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FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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You can view your lists in the Google Home app, which is actually just a link to a webpage, which you can then bookmark.

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FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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The default list is shopping list and you can get it at this URL: https://shoppinglist.google.com (from phone or desktop). Not sure about multiple lists, I thought I'd read in documentation that multiple lists were no longer supported, but I think that was a bit before that article was posted.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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I'd like to get a smart lock, but not one that's too smart. We've got some friends that have gone all in on the smart home and it can be a bit annoying at times not having any non-smart way to interact with the device. So for a smart lock I'm thinking something that still takes a key but I'd also like the ability to lock the doors or check if the doors are locked via app or Google Home. And from what little research I've done, I've basically described Schlage, but maybe there are others to look at? But with something like door security, I want to be really sure it's secure and made by a reputable company (both from the lock mechanism perspective, and the longevity of hardware/software support).

I don't have anything like Home Assistant running right now, and if I did ever implement that, I'd want to make sure that there would be some base line amount of functionality if/when I break it, or my wife would get very mad at me.

E: I guess I'm also interested in celling fan controls, and who knows how many other things, but right now I basically know nothing, is there some resource I can read to try and get myself up to speed, rather than relying on the forums (and a whole bunch of DIY threads, as a new home owner) to teach me everything?

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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For some E/N but perfectly valid reasons, the piece of mind of being able to know the door is locked, and knowing it's "secure" is very important to my wife. I'm sort of talking myself into some of the smart feature as well (with the analog backup of a key). Setting a code for a house cleaner or someone else to come in and be notified when they do would be nice. And since we just bought the house we do want to change out all the locks anyway, so getting brand new stuff isn't a problem.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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OK, I feel like I'm losing my mind trying to find a smart lock that will do what I want it to do. Schlage has so many weird combinations of products and integrations that I have no idea what talks to what anymore.

I want a lock that I can control via my Google Voice Assistant, namely checking if the doors are locked and locking them. I'd like to integrate that with routines so we don't go have to go through a checklist of things every night. Schlage has some kind of support for Google Home, but it's not really clear what form that takes. Their wifi lock will integrate with Google Home via the Schlage Home app. Their Z-wave lock says it supports Google Home via Nexia, but it doesn't list any support for Nexia, so that feels like some outdated information. Smartthings integration with Google Home doesn't seem to include lock devices, so even though the lock will integrate with SmartThings, and SmartThings will integrate with Google Home, it doesn't appear that I could control a Z-wave lock with my voice using SmartThings as an intermediary.

Though Schlage does say on another page that the Schlage locks can be integrated with Google assistant. The Z-wave lock requires the Nexia App on the phone, whereas the locks that connect via Wifi require just the Schlage App to setup the routine. So maybe I can do what I want, just as long as I don't get the Z-Wave lock and instead get one of their Wifi locks.

The Google Nest x Yale lock also says it supports routines, but I would prefer something with a key, and I can't find much information on Yale capabilities for any other Smart locks. And Schlage seems to have a more secure key lock, so I'd prefer that.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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FISHMANPET posted:

OK, I feel like I'm losing my mind trying to find a smart lock that will do what I want it to do. Schlage has so many weird combinations of products and integrations that I have no idea what talks to what anymore.

I want a lock that I can control via my Google Voice Assistant, namely checking if the doors are locked and locking them. I'd like to integrate that with routines so we don't go have to go through a checklist of things every night. Schlage has some kind of support for Google Home, but it's not really clear what form that takes. Their wifi lock will integrate with Google Home via the Schlage Home app. Their Z-wave lock says it supports Google Home via Nexia, but it doesn't list any support for Nexia, so that feels like some outdated information. Smartthings integration with Google Home doesn't seem to include lock devices, so even though the lock will integrate with SmartThings, and SmartThings will integrate with Google Home, it doesn't appear that I could control a Z-wave lock with my voice using SmartThings as an intermediary.

Though Schlage does say on another page that the Schlage locks can be integrated with Google assistant. The Z-wave lock requires the Nexia App on the phone, whereas the locks that connect via Wifi require just the Schlage App to setup the routine. So maybe I can do what I want, just as long as I don't get the Z-Wave lock and instead get one of their Wifi locks.

The Google Nest x Yale lock also says it supports routines, but I would prefer something with a key, and I can't find much information on Yale capabilities for any other Smart locks. And Schlage seems to have a more secure key lock, so I'd prefer that.

After my mini-spiral, I felt pretty confident in the capabilities after finding that January 2020 blog post. So I bought two Sense locks and the Sense Wifi Adapter this weekend and installed them. Trip report: I can use them in Google Home and with routines. I can ask Google to "Lock the back door" or "lock the front door" or "is the front door/back door locked" as I expected. I also made a routine that asks if the doors are locked, but I discovered that I don't even need a routine for that, "Lock the doors" will lock both doors, and "are the doors locked" will report on the status of both doors.

Now onto my next automation/security problem, the garage door and the curious case of the 888LM/889LM.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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No Nexia involved, it works directly with Google Home. That was the part that was really confusing to me initially. It looks like If you want Google Home Support, without anything else, you need Wifi, which means either the Encode (connects to Wifi directly) or the Sense (which connects via the Sense adapter). The Connect Z-Wave is what appears to require the Nexia subscription if you want Google Home integration. The Connect Zigbee doesn't support Google Home at all it looks like. And if you go with the "Connected Keypads" those are Z-Wave only, so the same requirements as the Connect Z-Wave.

I just needed to connect both locks up to the Schlage Home app on my phone, and then I was able to login to Schlage Home in the Google Home app to add the two locks as devices in Google home.

Having put it all together it sort of makes sense, the devices need some way to communicate with the Schlage Home cloud (which is actually run by Yonomi I believe). So if the devices can get Wifi, they can connect to Yonomi. But if they don't have Wifi, they need some way to communicate with Yonomi, and it looks like the Nexia platform is the only supported way to do that.

I've seen other hacks as I've looked around, you can make "virtual locks" in Home assistant and link them to the real locks, and then integrate voice control to control them there. It's also apparently possible to get the Connects paired with Home Assistant directly, but it's not documented. I think you might also be able to do some of that magic with Smartthings, and possibly other Z-Wave platforms.

But I wanted this as simple as possible, and doing the Sense + Wifi Adapter made the most sense for me. The Wifi Adapter supports 2 locks, and I had exactly 2 doors. And it communicates with the lock via Bluetooth, so it needs to put in a place that it can communicate with both locks. And my house is small enough that I was able to find a spot.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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What benefit does that provide over a regular switch? I assumed you had to hold the button to run the disposal but reading the comments it appears it's a "toggle" similar to a normal light switch.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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Well not sure if it's a cost effective way for you to do it, but I just had my house rewired and the electricians replaced a pair of 3-way switches with a Lutron Caseta switch - one switch is actually connected to power and does the switching, the other switch connects to the first via "RF" to control it. I think you'd have to get a Caseta hub and hook it up to Google Home with the Lutron app, but it's an option

Though, I came here to ask if anyone has thoughts on Caseta and using it for smart switches. I'm guessing it's not very "popular" around here because it's its own proprietary radio system. But I do like the fact that it can operate completely independently of any actual smart home system. I'm not sure if you could program a pair of Z-wave switches to talk to each other like the Caseta switches do.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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Oh wow, I feel like I've been lurking here for ages on-and-off and don't remember seeing a mention of them, but according to search they come up quite a bit.

Definitely a fan of even having just the pair now. 3-way switches set off some minor OCD so I'd often end up running around turning lights on and off in an elaborate order to not end up with the 3-way switches in "weird" (both up while the lots are off, or one up one down while they're off) positions, so this has taken care of that entirely. And really my two major requirements for anything smart in the home is 1) can I still use it if all the Smart stuff is broken and 2) can I use it with Google Home, and Caseta ticks both of those boxes.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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I've got a light in the hallway at the top of the stairs, that's what's on the Caseta now. It illuminates the top of the stairs, but they make a 90 degree turn and so it doesn't really light up the bottom half of the stairs. But the light at the bottom of the stairs does! So now I'm very strongly considering replacing the regular toggle switch for the light at the bottom with a Caseta switch, and putting a wireless Caseta at the top of the stairs next to the hallway switch, so I can control both from either place.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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I've been doing a lot of ceiling fan thinking (as evidenced if you follow the DIY electrical thread). It seems like, for getting smart with ceiling fans, there are two options. You can Caseta everything, requiring two switches for each fan/light combo (fan controller doesn't control the light, so need a separate light controller). Or you can go the Bond Home route.

Bond has a hub that will communicate over RF with ceiling fans using universal remotes, but there's no state for the light with those or discrete on/off functions, so you can't use smart home stuff to turn a light "on" or "off" or know if it's on or off, just toggle it.

There is a wi-fi enabled remote you can get. It seems like a bummer to have another wifi device for every single fan, but at $60 a fan it's a lot cheaper than $120 + bigger outlet box + wiring per fan to get all the Caseta stuff working. And trying to find a "universal" receiver that will send discrete light-on/light-off appears to be a fools errand to the point where a Bond employee is even saying don't bother, just get the Universal Wifi kit from Home Depot.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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Right now we just have 2 ceiling fans, each of them powered by a single switch and then controlled with pull cords. But there's the potential to install 2-3 more to replace existing lights in our bedrooms. And then we're looking at putting a couple out on the porch as well. And I'd really like the porch ones to be smart so I can light up the whole porch on command if needed. So a lot of it right now is, at least if I'm not going to install 7 ceiling fans and make them smart tomorrow, how can I wire things so that I could potentially make them smart when the time comes.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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I believe the Caseta hub is just for Caseta, nothing else. And that Caseta devices can only talk to the Caseta hub. They're not using a standard like Zwave or Zigbee.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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I purchased a new porch light that has the LED integrated into the fixture itself, and I'd like to make it "smart" so I need some kind of relay/switch that I can wire in directly at the lamp to control it. I found some relays made by Sonoff that are pretty inexpensive, any other recommendations?

My porch may be what finally gets me to setup HA, I'll have two fans, both with lights, another porch light, and two runs of string lights, that I want to all be smart, plus an empty spot in a switch box that I'd like to install a switch that will turn on all the lights.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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How concerned should I be that something like this doesn't have any kind of UL or ETL listing? Especially if I'm going to be putting it in my porch ceiling, to control a fixture there.

I've got a light that has an integrated LED light (so no bulbs) that I want directly connected to power without a switch, and the ability to make it smart, without a physical switch on a wall. I've found something like that, but the only other thing I can think of doing is just getting the cheapest UL listed wifi-switch and wiring it in and just pushing it up through a hole in the ceiling into the porch where I never see the actual physical switch, but can still control it via wifi (or Zwave, or Zigbee, or something).

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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Hmm, that's a good point. It's a porch light, which is controlled by a switch inside the house. But we went a little wild and did some more work on the porch fed from that wire, so now that switch controls power to the porch light, 2 fans on the porch, and some outlets.

I keep getting braver and braver with my wiring ability, so maybe I'll pull some more wire and get things put on some switches... somewhere.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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Yup, currently the light, the 2 fans (that each have their own light) and all the outlets are controlled by that specific switch. And yeah it sucks, but it was the easiest way to do it when we did the work last week. I'd also thought we'd purchased a porch light that took lightbulbs, so my plan was to just leave the switch on, get smart light bulbs for that fixture, and smart controllers for the fans. And 2 of the outlets are for string lights around the porch, so smart plug controllers for those as well. This is all for a covered and screened-in porch.

Then as we were installing the fixture we realized it was an integrated LED so no ability to make it smart inside. Well, ok, on the inside you can see the LED controller so in theory I could snip those wires and put in a low voltage version of what I found above, but that seems filled with even more unknowns.

We had the house rewired last month, so I know exactly how the porch is wired, from the exposed basement, up a hole in the wall, into an outlet box, then up to the ceiling. Where there are 5 holes in the ceiling that were used to pull the wire across the ceiling out into the porch. I'm pretty confident I can use that path to pull a new wire out onto porch. So I did some thinking last night and this morning about what I actually want out there.

First, I want all illumination to be "smart" in that I can control it with Google Home or Home Assistant. For example, "hey google, light up the porch" or if there's motion detected inside the porch, or someone rings the doorbell, Turn everything on. As much voice/app control of everything else is good as well - I don't think I want any switches actually out there on the porch. But we always have our phones, and frequently when we sit out there, we bring a battery-powered Google Home, so that kind of access is always available to us.

So now what I'm thinking. Leave the simple porch light on the current switch (but replace it with some kind of smart switch). Bring up a new romex cable to the porch (possibly on its own circuit) to bring power to the outlets and the fans. I might run that as a brand new circuit all the way back to the breaker, in which case the breaker would be the only switch on that circuit. Or if I tie it into the existing circuit, maybe just stick a switch in the basement to cut power if I need to, without killing all the lights inside the house. And I may or may not move the porch light from the "inside lights" circuit to the "porch" circuit if I do put in a new circuit. The outlets and the fan would just always be powered. I'd get this smart controller for the fans, so there would be physical remotes as well as integration with all sorts of smart stuff. The string lights would be plugged into smart outlets to control their power (lol, I got some Wyze outlets and just discovered they're not supported with Home Assistant).

That doesn't require burrowing any new holes in my walls or installing new switches, but still leaves that one light switched.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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The electricians rewired the porch light (we previously had knob & tube so they redid everything). Then last week my FIL and I did a bunch of work, and just pigtailed off the wire feeding the porch light, and used that to feed everything else on the porch (the fans and the outlets, in addition to the existing porch light). Things aren't wide open currently, so I have the ability with fish tapes and existing openings to run some things, but it's not like I've currently got wide open bare stud walls that I can easily do anything in.

Because the fans will have a smart controller in them, I don't really want them switched in the traditional sense. If the light switch is off, then the smart control won't work, and that means I can't have my goal of "automation can turn on every light if needed." I could wire just the lights to smart switches, but then I'm running a bunch more cable to new switches and new holes in the wall (and because of the number of existing switches and location of the porch light switch, the fan switches would probably be in a completely different location) and spending money on switches, when I'm already planning on buying a remote that includes the ability to control the lights. I'd probably mount the remotes in the same place as I'd put a switch so it's functionally the same to me. I can't find anything, code or otherwise, that says a ceiling fan/light combo requires a switch, especially when there's already an existing switched fixture in the space (but if I'm wrong about that I'll want to do something different). I will say though, your insistence that I install a switch is really making me think. Also making me think: that wifi controller I was looking at is rated for indoor use only (not damp locations, which a screened-in porch technically is, even if the odds of water getting up there are virtually zero). And the instructions recommend installing it on a switched fan anyway.

This is what I love about SA, everybody is happy to call you a dumbass when you're being a dumbass. I'll need to do some more thinking, and talk with the spouse some more about what we want to do out there. Maybe the smart stuff is making things needlessly complicated, and I should just run some more wire through the existing conduit (once you're on the porch itself nearly everything is run in conduit) and just put a couple of dumb switches outside in some in-use boxes.

Does anyone by chance have experience with Caseta switches in cold climates? Technically they're rated down to 32 F, but I live in Minnesota where it can get much colder. I've seen a few reports of people saying they've put them in garages in such in similar cold climates, and in fact our electrician installed one in our back porch, so maybe they'll still work as it gets colder.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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I think even without the "smart" stuff, the porch light would still be controllable by the standard existing switch, and the fans would be controllable by the "dumb" remotes that come with the "smart" controller, and also without all those, they would still have pull cords. But I think you've both talked me into putting a couple of switches into the porch, one for each fan. For now, just doing a dumb single pole switch for each, but putting in wire and conduit and boxes such that if I wanted to put in distinct smart switches for each light and each fan in the future I could do that.

E: When Motronic tells you you've hosed up, you know you've hosed up.

FISHMANPET fucked around with this message at 18:01 on Sep 1, 2021

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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The SD standard now includes an Application Performance Class, the HA docs recommend an A2 card. Looking at my local Microcenter they only have 3 A2 cards vs the sea of non-application cards they have. Looking at the description of Application Performance Class, it's not clear that an A2 rated card will handle the volume of writes vs it just being about random read/write throughput.

https://www.sdcard.org/developers/sd-standard-overview/application-performance-class/

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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movax posted:

I've been putting off smart door locks for awhile, because I've been planning on replacing my front door... anyways, it's been almost 18 months and that has not happened yet.

I'm looking for something that:
  • always allows for a mechanical key as a failsafe if battery is dead / no internet. Has to be a loving lock above all else.
  • HomeKit compatible directly, or via HomeBridge Plugin
  • Alexa-integration a plus
  • Functions in the total absence of Internet connectivity / doesn't have blog posts from pen-testers mocking how terrible it is
  • No (current) need to support frequent guest users / AirBnB-type operation.

I do have a functional security system as a fallback / defending against literally breaking down the door, as a fail-safe. That's a wired contact sensor run to a 5800C2W converter which links up to my Lyric and is connected to HomeKit, so I have positive state knowledge of the door.

The Level Lock (Touch) seems very slick and meets most of the above, and some of its misses I can fill in with my other systems. Any thoughts?

Also, just spitballing here... my doorframe is 'wired' up already with a path for the door contact sensor + my G4 doorbell. I don't like batteries out of principle as they are consumables and the planet could use a break. How insane am I if I try to electrify the actual deadbolt / rig up some kind of wireless power transfer system + replace the battery in the unit with a supercap? Anyone try something like that before? Just seems like a fun engineering project and if it already runs "for a year" off a CR2 battery, I don't need that much power.

Have you looked at Schlage? My smart locks have a physical key slot, and doesn't require anything external for me to actually use it. Not sure about HomeKit and/or Alexa, I've got mine paired with Google Home, they've got a few different products with different connectivity (Bluetooth, Wifi, ZWave, Zigbee) with slightly different compatibility with smart services. I went with the Bluetooth version paired with a wifi adapter (because that was cheaper than 2 wifi locks).

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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I can't find any info on this one way or the other, can anyone with Casetta on/off switches (so not the dimmers) confirm that they just switch on and off, rather than fading on and off like the dimmers do?

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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redreader posted:

edit: also since I am a new owner I am interested in home automation. The thing I want the most currently is a 'garage door is open' indicator inside the house. Like a light that's on when it's open, or that starts beeping if it's open for more than 5 minutes. I can write code in most scripting languages but I have no hardware knowledge. One time the garage was open for about 4 hours because someone had the opener in their pocket while doing household tasks, and another time my wife drove away by mistake without closing it. Nothing was stolen of course but I like the garage to be closed at all times when I'm not using it.

I had a perfectly good LiftMaster opener, but I also had a tendency to leave my garage door open or open it by accident when my keys (with opener) are in my pocket. And because of that, I had ~$1200 of bikes stolen out of my garage when I left it open one night. I'd been trying to retrofit the existing opener with a smart controller from LiftMaster, but it never worked out. When I bought the house earlier this year (had been renting it for 6 years before hand) I decided to treat myself to a new opener that was smart out of the box. I also ended up getting the nicest opener my store sold, because it had the nicest wall control (an 880LMW). The smart stuff is nice, but what's really great is that fancy wall control, where I can do stuff like set it to auto-close after 5 minutes. Liftmaster was/is in the middle of a product refresh, so I ended up getting mine on clearance for $245. Looks like right now the 87802 or 87504-267 have the nice controller, though no idea how much those cost.

I have no idea how well it would integrate with something like Home Assistant, and I've seen DIY hardware things you can do to retrofit on an existing opener, but you might like the piece of mind of just replacing the opener with something that will solve your problems out of the box.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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Henrik Zetterberg posted:

It’s funny that buying a Caseta starter kit is cheaper than just buying a dimmer or two and Picos separately. I’m going to have a stack of hubs by the end of replacing everything.

If you are ending up with extra Caseta hubs, any interest in offloading one? Because of the colors I'm using (primarily ivory in the house) the starter kits aren't really useful for me, or I'm getting some random starter kit where the price is way marked up beyond the prices of the individual components.

Also, with or without hubs, is it possible to get two switches to trigger each other? I've got a set of backyard lights powered by/switched in the garage, and another set of lights powered by/switched in the house. I don't think there's ever a case where I'd want one set of lights but not the other, I'd really just want either all the lights on, or all the lights off. Is that something I can do (and without breaking Motoronic's very good rule of not doing automation that only works with a phone)?

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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I got some Feit Electric cameras a little while ago and set them up in the Feit Electric app a few months ago. Then I got some "LaView" cameras on black Friday and I was surprised but not shocked to learn that since they're both Tuya, that I could load them into my Feit Electric app instead of setting up another app. But then imagine my surprise that I can just get the Tuya Smart Life app and load all my Tuya devices, regardless of manufacturer, into the same app!

And the reason I discovered that is by reading the Tuya integration section on Home Assistant, which means I can integrate these if I ever decided to setup HA.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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I realize this violates Motoronic's rule of automation, but is there some kind of switch/button/trigger that can be installed in place of a standard switch, that doesn't actually "switch" anything, but just exists to send a signal to something like Home Assistant to trigger something?

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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My 113 year old house has all sorts of messed up stuff that makes every little project 10 times more difficult. But somehow, mercifully, the doors are installed perfectly and the deadbolt never rubs throughout the year. And this is in Minnesota with our wild temperature extremes, I've got a number of interior doors that change so much throughout the year that for parts of the year they won't even latch. But the two entry doors are perfect.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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I'm resisting the urge to Caseta every single switch in the house, but I spent the weekend installing a Caseta switch in the garage to control some lights that are powered off the garage to light up the backyard (had to do quite a bit else to get a neutral to the box) and I slapped that pico remote inside the house and it feels like magic to control that light in the house without running any extra wire.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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One of my hang-ups is that I miss tactile-ness of a standard switch, I miss being able to grope in the dark along the wall until I can feel the switch and know easily I can grope up to turn it on or grope down to turn it off. I don't even really like Decora switches for that reason. I also wish they had a better offering for ceiling fans. You can buy single gang switches that can control both the light and the fan, but if you want to do it with Caseta you need two devices and 2 gang. I've actually considered getting a Caseta switch to control the ceiling fan in my office. The speed control is directly above where I sit so it's easy enough to reach up and adjust the fan speed or turn the light on or off, but it might be nice to get the Caseta to control the whole thing and at least be able to turn it on or off with my voice (if I get the bridge...).

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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So I'm back on a quest to make my ceiling fans smart. I was originally looking at a Bond universal adapter but it appears to no longer be available (not the universal RF adapter, but a device you attached to the fan itself.

I ordered this and I'm going to try it out. But it means yet another app to control it, though it supports Google Home which is what I'd ultimately use anyway.

I also found this, which I like because it uses Smart Life/Tuya so I already have that app. Plus it's half the price of the Hampton Bay option. I don't see any mention of UL/ETL listing on that (or any other clone on Amazon) but it seems like that receiver that connects to the fan is a pretty standard part that they're all going to be identical and commodity. But then again that doesn't mean that it's not poorly constructed in a way that's dangerous! No mention of listing on the Hampton Bay remote, but I'm assuming it has some certification, or if nothing else Home Depot putting their house brand name (Hampton Bay) on it tells me they've got some confidence in its quality.

Would I be crazy to buy one of the $30 units and give it a try?

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

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Steel Beams
Is that RF between the keypad and the fan, and then Zwave between the keypad and your automation system?

I installed a new fan last week with a wifi remote from Home Depot. My last post has a link to it. It uses Yet Another Cloud Service so that is a downside to it, but since I don't currently have anything like Home Assistant and am just relying on Google Home integrations, it works well enough for me. Does light dimming and four fan speeds. Also requires installing the control unit inside the fan, but that's pretty standard.

Biggest downside is that the whole thing is powered by a dumb light switch, and so if you flip the switch (which has been our habit for 7 years) you can't control the fan anymore. It's less than ideal, but I'm gonna get one of those switch blockers and mount the remote on the wall where the switch is.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
Feit uses Tuya for their smart products. However I don't think that LED Panel is "smart" in the traditional sense. It looks like OneSync products can communicate with each other so that you can control multiple OneSync light fixtures with a single OneSync switch, all wirelessly, but there doesn't appear to be any kind of interface beyond their products. They probably can't figure out how to make it interface with Tuya, so they just haven't bothered to make it smart capable.

E: I'm an idiot, I found the smart gateway. It uses the Feit electric app, so yeah it's Tuya. And probably no easy way to use something like Home Assistant to communicate directly with the OneSync devices without using the Tuya cloud.

FISHMANPET fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Apr 29, 2022

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
I have one as well, but I'm not sure it's worth what they're charging now. They were i the middle of refreshing all their models when I got mine, so I got the last-generation model for like $250. It's belt drive with Myq and an LED control panel that shows me the temperature and lets me set some auto-close settings on the door. I got it off the shelf at Menards, and when I look at what they have now, none of them have the nice keypad I have, and they cost way more money.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
We put one in my mom's house when she built it, and then she basically immediately sold the house, but it was nice to have everything in a little cabin, even if that cabinet was in the back of a storeroom.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
I like my Schlages. I trust that they won't just pack up and leave, at least. I mean, it's the Schlage app that's talking to Google and vice versa, but I trust them to keep existing vs some tech startup. The models I have have both keypad and an actual physical key, which is something I really wanted going in. But then it turns out I almost never use the key and almost always use the keypad anyways. It's very strange leaving the house without my keys.

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FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams

adnam posted:

I've got a bunch of outdoor Google Nests (don't hate me, it was the easiest solution at the time) in rather difficult to access areas. Is there any reasonable way aside from getting up there and physically resetting the Nests in order to migrate them to a new wifi? loving google :emo:

Something I've noticed in my house is that if something's going on with the wifi/internet, the Google Homes (I'm a curmudgeon I guess and still call them Homes, not Nests) will all start broadcasting a wifi network that, I assume, the Google Home app will use to connect to them for configuration. So I think an option would be to just turn off the old wifi (at least temporarily) to force them all into setup mode.

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