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Goodtime Pancreas posted:The shop said it was 6 ounces low, topped it off and they still couldn't get the clutch to engage. Is just replacing the clutch rare? I can't really find the part anywhere but ebay and the dealer. There's special tools you need to replace the AC clutch with, and most shops won't have them, and generally the clutch is considered a 'Lifetime Item' for the compressor, where replacing the clutch means just replacing the entire compressor. Are they sure the high pressure switch isn't faulty?
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Jun 28, 2016 15:46
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What special tools? From what i am seeing online it is just a nut in the middle of the pulley and then a snap ring holding the pulley on and another holding the clutch on. And im not sure if they checked that or not, i haven't had time to take a long look at it myself because I'm in the middle of a captain class.
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Jun 28, 2016 19:31
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Goodtime Pancreas posted:What special tools? From what i am seeing online it is just a nut in the middle of the pulley and then a snap ring holding the pulley on and another holding the clutch on. And im not sure if they checked that or not, i haven't had time to take a long look at it myself because I'm in the middle of a captain class. There's a tool for holding the pulley while you remove the nut. Its near impossible to do otherwise.
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Jun 28, 2016 19:39
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You can get the tool from Autozone if you need it. On both my WJ and my Ranger I was able to get the job done without it, except for tightening it up on the Ranger.
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Jun 29, 2016 02:50
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CommieGIR posted:There's a tool for holding the pulley while you remove the nut. Its near impossible to do otherwise. Wrap the pulley tightly with some thin rope, secure the end to a mounting hole, and use an impact gun. Either push the centre against the pulley or energise the clutch to hold them together.
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Jun 29, 2016 15:03
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Wrap the pulley tightly with some thin rope, secure the end to a mounting hole, and use an impact gun. Either push the centre against the pulley or energise the clutch to hold them together. Without the clutch engaged, the pulley is free spinning. And if the clutch is bad (like he says) its not going to engage or won't engage enough for an impact gun. Plus, many cars don't give you enough clearance to get an impact gun in front of the compressor. But hey, what have you got to loose.
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Jun 29, 2016 15:23
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CommieGIR posted:
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Jun 29, 2016 16:01
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EVERYWHERE 
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Had to repair my AC hard line on my black 4k Quattro:  AC now shoots ice cubes out the vents. CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Jun 30, 2016 |
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Jun 30, 2016 16:11
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Just a follow up report: Drove into the office this morning, repair held great.
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Jul 1, 2016 14:41
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So I just swapped a junkyard AC compressor onto my 1999 Suburban yesterday and found out that it leaks out of the body like the original one did. I'm debating on resealing it since the kit is $16 from autozone. Otherwise a reman one is $115-$250 depending where you get it. Anyone have experience trying to reseal a compressor? I have the time but don't want to waste it if it's probably going to leak.
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Jul 3, 2016 22:21
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NinjaTech posted:So I just swapped a junkyard AC compressor onto my 1999 Suburban yesterday and found out that it leaks out of the body like the original one did. I'm debating on resealing it since the kit is $16 from autozone. Otherwise a reman one is $115-$250 depending where you get it. Anyone have experience trying to reseal a compressor? I have the time but don't want to waste it if it's probably going to leak. Yes. I rebuilt my compressor on the Jetta. Pretty simple: Just keep it clean as you disassemble it and catalog the parts. Chances are, there is a rebuild kit available for your compressor that comes with new O-rings and new seals. Pick up some zip-lock bags and catalog and keep the assembly clean.
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Jul 4, 2016 02:17
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You will need a shaft seal installer-cone-guide-thingy to prevent the splined input shaft from metaphorically loving your new shaft seal.
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Jul 4, 2016 23:23
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This might be a good place to ask. I got a 1988 Ford F150 that I did a R134a conversion on 4 years ago. The temps are okay, nothing impressive, but that's expected for R134a conversions anyway. However, my question is about the blower motor. It's pretty wimpy, even with a new replacement on full blast. Is there anything I could do to get more umph out of it? It kind of feels like a little kid blowing bubbles currently. And don't get me started on the range of the driver side vents. They barely come up to my neck at their highest. I kind of skimmed the OP, but would R152a be a better option for a R12 conversion?
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Jul 5, 2016 22:29
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From looking at the charts of refrigerant properties, I think either one will work, really. Pressures and temps are all "pretty close" but then again I'm not an AC professional.code:R12 recommended compressor oil: mineral oil R134a recommended compressor oil: PAG oil (46, 100, or 150 is the viscosity and you should use whatever the compressor manufacturer specifies) - NOT compatible with mineral oils R152a recommended compressor oil, per internet forums: ester oil, which is allegedly compatible with both residual mineral oils and residual PAG oils. First step: find out how many generations of rodents have made nests in your HEVAC plenums. The fan might be fine, but trying to blow air through a four inch thick stack of pine needles. And you don't want your truck burning down like Sandbagger's did. e: added refrigerant and oil info kastein fucked around with this message at 17:39 on Jul 6, 2016 |
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Jul 6, 2016 17:24
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I know that CSB's bricknose had a packrat nest in its blower motor so it's definitely a good idea to pull that apart first if you can.
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Jul 6, 2016 17:31
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I'd assume they would have cleared the blower box while replacing the motor (which I assume involves removing the motor/fan assembly), but it could be something further up/downstream. Or maybe it's just a weaksauce design by modern standards.
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Jul 6, 2016 18:49
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If just the blades of the squirrel-cage are dirty it will move a lot less air than it should.
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Jul 6, 2016 21:02
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Also, does the blower motor run on a relay-fed circuit at full speed? My C10's original wiring ran the blower full load through the fan speed switch, which surprise, leads to melty switches and connectors. It ran noticeably harder when I set it up with a relay instead, though I was lazy and removed any ability to slow it down in the process.
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Jul 6, 2016 21:06
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What about adding a load resistor?
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Jul 6, 2016 21:11
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If that's directed at me - the airflow at speeds below full is so dismal that if I want it turned down, I'm turning it off anyway.
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Jul 6, 2016 21:17
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meatpimp posted:House A/C chat -- I finally got around to replacing my contactor and capacitor on the outdoor unit. Both were obviously original, about 16 years old. Can replacing those two things make it run smoother and quieter / start up smoother? It seems like it does. It's been running perfectly since then, until last night. It is starting and running fine, but the sound has changed. Instead of kicking on with a "hmmmmmmmmmmmmm," it's now kicking on with a "HMMMMMMmmmmmmmmm." The startup noise is about twice as loud, but only for the first second or two. Should I look into this, or see how it develops? Could the starting cap that I just replaced last year be bad already?
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Jul 15, 2016 11:23
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Has it been hotter/cooler recently? Pressure in the system (or parts of the system with multiple valves) different? Could it be corrosion on plugs causing a higher resistance, slowing startup? Wind recently that could knock things about? Pump/compressor finally taking a poo poo?
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Jul 15, 2016 11:31
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Geirskogul posted:Has it been hotter/cooler recently? Pressure in the system (or parts of the system with multiple valves) different? Could it be corrosion on plugs causing a higher resistance, slowing startup? Wind recently that could knock things about? Pump/compressor finally taking a poo poo? Nothing in particular changed. It's been running more, since it's July, but nothing out of the ordinary. I have no idea about the pressures, but after the louder second or so of startup, everything sounds fine. It runs nice and quiet... Edit: Man, for only a year old, the capacitor looks like poo poo. This was a Dayton, supposed to be the best... but this cannot be the best.  Specs on the cap: 2MD4U 460-552MFD, 110-125V... should I just buy the same Dayton, or is there something else I should be looking at? meatpimp fucked around with this message at 12:37 on Jul 15, 2016 |
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Jul 15, 2016 12:09
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FYI you can test those with a multimeter.
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Jul 15, 2016 14:22
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That looks like rust. Rust from steel. Something has been dripping rusty water on top of that thing and it's been drying out there. Either that or the top is steel while the sides are aluminum which seems odd. The inside of the capacitor may or may not be perfectly fine, or completely trashed. They're sealed units and outside condition does not correlate to inside condition.
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Jul 15, 2016 14:33
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revmoo posted:FYI you can test those with a multimeter. Yeah, but  . If it could be the cause, I'd just throw another $20 cap on it.I checked all the connections and wiggled them a bit to make sure there weren't any corrosion issues. Seems to be starting fine today, it only did it a couple times last night, something to watch I guess. kastein posted:That looks like rust. Rust from steel. Something has been dripping rusty water on top of that thing and it's been drying out there. Either that or the top is steel while the sides are aluminum which seems odd.  Must be the top is steel? There's nothing above the cap, the screw you can see above is positioned directly between the cap and contactor (and no water spots below that would indicate the screw has been dripping). It does seem odd for that much corrosion when everything else in there is dry and fine. 
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Jul 15, 2016 14:44
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Maybe condensation is forming on the underside of that top cover, dripping down the bolt, the droplet collects rust from the tip of the bolt and then drips onto the capacitor? I can't quite tell if it's a straight shot from the bolt to the cap.
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Jul 15, 2016 14:56
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kastein posted:Maybe condensation is forming on the underside of that top cover, dripping down the bolt, the droplet collects rust from the tip of the bolt and then drips onto the capacitor? I can't quite tell if it's a straight shot from the bolt to the cap. Definitely not dripping from the bolt onto the capacitor, the bolt would drip between the cap and the contactor. I must have explained it poorly.
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Jul 15, 2016 14:58
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Vibration while it's running could cause that drip to hit the cap instead of falling between everything. Same for wind, if that panel had any gaps. How long had it been off when you noticed it starting a bit louder? Residual high side pressure could cause that if it'd only been a couple of minutes.
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Jul 16, 2016 01:28
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It's totally possible for the cap to go bad within a year. For the most part they're not all that long lived. FYI from experience in the field AMRAD or Titan are the best capacitors.
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Jul 16, 2016 01:29
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ExplodingSims posted:It's totally possible for the cap to go bad within a year. For the most part they're not all that long lived. I'll keep that in mind next time I replace it... which will hopefully be not until next year. I removed and reconnected the push-on connectors and it seems to be working fine now. Best guess is that at least one of the connections was corrosion-inhibited. Hopefully the cap makes it through this year and I'll just plan on replacing with a higher grade next year.
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Jul 16, 2016 18:58
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2001 Chrysler Sebring: A/C works fine. Shut car off and restart, and it throws heat. Repeat at random. When it works it works great, so it doesn't seem to be low on refrigerant. Any ideas?
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Jul 20, 2016 14:50
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My brother sent me an email at 12:30AM this morning saying no a/c in his house. We troubleshot this morning -- condenser fan wouldn't start on its own, but it would if he gave the blades a push. Capacitor. I'm a couple hours away, so he called around... the big places were quoting $250 just for a capacitor replacement. That's not free market, that's just taking advantage of the market. He found someone to come out this afternoon that would replace the capacitor for $75-100, which is perfectly reasonable for a part that retails for $20 and a half hour of time.
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Jul 20, 2016 15:02
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Dagen H posted:2001 Chrysler Sebring: A/C works fine. Shut car off and restart, and it throws heat. Repeat at random. When it works it works great, so it doesn't seem to be low on refrigerant. Any ideas? It's a Chrysler?  So it's not just blowing uncooled air, it's going full on into heater? It's got to be controls at some level - electrical or mechanical.
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Jul 20, 2016 15:29
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IOwnCalculus posted:It's a Chrysler? Welp IOwnCalculus posted:So it's not just blowing uncooled air, it's going full on into heater? It's got to be controls at some level - electrical or mechanical. That's what she's telling me (mother-in-law's car, info from my wife). Guess I need to look at the control panel, then.
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Jul 20, 2016 15:35
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meatpimp posted:My brother sent me an email at 12:30AM this morning saying no a/c in his house. We troubleshot this morning -- condenser fan wouldn't start on its own, but it would if he gave the blades a push. Capacitor. I'm a couple hours away, so he called around... the big places were quoting $250 just for a capacitor replacement. That's not free market, that's just taking advantage of the market. He found someone to come out this afternoon that would replace the capacitor for $75-100, which is perfectly reasonable for a part that retails for $20 and a half hour of time. My condenser cap blew last week and it was $13.01 for the more expensive one....you've gone this far just pop a new one in it?
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Jul 20, 2016 17:07
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Dagen H posted:2001 Chrysler Sebring: A/C works fine. Shut car off and restart, and it throws heat. Repeat at random. When it works it works great, so it doesn't seem to be low on refrigerant. Any ideas? Blend door.
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Jul 20, 2016 23:56
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I'll check it out, thanks.
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Jul 21, 2016 00:14
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angryrobots posted:My condenser cap blew last week and it was $13.01 for the more expensive one....you've gone this far just pop a new one in it? I would have, if I was close. He found someone on angies list and got the cap replaced for $115. That's not unreasonable, plus, it's working now.
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Jul 21, 2016 00:25
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revmoo posted:Blend door. I was thinking this, but if it is a failure of the actual door like my WJ had, it seems like it should just fail in one spot and not switch between the two. So I'd lean towards the actuator or the controls for the door.
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Jul 21, 2016 00:36
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