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spwrozek posted:Who actually uses a debt card? Use credit for everything. \ People who don't have credit cards? I just bought YNAB for $29.99, because the lowest it's ever going to go is another $15, and who knows when that will be? Summer? December? I'm taking a "take your time but hurry up" approach to learning to track and plan everything. I've gathered so far that since it's really only dealing with the money you have right now, that even though I have bills I know I will pay later this month, and paychecks I know I will get, that I should just wait on entering them until they are actually paid/in my account? I have to make one massive student loan payment next month to get current with that, but otherwise I should get to the point of being one month ahead sometime in April.
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Feb 6, 2014 01:09
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jon joe posted:Is there a way to see net worth of all on and off budget accounts? Combined? Isn't that All Accounts?
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Dec 24, 2014 05:49
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I'm always looking for more ways to When accounting for the interest on my two loans (car and student loan), what I've been doing is just recording a transfer of the entire payment from my bank account to the off budget loan account, and then at the beginning of every month, making a manual adjustment to bring it to the current balance. Though I might start doing that less frequently. That method is pretty straightforward and when all is said and done the money is going to be paid off whether classified as principal or interest, but it won't make the interest paid show up as an expense in reports, which I think would be a big motivator to pay everything off ASAP. If I really want to, I can go look up how much interest I've paid, but it won't be staring me in the face whenever I open up YNAB. The other method, I think, is recording a transfer for the principal, and an expense in a category (Interest Paid?) which will accomplish everything above, but will be something I can track. Which is the preferred SA method?
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Jul 28, 2015 05:24
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Where would you put a credit card carrying a balance to pay down, that you intend to never use? I have about $3,200 on a Chase Slate that has 0% APR through the end of next year that I intend to pay off as slowly as possible until a few months before. I won't be making new purchases because I know better (they lose their 0% APR until the balance transfer is paid off) so I figured I would give it the same treatments as I do my loans. Everything searching for YNAB help results in recommends keeping them on budget, so maybe I have the wrong idea about this.
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Nov 12, 2015 00:27
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No chance I'll be using it any time soon, and I likely never will. Once it's paid off next year I might put a coffee on it every few months just to keep it for the utilization and age of accounts, but I signed up specifically to transfer a balance and nothing else. Yes 0% APR for purchases, but not ones made after transferring a balance. Otherwise, 22.9% APR. It has no rewards either. ilkhan posted:Double check that I'm right but as far as I know 0% is 0%. The only thing having a balance does is get rid of the grace period. You could be right about this. I still have a long way to go before I would need to use the card again, though. Two other %0 APR cards, and of course, not carrying a balance is an option. I'd just pay as I spend without building up large balances on my cards, but I'm focusing on paying off my car first. Moneyball fucked around with this message at 02:34 on Nov 12, 2015 |
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Nov 12, 2015 01:59
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I'm fine with YNAB as it is now. Mint did a terrible job capturing all my transactions anyway. Or got them wrong, or other issues. An added benefit to entering all transactions, not that I'm the first to point this out, is it makes you more aware of how often you spend money. Related to that, simplifying purchases, I've been considering just buying grocery store gift cards (especially if I find a discount) and re-upping whenever one runs out. I'm single and only shop for a week or two at a time, so I make frequent trips. Less transactions to enter, and the added bonus of being compelled to stick to groceries over fast food. (My problem) I figure it will look strange at first- $200 one month, $0 the next, but over time it will start to even out.
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Dec 30, 2015 19:29
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I've created kind of a mess. For a few months, I have been putting as much of my spending on credit cards as possible, due to the 0% APR, and using all my cash to pay down my car loan. Everything on my account looks normal, except there's a $4,800 over spend (soon to be $7,800) in the car payment category.  As you can see, I just sort of fill in whatever is leftover unbudgeted to bring it down. That's fine, and will go away, but what happens once I pay that off and start paying down the cards? Cards are on budget, so I'll just be doing on-budget transfers. The money to budget will start piling up, with no outflows. Should I have started with something like this instead? 
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Jan 14, 2016 06:17
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Dale Sveum posted:You are spending money you don't have. You are budgeting all of your income towards normal expenses, but not your car loan, so when you make your car payment, YNAB sees you didn't budget for it, and is recognizing you are over spending. I get what you're saying, and you're right, but I've been doing what I've been doing by design; it just doesn't fit nicely into YNAB. For the last several months, I have been paying down interest accruing debt while also throwing some money into maxing out my HSA. I'll add around $500 in credit card debt each month but pay down $3,000 between the car/student loans, and another $500 into the HSA. So net worth has been climbing steadily. Once the promotional APR expires, it's back to $0 CC balance. I'd do a fresh start and make everything pre-YNAB debt, but I like the long term graphs showing my climb towards zero debt. 
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Jan 14, 2016 16:05
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epenthesis posted:If you're spending money on credit cards without paying them off, you should be budgeting a negative amount for them. You aren't giving them money, after all; it's the other way around right now. The bank has a limit of $3,000 a month that I can pay towards my car or else I'd pay more. It should be paid off by the end of February. At that point, I will start tackling my 6.8% student loans. I will have a $1,000 card to pay off mid-October, which I will do with the paycheck before it. The rest is mid-January 2017. That very well could be $4,000 by that point, but I will make a sensible plan a few months before to ensure it's taken care of. e: I've sounded really humble-braggy in BFC lately, and I don't mean to- just trying to navigate my way through my debt as best I can. I'm turning 32 in March and I moved back home last January, so that is the only reason I can afford to do this. Moneyball fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Jan 14, 2016 |
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Jan 14, 2016 16:52
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Ignoranus posted:I jumped onto nYNAB and then came to this thread and now I'm feeling antsy about my future. I think I'm going to stick with it for now, though, because otherwise I'll lose all of my inertia and founder outright. It's good to have that realization, as it (usually) helps force you to cut back a bit. As far as food/drink categories, I have 4: Groceries, Fast Food, Restaurants, and Bars/Alcohol Fast food and restaurants is really a tossup- but I mostly consider anything cheap on the go/lazy dinner at home to be fast food, and something a bit more expensive to be restaurant spending. The higher my fast food expense at the end of the month, the more I keep in mind I need to plan ahead. Restaurant spending is mostly a social thing which only happens a couple times a month, so that's not a big deal. I'm sort of using YNAB backwards at the moment. More of an expense tracker to monitor past behavior in an effort to control future behavior. I don't generally budget, but spend as little as is practical.
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Sep 29, 2016 15:17
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. It's worse at my new job because I can't just walk somewhere and get food, I have to get it delivered if I want to eat out and that adds up fast as all hell. I think I like this better than using Mint for tracking because it requires more direct involvement from me, but the automatic "import" function does some doofy stuff where it mis-labels payees and stuff.
" and "I ate at Zachary's because my fiance and I wanted to get some pizza together tonight". I suppose that's better handled through the "memo" field?
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100 HOGS AGREE posted:
You shut your mouth! Technically I don't need YNAB anymore because I really have cured myself of bad financial habits (well maybe 90% of them) but it's nice to track my progress from lots of debt to a positive net worth.
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Oct 6, 2016 18:39
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I usually wait for everything to clear, or I work it in (remove a pending transaction, reconcile, add it back). Though that's uncommon.
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Nov 7, 2016 15:56
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Anybody having issues with YNAB4 not syncing with the cloud? It's just been over the past couple days or so, but I haven't changed any settings.
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Dec 14, 2016 16:58
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I'm having a bad brain day. How do I handle a new student loan where some will go to tuition and what's left over will go be a "refund"? Taking just enough to pay tuition is not an option right now as I'm between jobs. I have an existing loan in an off-budget category, so I'd add the new loan to that, which would reflect the true amount, but my checking account total would be off. Do I then make a separate entry for X income and Y against my "college savings" budget category? I guess that's the way to go because being granted the loan and then having the loan applied are two separate transactions, but I've gotten to used to Income -> Budget to -> Log transaction Then again, future transfers to the loan would have to be categorized as student loan payments so that would be double counting...
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Oct 27, 2017 22:25
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I already have it installed so I didn't bother to download and install this, but maybe this link? https://classic.youneedabudget.com/download I assume you install it and after the trial, pay to register?
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Nov 14, 2017 05:39
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I'm using YNAB4. Against better judgement, I currently have my emergency fund in a mutual fund. Nothing too risky, but the balance goes up and down a bit daily. I'd like to occasionally account for the ups and downs. It's currently on-budget, as it's its own part of my cash management account that I'll be shuffling money in and out of. Adjusting for gains and losses is easy in off-budget accounts because you can just keep changing the amount of one transaction and it doesn't need a category or throw off the budgeted amount. But in on-budget, you can't get away with that. I'll be entering in transactions for dividends, since once I receive it, that's that, but I'd like to keep things balanced for changes in value. Should I just deal with it not being accurate, or move it off-budget?
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Jun 15, 2019 01:11
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I think I'd just create an off-budget account called Home or Home Value and a Mortgage off-balance account. For home value, you can just keep an adjusting entry that you delete and replace (or edit I guess) whenever you want to update the value. For mortgage, whenever you want to record interest, just add an outflow for that amount and since it's off budget, you don't have to account for it. When you make a payment, the money you transfer from an account to the mortgage account will have to be categorized, and it's up to you whether or not you want to break it up between principal and interest. So that should keep the mortgage account shrinking, while tracking the interest.
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Aug 29, 2019 16:00
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I just enter everything in manually. It has the dual benefit of making me more aware of what I'm spending as well as wanting to cut down on transactions to save some work.
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Sep 1, 2019 21:22
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