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If you're going to use PC duster as a replacement for R12, choose a can which has a 'contains difluoroethane' warning. Difluoroethane is R-152. Tetrafluoroethylene is also found in duster, and is R-134a (also a great refrigerant, but not what we are looking for in this application) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_refrigerants 'Dust off' brand contains R-152. It's also one of the more expensive brands. Damnit.
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Jun 12, 2016 02:07
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:If you're going to use PC duster as a replacement for R12, choose a can which has a 'contains difluoroethane' warning. Difluoroethane is R-152. Tetrafluoroethylene is also found in duster, and is R-134a (also a great refrigerant, but not what we are looking for in this application) Yeah, it'll be at the bottom of the Warning message.
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Jun 12, 2016 02:12
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I dunno what else may be leaking (nobody actually sells a loving UV flashlight around here) but the low side port has visible amounts of the yellow UV dye showing up after cleaning so that's my first stop. Where do you actually get ac-sized schraeder valve cores? and Will taking out the core long enough to go size-match it puke out the entire contents of my system?
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Jun 13, 2016 05:12
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Javid posted:I dunno what else may be leaking (nobody actually sells a loving UV flashlight around here) but the low side port has visible amounts of the yellow UV dye showing up after cleaning so that's my first stop. You can get sets on amazon for <$10. DO NOT REMOVE THE CORE WITHOUT RECOVERING THE REFRIGERANT Taking out the core on a pressurized system is an incredibly bad idea. Like, not only will you vent your entire refrigerant charge to atmosphere, but you'll also probably burn (refrigerant burn, like frostbite on steroids) the poo poo out of your hand. Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Jun 13, 2016 |
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Jun 13, 2016 23:50
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:If you're going to use PC duster as a replacement for R12, choose a can which has a 'contains difluoroethane' warning. Difluoroethane is R-152. Tetrafluoroethylene is also found in duster, and is R-134a (also a great refrigerant, but not what we are looking for in this application) I bought a 3x10oz can package at the local Big Lots for $12, and its good old R152A. Green cans, as I remember.
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Jun 14, 2016 00:15
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:If you're going to use PC duster as a replacement for R12, choose a can which has a 'contains difluoroethane' warning. Difluoroethane is R-152. Tetrafluoroethylene is also found in duster, and is R-134a (also a great refrigerant, but not what we are looking for in this application) I bought a 3x10oz can package at the local Big Lots for $12, and its good old R152A. Green cans, as I remember.
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Jun 14, 2016 00:15
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For those who need closure: the van got outta the shop for $380. The A/C system going to the rear had a massive leak and refrigerant was leaving the system as fast as it was getting put in. The guy capped off the back, charged up the system, and we were outta there; no other parts were broken. Blew cold the whole weekend and we were very happy indeed.
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Jun 14, 2016 18:43
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Anyone know how to bypass the pressure switch on a 1995 Lincoln Town Car? Looks like squirrels ate wiring on the pigtail and the car needs to drive to FL this weekend.
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Jun 17, 2016 18:34
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revmoo posted:Anyone know how to bypass the pressure switch on a 1995 Lincoln Town Car? Tape the ends together! 
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Jun 17, 2016 18:52
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scuz posted:Tape the ends together! Kind of figured that was all that was necessary just wanted to check there's not gonna be any surprises. Pep Boys was like  we can't get the pigtail or sensor before you leave town, sorry. I was like dude I'm pretty sure I can get that AC working enough for a road trip. I'll just tell her to get it fixed properly when she gets home.
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Jun 17, 2016 18:54
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You can't butt-splice the wires together as a temporary fix that won't risk damaging your ac?
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Jun 17, 2016 19:10
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EightBit posted:You can't butt-splice the wires together as a temporary fix that won't risk damaging your ac? If the pressures are good and the AC isn't leaking, its not going to do any harm.
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Jun 17, 2016 19:20
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CommieGIR posted:If the pressures are good and the AC isn't leaking, its not going to do any harm. Right. If there was a leak it could grenade your compressor, probably toss a belt, and strand you/overheat your engine, but in reality I think for a single road trip it's worth a roll of the dice.
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Jun 17, 2016 19:30
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CommieGIR posted:If the pressures are good and the AC isn't leaking, its not going to do any harm. If he freezes his coils, a very real possibility when traveling in the swamp-rear end-humid south, he could grenade things. There are lots of vehicles where the only temperature regulation is the blend doors and the low pressure cutoff is necessary to keep the thing from freezing up. If his switch were known bad it would be a different story, but as it stands, you're risking lots of damage when you can take five more minutes to splice the sensor in instead of just jumpering it.
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Jun 17, 2016 21:18
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revmoo posted:Anyone know how to bypass the pressure switch on a 1995 Lincoln Town Car? Hit the junkyard and grab a pigtail that looks like yours. Probably no more than $5, $0 if the counter guy thinks you aren't a shithead.
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Jun 17, 2016 21:45
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kastein posted:Hit the junkyard and grab a pigtail that looks like yours. Probably no more than $5, $0 if the counter guy thinks you aren't a shithead. I was able to repair the existing one by borrowing some leads off a PC Molex cable. New problem; compressor runs, pressures are good, AC lines are icy, car blows nothing but hot air. Blend door issue perhaps? Anything else it could be? e: Anyone know of a hack to temporarily move the door? E2: I'm just gonna bypass the heater core. That will work right? E3: Ok, I bypassed the heater core. TIL Oreilly's sells fittings that can do just that. Put some rubber caps on the exposed pipes and called it a day. AC works. I also discovered that Town Cars have a HVAC self-diagnostic routine. I ran it and it confirmed my blend door diagnosis. revmoo fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Jun 19, 2016 |
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Jun 18, 2016 20:49
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The little plastic Gates unions? Things are handy for stuff like that.
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Jun 19, 2016 23:20
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I have a 1993 Toyota pickup (4 cylinder 5-speed). I bought the truck last summer and the air conditioning has never worked. I intended to try to convert to the computer duster refrigerant, and went so far as to get the duster cans, a side-piercing can tap, ester oil, and a "universal" fitting conversion kit. I already own a gauge set with fittings for R-134a and a vacuum pump. I found the low side fitting right near the AC compressor. The universal kit had a fitting that fit right on it with no problems. The port on the high side is on a small diameter hard line that appears to run to the evaporator is of a size that does not correspond to any of the parts in the conversion kit. So the question is this: does anyone know where I can get a part to adapt an early-1990s Toyota R-12 high side fitting to a modern R-134a fitting OR can I evacuate and fill the system without bothering with the high side fitting? I know I will not have the ability to diagnose problems if I can't connect the gauges to the high side, so an adapter fitting would be great. The plan is to evacuate and see the system can hold a vacuum. If it can, I will remove the AC compressor, turn it upside down to remove most of ye olde R-12 compressor oil, replace the receiver/drier and any o-rings I come in contact with along the way, then fill with ester oil and computer duster gas. Any flaws here? When I press the Schrader valve on the high side fitting, it hisses a little, so the system can hold at least a little pressure.
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Jun 22, 2016 14:21
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PBCrunch posted:I have a 1993 Toyota pickup (4 cylinder 5-speed). I bought the truck last summer and the air conditioning has never worked. I intended to try to convert to the computer duster refrigerant, and went so far as to get the duster cans, a side-piercing can tap, ester oil, and a "universal" fitting conversion kit. I already own a gauge set with fittings for R-134a and a vacuum pump. The High side fitting is more for diagnostics while filling/purging the system. You should be okay with just filling it from the low side IF you know that the system was good prior to this. Vacuuming it down will help you figure out if the system is going to hold pressure, but otherwise your plan sounds great.
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Jun 22, 2016 14:38
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PBCrunch posted:The plan is to evacuate and see the system can hold a vacuum. If it can, I will remove the AC compressor, turn it upside down to remove most of ye olde R-12 compressor oil, replace the receiver/drier and any o-rings I come in contact with along the way, then fill with ester oil and computer duster gas. Any flaws here? Yeah, you're only removing about 1/3 of the old oil unless you replace or flush the condenser and evap. You'll want to flush the lines as well. If they aren't parallel flow units you should be able to flush the whole thing.
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Jun 22, 2016 16:41
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Motronic posted:Yeah, you're only removing about 1/3 of the old oil unless you replace or flush the condenser and evap. You'll want to flush the lines as well. Will ester oil mix OK with whatever oil was with the R-12 from 1993?
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Jun 22, 2016 22:07
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PBCrunch posted:Will ester oil mix OK with whatever oil was with the R-12 from 1993? It will mix to a degree, enough to keep the compressor happy, but not completely mix.
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Jun 22, 2016 22:39
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I have 9 short cans of r134a. Anybody in Phoenix need a top up? Free.
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Jun 22, 2016 23:07
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2005 Cadillac Escalade with main and rear AC units. Unknown history. Tepid A/C, but functional. Put gauges on it, static readings were where they should be. High side had a bit of oil out upon connection, so I'm pretty sure there's plenty of oil. 82-84*F Ambient. I am using an old set of gauges without R134a markings, just PSI and R12, but it started out low, ~30psi low/150psi high. Took two cans of R134a and gauges are at 45psi low / 200psi high. Nice and cold inside now. From the OP, it looks like everything is in line, anything else I should be concerned with? meatpimp fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Jun 23, 2016 |
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Jun 23, 2016 21:04
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:From the OP, it looks like everything is in line, anything else I should be concerned with? Newp. Rear A/C has HUGE barrier hoses so more space to leak out of faster. You done good.
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Jun 24, 2016 02:08
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I have drawn a vacuum on my Toyota's AC system. When I open the valve on the high side fitting, the gauge goes back to zero, so there is "continuity" from the high side to the low side of the system. This system was presumably full of R-12. Will it ruin the compressor If I just fill it with computer duster without doing anything with the oil for a test run (a week)?
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Jun 25, 2016 17:40
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PBCrunch posted:I have drawn a vacuum on my Toyota's AC system. When I open the valve on the high side fitting, the gauge goes back to zero, so there is "continuity" from the high side to the low side of the system. This system was presumably full of R-12. Will it ruin the compressor If I just fill it with computer duster without doing anything with the oil for a test run (a week)? i'm not clear on what's happening here. This is the one where you don't have a high side adapter, right? If so, I'm assuming that the high side of your gauges is connected to nothing. So yeah, opening the high side valve is going to do exactly that. Not knowing how much oil is in your system I don't think anyone could say whether you're going to damage it or not. If it were me, I'd flush it or at the very least put in close to the correct system volume of ester. I'd rather have somewhat too much rather than too little.
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Jun 26, 2016 15:57
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I tested the high side fitting just to make sure my vacuum pump was evacuating the high side and the low side of the system. I pulled the compressor this morning. I removed the little manifold piece on the top and spun the compressor snout around. It made some gurgling "compression" sounds, but NOTHING came out. I have no idea how long ago this system last worked. I really don't want to take the whole system apart and replace the evaporator in the event of catastrophic compressor failure, so I just ordered a new condenser and compressor (with clutch) to go with the receiver/drier I was already planning on installing. So I guess for now I tie some plastic bags around the hose ends and wait for parts to show up. I will drain any oil in the new compressor and refill with the same amount of ester oil. I will also add the amount of oil specified in the literature for condenser and receiver/drier replacement. The system holds vacuum, but I elected to replace the condenser because it has oil grime on some of the fins, implying a leak at some point.
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Jun 26, 2016 16:21
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PBCrunch posted:I tested the high side fitting just to make sure my vacuum pump was evacuating the high side and the low side of the system. So if both your high and low sides on the manifold gauge are actually connected to the system you should be vacing with them both open. No oil in the compressor isn't a good sign. I really suggest you flush this thing and put in the correct amount of oil for the system (like what the manufacturer of the CAR said for the system, not individual parts assuming this is a stock setup). About 1/3 of it will go into the compressor (as you mentioned, after you've drained it) and the rest can be injected into the system. It's super easy when you're under vacuum. In fact, if you don't have the right tools for the job you could even just keep filling one of your gauge hoses, opening up that side (preferably high) and let it draw in. Repeat until it's all in there or you run out of vacuum (in which case you vac some more from the opposite side).
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Jun 26, 2016 16:53
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I think he's saying he's vacuuming through the low side fitting only, and popped the high side Schrader a few times to verify that the vacuum is making it to the high side, ie system not clogged. I did a charge on my buddy's 198x Toyota pickup, so I know exactly what he means about the high fitting being a dick. Iirc it's directly on the compressor before the actual separate discharge line, and there's just enough space to get a hose with the correct fitting on; with an adapter installed the hose fitting interferes with the compressor body or a fitting or something. When I did that job we were able to find a 90 degree fitting extension at oreilllys that let us put my gauge set on, but ymmv for finding something like that.
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Jun 26, 2016 19:14
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The high side fitting is up by the firewall, but my kit didn't come with any adapter fittings that fit. So I am vacuuming from the low side only. I took off a couple of hard lines and hoses along with the condenser, receiver/drier, and compressor. There were no signs of contamination in any of the hoses. I took the little manifold cover off the compressor, and it was totally clean inside. The compressor spun without any scratching. I dug through a service manual and found this information about oil: System capacity: 4.1 oz (121cc) Amount to add when changing: Receiver/drier: 20cc Condenser: 40-50cc Evaporator: 40-50cc Compresor: looked all over, not listed? So should I just add 120cc of ester oil and hope there isn't much oil in the evaporator?
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Jun 26, 2016 21:06
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PBCrunch posted:So should I just add 120cc of ester oil and hope there isn't much oil in the evaporator? If you're not gonna flush it, yeah....that's what I'd do. Too much oil (to a point....you can't go nuts or you'll slug the compressor) only results in slightly lowered cooling system performance (less refrigerant) and I find that to be a lot better than eating compressors.
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Jun 26, 2016 21:18
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That being said, flushing it out is probably the best idea because guess what, that old oil isn't going anywhere. Is it compatible with the new refrigerant/new oil? Maybe, maybe not, but why leave it in? It looks like my R12 to R152a conversion on the Roadmaster will happen shortly (assuming I can still find all the stuff I bought for that project) because summer is now in full swing here and we spent yesterday driving around in it, sweating. Only two years with the Forester's AC working and I'm never going back.
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Jun 27, 2016 20:50
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My girlfriends 2008 honda has had intermittent ac for a couples months now and took it in to a shop to get an analysis. They told her the clutch wasnt engaging and want to replace the compressor, condensor, and expansion valve. I know you need to replace that stuff if you end up opening the system, but would it be worth it to buy an ebay clutch and just replacing that before dropping a grand on the repairs?
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Jun 27, 2016 22:35
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Depending on whether the clutch can be replaced without disassembling the compressor, and whether the condensor looked lovely anyways, sure.
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Jun 27, 2016 22:43
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The real risk there is why is the compressor intermittently engaging. If the clutch or clutch coil is the reason, then sure, replace those parts and don't gently caress with anything else. If it's intermittent because it's low on refrigerant, then you need to diagnose where the leak is, evacuate the system, replace whatever part is failed (plus a new drier), then reoil / recharge as needed.
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Jun 27, 2016 23:19
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The shop said it was 6 ounces low, topped it off and they still couldn't get the clutch to engage. Is just replacing the clutch rare? I can't really find the part anywhere but ebay and the dealer.
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Jun 28, 2016 00:57
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Motronic posted:Newp. Rear A/C has HUGE barrier hoses so more space to leak out of faster. You done good. Had my first GM problem last night. 89*F outside and running the AC front and rear in the truck. No problems on the way out. On the way back, the rear was blowing nothing but blowtorch hot... no setting changes made a bit of difference. At first I thought something with the AC was hosed up, since I was just loving with it. But, as I did a quick bit of googling, looks like these have GM blend door issues, too. What was the fix (probably temporary)? Turn the ignition off, then on again... bingo, cold air in the back again. Makes me really start thinking about getting a Tech2 clone to troubleshoot that poo poo.
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Jun 28, 2016 11:40
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meatpimp posted:...looks like these have GM blend door issues, too. My '08 Corvette has (probable) blend door issues. It has dual zone AC, and the drivers side (of course it's the drivers side) blows noticeably warmer than the passenger's side. It's especially apparent if the car has been out in the sun, or is otherwise heat soaked. The driver side will take FOREVER to cool off, while the pax side gets cold almost immediately. Taking the dash halfway apart to troubleshoot and fix the issue, though? 
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Jun 28, 2016 13:17
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Transferred the AC from one Audi to another, because Georgia summers suck. Unfortunately, the hard line cracked. I ghetto'ed up a solution that worked, but then it blew out the fairly low pressure hose I used. So I sleeved it with a copper pipe and hose over the top. Hopefully that'll hold it till I can get a new hard line built. E: Apparently NAPA or Autozone have inline metal splice kits. I'll go check that out later. CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Jun 28, 2016 |
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Jun 28, 2016 15:07
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