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Twerk from Home posted:Haswell is named after a town in Colorado so poor that the entire town only has one computer: http://www.denverpost.com/ci_23370797/intels-newest-processor-named-after-small-colorado-town quote:So what all does this chip thing do or whatever? Sounds like they wouldn't know what to do with a computer if it hit them in the head.
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Oct 9, 2014 23:26
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Knifegrab posted:So I have decided on parts for my new build almost across the board, and have even grabbed up some of them already. 1) There isn't a de facto one, but the recommendation are basically "Asus or ASRock, then drill down based on size, extra features, and budget." First decide ATX or mATX - either will work, though full ATX may allow you to do two custom-cooled cards with the extra slot between them, whereas any board that butts the cards right up to each other needs reference-cooled (blower) cards. I'll just shortlist some: ASRock Z97 Extreme4 (ATX) Asus Z97 Gryphon (mATX) or Sabertooth (ATX) - great overclocker, no-nonsense design Asus Maximus VII Gene (mATX) or Hero (ATX) - think Gryphon/Sabertooth with a built-in sound card with headphone amp. Includes nonsense. I'd love to recommend other boards, but so many have that Goddamn KILLERTM LAN that's such horseshit. You could get e.g. an ASRock Z97M OC Formula and take your chances installing the generic Qualcomm-Atheros driver, but it still won't be great. 2) Haswell on LGA 1150 is dual-channel only. Quad channel is reserved for Haswell-E on LGA 2011-3, and no, it's not worth it. If you get 2x8GB of RAM, yeah, you'll be set. Might be buying more RAM than you need, but set you'd be. ZenVulgarity posted:Thanks mate. Speaking of coolers, I've seen the h100 recommended over the h80, but most benchmarks/testing equipment I've seen use the h80i over the h100i or the h110. Is there any particular reason for that? I also seem to recall the actual performance is rather similar, and some of the Kraken products similarly priced straight up beating the corsairs in terms of performance. Watercooling radiator effectiveness depends on 1) materials (primarily copper vs. aluminum, but also in the mechanical design of the water block and radiator), 2) surface area, and 3) fans. When you're comparing apples to apples, e.g. a 120mm Asetek to a same-generation 140mm, 240mm or 280mm Asetek, materials are the same. The H80i looks so hot-poo poo because it's extra-thick and thus has more radiating surface area than other 120mm radiators. At 38mm thick vs. 25mm for a standard radiator, the H80i has a bit more surface area than a 140mm x 25mm radiator like the Kraken X40 or H90 (which are extremely similar Asetek-OEM parts). The thickness comes at the cost of needing a hell of a lot of fan to push air through it, but it has that, what with the dual fans. Fan setup is the other big deal. Dense radiators are extremely difficult to push air through. You need a fan with good static pressure; airflow alone is not enough. Corsair's stock fans, IIRC, are not very good in terms of static pressure. Of course, they'll sell you their SP120 fans if you want to do better. NZXT's Kraken fan is a lot better than the stock Corsair radiator fans. A lot of bechmark setups will go with the H80i because it's high-end without being extreme, and the 120mm mounting makes it extremely compatible with a wide variety of cases in a way a 240mm or (especially) 280mm radiator would not be. For a GPU, the limiting factor isn't the rate at which you can draw heat off the processor die, like with CPUs. GPU dies are big and not as heat-dense as CPUs. But for extremely high power draw cards like the Radeon R9-290/290X, you can run into limits of the total heat transfer capacity of the cooler. Don't get me wrong: you can put a LOT of power into a CLC radiator. The Radeon R9-295X cools two 290X GPUs on a single 120mm x 38mm Asetek radiator (essentially an H80i) with a single fan, keeping the GPUs at 85 C full load with a quiet fan curve. I've got my GeForce 680 on a 120mm x 25mm H55 (Asetek) with a Noctua NF-F12 fan, and even overclocked and maxed out on power target (~250W board power), it's kept at a frosty 60 C under load. But what I would not do is get a 290X and overvolt the poo poo out of it and try to run that on 120mm x 25mm. If you're not overvolting and just playing with power target, should work fine. But overvolting? 38mm thick radiator or a 140mm x 25mm radiator, IMO.
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Oct 10, 2014 00:28
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The Iron Rose posted:This is entirely off topic but I just absolutely adore Intel's standards for naming their CPUs. Lynnfield rolls off the tongue, Sandy and Ivy Bridge just sound cool, and Haswell is kinda meh but still interesting. Where do they come up with those names? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_codenames Well, blimey. There are some great names there. I always liked the sound of 'Nehalem', and now I know what it is!
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Oct 10, 2014 00:35
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Been reading a bunch of discussions about fans/cooling and I still haven't reached a consensus. What's everybody's opinion on PSU placement? Fan up or fan down? My case has a vent with a dust screen on the bottom so it's facing down but some people say to face it up. The PC is on flat table. This is what my current air flow is like, should I change it?  (not my PC)
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Oct 10, 2014 00:44
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Factory Factory posted:1) There isn't a de facto one, but the recommendation are basically "Asus or ASRock, then drill down based on size, extra features, and budget." First decide ATX or mATX - either will work, though full ATX may allow you to do two custom-cooled cards with the extra slot between them, whereas any board that butts the cards right up to each other needs reference-cooled (blower) cards. Thanks so much. I am assuming only Asus or ASRock because they don't use the stupid lan drivers? I was looking at this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130777 I really just want something with loads and loads of USB and it also looks like it'll be great for SLI. I am not planning on overclocking at all.
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Oct 10, 2014 00:51
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Mostly, yeah, re: LAN. My favorite three vendors are Asus, MSI, and ASRock, and if you've got an MSI board that works without the KILLER LAN, then great! Asus has an additional leg up: great fan control. All of the fans on an Asus board can be independently controlled with either voltage regulation or PWM, and they can be set in BIOS or in software. Really top-notch.
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Oct 10, 2014 01:00
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Factory Factory posted:Mostly, yeah, re: LAN. My favorite three vendors are Asus, MSI, and ASRock, and if you've got an MSI board that works without the KILLER LAN, then great! So that board I linked, would it be bad then? Its MSI, and I cannot figure out if it uses stupid LAN tech. And while fan control is pretty cool, since I am not OCing should that interest me? I am in love with that board I linked above but do you think a board like this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...ID=3938566&SID= would be better? I realize its an OCing variant, and I am not sure where to find quality boards that don't care about OCIng.
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Oct 10, 2014 01:06
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The board you listed has RealTek LAN, which isn't great but it's going to give you bluescreens, either. It's a fine board. Fan control... It's not that other boards are bad, it's just that Asus boards are great. And even though you aren't overclocking, you *are* putting two graphics cards in one machine. Air is important. On one hand, get the MSI board you linked and reference-cooled video cards. A bit loud, but it'll work. On the other hand, get that Asus Z97-A and two open-air cards (like MSI Twin Frozr or Gigabyte Windforce), and pick a really nice case, give it an extra really nice fan, and you could have a system that's much quieter and cools better. Costs more, but you'd be paying not to have a PC that sounds like a hair dryer.
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Oct 10, 2014 02:10
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Factory Factory posted:The board you listed has RealTek LAN, which isn't great but it's going to give you bluescreens, either. It's a fine board. First off, thank you so much for hashing this out with me. I am terrible at making these big decisions so having someone guide me means a lot. So I should mention, I have already purchased a twin frozr 970, I have already purchased Corsair Air 540 case. The main reason I want that msi card is because I have a ton of periphs (space sim/driving sim/giant nerd). But do you think it would be better to just pick up that asus board and get a usb hub instead? And if so what specific motherboard would you suggest? I will have three storages devices (two internal SSD's, one internal HDD, I already have the SSD's), ideally two 970's (I have the one now), and the haswell 4790k (I already have this as well). I will also be picking up some 1600 2x8Gb dual channel Ram at some point.
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Oct 10, 2014 02:24
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Roger Wynter posted:Would very much appreciate some advice on the below build. My main aim is to build something small and quite (so my better half will stick around), but that will still let me game at decent levels; 1080+ 60fps. First of all, you have an outdated z87 motherboard - you need a z97 board for overclocking, or a h97board if you aren't overclocking. That case can only fit low profile coolers like the intel stock cooler; or a phanteks TC90LS (which would be quieter). I'm not sure it's worth trying to overclock with those restrictions, and you certainly shouldn't feel like you need to overclock to get good performance. I'd get an asrock h97m-ITX/AC, and a 4690. I'd also suggest getting one of the silverstone 80+ gold rated SFX PSUs - they're higher quality and the modular cabling would be a massive boon in a case that small. If you really want to overclock, or you really want to make your PC as quiet as possible, it might be worth while considering a larger mITX case, like the bitfenix prodigy, or even the quieter colossus mITX.
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Oct 10, 2014 02:50
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Dr. Video Games 0089 posted:Been reading a bunch of discussions about fans/cooling and I still haven't reached a consensus. What's everybody's opinion on PSU placement? Fan up or fan down? My case has a vent with a dust screen on the bottom so it's facing down but some people say to face it up. The PC is on flat table. No. It's supposed to go fan down so that the PSU can draw fresh air from outside the case. I can't begin to imagine why people would be suggesting otherwise in a modern case like that. Really old school cases had the PSU doubling as an exhaust for the PC, with the PSU at the top but the fan facing down.
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Oct 10, 2014 02:55
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Knifegrab posted:First off, thank you so much for hashing this out with me. I am terrible at making these big decisions so having someone guide me means a lot. I would just get the Z97-A, then. You can't do effective SLI on the Twin Frozr models without the extra slot between the cards that the Z97-A has. The Air 540 has enough fans to keep things cool, but its default ones are a bit noise and the good fan control will be beneficial. Would've been nice to know you already had a case earlier. 
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Oct 10, 2014 02:58
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Factory Factory posted:I would just get the Z97-A, then. You can't do effective SLI on the Twin Frozr models without the extra slot between the cards that the Z97-A has. The Air 540 has enough fans to keep things cool, but its default ones are a bit noise and the good fan control will be beneficial. Sorry and thank you so much. Pulling the trigger.
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Oct 10, 2014 03:00
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Dr. Video Games 0089 posted:Been reading a bunch of discussions about fans/cooling and I still haven't reached a consensus. What's everybody's opinion on PSU placement? Fan up or fan down? My case has a vent with a dust screen on the bottom so it's facing down but some people say to face it up. The PC is on flat table. That's fine, but you should have front intake rather than top intake.
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Oct 10, 2014 03:03
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Real quick, what power supply should I get? I don't even understand the difference between modular and non-modular etc.
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Oct 10, 2014 03:11
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Knifegrab posted:Real quick, what power supply should I get? I don't even understand the difference between modular and non-modular etc. SeaSonic G-750 SSR-750RM (good, 5 year warranty) or SeaSonic SS-760XP2 (best of the best, 7 year warranty). Modular means that instead of all the connectors being hardwired, they have connectors and you can plug in just the ones you need.
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Oct 10, 2014 03:26
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Factory Factory posted:SeaSonic G-750 SSR-750RM (good, 5 year warranty) or SeaSonic SS-760XP2 (best of the best, 7 year warranty). Currently, the excellent EVGA 2nd Gen Fully Modular 80+ Gold 750W PSU is $80 at newegg. It is Leadex-based and has a 10-year warranty. http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-power-supply-220g20750xr OklahomaWolf gave it a 9.8/10, only detracting for a $130 price at review time and some minor build nitpicks. http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story6&reid=380 Basically, if anybody's in the market for a 750W PSU, this is a stellar price. $8/yr cost of ownership beats even a "cheap" $30 CX430 with a 3-year warranty for $10/yr.
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Oct 10, 2014 03:43
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While putting my new PC together I realized I don't have a single loving sata III cable. Is there any difference between any of the ones I'm seeing on amazon, other than some have a 90 degree plug and others don't?
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Oct 10, 2014 03:55
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no
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Oct 10, 2014 03:59
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JRay88 posted:While putting my new PC together I realized I don't have a single loving sata III cable. Is there any difference between any of the ones I'm seeing on amazon, other than some have a 90 degree plug and others don't? In theory, a SATA cable is a SATA cable. If you have older ones, try them first. After the first day, check your drives' SMART logs for UltraDMA CRC errors. If there aren't any, you're set. Otherwise, just buy whatever as long as it isn't from Joe's Discount Wire Hut and made with duct tape. E: Peanut3141 posted:Currently, the excellent EVGA 2nd Gen Fully Modular 80+ Gold 750W PSU is $80 at newegg. It is Leadex-based and has a 10-year warranty. That's a sweet deal right there. Factory Factory fucked around with this message at 04:07 on Oct 10, 2014 |
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Oct 10, 2014 04:01
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Ok Goons, you want a challenge? I’ll give you a challenge! My Ladyfriend’s best friend just got a very nice job and wants a new computer, having never owned a desktop before. The catch:It must be pre-built  and shipped to their doorstep.No amount of logic or arguing will change this fact, therefore, it cannot be hand built. I would do it myself, but they live far far away. Ideally this will come with a hassle free warranty, etc. The site he gave me is https://www.cyberpowerpc.com/ however, if you know of a better, reputable site that is perfectly fine. The max budget (including shipping and tax) is $2000 flexible to say $50 overage if it is truly necessary. Computer will be used for general use and gaming, example of games include Civ: BE, Shadows of Mordor, Rome Total War 2 at 1080p, single monitor setup. EVERYTHING is needed in this build: Tower & Guts – Mid tower or Mini if build and budget allow. Monitor - TN 24”, 1080p Mouse – Standard mouse, Just no Razer, not even once. Keyboard (non-mechanical is fine). For some reason, they don’t need speakers though… Wifi card not needed, will be hardwired. This is what I was able to come up with quickly, but I am sure someone else will either have a better site, or better selections. http://www.cyberpowerpc.com/saved/1GE6RH Yes, I know the prices are terrible. Yes, I know the selection is poor, bear with me goons!
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Oct 10, 2014 05:06
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The Rev posted:Ok Goons, you want a challenge? I ll give you a challenge! I'll tackle this in depth when I'm off my phone, but in the mean time can you answer these questions: 1. What about going to a regular computer store that sells computer parts, and paying extra to have them do the building? Plenty of stores do this. Hell, you could charge him or her 100 dollars and do it. This would still be far better value than a prebuilt. 2. Do the peripherals and screen need to come with the pc or can they be purchased elsewhere? 3. There is no excuse for a TN panel in this day and age. Does this person specifically want one for some reason? This needs to be addressed.
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Oct 10, 2014 05:13
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I would play with OriginPC's configurators. They are one of the few boutiques that does good work for what I would call a reasonable markup. CyberpowerPC's customer service can be incredibly trashy, as can some of their part selections.
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Oct 10, 2014 05:19
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The Lord Bude posted:I'll tackle this in depth when I'm off my phone, but in the mean time can you answer these questions: 1. To the best of my knowledge, he doesn't live anywhere close to a store that provides this type of service. I also don't want to do it myself due to the risk of something getting damaged in shipping - I also don't want that responsibility. 2. Peripherals do not need to be purchased at the same location, as long as the tower is functional, and all he has to do is plug the extras in and turn it on. Due to location, it would have to be from Amazon/Newegg or a big retailer. No Micro centers are nearby. 3. No specific reason, I selected TN to keep the cost down. I'm not entirely sure he would value the difference in picture of an IPS vs. TN as much as the majority of people in this thread would. Edit - I'm off to bed, will check this thread tomorrow at work and do my best to answer any other questions that pop up. The Rev fucked around with this message at 05:36 on Oct 10, 2014 |
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Oct 10, 2014 05:24
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The Rev posted:1. To the best of my knowledge, he doesn't live anywhere close to a store that provides this type of service. I also don't want to do it myself due to the risk of something getting damaged in shipping - I also don't want that responsibility. I'll look at a few places for you. IPS panels are both common, and not particularly more expensive these days. edit: Origin does seem to be the best value, but you're still paying a huge markup. try and get it to around 1750 - 1800 dollars - use their small form factor option as a base - and then spend the rest on a 23" 1080p IPS panel (should be around 160-200 dollars) a good mouse (logitech G402) and a decent keyboard - there isn't enough budget space left for mechanical, so just go for a standard microsoft keyboard. The Lord Bude fucked around with this message at 06:17 on Oct 10, 2014 |
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Oct 10, 2014 05:26
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Ok, I just rebuilt my machine with an existing PSU (the Corsair HX850) and it's having problems booting. Like I press the power button and sometimes power cycles 3 times before it finally takes and I boot in to Windows. Or I had it boot up but never put out display although the USB ports powered on as my X1 controller vibrated like it got to the Windows Login screen. Is it time for a new PSU?
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Oct 10, 2014 06:13
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Anti-Hero posted:Ok, I just rebuilt my machine with an existing PSU (the Corsair HX850) and it's having problems booting. Like I press the power button and sometimes power cycles 3 times before it finally takes and I boot in to Windows. Or I had it boot up but never put out display although the USB ports powered on as my X1 controller vibrated like it got to the Windows Login screen. Is it time for a new PSU? If it's a new PC apart from the PSU, and your PSU was previously working, until you stuck it in the new PC, I'd be more inclined to blame the new motherboard.
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Oct 10, 2014 06:18
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Let me expand a little - old setup exhibited this behavior, albeit very sporadically. I blamed the old motherboard but it seems it's carried over to the new set up with greater frequency.
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Oct 10, 2014 06:22
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Anti-Hero posted:Let me expand a little - old setup exhibited this behavior, albeit very sporadically. I blamed the old motherboard but it seems it's carried over to the new set up with greater frequency. Well in that case, if the only common component is the PSU, it probably is the PSU.
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Oct 10, 2014 06:28
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Could it be a motherboard standoff causing a short? I'd rather not replace the PSU if I can help it. It's under warranty but I can't imagine Corsair cross-shipping me a new unit.
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Oct 10, 2014 06:59
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I'm thinking of upgrading to a GTX 970 but I want to confirm that there are no issues for a single card on PCI-E 2.0 lanes, including a nice overclock on the card. I'm almost certain there are only issues with SLI but does anyone know differently?
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Oct 10, 2014 07:00
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I don't think anyone has done a scaling article, but PCIe 2.0 x16 is the same bandwidth as PCIe 3.0 x8. Last generation's cards had next-to-zero performance loss at PCIe 2.0 x8/3.0 x4, and the 970 and 980 are not so different from the 780 Ti.
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Oct 10, 2014 07:15
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Cavauro posted:I'm thinking of upgrading to a GTX 970 but I want to confirm that there are no issues for a single card on PCI-E 2.0 lanes, including a nice overclock on the card. I'm almost certain there are only issues with SLI but does anyone know differently? 2.0 x16 is equivalent in bandwidth to 3.0 x8, which works perfectly fine.
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Oct 10, 2014 07:15
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Factory Factory posted:I don't think anyone has done a scaling article, but PCIe 2.0 x16 is the same bandwidth as PCIe 3.0 x8. Last generation's cards had next-to-zero performance loss at PCIe 2.0 x8/3.0 x4, and the 970 and 980 are not so different from the 780 Ti. The Lord Bude posted:2.0 x16 is equivalent in bandwidth to 3.0 x8, which works perfectly fine. I didn't realize 2.0 vs. 3.0 was such a clean difference. That technical savvy is what I was looking for to pull the trigger. Thanks guys.
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Oct 10, 2014 08:01
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Should I wait for the release of the 850 EVO or get the 840 EVO now?
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Oct 10, 2014 09:28
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Do you need it right this instant? Samsung just announced that they've ramped up to volume availability in the type of flash memory that they'll use in the 850 EVO, and rumor is we'll see a release after the 840 EVO fix on the 15th.
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Oct 10, 2014 10:01
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Not right now, preferably before CIV:BE drops. Just wondering if firmware issues will arise with 3D V-NAND drives if I adopt early.
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Oct 10, 2014 10:11
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You're asking us to predict an unforeseen problem?
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Oct 10, 2014 10:30
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Well in that case 840 EVO it is, somewhat sure the worst of its firmware problems are over.
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Oct 10, 2014 11:03
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Just finished my first build (holy crap it actually works!), managed to get everything installed fine but struggling to get any sound out of the thing. Motherboard is a gigabyte H87. Is this likely a driver problem? Or does sound need power on the motherboard?
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Oct 10, 2014 14:01
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