it works for you it works for you but what even is stuff like this? I really don't get it cause in my mind you're either spending it on food, drinks, or entertainment or shopping. Why does pocket change need to be its own category? I feel like having so many categories with so many misc stuff is a waste of time but hey, if it works for you then that's all that matters I guess. Boris Galerkin fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Apr 18, 2024 |
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Apr 18, 2024 21:40
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| # ¿ May 4, 2024 16:46 |
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Leon Sumbitches posted:How do you handle cash? I suppose you could monitor each penny of that $100 withdraw and then, after you spend it, split the $100 ATM charge into categories X,Y,Z. I'm personally not that picky at this point in my budgeting career. I pull $20 from the atm and deduct it from "shopping" and then I never worry about it again. Or if I'm specifically pulling cash out for a bar or something for some reason I guess I'd deduct it from "food." E: not saying I'm doing it right and everyone else is doing it wrong of course. I'm just at the point in my life where I bring in more than I spend and I don't really need to know where every single dollar is. E2: I never really use cash though. I pull out a $20 and exchange it for quarters for the laundry every now and then. For that I just mark it as shopping money because it's less of a hassle than having a category specifically for household stuff. Boris Galerkin fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Apr 18, 2024 |
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Apr 18, 2024 21:52
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