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Any idea what your low pressure cut off is set at? It seems pretty low for me, and as I understand it that translates to almost freezing temps on the evap core.
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Mar 21, 2014 22:07
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| # ¿ May 15, 2024 04:23 |
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Thanks for reposting this thread! I got my A/C working again, swapped in a compressor, replaced all the orings, flushed the system out, pulled vacuum for 1hr, let sit for 30min and it was leak free! Charged by weight with r134a (in case I sell it) as I still haven't found a HP fitting adapter. New compressor came with service ports but there is no room for the HP one as it fouls against the motor mount...
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Mar 27, 2014 17:50
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mafoose posted:Thanks for reposting this thread! GODDAMMIT. High pressure junction line just failed... It is literally a piece of tube 6 inches long with the over pressure valve on it that goes between the discharge hose and the condenser. So much for doing things right... R152 here we come! Guess how much this tiny tube is without the valve? $100. For 6 inches of aluminum.  (oh yea, the valve is $40)
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Mar 30, 2014 01:53
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I picked up a 3, possibly 5 cfm robinair pump at the pawn shop for $60. Needs an oil change and a good cleaning by it's all there. The model plate is missing and the 3 and 5 cfm pumps weight the same.
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Mar 30, 2014 15:52
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Oh it just keeps getting better!  This is after I chipped away some of the epoxy. Pretty sure there is supposed to be another fitting + o-ring connection here (at least that's what it looks like on new condensers). Seems like someone went to a lovely a/c repair place. gently caress... $100 hose, and so far I can't even find a condenser except for a $400 unit through volvo. Supposedly there's a difference between turbo and non turbo models... Everyone online has the non turbo one only.
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Apr 1, 2014 20:08
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Perhaps a blockage? Anyone have any experience with custom made ac parts? I need a few lines made, they're going to be in a hot place so I think solid would be best. Any places you recommend to buy universal parallel flow condensers? What about replumbing a dual evap core system with two expansion valves? Can I get a "universal" drier? Any recommendation on a compressor model for a retrofit? It needs to be vbelt driven. For a custom ac setup like this, how do you decide how much to oil to use? I take it you charge it based on running pressures? Do you add refrigerant until the high side stops rising or hits 200psi?
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Apr 29, 2014 07:50
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Well the wagon has ac again, I even left the gage set on overnight and saw no drop in vacuum after I had initially vacuumed it out. Couldn't find a nice oil syringe like what you use so I had to crack the system open and add oil via an opened port. Revac'd and charged it this morning. I'm going to do a write up in my thread this weekend about how I almost lit the car on fire when I went to recharge it. EDIT: I forgot to add that Sam's club has cheap r134a. 12-12oz cans for $50, or if you're feeling up to it, 30lbs of refrigerant for $86. Supposedly made AND packaged in the USA. mafoose fucked around with this message at 03:49 on May 3, 2014 |
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May 3, 2014 02:54
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Darchangel posted:Use the inside AC stuff from another first gen. It was all dealer or port installed, so the thing is modular. The heater core is in the middle behind the radio, but the evap assembly is between that and the blower housing. No-AC cars just had a duct there. I successfully transplanted an '84 evaporator and housing in my '79, to get the o-ring fittings (original '79 used [leaky] flare fittings,) so you should be able to use any year evaporator. Ditto for the condenser. Probably not too much of a problem to mount the Nippondenso compressor that most FBs had to the SBC. Custom hoses likely required, but if you can get all the AC bits from one FB, you can just have hoses and lines lengthened or shortened as needed. the factory setup is on the (US) driver's side, if you want to minimize changes needed. I agree with all this except I would use a factory (the newer the better) a/c compressor for the SBC. It will probably be cheaper to make new lines with SBC fittings on one side and rx on the other than to make custom brackets and have the old lines lengthened.
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May 22, 2014 20:11
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My friend has an old ford truck with factory r12. One of the main lines went bad this year and leaked out the refrigerant. He is mulling over doing the r152 conversion. If there is no sign of the black death, do we just vac and fill? Is r152 compatible with the original mineral oil? Or do we have to flush it and change oil type? Or do we just add oil for the line change? On the Volvo, r134 conversion requires use of ester oil.
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Jun 4, 2014 17:11
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Fucknag posted:House ac My system is 3 years old and it wouldn't kick on. Turns out it was a bad crimp causing excessive current flow which caused the cap to go bad. Cut the wire, recrimped the spade, and replaced that cap and we're running again.
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Jun 8, 2014 19:57
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They do sell test kits, but it seems like flushing and the correct weight pag oil is best.
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Jun 18, 2014 08:02
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Sounds like it is short cycling by hitting the low pressure cut off, and then switching back on at around 40psi when the low pressure switch closes back up (it has hysteresis). You want to keep as much air/moisture out of the system as possible, which is why it is a good idea to purge the lines.
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Jul 8, 2014 07:34
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How are you making the hard line? I've yet to find a tool that makes the o-ring seats that doesn't cost a fortune. Sure you could use flares, but no one uses that anymore. Are you using a parallel flow condensor? Also, there are to sizes of barrier hose, one is much smaller in OD and much easier to do smaller radius bends with.
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Oct 24, 2014 04:22
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jhcain posted:As for the condenser, it's... Whatever Classic Auto Air provided with the system when I installed it. It's probably crap. Is there benefit to trying to source a larger/better condenser? The bigger and more efficient the condenser, the more heat the system can pull out. At least that's my understanding. I remember seeing o-ring ends that you can sweat onto the ends of tubing you bend up, but I can't find them anymore. That would be the way to go so you can make everything yourself. Locally there is a shop that makes hard lines (according to their Facebook pictures) yet they refuse to quote me a setup. I need to fix the dual AC in the 645csi. Let me know if you find out more.
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Oct 25, 2014 03:20
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Sadi posted:Yeah, ive read the post. im sitting on the correct pressure for the temp, as you'd expect. It appears that the compressor is not turning on with the switch when the car is warm. the ac fan does however turn on. BloodBag posted:Is it possible the AC just sucked to begin with? My wife's 99 civic had some pretty lovely AC from day one when we got it (in 07). We live in Houston though, which murders AC. Do any Japanese cars come with good AC? I always thought that Ford had the best AC and everyone else was just a pretender. My MIL's navigator was appallingly cold right off of startup. This thing had almost as good of a/c as my e39 540i.
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Jun 16, 2015 09:01
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Parts stores carry a dye injector. You fill it with dye then you connect the can on one side and the service line on the other. I think I saw online some "one shot" pressurized dye things that inject dye when you plug them into the service port too.
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Jun 24, 2015 09:00
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Redoing the R152 conversion on my 535i tomorrow since the drat high pressure switch leaks, as does the schrader valves. Pressure switch is pipe thread. Do I need to put anything on it? Seems like teflon is a no-no, do I just install it dry? Found out that these cars have no low pressure switch... It makes filling them nice, but it seems kinda stupid since the compressors are $500 new... When I do the custom condensor, I think I'm going to do a binary switch install since I don't want shrapnel in a parallel flow condenser. drat thing is also starting to melt the fusebox at the condenser fan fuse. I might switch it to a relay setup. Also doing the brother in law's 2000 Civic. It was working good then quit. Condenser fan plug was melted. Replaced plug and all was good. Now it quit again... This time is evac'd all it's refrigerant. I can't find a leak except the schrader valve on the low side. I'm going to replace it and see if it holds vacuum tomorrow.
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Jul 17, 2015 06:52
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I think my robinair one from amazon was around $20 and much nicer than the previous mastercool one. You could take it to a shop that has testing equipment to figure out what refrigerant is in the car.
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Jul 31, 2015 07:34
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If the pressures are good, it could be a failing TXV. Is your condenser fan working?
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Aug 3, 2015 03:33
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Interesting. Most "higher end" cars have TXV systems. If it is indeed an orifice tube, see if you can get a variable one for it.
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Aug 3, 2015 04:22
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Doesn't water from the vents mean evaporator freezing? Which means low refrigerant? You should do a quick visual with a UV light and look for leaks, check the valve cores, and get a set of loaner gauges and see if there is any pressure in the system too.
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Aug 11, 2015 08:38
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Great Beer posted:. I COULD buy the gauges and check the pressure, but my budget is so tight right now I wouldnt be able to afford to fix it afterwards. That's why I said loaner gauges. Parts stores should have rentable ones.
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Aug 12, 2015 01:23
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kastein posted:After re-reading the thread (specifically the end of page 4 and some of page 5 I found relevant info) it seems best to flush the system and put either PAG 46 or PAG 100 (depending on compressor oil viscosity spec) in. So I'll plan on doing that. Esther works just fine with r152a. My friend's truck has two seasons with that combo in Phoenix (so those are long seasons) and it still cools great. My old Volvo wagon and my daily e28 have Esther oil, but one is r134 and the other r152a. Also, doesn't pag react with mineral oil and become gooey?
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Sep 4, 2015 04:46
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I hear the fancy machines can test the refrigerant, and will flip out if it's not what is accepted. Then cue the shop refusing to work on it. I only use it in vehicles I mean to keep for a while. On the wagon I recharged it to r134a when I sold it.
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Oct 10, 2015 10:31
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| # ¿ May 15, 2024 04:23 |
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Have you tried a static pressure reading after it sits over night? Won't that tell you if it's under charged?
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Oct 27, 2015 06:20
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