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DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...
On my 1978 Subaru, I have a dealer installed A/C system. It is a TXV based setup, and looks to be complete. I have a new receiver/dryer and had a few questions.

I'm definitely wanting to do a R152 conversion, the original was R12 and the system has been open/disassembled for a decade or more. What sort of oil would I use? I don't have a refrigerant quantity spec, should I go off of pressures? The original compressor is a Sanden, and both it and its clutch are good. Should I replace it anyway? The hoses are Goodyear or something with 90 deg -8 and -10 AN with barb fittings and worm drive hose clamps, and the hose it bad. Should I put them together and find an A/C or hydraulic shop to make modern crimped hoses, or just get fittings/hose from Jegs/Summit/Earl's and do it myself?

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DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...

Motronic posted:

Yeah, you'll have to go off pressures for this one. Most likely the oil to use is going to be PAG46, but see if you can find a specific model on the compressor and look up what they recommend for weight.

I'm not so sure on custom hoses......my gut says get crimped ones, but I'm sure doing your own fittings with high quality stuff should work out.

As far as replacing the compressor......if it works who cars? And the "refrigerant" is cheap enough for you to give it a try and see how it goes.

Answers I was hoping for! The dryers are $5 on Rockauto, so I don't mind doing a couple test iterations to get everything right.

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...
I attempted to connect up my R12 style gauge set to my 87 323 wagon and noticed that the high pressure side fitting is smaller than the low side and all the gauge/manifold fittings. I didn't see an adapter in the box or one in stores, is there something I am missing? Also is the switch on the compressor itself usually a high or low pressure cut-out switch? Otherwise, 8oz of ester and 18oz test amount of R152a seemed to go in fine. If this doesn't work I'll just take it to a shop for R134, I already redid all the orings in the system with HNBR and it held vacuum without issue, the high side port leaked a tiny bit until I cleaned it out with brake cleaner.

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...
That'd be it. Are there adapters for sale somewhere or should I try to buy that single hose for my gauge set?

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...

ShittyPostmakerPro posted:

If you're going to use PC duster as a replacement for R12, choose a can which has a 'contains difluoroethane' warning. Difluoroethane is R-152. Tetrafluoroethylene is also found in duster, and is R-134a (also a great refrigerant, but not what we are looking for in this application)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_refrigerants

'Dust off' brand contains R-152. It's also one of the more expensive brands. Damnit.

I bought a 3x10oz can package at the local Big Lots for $12, and its good old R152A. Green cans, as I remember.

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DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...

ShittyPostmakerPro posted:

If you're going to use PC duster as a replacement for R12, choose a can which has a 'contains difluoroethane' warning. Difluoroethane is R-152. Tetrafluoroethylene is also found in duster, and is R-134a (also a great refrigerant, but not what we are looking for in this application)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_refrigerants

'Dust off' brand contains R-152. It's also one of the more expensive brands. Damnit.

I bought a 3x10oz can package at the local Big Lots for $12, and its good old R152A. Green cans, as I remember.

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