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Xenoborg
Mar 10, 2007

Also keep in mind that often what companies list as requirements are really for their dream candidate that doesn't exist. If you only meet say 3 out of 5 it doesn't necessarily mean you are out. You'll have to guess the relative importance yourself. If something requires an engineering degree and you don't have one, that's probably a non starter. But, if its asking for X years experience with some obscure industry specific program they probably don't get many entry level candidates with that.

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Xenoborg
Mar 10, 2007

Sounds good to me. As long as you have your emergency fund in place, and aren't trying to save up for a big down payment. You are effectively moving money from a taxable account to a tax advantaged one. I'm doing basically the same thing: Putting max into 401k, which would leave me not enough to save up to fund my IRA, and selling some taxable assets to do the IRA.

Xenoborg
Mar 10, 2007

Ugh, it may not be bad with money, but bussiness trips are bad with health. So much eating out. Turns out being stingy is probably the only reason I'm not 300 lbs.

Xenoborg
Mar 10, 2007

MJP posted:

I presently hold 739 shares of VTSAX. They were all purchased at one time.

I have $10,000 that I would like to use to buy more shares of VTSAX.

In about 5 years, I want to sell only the shares that were purchased with the $10,000. I'd like to leave the original 739 shares alone.

My understanding was that the specific ID (specid) of a stock could be sold, rather than first in, first out.

Do I need to do anything special now, when I'm buying the stock - e.g. jot down and record the specid somewhere? Or when it comes time to sell in 5 years, do I just tell Vanguard that I'm only selling whatever VTSAX shares were purchased in July 2017?

You can choose by individual purchase lots when you sell. If you click go to sell vanguard stocks, select a stock, hit edit cost basis, select individual, you can see the whole list. Its got the date, size, value, gain, ect so you dont need to record anything now.

Xenoborg
Mar 10, 2007

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

I think the question is why you would want to do that in this case.

It lets you control how much tax you pay now vs later is just about the only use to it.

Xenoborg
Mar 10, 2007

It dawned on me today that I should start using the envelope method to control my spending. I'm not very good at sticking to my budget and I'm frequently hundreds of dollars off it at the end of a month. I'm going to try it with my broad "Fun" budget and "Date" budget which are the worst offenders. Ive got new Ally accounts for each one that I'll have contribute the budgeted amount to and spend only from for those categories.

The joke is that I am a terrible miser and never want to spend money on anything. New game that I really want to play? Eh it will be 50% on a steam sale in 3 years. Going out with GF to some cultural event in town? Nah lets just stay in its cheaper.

Xenoborg
Mar 10, 2007

So I'm already at Ally and my savings accounts will only increase about 200 a month and may decrease if I have a big expense. Is there any benefit to signing up for this?

Xenoborg
Mar 10, 2007

Got an email that Beam is live. I probably signed up for it based on something here, but looking at it again... it sounds a bit weird.

https://meetbeam.com/

quote:

With cash deposited into Beam, you begin earning a guaranteed 1.7% Base Rate APY and can boost the APY to as high as 7% each day by collecting and using interest boosts (called a “Billie”). You can effortlessly collect a free Billie each day, and if you invite a friend to subscribe to the mailing list here on this website, you each earn 5 Billies that can be saved and used later. The more you invite, the more you earn. You heard it right. It’s just that simple.

Furthermore, when your friends begin to use Beam, you can permanently unlock higher Base Rates (e.g. up to a minimum of 3% a year!). All interests are accrued and paid daily. Download the app for more details or refer to Beam’s Terms.

Is there a consensus on this?

Xenoborg
Mar 10, 2007

OK sounds about what I thought. From some googling around, it promised to me more than that back when it was announced. All in all you can get about a 2.5% interest rate if you log in every day and do the things, but don't refer anyone. Something, but probably not worth the hassle unless you have 10 of ks in a savings account.

Xenoborg
Mar 10, 2007

H110Hawk posted:

One oddball thing, their month rolls over on the 5th (interest, statements, whatever) instead of the 1st.

Maybe its based on when you signed up? These happen on the 25th for me.

Xenoborg
Mar 10, 2007

Do you have the PDF/Paper copies of those two returns? The 2 pages of form 1040, which is the summary totaling sheet, should be able to show where the difference were. From there you can trace them deeper to the other pages if needed.

Xenoborg
Mar 10, 2007

HSA is generally second in line to max behind 401k matches, and ahead of regular 401k maxing. Any HSA money not used for medical expenses can be used as general retirement income with the exact same restrictions and tax impacts as regular 401k, so it is strictly better.

Xenoborg
Mar 10, 2007

The reports through credit karma and banks all have my Mom's gas card that I was added as an authorized user on when I was 15. So I show up as having 40 years of credit history despite being 35. I assume real rear end loan officers know better though.

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Xenoborg
Mar 10, 2007

67% Retirement
28% Investment
5% Cash

% of Cash could go lots of ways depending on your age and how much you have in retirement, X number of months of living expenses is the usual way to talk about it.

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