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Oh my god this thing is adorable and I want one even though there's no way I'd be able to drive it, what with being six feet tall and having size 14.5 feet. Also I live in Trucklandia, so my fatal compactions to miles driven ratio would be about 1:2. It's just so cute~
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Mar 2, 2014 01:16
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leica posted:I'd love to find whoever developed (or decided to use) the sticky tar poo poo they use to adhere vapor barriers and make them eat it. God I hate dealing with that poo poo. IronCastKnight posted:Oh my god this thing is adorable and I want one even though there's no way I'd be able to drive it, what with being six feet tall and having size 14.5 feet. Also I live in Trucklandia, so my fatal compactions to miles driven ratio would be about 1:2. On that note, the 12" steering wheel works nicely. Actually gives me enough leg clearance to position my foot for heel and toe as well, which is useful (I'm currently double-clutching a lot of my downshifts as well, the gearbox seems to appreciate it. I think changing the oil may make the shifts a little less recalcitrant), and I think if I can experiment with the wheel mounting how I want to, it should end up just right. Guy from the owners' club is going to check his shed of bits for me, see if he has a spare one. Cross-posting from the AIest Images thread:  COME BACK HERE AND TAKE WHAT'S COMING TO YOU! I'LL BITE YER LEGS OFF!
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Mar 2, 2014 02:15
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leica posted:I'd love to find whoever developed (or decided to use) the sticky tar poo poo they use to adhere vapor barriers and make them eat it. God I hate dealing with that poo poo. If I'm remembering correctly I saw it on my friend's '68 Cougar so it's been around a while too.
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Mar 2, 2014 02:36
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Picked this up today, factory workshop manual. Should make life a bit easier when I need to dismantle things.
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Mar 4, 2014 00:17
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Welp, beeen pretty busy in general, and much of my "car time" has involved helping a friend with his Audi, but I did finally get a chance to jack the Cappuccino uk and take a look underneath:    Actually, it is pretty good under there. Evidence of previous repairs, but seems solid enough, and there's still a crust of old Waxoyl lingering around. Great stuff. What's not so great is that the speedo is being a bit dicky about when it wants to work. One of the reasons for jacking it up was to see if the connection to the diff sensor was corroded, but it seems fine. Maybe a dash earth, though I'd have thought that would impact the other gauges too. I'm also getting an intermittent CEL, generally when bumbling around after giving it a bit of a thrash. The idle seems a little higher when it's like that, so I'm thinking a vacuum leak somewhere.
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Mar 19, 2014 19:53
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Did you look up the CEL code? The speedo in my MX-5 doesn't like to work when it's cold out and that causes the CEL to come on sometimes (speed sensor failure or something like this), but not regularly enough to be 100% correlated and thus obvious.
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Mar 19, 2014 21:39
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The problem is that the computer isn't sophisticated enough to hold codes, and yes, it's intermittent. What I'm going to do when I get a chance (hopefully this weekend) is to try and get it to trigger, then see what code(s) it outputs. I do have similar suspicions about the relationship to the speedo, but then again I've messed around with some of the vacuum lines under the bonnet also.
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Mar 19, 2014 22:11
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Just saw one of these with the fartiest fart can on it. It was one of those cases where the yobbishness makes it so, so much better. Especially in a small town in the north of Scotland.
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Apr 1, 2014 16:41
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Just a minor "keeping out of the archives" update - a few hundred miles shows that the CEL was almost certainly the speed sensor, as unplugging and cleaning that up would appear to have prevented its return.
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Apr 18, 2014 21:51
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You've probably jynxed yourself now, you realize that right? Every time I have said I finally licked my check engine light problem once and for all, the fucker came back within 50 miles. When I fix what I think it is, then give up and give it a good old fashioned whipping on back roads, it stays away 
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Apr 18, 2014 21:54
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Parking a Discovery on the drive is to random automotive faults what taking an unnamed redshirt with you is to a Star Trek away mission.
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Apr 18, 2014 22:31
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I haven't been able to do a whole lot to the Cappuccino of late, thanks to a combination of work, my mate's Audi making GBS threads the bed and needing an engine swap, and of course the welding on the infamous Discovery. The Suzuki has rewarded me for this by deciding that the window regulator can advance from "bit dicky" to "going down is possible if you're lucky, but no upwards motion whatsoever". At 11pm, when I was trying to go through a toll booth, of course. Temporary solution was to put some aluminium tape at the top of the driver's window to make a little tab I can pull on to help it up, but I had a bit of time today to pull the mechanism again, and this time I'm stripping the motor down. The failure mode is that the motor whirs away without doing a whole bunch, but there is some drive if you give it a helping hand, so it's either internal gearing worn to the very limit of usability, or a problem with a gear slipping on its shaft, something like that. There are a lot of components in cars which, if you look in the Haynes manual, just say "not user serviceable, replace as a unit" or similar. Other brands of aftermarket manual can be better, and factory manuals will probably give you as much information as you're likely to get, but even so, you'll hit a wall where they don't break things down any further. With that in mind, I'm going to go into a fair amount of detail with what I do here, because it may be a useful reference for people. Obviously, you're unlikely to have the exact same motor, but the principle should be universal. It may seem a bit  , but I know from experience what it's like to trawl forums looking for that one single picture to show you what to do with what you're stuck on, so I may as well just stick it up in case it comes in handy.Anyway, first thing I did was ziptie the mechanism in place, so it wouldn't go flopping around while I was removing it:  The motor assembly is attached to the mechanism with three screws, Torx T25 heads:   Leaving you with the motor itself. I'm pretty certain this is shared with other Suzukis at the very least, probably a whole host of Japanese cars, so replacing with another one if it's totally dead shouldn't be too difficult:  The metal cover for the internal gear drive is just clamped in place by deformed metal tabs, one either side, and easily levered off:     You can see internally there's a bit of muck and condensation, with evidence of some corrosion on metal parts, so that's not going to help matters much. At this point, it was obvious where the failure was - the outer plastic gear and the metal pinion that drives the rack on the mechanism could quite easily be turned independently of each other. It looks like it's a bonded metal/rubber sandwich designed to prevent shock loads damaging anything, and the two halves have mostly come adrift.  I probably don't need to remove the electric motor, but I decided I might as well do it to check the brushes and the worm gear:   Now to get the important bit apart. There's a circlip on the top which oviously holds the pinion shaft into the plastic gear:  Remember that corrosion I mentioned? Yeah, the circlip was rusted in place, and wasn't in the mood for being disturbed:   The same corrosion had obliterated any evidence of there beign two pieces there, so I gave it a clean up with a miniature wire brush and a bit of a dose of Plusgas. The wire brush "pen" was something I found at a car show trade stand, it's pretty useful for fiddly little things like this. I also ended up peeling the rubber off the upper face of the thing, it was pretty scraggy anyhow.    It was clearly all well seized together, so I used a clamp and sockets to free it off. With it being rubber, I figured there would be enough movement to go one way first to crack it off, then the other way to push it out. First off, compressing it in:   This took a fair amount of pressure, but it did give a good CRACK and move a millimeter or so, finally revealing the joint that had corroded closed. Up until that point, I hadn't quite been sure of my interpretation of how it should all come apart, but luckily I was right! All I had to do after that was put a bigger socket behind it to allow clearance for the pinion, and apply force the other way:     So here's the stack of components that comes out:  The metal plate on the left should be an integral part of the rubber one next to it, but has sheared all the way through. Unless any strokes of genius hit me, I'm going to bond it back together, most likely with the addition of a couple of screws to be sure. Ok, not the most exciting update ever, but as I said, the extra detail may be of use to someone for reference.
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May 10, 2014 20:49
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Great writeup. I'm always happy to find things like this for my own cars after hours of trawling. I must have hundreds of random forum pages saved for future reference for my cars. I had to do my regulator motors as well last year. You're lucky that you don't have the tensioned wire cable wrapped around the sprocket inside that gearbox - I swear those things have to be assembled by an octopus. I swear I have that exact Denso motor in my Toyota. I wouldn't be surprised - all the 90's Japanese cars seemed to use the same standard Denso parts. How do you rate the plusgas? I've never used it - normally I just got for WD-40. Recommended? Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 23:17 on May 10, 2014 |
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May 10, 2014 23:15
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mobby_6kl posted:Did you look up the CEL code? The speedo in my MX-5 doesn't like to work when it's cold out and that causes the CEL to come on sometimes (speed sensor failure or something like this), but not regularly enough to be 100% correlated and thus obvious. Yup, exact same thing happens to ours.
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May 11, 2014 02:22
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I did a quick GIS for you and a Suzuki Forenza has something that looks like the exact same power window motor.
Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 04:23 on May 11, 2014 |
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May 11, 2014 04:21
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:I had to do my regulator motors as well last year. You're lucky that you don't have the tensioned wire cable wrapped around the sprocket inside that gearbox - I swear those things have to be assembled by an octopus. They look like this, and allow you to both grip a cable and tension it against a stop or bracket with one hand, leaving the other hand free to tighten fasteners or make other adjustments:  ShittyPostmakerPro posted:How do you rate the plusgas? I've never used it - normally I just got for WD-40. Recommended? My primary reason for using it most of the time is largely that, unlike almost everything else, you can buy it in a metal tin with a dripper nozzle rather than an aerosol - you get way more actual product for your money, and you can apply it a lot more precisely without getting it everywhere. I'm not going to say it's the absolute best penetrating oil out there, but I've yet to find anything that seems noticeably better. Seat Safety Switch posted:I did a quick GIS for you and a Suzuki Forenza has something that looks like the exact same power window motor. But if a bit of fiddling about on a rainy afternoon can fix it for free rather than spending £20-£30 upwards for a good used one, you may as well have a crack at it. I take the same attitude with starter motors, for example, especially on 4x4s where the failure is because you got it packed with mud off-road. If I'd fitted a reconditioned one from a shop every time I'd encountered a dead one, rather than stripping and cleaning to revive them, I'd probably have spent a grand over the years, no joke.
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May 11, 2014 07:26
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For the record, the glue didn't hold up very long, so I had to remove the assembly again and instead drill through the stack and use a couple of screws to hold it all together. Should probably have done that the first time round, but there you go, worth a try. Took the car to the Doncaster car show today - good turnout as usual, but I think the racecourse venue isn't as good for the show as the school playing fields, and I rather suspect they'll be returning back over the road next year.   I'll post some other pictures from the show in the pictures thread. While cleaning the car, though, I did notice I'd made a boo-boo:  Obviously sent some sparks from grinding in the Cappo's direction when working on stuff on my driveway.  Will have to see if I can polish it out or something (it's behing the driver's seat, so I can't see it in the car, but it's a bit annoying).
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Jul 6, 2014 19:51
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I still love how tiny that thing is.
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Jul 6, 2014 20:03
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Still looking great. What's a "family enclosure?"
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Jul 6, 2014 20:12
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Still looking great. What's a "family enclosure?" Edit: Other photos have been posted here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3502478&pagenumber=302#post431832130 InitialDave fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Jul 6, 2014 |
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Jul 6, 2014 20:35
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Due to this thread I've been looking at Honda Beats. They exist, in yellow for not an unfeasibly stupid amount of cash and considering I don't need a car for work I'm still tempted. Sunshine doesn't help matters.
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Jul 7, 2014 09:48
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88h88 posted:Due to this thread I've been looking at Honda Beats. They exist, in yellow for not an unfeasibly stupid amount of cash and considering I don't need a car for work I'm still tempted. Sunshine doesn't help matters. I'm sitting here looking at cappuccinos on autotrader, alternately thinking "it's so cheap! I should get two, clap stupidly big engines in and race them!" and then "I'd hoy it into a tree first try, and I'd like to live."
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Jul 7, 2014 12:42
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I totally forgot these things were rwd. Awesome car, awesome thread.
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Jul 7, 2014 16:37
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Tiny wire brush and zip-tie pointer are both going into my tool cabinet soon.
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Jul 8, 2014 01:34
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For those wondering about my windscreen situation, the guy from the repair place came out today and... couldn't do it, because they'd not ordered the seal/weatherstrip, and sent him out to "see if he could do it anyway". Took one look at the 20-year-old rubber and said he didn't want to risk it. Ah well. Will see if they can source one, but at least I know they have the screen itself in stock.
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Oct 3, 2014 13:50
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