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The A/C in my 2010 Ford F-150 is not getting cold enough. I spent some time testing it yesterday and found the following: Static test. Ambient temp:73F Low side: 81PSI High side: 81 PSI Dynamic test later in the day. Ambient temp: 88F Low side pressure: 30 PSI High side ressure: 225 PSI Temp at center console vent: 70F A/C was set to max, fan high, recirculate, temp control set all the way down to 60. Compressor is turning and the evap inlet line is getting cold. Plenty of air flow out of the vents. This is my first time attempting to work on A/C but from my limited understanding of things the pressures and temperatures above seem about right so it seems like probably it is not a refrigerant level issue. Suggestions as to what to try next? Thanks.
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Jun 2, 2016 21:17
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jaxercracks posted:The A/C in my 2010 Ford F-150 is not getting cold enough. I spent some time testing it yesterday and found the following: How's your condenser fan doing? It may be weak / undersized to begin with. High side numbers would be a lot higher if it was fully failed, in my limited experience with a fan failure (one time). I've used a bigass metal floor fan as a substitute for a good condenser fan (friend wanted to charge the system now and install the fan when it came in, rather than install it and then come back to get it charged)
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Jun 2, 2016 21:54
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I'm assuming that the compressor wasn't just rapidly switching on/off, correct? I'd be inclined to look at a HVAC control problem rather than a refrigerant problem - blend door / actuator failure or something along those lines.
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Jun 2, 2016 21:55
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RIP Paul Walker posted:How's your condenser fan doing? It may be weak / undersized to begin with. High side numbers would be a lot higher if it was fully failed, in my limited experience with a fan failure (one time). Forgot to say that this afternoon I went out and washed the condenser thoroughly and checked the fans. This vehicle has dual electric fans and they seem to be good. Both turning. and seem to be putting out plenty of air. IOwnCalculus posted:I'm assuming that the compressor wasn't just rapidly switching on/off, correct? I am starting to think you are right and this is a control problem. Cursory internet search indicates that blend door issues are not uncommon on these vehicles. Bleh, I am not enthusiastic about taking the dash out.
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Jun 2, 2016 22:23
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CommieGIR posted:Hose guy screwed me, so I said screw it and finished the AC rebuild with the stock hoses. Had to lose the intake piping and filter for now, but added a 90 degree elbow to redirect turbo inlet to the hood so it'll avoid pulling in road debris. Still a tight fight with the suction hose, but it'll do until I can get the hose modified.
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Jun 4, 2016 20:36
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So weird issue: I get good high and low pressured, until the radiator fan turns on, then pressured drop. If I disable the fan, pressures stay good. What is causing this? EDIT: Nevermind, its perfectly normal. Just have to figure out why its a total system pressure drop so I can keep the evaporator cooler.
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Jun 4, 2016 23:59
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Your getting a pressure drop because your raising the subcooling with the additional fan. Better cooling = more liquid flow = lower pressures.
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Jun 5, 2016 00:16
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ExplodingSims posted:Your getting a pressure drop because your raising the subcooling with the additional fan. Yeah, its an R-12 system running R-152. I also discovered part of the reason I'm not getting the cool air is the heater valve is stuck partway open. Evaporator is getting SUPER cold, but has to go over the heater core first, which is somewhat warm. Gonna have to replace it tomorrow.
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Jun 5, 2016 01:33
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So my compressor died on my 08 Mazda 3. The shop wanted 1400 to replace it, the drier and the expansion valve (hah, no.) I was planning on getting a shop to discharge the system, then putting all the parts in and then taking it back to a shop to have it recharged. Here is my question, when should I have the flush done? I keep reading that when the compressor goes it tends to shed metal shavings all over the system and it needs to be flushed before use. Can I have it done when I discharge the system or should I do that when I take it to have it recharged again?
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Jun 6, 2016 05:29
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The band is taking our 1995 Econoline into the wild heat jungle of Missouri this weekend and I'll be fixing the A/C come hell or high water. When we turn the A/C on in the cabin, I don't hear a loss of revs, and when I was having someone turn the A/C on and off in the cabin, the clutch on the compressor wasn't kicking in. Is the clutch something I can replace separately from the whole compressor, thereby saving us the money on a recharge/new accumulator/compressor?
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Jun 7, 2016 22:43
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scuz posted:The band is taking our 1995 Econoline into the wild heat jungle of Missouri this weekend and I'll be fixing the A/C come hell or high water. When we turn the A/C on in the cabin, I don't hear a loss of revs, and when I was having someone turn the A/C on and off in the cabin, the clutch on the compressor wasn't kicking in. Is the clutch something I can replace separately from the whole compressor, thereby saving us the money on a recharge/new accumulator/compressor? What is your system pressures like? If its low, the compressor won't engage because the pressure switch will prevent it.
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Jun 7, 2016 22:49
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CommieGIR posted:What is your system pressures like? If its low, the compressor won't engage because the pressure switch will prevent it. Eep, I guess I'll start there before firing the ol' parts cannon  Thanks for the pointer!
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Jun 7, 2016 23:23
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CommieGIR posted:What is your system pressures like? If its low, the compressor won't engage because the pressure switch will prevent it. Even though this knowledge could conceivably be inferred from the OP, it should have some kind of explicit mention for people that are troubleshooting the electrical side of automotive a/c.
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Jun 8, 2016 00:27
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Mobius1B7R posted:So my compressor died on my 08 Mazda 3. The shop wanted 1400 to replace it, the drier and the expansion valve (hah, no.) I was planning on getting a shop to discharge the system, then putting all the parts in and then taking it back to a shop to have it recharged. Here is my question, when should I have the flush done? I keep reading that when the compressor goes it tends to shed metal shavings all over the system and it needs to be flushed before use. Can I have it done when I discharge the system or should I do that when I take it to have it recharged again? You should open the system and see if it needs to be done. Also, find a more reasonable shop and just have them do the whole thing. Piecing poo poo in like that is a recipe for disaster. You'll put it together, they'll try to vac it and it will leak. Or it will vac they'll fill it and it will be empty in a week. Now who's fault is it? They aren't going to take responsibility. If you're going to do the job find the tools and do it all the way. The only expensive part is the recovery machine, so just have them do that. The rest you can probably get from a parts store on a loan a tool program.
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Jun 8, 2016 00:37
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EightBit posted:Even though this knowledge could conceivably be inferred from the OP, it should have some kind of explicit mention for people that are troubleshooting the electrical side of automotive a/c. Mobius1B7R posted:So my compressor died on my 08 Mazda 3. The shop wanted 1400 to replace it, the drier and the expansion valve (hah, no.) I was planning on getting a shop to discharge the system, then putting all the parts in and then taking it back to a shop to have it recharged. Here is my question, when should I have the flush done? I keep reading that when the compressor goes it tends to shed metal shavings all over the system and it needs to be flushed before use. Can I have it done when I discharge the system or should I do that when I take it to have it recharged again? scuz fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Jun 8, 2016 |
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Jun 8, 2016 17:39
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scuz posted:I read over the OP a few more times just now and yeah, there's a bit in there about it. I'm hoping that since HarborFreight has the R134a manifold gauge set on sale ($55) that I can get this diagnosed this evening cuz I ain't driving through Missouri without A/C. So if the pressure on both sides is low, I should start adding refrigerant and if the compressor doesn't kick on once the pressure is at the recommended level, I should stop and curse the world, right? If you get enough pressure, it should trigger, if it does not, next trying 'bypassing' the pressure switch. If that doesn't kick on the compressor, then yeah, you are probably down to the compressor clutch.
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Jun 8, 2016 17:53
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CommieGIR posted:If you get enough pressure, it should trigger, if it does not, next trying 'bypassing' the pressure switch. If that doesn't kick on the compressor, then yeah, you are probably down to the compressor clutch.
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Jun 8, 2016 17:58
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scuz posted:Get it up to pressure and like, idk, put a paper clip between some stuff? Sure. Or a jumper wire. But just momentarily to ensure the clutch is kicking on.
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Jun 8, 2016 18:15
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Welp, looks like I'm dealing with R12 here so to the shop it goes. Got a shiny new R-134a manifold gauge though! It'll come in handy for the Golf's fix, at least.
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Jun 9, 2016 01:39
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scuz posted:Welp, looks like I'm dealing with R12 here so to the shop it goes. Got a shiny new R-134a manifold gauge though! It'll come in handy for the Golf's fix, at least. No big deal. R-152 to the rescue.
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Jun 9, 2016 04:09
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CommieGIR posted:No big deal. R-152 to the rescue.  I have no idea what I'm doing.
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Jun 9, 2016 16:17
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To jump it you'd unplug the pressure switch and jump the 2 pins on the harness side of the connector. R152 is more or less a drop-in replacement for R12 in terms of performance, don't even have to change the oil out iirc like you do when converting to R134a. It's also sold as keyboard duster for like 12 bucks a can, as opposed to new old stock R12 which can run triple that. You can get r12 to r134a adapters that screw on to your current fittings and let you use your current gauges, if that's the issue. That's what I did for my Blazer and it worked a treat.
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Jun 9, 2016 16:22
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scuz posted:I'm seriously green here, how does this help me? Where could I find such things? Also when I tried to jumper the high side plug, nothing kicked on, but I don't know whether I was jumpering it correctly. I'm just gonna bring it in I regularly fill R-12 systems with R-152 from PC Duster cans. Won't get as cold as R-12 but it gets pretty damned chilly.
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Jun 9, 2016 16:23
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Enourmo posted:To jump it you'd unplug the pressure switch and jump the 2 pins on the harness side of the connector. CommieGIR posted:I regularly fill R-12 systems with R-152 from PC Duster cans. Won't get as cold as R-12 but it gets pretty damned chilly. As for the adapters, is that all that it takes for the conversion to R-134a? I wouldn't need a new compressor or anything? Cuz poo poo, I could take the van to like a Valvoline and have them evacuate the whole system and they don't charge me anything for it. As for the jumpering, when I was attempting to get the thing to kick on, I was using the plug that was right next to the high side port and did every jump configuration (there were only 4 pins) and nothing turned on, so I'm either not using a thick enough wire (was using 22ga stranded) or my compressor is fuckered. scuz fucked around with this message at 16:57 on Jun 9, 2016 |
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Jun 9, 2016 16:35
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scuz posted:I'm seriously green here, how does this help me? Where could I find such things? Also when I tried to jumper the high side plug, nothing kicked on, but I don't know whether I was jumpering it correctly. I'm just gonna bring it in If you reread the first few posts of the thread a couple times it gets easier to understand.
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Jun 9, 2016 16:36
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scuz posted:Holy crap, really? PC Duster cans work for that kinda thing? Neat. I'll take another crack at it this evening, but I need to make sure that this manifold gauge set is gonna work with R12/R-152. No, conversion to R-134a is more than the adapters and putting in 134. Different oil, and you really should drain as much of the old oil out as possible and replace all the o-rings with 134-compatible ones. He was just saying that you can use 134 gauges on R-12 with adapters. The pressure/temp chart on the gauge face will be wrong, but the you can still just go by pressure. Regarding R-152A, read this: http://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/c-charging-easy-cheap-safe-alternative-refrigerant-997918/ I have it in my RX-7 (originally R-12), and had it in my Cherokee (originally 134a). The '7s AC is mediocre when new, but it's acceptable with 152. The Cherokee was better with 152 than 134.
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Jun 9, 2016 16:51
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Thanks for the pointers, guys. I get cold feet doing this kinda thing some times. Darchangel posted:No, conversion to R-134a is more than the adapters and putting in 134. Different oil, and you really should drain as much of the old oil out as possible and replace all the o-rings with 134-compatible ones.  Anyways, aside from the fact that I can't get the compressor to kick on, I'm not able to source a can tapper locally anyway so I'll have to bring it into a shop since we're heading out tomorrow around 2PM. I'll still be using these fun facts and points you guys have given me when I'm tackling the Golf, which is totes R-134a thank goodness.
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Jun 9, 2016 17:10
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scuz posted:Thanks for the pointers, guys. I get cold feet doing this kinda thing some times. Yeah, half the AC threads in other forums turn into political grandstanding and moronic conspiracy theories. To fill with the PC Duster cans, you'll need this:  ~$14 online. You'll want to tap near the bottom of the can because 1. Its the strongest point on the can 2. The majority of the R-152 liquid is sitting at the bottom. You may need to remove the schrader valve from the can tap to hook it up to the Gauge Manifold to fill, as my Gauge Manifold did not have the pin to open the schrader valve on the can tap.
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Jun 9, 2016 17:45
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CommieGIR posted:Yeah, half the AC threads in other forums turn into political grandstanding and moronic conspiracy theories.
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Jun 9, 2016 17:52
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scuz posted:Hey, rad, looks like that'll work with the R-134a stuff, too, which is great since my gauge manifold doesn't have the little pokey jobber that will open the R-134a cans. You mean the little screw on tap like this?: 
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Jun 9, 2016 17:59
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CommieGIR posted:You mean the little screw on tap like this?:
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Jun 9, 2016 18:00
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scuz posted:Right, yeah, doesn't have that. I would expect that it would be pretty useful but if the tapper does the same job but for more things, I may as well get the tapper. You can pick up that little tap at any Auto Parts store, along with the R-12 to R-134 adapters for less than $10. But yeah, you need the other tap too.
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Jun 9, 2016 18:09
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CommieGIR posted:Yeah, half the AC threads in other forums turn into political grandstanding and moronic conspiracy theories. You can poke the hole anywhere. Gravity allows you to just turn the can till the spot you poked is at the bottom... I've always put it right in the middle of the can simply because it was convenient.
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Jun 10, 2016 17:50
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kastein posted:You can poke the hole anywhere. Gravity allows you to just turn the can till the spot you poked is at the bottom... I've always put it right in the middle of the can simply because it was convenient. I've had issues with the rubber gasket sealing against the can in the middle.
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Jun 10, 2016 17:58
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Fair enough, I've never had that issue but I've only used a can tap like 2-3 times, so statistically my data is pretty useless.
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Jun 10, 2016 18:35
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Hi A/C thread, I'm about to try and sell my 2005 police interceptor and having functional A/C is a must to sell a car in the south. Last winter I noticed a small pool of green dye under the car and traced it back to a little drain hole in the bottom of the accumulator. I pulled the fuse so the compressor hasn't run at all since I spotted the leak and I just lived without it. That said, it's been a year, what are my chances I can replace the accumulator, have the system vacuumed and filled, and have functional A/C again? Is there a safe way to check if it somehow held pressure this whole time? Am I 100% boned?
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Jun 10, 2016 21:34
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MonkeyNutZ posted:Hi A/C thread, I'm about to try and sell my 2005 police interceptor and having functional A/C is a must to sell a car in the south. Last winter I noticed a small pool of green dye under the car and traced it back to a little drain hole in the bottom of the accumulator. I pulled the fuse so the compressor hasn't run at all since I spotted the leak and I just lived without it. That said, it's been a year, what are my chances I can replace the accumulator, have the system vacuumed and filled, and have functional A/C again? Replace the Accumulator and the O-rings and give it a shot. If you can reach them, pull the lines on the compressor and condenser and replace their O-rings as well while you have the accumulator out. Pressure wise, just hook up a AC Gauge manifold to the system and see what the low/high side looks like.
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Jun 10, 2016 21:46
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MonkeyNutZ posted:Hi A/C thread, I'm about to try and sell my 2005 police interceptor and having functional A/C is a must to sell a car in the south. Last winter I noticed a small pool of green dye under the car and traced it back to a little drain hole in the bottom of the accumulator. I pulled the fuse so the compressor hasn't run at all since I spotted the leak and I just lived without it. That said, it's been a year, what are my chances I can replace the accumulator, have the system vacuumed and filled, and have functional A/C again? Accumulators have drain holes?
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Jun 10, 2016 22:49
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I think there's an outer casing with a little drain for water or condensation, I'll take a look at it when I get home. Thanks A/C thread!
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Jun 10, 2016 23:16
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MonkeyNutZ posted:I think there's an outer casing with a little drain for water or condensation, I'll take a look at it when I get home. Just realize: Your AC system uses fuel-line like connectors, so you'll need some tools to disconnect the lines.
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Jun 10, 2016 23:25
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