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Yeah you might want to flush and fill a few times. I'm guessing somebody used tap water with a lot of ions? Lucky that wheel didn't lose any fins. Mine unfortunately hasn't moved since I relocated to the new shop 3 months ago. Still need to rinse off the spring pollen. Maybe I'll get that done today and take it for a spin.  Edit: did get it cleaned up and took the family for a ride. 
angryrobots fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Jul 21, 2014 |
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Jul 20, 2014 18:10
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| # ¿ May 13, 2024 14:41 |
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325is bronzit. Stock ride height, OEM basketweaves on 195-65-14. Need tires. Nobody local has anything, and the only thing I can find online decent is a kumho in 195-65. Can't find a 205-60 at all. This is an extra pleasure vehicle. I could order the 195-65 online but not really a fan of running a tire I apparently could not replace if I drove out of town. What are my options here, if I buy new wheels what's not going to look goofy at stock ride height?
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Dec 26, 2014 17:47
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 I think I've decided on these 15x7 wheels which are on sale for $133 from bavauto, with a 205-55 Dunlop summer tire. They are hub centric which I prefer. Found a couple BBS style wheels on eBay which were supposedly also hub centric, but couldn't find much info on the manufacturer, so decided against them even though I prefer that style. Any thoughts?
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Dec 27, 2014 21:56
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13.8 vs 15.3 lbs. Unsprung weight I know, but negligible for my purposes. It would be a fair amount cheaper, tho. And the Beyern wheels are probably a bit fancy for a bronzit, even though I like them more. $996 shipped for Beyern, plus mount/balance locally. $825 for trm c1 shipped ready to install. Yeah I'll probably go that way. Thanks.
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Dec 28, 2014 02:50
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I think the new wheels are pretty OK.
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Jan 5, 2015 03:57
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Been kinda kicking around the idea of getting a gas saver to drive into work and ferry the kids around. The 325is doesn't get much better mileage than my truck, and 2 doors with kids is a hassle. 91 318i 4 door/5 speed just popped up on one of my for sale pages. Contacted them and received some terrible pictures (seriously what is wrong with people, why do you think I want to see your ugly, ill-fitting seat covers as the entire picture). Might go take a look.
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Feb 7, 2015 14:52
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I wouldn't complain about that, just going with what's available. The couple eta I've seen locally have been automatic or asking too much. And I kinda like wringing out a 4 banger.
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Feb 7, 2015 15:38
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Probably better than the 16-17 mpg in my v8 truck though. And a lot more fun.
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Feb 7, 2015 15:58
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I'm sure this is won't help, but it happens that a clutch release bearing from a flathead-era Ford is sized perfectly to (IIRC) fit in the opening behind the bearing. That, and some 3/4 threaded rod/nuts and bearing outer race sized washers, is what I pushed mine in and out with. Good luck.
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Feb 9, 2015 05:45
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Dunno if everyone checks the AI marketplace thread, but I put my 1987 325is up for sale yesterday. I haven't listed it anywhere else yet, I've never been a member of any BMW boards and I know how CL is going to be....
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May 19, 2015 23:16
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Moxie Omen posted:What the, I thought you were west coast for some reason. I've never been a member of r3v, think I'd be welcome? Give me a reason to hang on to the old girl a while longer (the car not the wife).
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May 20, 2015 19:01
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So thinking about going to that meet inspired me to go dick around with the car this evening. I've had a persistent issue with a crappy idle, usually just when it's warm. My bs gauge thinks it's throwing too much fuel at it. CEL will illuminate at idle, any little movement of the throttle will smooth out the idle and the CEL will go off. Stomp test will show code 1222. I have changed the o2 and hunted down vacuum leaks, which both did help with engine management under load, but the lovely idle persists. I unplugged the AFM and cranked it up, idle was smoother. Am I looking at a probable bad AFM or do I need further diagnostics? Do I have to go back with another AFM or are there any better options (like a plug and play MAF, that would be sweet).
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May 21, 2015 04:03
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Moxie Omen posted:Crappy idle like too low? or hunting? FPR, that's no problem I can throw that at it. Injectors, what is going wrong with them maybe? Think they're not closing all the way? Edit:I feel like running better with the AFM disconnected, means the fuel delivery is probably OK. I'm not familiar with the older e30 motronic, but I had to go deep into an issue with another car, and running better in alpha-n points pretty hard at a bad input. angryrobots fucked around with this message at 12:48 on May 21, 2015 |
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May 21, 2015 11:41
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I found a place that will refurbish and test the AFM, but upon some digging into the motronic operation, I don't think the ecu is (supposed to) be reading the AFM at idle, which is where my issue is at. The TPS is not a variable resistance unit like more modern fuel injection systems use. It has three positions, idle (ecu uses intake air and coolant temp, does not use measured air volume), middle position (AFM in use), and WOT (max fueling table). So I need to test my tps to make sure it's sending idle position signal and look for vacuum leaks (like every other e30) and that's where I'm still at, haven't had a chance to screw with it.
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Jun 23, 2015 23:26
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| # ¿ May 13, 2024 14:41 |
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Tashan Dorrsett posted:TPS is easy. STOMP test if your ecu is new enough and if the STOMP test works so does your TPS. If your ECU is too old like mine (pre-november 1988) then you can manually open the throttle and listen for it to click on and off reliably when it's ever so slightly open. And I thought that about the stomp test generally verifying the tps operation, but my issue is intermittent, and it's an easy thing to check (if you have time, which I don't, so it sits).
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Jun 24, 2015 21:07
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