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Thanks for this thread, it's inspired me to fix my A/C system for the coming summer. I purchased a manifold gauge set, a can of 134a with UV dye, and a vacuum pump for later. 2005 Hyundai Sonata 2.4l I4 144k mi. Initial symptoms: - Warm air from vents - Subtle hissing from the vents whenever the A/C was turned on - Whining from the compressor when A/C turned on I took a static reading:  I wasn't too sure what it meant, because if I was out totally of refrigerant the pressures would both be equal. At this point, I knew I needed to get some refrigerant into the system especially with the UV dye so I could find the leak/issue. Once I got the compressor to cycle on, gauges read this:  It didn't take long before I looked down and saw this:    I know I'll need at least a condenser, receiver/drier, and refrigerant/oil. The questions I have: 1. Is it necessary to have the system flushed when I replace the condenser? 2. Is it better to get 134a with oil already in it, or to add oil to the condenser after I vacuum the system? 3. Would a used condenser be ill-advised? 4. The Compressor has an audible whine when running which changes with the RPMs. Is this a bad bearing and worthwhile to replace the clutch, or should I replace the whole unit? 5. The yellow service line on the manifold gauge set has a little knob and a schrader valve under it, on the valve body. Am I missing a knob that will open/close the line? SeeYouEnTee fucked around with this message at 04:22 on Apr 11, 2014 |
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Apr 11, 2014 04:20
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Fucknag posted:You've got bigger problems if that static reading is accurate (ie engine off for at least an hour or so). Your static pressures are uneven side to side (they should equalize with the compressor off), and the high side reading is borderline; if the engine bay was hot, that's aboout the static pressure for 100 degrees Fahrenheit, but if it was cold (equal to ambient temp) then there's contamination and the system will need to be vacuumed and probably flushed. I took that reading about 5 minutes after I got back, I hadn't used the A/C. Would that account for the differential in pressure? I'll take another reading today and get back to you tonight. I'll have a video too of the compressor. It sounds a little like a supercharger whine, but lower (and obviously quieter). The vent air did get cold and dry. It was sooo nice. I'm really looking forward to a fixed system. It's been about a year since all the symptoms started, and I'll admit I just chucked in a can of 134a when the heat got too bad. That was all before I knew it was bad.
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Apr 11, 2014 21:51
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Motronic posted:It's probably leaking because it was clogged and over pressured on the output side of the compressor (exactly where your picture showed the dye). It's got a receiver drier as far as I can tell from online ordering websites. So at this point I know the condenser is kaput, and possibly likely the compressor as well? I took this reading static. It went full retard:  Car off for 1+ hours, no a/c use since 2 days ago. When I ran it to capture the noises on video, it read more normal. Low side was 20-30 in/hg, high side was 225-260 in/hg which from what I've seen is where the numbers should be when the system is running, correct? More clues! - The high side line going to compressor was hot to touch, low side line was air temperature. - Expansion valve mounted on firewall is very cold, no frost on any lines. Compressor whining: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1WQDJ8NbaM Numbers while running (compressor running at start of video): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vTOb1G6Eq4 So what do I need to order? Is there enough evidence that the compressor is on it's last legs given the contamination to block the condenser and the whining? Edit: Order list so far: Condenser http://www.discountbodyparts.com/ca...a/c%20condenser Gasket Kit http://www.partsgeek.com/ss/?i=1&ssq=18380-05254135&x=23&y=11 Pag 46 oil http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2005/hyundai/sonata/fluids-fs-manuals-fs-misc/r134a_refrigerant_oil.html?brand=four_seasons SeeYouEnTee fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Apr 13, 2014 |
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Apr 13, 2014 03:06
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Motronic posted:So you also need an expansion valve Expansion valve is $9 so I'll just pick it on up. Final list: 1 Compressor 1 Condenser 1 Pag 46 Oil 1 Gasket Kit 1 Receiver drier 1 Expansion Valve All told I'm looking at $259 in parts and who knows how much time in my own labor. kastein posted:I'd just shotgun it and replace drat near everything in the system. Probably going to roll the dice on the evaporator as I don't want to open up the dashboard to get at it. Fucknag posted:Yeah, honestly that compressor sounds pretty well lunched. Fucknag posted:BTW, those numbers you gave should actually be PSI, only the red numbers on the low side gauge are in/Hg; that's a measurement of vacuum. Thank you all for your help diagnosing. I'm sure I'll run into more problems with the install so I'll be around for a bit.
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Apr 13, 2014 05:15
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Update: Had the system recovered and flushed at a garage and I got the new parts installed! I couldn't get one drat screw off of the expansion valve so I'm letting it sit closed with a vacuum until morning to decide if I want to tackle that problem.  That little piece of poo poo black bolt. Head stripped when I gave it a good twist to break the corrosion. It's between the throttle body, and that low side line that snakes up and in the way of any kind of tool that would give me a chance of getting it out. Anyone have any good ideas? Old condenser    This was between condenser/radiator:  Old vs. New:  Oil from old:  Compressor Hole:  Compressor grinding: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Ct5SNcRSwc The new compressor had oil in it already, so I just put about 1 ounce in the new condenser. Vacuumed for an hour and like I said I'll let it sit while I decide if I want to torture myself with bolt extraction. 
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Apr 25, 2014 02:00
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