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Has anybody lived in an RV for a decent length of time? We are still trying to figure out logistics to relocate my wife and I and our two cats to Colorado. Lately we've had the very rash idea of selling all of our cars, buying a Class A motorhome and a toad hatchback, and just going. Serviceable ones seem to run about 4-9000 here in Arkansas depending on condition, and I can put a little more on top to put a shine on it. Is there some sort of middle ground between "old person RV park where you can't turn the TV past 1 or you get the manager banging on your door" and "just living in the woods, cooking meth and fighting bears naked" as far as lots/hookups go? Our ballpark time frame would be anywhere from 1-6 months in the RV, transitioning to a teeny tiny apartment after that. It's just a charming and fun idea, and seems like something that so many people wish they could do, but don't get a chance to until they're in their sixties -- we're dumping almost all of our possessions and do not want to own a home for _several_ years, no kids, hell, why not?
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May 20, 2014 17:57
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We're taking a look at a 1989 Pace Arrow 37J later today. 57K, "Preacher Owned", supposedly everything works, washer/dryer, it's ridiculous. No slides but for my price range we can't be too picky. This...this would definitely be a different roadtrip experience than the 540.
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May 21, 2014 14:55
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You know that wistful notion when you pass a neato RV just tooling down the highway and you get that daydream of just saying "gently caress it" and buying a big old behemoth and touring the nation, working just enough to put gas in your tank and steaks on the grill, visiting old and making new friends across the nation So, this just happened.  (Deal is done on a handshake cause we're the fuckin' South, I'm getting the 401k loan in the morning and it should be here by Tuesday, which I have taken off conveniently. i'll pay the 401k loan off with proceeds from the *sobs* BMW) all the specs I know right now: 1989 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 37J 37 feet length 454 Chevy drivetrain Tag axle (dead axle behind the drive axle, =15,000 lb towing capacity) The absolute best the preacher PO could ever get was 9.3 miles per gallon, average is 8 6kW Onan generator 100 gallon fuel tank 2x60 gallon freshwater tanks Propane/electric fridge/freezer Big shower with a real door and a skylight The bad: -One of the vent bubble windows on the roof is broken, there's been a tarp over it, there is no water damage and I've already found a $20 replacement -Carburetor. + to AI cred but - for high altitude driving. Will need to consider rejetting once we get to Denver. Megasquirt would be fun but I must be conservative for now, considering this is our home and needs good uptime -One messed up panel that has some lifted glue, the RV shop can sort it out like new for $300 -Master bedroom is set up with two twin beds (lol preacher PO). -90's as gently caress up in here. oak and brass. AAAAAAA. We are going to tear out the carpet and put in hardwood flooring, and probably paint the cabinets, and DEFINITELY redo all the wallpaper. -Backup camera is shot, big whoop its a janky old CRT, I'll replace with a $300 modern unit with an LCD. Until then I am not allowed to put it in reverse without a spotter cause oh god everything in our life just changed on a handshake with a friendly fella named Jim
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May 22, 2014 02:27
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So there are tons of boring parts about the scheme, involving boxes of hardwood and buckets of Kilz, and we'll get to that, but I'm more excited about the stuff on the tech side of the RV purchase/remodel. I'm planning to pick up: --New charger/converter - I hear the old stock ones in these are terrible, basically just diode-rectified AC, and not really high performance. A new Progressive Dynamics PD4655 looks like it will be a nice replacement. Rather than only feeding your house batteries 3 amps and relay-clunking the house 12v between battery and converter, these are meant to be hooked up with the house battery full time to the 12v system. Nice clean filtered DC - important as I have ham radio needs that need to be met in a 12 volt manner. --Batteries - Right now I'm thinking 4x Trojan T105, in series/parallel, should be pretty darn good - I believe the RV has two batteries stock right now, which I intend to exchange in as I don't know how they were treated. Battery budget is $500 and i'm pretty sure I can get T105's for 125 after tax here at the local battery shop. --Inverter - I don't need the ability to run appliances, so I can downsize and thus upgrade to pure sine. The Sunforce 1000w I found here looks good. I'll run this to a 4-slot mini panel on the side, and run outlets to the front and back TV's, one up by the booth for laptops, and one in the closet for the computer gear. As a bonus this unit has a wired remote, so I can mount this on the control panel with everything else and be able to hard cut the power to all the electronics, taking care of any TV/wall wart phantom power drains nicely. --Solar - I had originally brushed off solar, as I figured that it would be too expensive, but I found this little kit which looks pretty neat! I'm not expecting to get any significant A/C time for free or anything with it, but I'm thinking that a few constant amps is going to help just kind of stretch out time between generator/shore recharges, especially if I have stuff like a wifi AP and packet radio online 24/7, like I'm considering. Any thoughts? Good choices? Bad?
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May 26, 2014 06:49
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We pick up the motorhome today! So very excited. Seller was very patient with my loan wait, and has been nothing but friendly and forthcoming with info the whole time. Good feelin's.
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May 28, 2014 19:25
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Welcome to our "new" motorhome! sorta NWS i cuss a lot and make bad jokes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wfqVIrIELz4 Really excited to get started on renovation.
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May 30, 2014 02:18
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I have manuals to scan/post and details to provide, but suffice to say that last night I read through the four inches of manuals the PO carefully preserved in a three-ring binder, and learned that my Mystery Lever is a "Decel-O-Matic" gas engine brake. Has butterflies on the exhaust pipes and an intake carb bypass. When you let off the gas, it closes the valves and bypasses air around the carb, to the extent that the big lever is pulled. This isn't just for hills - they advise to use it in stop-and-go, whenever you want to save your brakes basically. Max braking power on a 454 is about 30 PSI of backpressure. In order to maintain this, they purchased the add-on "EZ-Oiler" system. This system is basically a solenoid and a tank full of MARVEL MYSTERY OIL - yes, they specify that in the book. To keep those exhaust butterflies flapping and your top end happy, they tell you at the end of the driving day to basically park, spray oil until, and I quote the manual, "significant smoke appears at tailpipes". So those things explain the scary lever and about six of these switches and lights - there are various arming and enabling switches for both those systems. This thing is so awesome.
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May 30, 2014 14:49
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From what I've read, Airstreams can pay off in the long run because the skin is so much more waterproof and doesn't require annual resealing on the level that fiberglass rigs do. Unless you trash it, you will be able to get your money out of it. Here in our town, we have several little empty lots around town that are designated "Trailer Business" areas and they're full of bored soccer moms in Airstreams running vintage clothing shops. Prices have gone up like 30% on the trailers in the past 2 years.
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May 30, 2014 16:32
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Think so? I was pondering trying that Rustoleum Kitchen Transformations kit, it's basically deglosser, stain and a glaze. "No Sanding". New drawer pulls and hardware all around, I think those will help too.
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May 30, 2014 19:43
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Today I cut down half a tree to fit the RV in the driveway, got it in (first try!) and promptly started ripping apart the dash. That speaker wire was the constant 12v for an alarm. After taking this pic, we have ripped out about six stupid accessories (clocks and compasses), the stereo, the CB, and a Viper alarm that wasn't even hooked up.
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May 31, 2014 22:27
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Oh yeah, there is no reason to skimp or hold off. I have more than the RV's price allocated for a renovation budget, and we have a month to clean it up, and the last 3 weeks of that I will be off work and can fulltime wrench. OK, so. I can't get it up on battery power but it has two 145 Trojans in the front. There are DPDT switches for "main" and "aux" batteries in the cabin, the main battery solenoid does a click-on-click-off, same when I hit the 'off' switch. Aux battery solenoid is silent both directions. Here's our "MAIN DISTRIBUTION PANEL - DISCONNECT BATTERIES BEFORE OPENING" (heh) under the hood.  There are two battery trays in one of the basements, with +/- battery cables that appear to go to the front, and then two that go to the next basement over to the.... CONVERTER A: Down in the basement is an Energenius EG3200G. I found the manual here. No clicks or anything when I hit the power button. CONVERTER B: Under the fridge is the stock Progressive Dynamics converter. Both of the converters have AC breaker panels and DC fuse panels. I don't believe the Energenius has DC rails hanging off of it, I am only seeing battery input and 120V out. I believe the main converter is feeding the Energenius AC, because on the Progressive Dynamics box there is a hand written "energenius" sticker on the last AC breaker. We've got some weirdo wiring here. Should be an adventure. e: I believe the Trojans have some juice, because the hydraulic pump for the jacks is wired straight to them, and they extend/retract.
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Jun 1, 2014 00:46
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Good Lord, that thing has like a 60 degree angle of approach. I love it!
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Jun 1, 2014 03:15
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I've got a basic idea of the motorhome wiring. I believe they added a second power converter (the Energenius) to run the microwave off inverter, as it's got a big old MSW inverter built in and the microwave oven 120V circuit is the only thing hanging off of it. The rest of the house AC and DC circuits are running off of the Progressive Dynamics box upstairs, which has a 30A breaker that used to be labeled "Microwave" and is now labeled "Energenius", which lines up with my theory. Paint time!  I really dislike how the two battery banks (the rear is currently empty) have 20 feet of cable between them, regardless of the gauge. I'd like to move all four to the rear. The plan is to replace this mess with a Progressive Dynamics PD4060 distribution panel that has a built in 12v 60a power supply. In front of this I'll run an automatic transfer switch. In addition to that, I need to figure out how to work in a ~1000W pure sine wave inverter, which I want to have available for laptops. What I was thinking about doing was something like this, its contingent on the wall outlets being on separate runs from the microwave/washer and air conditioning, but I expect that to be the case.  This way it would be impossible to overload the inverter with appliances, and we could just remote on/off the inverter to switch all of the coach outlets to inverted power for laptops or whatever. But if we had shore or generator power, we could pass that through.
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Jun 2, 2014 04:50
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My converter/panel has shipped! I havent gotten batteries yet but we've settled on 4x Energizer 6v ~220AH golf cart batteries from Sam's Club (we don't have Costco here) for $102 each after tax, picking them up tomorrow. Next best bid in town is $140 after tax each for Trojan 105's, so I'll save enough to pay for a good chunk of the solar subsystem. Started tearing up the carpet today, just basically going hog wild with a crowbar, box cutter and set of pliers for staples. HOW MANY STAPLES DO YOU NEED IN THIS CARPET? ALL OF THEM. We're going to keep the booth/table/bed thing, we talked about removing it, but without slides it'd be a minimal square footage gain, and the storage and extra sleep capacity won't hurt if we have a couple of drunk friends that refuse to spoon. Gotta pull the toilet tomorrow and get the carpet out of the bathroom (UGH WHO DOES THAT?)
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Jun 3, 2014 02:57
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thegasman2000 posted:So I am stumped. I read the instructions for the relay and its dead simple. Inputs in one side and outputs to both batteries on the other right. Well not really as I cannot for the life of me firgure out where the alternator output is as it disappears off into the loom. The starter motor is obvious as its triple the gauge cable, presumably i want this off the + and - terminals of the starter battery and not + and chassis earth. Is it a relatively modern alt? Its wire may hit a terminal block somewhere to tie into the hot side, that's why you're not finding the other end maybe.
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Jun 3, 2014 15:54
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News and such: I got the new power panel (Progressive Dynamics PD4060) wired in. Circuits to spare! Also a modern 55 amp switching supply instead of "transformer and some diodes" awful poo poo. Installed a transfer switch, too, nice and burly. I may salvage a second transfer switch to toggle the outlet circuits (thank god they're all on one line) between shore/generator and inverter. Purchased batteries, we're going with 4x Energizer golf cart batteries from Sam's club. I'm saving enough that I can buy Water Miser caps as well as some new jumpers between batteries, so I am perfectly happy with this decision. On the interior, carpet is out and I am moving along ripping out staples. Soooooo many staples. We have a couple of possible paints picked out (green family) and are waiting for a dry day or two to Kilz. May not happen for a whole week - gently caress you, weather.
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Jun 9, 2014 01:40
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We have 12V in the back! I got all the batteries in, only one bank is hooked up right now but I am seeing like no voltage sag even with 300w of lights on. Oh, this thing is full of 1141 bulbs which eat ~18 watts, the 2 watt LED panels I ordered should be in soon, that should be a pretty dramatic reduction in power consumption and heat - those incandescent pieces of crap run hot and a couple of the diffusers are heat-warped. I do have 250 mA draw when I throw the house on, so I want to trace that just to know where it's going - suspecting the LP gas detector. I ID'd the two mystery cables going to the house batteries too - one is for the genny starter (duh) and the other is for the isolation relay to allow you to start the thing off the house batteries if your main dies (double duh). I had to get a battery terminal with a couple bolt holes to split off all the cables, as there are like five cables on the house positive (rear battery bank, main relay, jacks, generator, isolator) and the new battery bolt studs weren't quite long enough. Haven't plugged in 120V yet even though I have it (I believe) wired up just fine. I'm concerned because I didn't trace out the fridge 120v power so I kind of want to go back in the morning and do that first before I throw breakers. BTW this thing has like a fuckin 40 foot power cord hardwired and a 30 foot extension, both 8/3. Tons o' copper, I like it.
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Jun 12, 2014 03:11
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Ah hah! Fridge on that circuit that up until now I only ID'd a single outlet on, in the kitchen. Assumed it was just for blenders and such. That works out perfectly though, lets me isolate the _rest_ of the outlets via a transfer switch and an inverter. Max switching flexibility! Yeah, i'm overdesigning the wiring from the get-go, might as well. e: Kind of funny how out of context, so far my posts in here are more DIY than AI
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Jun 12, 2014 20:03
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As requested! All puking storage compartment crap all over the driveway.  Most convenient way to store the couch while we do the floors  Power center - need to make a little trim panel to go around this  Gen/line transfer switch  Bedroom - taking the bed things apart. I'm going to Voltron them together into a centered queen frame - should be pretty easy, actually.  One of my favorite weird bits - this rear heater in the bed frame runs off engine coolant hardlines run alllllll the way back. Helps keep it from getting chilly on winter trips.  Bathroom lights 100%! Matter of fact, all interior lights are up. need to figure out why the basement storage lights aren't coming on, that's about it. 
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Jun 13, 2014 03:18
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IV8 wins - the little pigtails to all the door switches are cut. Guessing they started failing closed and they got direct with a solution. -- A little old man stopped by yesterday. He said that his name was Elwood and he lived down the street. He was a long-time RV'er but had to sell his stuff off. Well, almost all. You see, he kept his entire tow hardware setup - tow bar, brake controller, etc - and was wondering if I had one yet. He paid, gosh, he thinks seven or eight hundred dollars for it all, and he'd give it to me cheap.... Holy poo poo, a brake buddy alone is almost a grand. I may be about to make out like a fuckin' bandit. Update: Slapped some paint up (darker = cabinets, lighter = wall). The seatbelt is standing in for a brown that we're going to match to new fabric for the window cornices, and then do the cabinet doors in that brown. Earth tones all up in here. (I'm going to paint the trim, just an experiment) Test next to our flooring sample: 
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Jun 14, 2014 02:33
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We're goin yellow instead of that green, it's too pea-soup-ey. Anyways, god drat it, the PO has an Everstart 24MS battery in the chassis battery position. It's a "Marine" battery that only has 500 CCA. No wonder that 454 was so slow to turn over. Needs replaced with a conventional truck starting battery.
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Jun 14, 2014 18:07
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InterceptorV8 posted:WHOOT! What did I win?? Turns out that the LED option is way cheaper than I thought. _Every_ interior bulb in this thing is a standard 18W 1141 bulb, and I found a stateside source for these little LED panels that just have a pigtail that plugs in, and double stick tape on the back. So far I've bought ten and am totally happy, and will buy some more. 10 for $17.99 shipped and here in three days. When you start talking about 2.5W draw (my measurement) versus 18 watts per bulb, in a limited-capacity battery system, it's a no-brainer. Read the ice trick, it's clever and I will not forget. Speaking of shitters, I still have to pull the bathroom carpet,which I'm shy about because I have to pull the toilet, and I want to make sure I can get a replacement wax ring so I don't do the plumbing equivalent of loosening the diff drain plug before the fill plug. we're not doing the hardwood in there though, I'm just going to lay down linoleum and bend it up at the walls and affix it to them for a little bit of water-away-from-walls protection. Here's our latest paint test. We really like the pale (pale pale) green on the wall, and are now looking at the orangey peach and the blue (which wasnt 100% dry here). Both are pulled out of a fabric we got to recover the cornices (forgot to take a pic of that). Getting them one step off of flat, we don't want gloss. We want to do a much darker floor with this, some sort of mahogany range. Not black, but not red oak spectrum either. E: and brushed nickel hardware - though I'm not buying hinges, jesus they're $6 each and i'd need like 24. going to just clean, prime and paint them. 
Jonny 290 fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Jun 15, 2014 |
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Jun 15, 2014 00:13
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More sunshine! And a crazy dark floor! whatcha think? daylights gone sorry for the lovely iphone flash pic
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Jun 15, 2014 02:42
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Yellow as HELL. I gotta put some up next to the wall paint, see how that combo looks.
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Jun 15, 2014 03:54
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Wood certainly seems like a cozy and chill option for the heating, but the reality is that the logistics of that just don't work when you only have 200 square feet to work with. There is a *lot* that you could do to increase an RV's energy efficiency. Double-pane windows evidently help a ton, and don't forget that your floor is basically 1" marine grade plywood and then....nothing. Maybe a storage bin. You can get huge efficiency gains by just gluing a layer of 1" or so thick foam insulation to the underside of the floor, in every place you can get to. Yes, if you've been paying attention, this is a chance to insulate some stairs. After that, plumb in a small catalytic wall heater for base heating load (furnaces' LP consumption isn't the problem, it's the 8 amps for the blower, annoying lil drain) and you're burning half the LP of the guy next to you for the same comfort. Speaking of energy efficiency, I found these solar collector tubes last night. How cool would it be to build a little frame for these on the roof for use as a solar water heater?
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Jun 17, 2014 17:31
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Hahah, that is an ill setup. It needs some wizard graphics, though. --- Holy poo poo did I just get a deal. An old fella came by last week from down the street, he used to RV but sold all his gear but his tow setup. I stopped by a minute ago and scored a Brake Buddy and a Roadmaster Blackhawk tow bar for five hundred bucks. Cheapest internet price on those two items is ~1800. All I need now is a toad! There's a '99 CR-V in town for $2k that we might look at this week.
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Jun 18, 2014 00:20
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Bad pics, apologies... primer up (1 coat, doing 2)   
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Jun 19, 2014 04:19
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Found the two hidden bolts that held the front TV down. It's out. And, after I removed that, I noticed on the 12v wall plate a red LED,and a switch. Ha! I found the phantom 12V load - the antenna amplifier! Rained today so I wasnt able to paint. Tomorrow we go and get paint for walls and cabinets, so we can get paint up so we can lay flooring. After that we can reinstall the couch - its currently balanced on the front seats cause its too big to get thru the door. Once I can move it out of the way, I can then mount *drumroll* the TV i bought today. Samsung 28" 720p - I don't care about 1080p at that size, and we determined that a 32" would be too tall and we'd bonk our heads on the corners getting out of our front seats going back into the cabin. Anyways, the current to-do list in no particular order, I'm sure i'm missing some poo poo: -paint (cabinets, walls, cabinet doors/drawers) -new cabinet knobs and handles -find some primer and brushed nickel-esque paint that we can hit the hinges with because gently caress buying 30 brushed nickel hinges at four bucks a pop -hit the light fixture housings with that same paint, i think it will look neat -paint interior a/c housings and vent trim (probably the cabinet drawer blue) -paint bottom panel of screen door (ooogly orange) -floors --figure out baseboard molding -reinstall couch/3rd chair -finish re-covering window cornices, reinstall -pull bathroom toilet --so we can pull the carpet -lay down some decent cheap linoleum something in the bathroom -buy more LED lighting -mount TV -Figure out some sort of media player. I was looking at a roku3 but now I am thinking of getting an intel NUC and a 2.4ghz remote -run cat5e/cat6 everywhere from the network cabinet (little corner cabinet in the hall, not good for anything else) -buy some eternabond tape and reseal the roof seams -buy a buttload of beige non leveling RV sealant and redo the sides -(possibly) plastidip that red on the outside to a black stripe -check appliances, fire everything up -service generator (points/oil/so on) -put dash back together -figure out stereo. wife's jeep has a pretty sweet Sony head unit, may use that. Moving my 10" with 320w sub over - not huge but it'll be nice. Wanna buy some hella 6x9's to replace the sorta meh cabin speakers. The bedroom will be a simple setup, my 70's JVC receiver and my decent Sony bookshelves mounted on wall brackets. it's really not much to do at all! Jonny 290 fucked around with this message at 03:01 on Jun 23, 2014 |
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Jun 23, 2014 02:48
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Gettin' some floor in. note that paint/trim not done obviously
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Jun 26, 2014 04:04
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Ooh, thanks for reminding me to re-connect the park cable drop - it terminates back by the other utilities, need to ensure it works. And yeah, those amplified old school heads should do okay for most channels. If it ends up being lovely, Winegard makes a designed-for-DTV head that bolts right up to our lift system, 50 bucks iirc. After I finish the floor, the lady is going to get started painting while I start running CAT5/CAT6. To be honest, I hate wireless and avoid it when possible. I was fortunate enough to have a previous job that gave me a hookup on spool ends, so i have like 30-50 runs of 5, 5e and 6, between 60 and 100 feet in length. We'll have a central patch panel with the router and all that in the middle. One thing that I want to do is be able to patch up and run HDMI over Ethernet between the front and back of the house. This generally requires two runs, add in a third for a media player box and we might as well run four to each TV, because running 4 runs of cat5 is exactly as hard as running 1, and I have the materials. Then I want two up by the dash (it'll be my ham radio desk as well), one on each side of the living area, two in the bedroom and two to outside. 16 runs, I have a 24 port panel, should have plenty of room. Right now I have an 8 port gig switch, so we'll have more drops than ports, but not a big deal at all, Ethernet will be a relatively fixed setup and we won't be constantly repatching. Heavily leaning towards the Ubiquity nanostation loco m2 for our wifi-stealin'. I figure I can put it up on a 6 -> 12 foot extending paint pole mounted to the ladder, and pop it up. It's not an omni, it has a pie-slice pattern so we can rotate it to kill interference or home in on a good signal. NAS duties will be my old trusty 4-bay Synology, with new drives. Looking at two of the 2TB WD Reds to start. This will be the only thing with platters in the RV, I kind of want to figure out how to shock mount it.
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Jun 26, 2014 18:28
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I got a couple back there in the thread when I put in the wiring panel, I need to get a good diagram and all. Hey, turns out amplified rooftop antennas work a lot better when the coax on the roof isn't cut! Patched that up real quick to test and I got the antenna to swivel, too, so it can be aimed (north/south here brings in like four more channels). 
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Jun 26, 2014 20:47
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Fresh round of gadgets ordered. WD TV Live (rev3), Netgear WNR3700 v2 (dece reviews, 2.4/5ghz and can eat dd-wrt) and a Ubiquiti Nanostation loco m2 for wifi leechin'. code:
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Jun 27, 2014 17:55
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Hell yeah, tear all that poo poo out. Lots of work ahead but it's going to be great. Since you're ripping out so much I'd strongly think to nuke and redo as much of the infrastructure as you can with modern materials. GFCI protection (if redoing the 110V - DEFINITELY rip that surface mount poo poo out no matter what) and add anything else in that you think you might want.
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Jun 29, 2014 01:00
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Cabinet paint is up. One coat or two? I'm not sure yet. They're primed really well. Pulled down the awning - it has pinholes right by the RV body, but that's fixable easy, the mechanism all works. A little mildewy but the instructions literally say "slosh bleach water on that thing, roll it up to work it around, wait 10 mins and then pull it all the way out, hose off and air dry" so I'll just go with that
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Jun 29, 2014 21:58
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Getting through the insanely work intensive cabinet painting process.  Also, check out our wifi leechin' setup:  the sodium streetlamp gives it a rather FBI Surveillance Van vibe
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Jul 7, 2014 05:19
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revmoo posted:Is that Wifi setup directional and do you have a method to rotate it? Yeah, it's got about an 8 dBi internal antenna. It's not an omnidirectional antenna, but it's not super-focused either - basically about a pie slice or so. The pole slides up and then twistlocks into position wherever you point it. There's a signal strength LED bar on the back of the AP OR you can put it in a 'signal finder' mode where the actual AP emits a little tone that goes up and down proportional to signal strength, if you can't see the LEDs.
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Jul 7, 2014 18:57
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Powershift hell yes  I haven't seen the 33 floor plan, i like that angled bit in the kitchen.As far as mileage on the class A gassers, my PO said his record was 9.3 on the way out to Cali, and averaged 7.5 to 8 (0.5 mpg makes a difference down at this end).
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Jul 13, 2014 19:15
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Ferremit posted:
That looks fun as hell! SuperDucky posted:A fire of some sort has taken out all the 12v wiring between the chassis and the house. This isn't gonna be fun. That does not! when rewiring the hausbus i was so paranoid about shorts and phantom drains that I built a little rig to allow me to test unknown circuits, basically let me first put in a fuse to make sure it wasn't dead-shorting, then let me put my ammeter in line to see if it was going to draw juice unexpectedly. At least you get to do a proper rewire job, silver lining?
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Jul 15, 2014 02:51
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Paint on the walls, put up a cornice, starting to feel good about the whole thang. e: argh that paint spot
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Jul 16, 2014 00:39
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I've located a pretty well regarded RV self-storage facility in Denver, so even if we get an apartment (which is kind of the way it's leaning, given my rad new permanent position) we can keep it in town for $70 a month, and the place is guarded, camera'd and open 24/7 so we can just pick it up and drop off as we please. So no matter what happens we'll be keeping her at least for a year!
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Jul 16, 2014 20:52
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