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So I determined using a leak sniffer that the slow leak in my AC system is exclusively the high-side Schrader valve on my Subaru. The low side reports a pressure of about 1 with everything off (the needle moved when I hooked it up, so I know that the gauge is working). The compressor (of course) does not cycle because the low-pressure safety switch is tripped. Is it likely that the valve just needs tightening prior to a recharge with dye and PAG-100 oil? If so, how much should I tighten it so that I don't ream the rear end in a top hat out of the aluminum fitting? From the looks of it, it appears to need like low in-lb of torque before it strips something. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 05:47 on Jun 30, 2015 |
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Jun 30, 2015 05:41
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 13:10 |
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There is actually pressure; it hissed at me when I hit the Schrader while trying to remove the leak tester from the valve holder. Not having to vac is a big plus. The valve is pretty low down in the holder so I think I'll probably have to get a valve core tool for a tire or something to tighten it down.
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Jun 30, 2015 05:48
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So I was at Canadian Tire looking for straight R134 and came across some Red-Tek "R12A" stuff that claims to be a replacement for R134a and "R12 substitutes." In teeny tiny little print further down on the can it says you have to totally evacuate any existing refrigerant because it is totally incompatible with existing R134a in the system, and you have to put a little sticker next to the low side valve to warn the next guy that you have replaced the refrigerant. The shelves were almost bare.  Surprised that they feel like they can just sell this stuff when 99.999% of people buying it are just going to grenade their cars with it.
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Jul 6, 2015 15:55
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I know that CSB's bricknose had a packrat nest in its blower motor so it's definitely a good idea to pull that apart first if you can.
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Jul 6, 2016 17:31
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