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Seat Safety Switch posted:This bike better be done the next time I'm up north. It'll be "done" before or on the Canada Day long weekend. Maybe I'll ride it down and we can toss those supertones on it. Update! Today was pay day, so carbsync tool and 6mm adapters ordered along with a universal DRC Edge 2. If the hardcases sell before mid next month, then I'll also order new rear shocks and the timing belt "kit".
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Jun 13, 2014 19:52
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Update! Sort of... Armed with my new MotionPro SyncPro, I set off attempting to sync the carburettors on the 'wing. The first step is to calibrate the SyncPro. This did not go as planned. The manual states that if the vacuum is greater than 40cm or 7.7psi - the fluid from the gauges will be sucked into the engine. This is exactly what has happened. I have less than half my original fluid left, maybe enough to sync - maybe not. Looks like I'm ordering the refill on Monday. In the mean time, I have a new problem to fix on the bike. Carburettor #3's vacuum is way to high. They're CV carbs so the more closed the plates are - the more vacuum, correct? So I should be able to adjust the main idle screw until the vacuum reading drops (I'll be picking up a single vacuum gauge tomorrow to help get #3's numbers down). Edit: gently caress it, riding the bike to CDN Tire right now. (Princess Auto doesn't list vacuum gauges on their website.) Double Edit: Something is up - vacuum gauge bounces between 50cm and 8psi at idle. No discernible vacuum leaks, so looks like I'm double checking the valves tomorrow. McTinkerson fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Jun 22, 2014 |
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Jun 22, 2014 00:40
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Before this you said the bike ran good and was reliable right? Maybe you're moving out of that sweet spot with old bikes where everything just works with blissful ignorance and you might be over fixing it. Like you do the basic maintenance get it safe and reliable but now you're digging too deep and the skeletons are coming out of the closet and you'll find yourself rebuilding everything and cutting your own gaskets out of cork paper.
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Jun 22, 2014 06:49
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Coredump posted:Before this you said the bike ran good and was reliable right? Maybe you're moving out of that sweet spot with old bikes where everything just works with blissful ignorance and you might be over fixing it. Like you do the basic maintenance get it safe and reliable but now you're digging too deep and the skeletons are coming out of the closet and you'll find yourself rebuilding everything and cutting your own gaskets out of cork paper. The bike always ran like poo poo below 3k rpm due to the carbs being, as discovered, seriously out of sync. It had the "Wing knock" real bad. I do agree with you to some extent though. I really really don't want to have to tear apart the timing belt/rad/water pump this season. Now that the forums are back - Update! Valves had all less than 0.02" of play (spec is 0.04" intake & 0.05" exhaust). Side covers off:   Valvetrain:   My first valve adjustment. I was impressed with how clean everything looked, no sludge, etc. Then again I have zero prior experience to compare with. Now that those are adjusted - I'm going to give the sync another try. It already starts much easier and idles better. The plan is to play with carb #1 because I think it's doing all the work between #1 & #3. See if I can get it to produce 20cm of vacuum like #3 @ 2.5k rpm. I now also have my vinyl & seat!     Off to the garage - I'm still on track for Canada Day completion.
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Jun 27, 2014 02:21
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Thanks to kitchen reno's taking priority - very little was done to the 'Wing on Canada day or the weekend prior. That doesn't mean that some progress has not been made. Those of you with a keen eye may have noticed that the image quality has improved slightly with the previous post - this is due to me making use of Amazon.ca's fathers day sale. My first attempt at something artsy:  It will never look like this again. The carbs are finally synced! Calibrating the SyncPro:  This is where I started:  And this is where I ended up after a couple hours:  The "Wing Knock" has 99% disappeared - there is a hint of it just off idle which I know is due to a stretched throttle cable. I'll attempt to adjust those when the tank is off getting wrapped in vinyl - which should be tonight or tomorrow. I have also pulled off the factory K/Q seat.   It's been dismantled since I wanted to see if it was worth it to try and modify the factory seat pan to mate up with the fiberglass tracker seat. Unfortunately that will not work due to the overhang of tracker seats rear mounting points blocking access to the factory seat pans mounting brackets.   I quite like the looks of it. The blinkers are also mounted up. I figure I'll wire those and the tail light once the seat is 100%. The new seat mounts in two spots. The rear is notched and gets sandwiched by the top shock mounts.(You can make out the factory sharpie marks for that in the second last picture) The front used a metal replica of the stock pan lip which slots into the fake tank. In addition, Hot Wing Glass also recommends adding two square "L" brackets to the front seat mount cross-member and bolting the front of the seat to those as well. I'm going to take a trip to home depot and see if I can find some hinges or any other metal that would be suitable tonight. Since the seat is fibreglass I definitely do not want to skip those.
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Jul 3, 2014 02:07
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Update: I am not good at wrapping items in vinyl. hosed up the side covers with many many creases. I'm going to attempt to wrap the seat and tank on the vehicle so they don't move around and wait until I can get a second set of hands. IF I can get a decent looking wrap on the tank and seat, then I'll re-wrap the side covers.
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Jul 5, 2014 03:50
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How should one go about attaching ABS plastic to fiberglass? I have tried industrial strength double sided tape, PL Premium and ABS Cement. So far, no luck. I think Epoxy might be next. Edit: If marine grade JB Weld doesn't hold it I'm bolting the fucker on, looks be damned. McTinkerson fucked around with this message at 04:12 on Jul 12, 2014 |
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Jul 12, 2014 03:21
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Rivets. If you can't do that, then epoxy. Not J-B weld -- that's got steel particles in it and in this case that would actually make for a poorer joint. Roughen up the bonding surface of both parts with 150 grit sandpaper, then mix up some standard slow-cure epoxy (the 5 minute stuff isn't super strong -- find something that takes at least 2 hours to set up) and clamp the joint after you've glued it. Really the best way is to use a mechanical fastener, though.
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Jul 12, 2014 05:30
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Epoxy worked like a charm. Hit both sides with 120 grit (I had it laying around), cleaned both sides with degreaser and isopropyl then stuck the tail light to the fender and let it cure overnight. Seat is now all mounted up. I also tried out another $50 paint alternative experiment. Plastidip. More specifically Blaze Pruple with a gold metalizer top coat. Zero prep to any body panels what so ever since a) I hate body work and b) I want to ride the drat thing.    Holy poo poo is this thing fun. Seat's mighty comfy too. Now that I know how the blaze purple looks over various darknesses of base coat, I will be removing the dip and hitting everything with etch primer and then plastidip again. Once it rains. In the mean time, riding the bike everywhere. It runs well - so time to make use of it. Edit: spelling
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Jul 14, 2014 03:45
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That looks great, clean as hell and the purple works great!
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Jul 15, 2014 18:52
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Minor update: Plastidip on this particular motorcycle due to ergonomics doesn't quite work. This is what my legs are doing to the seat:  And my heels are doing this to the side covers:  New paint scheme is in the works - I'll give you guys a hint (to the two goons who already know - no spoilers). It will be a play on Honda's sounding like sewing machines. Other than that, the rear air suspension only holds air for 72 hours, after which I need to pump it up again. Trivial, however I would like to replace the shocks over the winter. Where can I buy a decent set? So far, I have only found some 12" eye to eye universals from Parts-N-More. Racetech makes springs for the front however a custom set of Racetech rear coilovers aren't really worth it for this bike.
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Sep 21, 2014 01:09
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McTinkerson posted:New paint scheme is in the works Nooo! Let it get all tatty-looking and then put a decal on the tank saying "Let's get dangerous" problem solved.
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Nov 9, 2014 17:13
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Hm, sewing machines. Will it look like this?
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Nov 11, 2014 17:25
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McTinkerson posted:Minor update: Progressive Suspension makes rear shocks for GL1000s, it's what I have on mine.
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Nov 11, 2014 17:35
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| # ? May 4, 2024 22:11 |
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HotCanadianChick posted:Progressive Suspension makes rear shocks for GL1000s, it's what I have on mine. Excellent, the Progressive 412's look to be the ticket. Thanks. Dielectric, not a husky but you're on the right track.
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Nov 16, 2014 22:01
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