|
Can I leave the old PAG oil in if I convert an R134a system to R152?
|
#
¿
Jul 22, 2015 17:13
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 14, 2024 22:01 |
|
|
1995 Lexus SC400 total system capacity: 1.65 pounds of R-134a, 4.8 ounces of ND-8 (or equivalent) oil. You can get a Denso replacement compressor for an SC400 for $300 from Rockauto in the US. I am far from an expert, but isn't ester oil recommended when converting R-12 systems to R-134a, since it will work with either refrigerant? Let's see some pictures of that Soarer.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 30, 2015 20:38
|
|
|
ShittyPostmakerPro posted:I've just been through this for myself. R152 is difluoroethylene. R134 is tetrafluoroethylene. It always seems to be written on the label. Dust-Off is difluoroethylene, so just grab some Dust-Off form Walmart. What is a cheap source for a side tap for the cans? Advance Auto wants $30 for one, which seems like way too much.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 30, 2015 20:40
|
|
|
I'm trying to convert m 1993 Toyota Pickup (4 cylinder) from non-working R12 to R152. There was no pressure in the system. I got a set of conversion fittings so I can connect my gauge set. The low side fitting fits fine, but I can't get any of the three pieces in the kit to fit over the existing high side fitting. If I proceed to vacuum down the system on the low side only, will this do any good? Alternately, what do I need to be able to connect my gauge set to the high side?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 10, 2015 21:18
|
|
|
I have a 1993 Toyota pickup (4 cylinder 5-speed). I bought the truck last summer and the air conditioning has never worked. I intended to try to convert to the computer duster refrigerant, and went so far as to get the duster cans, a side-piercing can tap, ester oil, and a "universal" fitting conversion kit. I already own a gauge set with fittings for R-134a and a vacuum pump. I found the low side fitting right near the AC compressor. The universal kit had a fitting that fit right on it with no problems. The port on the high side is on a small diameter hard line that appears to run to the evaporator is of a size that does not correspond to any of the parts in the conversion kit. So the question is this: does anyone know where I can get a part to adapt an early-1990s Toyota R-12 high side fitting to a modern R-134a fitting OR can I evacuate and fill the system without bothering with the high side fitting? I know I will not have the ability to diagnose problems if I can't connect the gauges to the high side, so an adapter fitting would be great. The plan is to evacuate and see the system can hold a vacuum. If it can, I will remove the AC compressor, turn it upside down to remove most of ye olde R-12 compressor oil, replace the receiver/drier and any o-rings I come in contact with along the way, then fill with ester oil and computer duster gas. Any flaws here? When I press the Schrader valve on the high side fitting, it hisses a little, so the system can hold at least a little pressure.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 22, 2016 14:21
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Yeah, you're only removing about 1/3 of the old oil unless you replace or flush the condenser and evap. You'll want to flush the lines as well. Will ester oil mix OK with whatever oil was with the R-12 from 1993?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 22, 2016 22:07
|
|
|
I have drawn a vacuum on my Toyota's AC system. When I open the valve on the high side fitting, the gauge goes back to zero, so there is "continuity" from the high side to the low side of the system. This system was presumably full of R-12. Will it ruin the compressor If I just fill it with computer duster without doing anything with the oil for a test run (a week)?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 25, 2016 17:40
|
|
|
I tested the high side fitting just to make sure my vacuum pump was evacuating the high side and the low side of the system. I pulled the compressor this morning. I removed the little manifold piece on the top and spun the compressor snout around. It made some gurgling "compression" sounds, but NOTHING came out. I have no idea how long ago this system last worked. I really don't want to take the whole system apart and replace the evaporator in the event of catastrophic compressor failure, so I just ordered a new condenser and compressor (with clutch) to go with the receiver/drier I was already planning on installing. So I guess for now I tie some plastic bags around the hose ends and wait for parts to show up. I will drain any oil in the new compressor and refill with the same amount of ester oil. I will also add the amount of oil specified in the literature for condenser and receiver/drier replacement. The system holds vacuum, but I elected to replace the condenser because it has oil grime on some of the fins, implying a leak at some point.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 26, 2016 16:21
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 14, 2024 22:01 |
|
|
The high side fitting is up by the firewall, but my kit didn't come with any adapter fittings that fit. So I am vacuuming from the low side only. I took off a couple of hard lines and hoses along with the condenser, receiver/drier, and compressor. There were no signs of contamination in any of the hoses. I took the little manifold cover off the compressor, and it was totally clean inside. The compressor spun without any scratching. I dug through a service manual and found this information about oil: System capacity: 4.1 oz (121cc) Amount to add when changing: Receiver/drier: 20cc Condenser: 40-50cc Evaporator: 40-50cc Compresor: looked all over, not listed? So should I just add 120cc of ester oil and hope there isn't much oil in the evaporator?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 26, 2016 21:06
|
|