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I was looking into surveillance cameras because where I'm moving to is known to have people traspass into backyards and steal stuff. Is there some kind of IP cam standard, or are there a million disparate ones? I was perusing Amazon for wifi-enabled cameras, and you've got ones that work with a D-Link app, Nest app, Samsung, etc. Do any share a protocol I can stream to one server and/or app with? I was thinking of just saying "gently caress it" and setting up some old webcams with Motion or Zoneminder.
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# ¿ Oct 14, 2015 08:54 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 03:41 |
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Next-Gen posted:Yeah, there's an ONVIF standard for ip cameras that ensures interopability with NVRs. A lot of the newer cloud ones like Nest and Samsung are using custom tcp, but if you look at hikvision/dahua/swann etc they should all be able to stream by accessing via rtsp or http. The urls may be different but apps like tinycam keep a giant database of camera models so you just type it in and it knows where to go. Thanks, this helps me out. It looks like a lot of the cheaper home brands like D-link offer the rtsp/http options as well. I'll look at the ones you've suggested.
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# ¿ Oct 16, 2015 01:22 |
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I got a Yale Security YRD240-ZW-619 deadbolt with a SmartThings hub to pair it with. I can toggle the lock with the SmartThings app, or use a PIN via the touchscreen. I can also grant and revoke guest PINs. In the event the battery dies while you're locked out, you can give it a jump with a 9V battery. I'm pleased with it. I should note that my first SmartThings hub died after one night, but I'm hoping that's a fluke. Its replacement has been working fine for at least a month.
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# ¿ Dec 31, 2015 18:28 |
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I'm starting to wonder if there's better alternatives out there. My SmartThings is a convenience, but I wouldn't rely on it for home security. My motion-triggered night light routine is already pretty unreliable, so I can't imagine what it'd be like for people with sirens and the like.
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# ¿ Feb 7, 2016 13:57 |
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With NSA monitoring, you can safely assume anything you do online is in government hands.
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# ¿ Mar 1, 2016 17:27 |
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stevewm posted:HomeGenie, Domoticz, and OpenHab, oh my! Thanks for posting about these. I'm a Smartthings guy and didn't really know about alternatives that weren't cloud or proprietary hub-centric.
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# ¿ Mar 16, 2016 16:41 |
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Is Domoticz purely Z-Wave compatible? I'm interested, but I have a mixture of Z-Wave and ZigBee (cheap lights!).
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# ¿ Mar 18, 2016 19:01 |
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Baconroll posted:
I haven't seen my Zigbee lights freak out yet, but I have seen WiFi disturb Bluetooth and Logitech peripherals. Such a noisy, crowded band.
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# ¿ Apr 22, 2016 18:45 |
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Apparently SmartThings has some really predictable security issues: https://iotsecurity.eecs.umich.edu/ Basically what it boils down to is: Don't use Zigbee or SmartApps till they can implement a satisfactory fix. I'm not too worried though. If I understand correctly, someone has to be actively listening for your information, or you must provide it to them via an app, in order to exploit you.
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# ¿ May 4, 2016 02:27 |
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Next-Gen posted:By saying "install a malware app", it requires the user to copy paste the code into the developer site as a new smartapp/device handler and learn how to personally publish it. If someone is doing that without knowing what the code in it is doing, that's a bad idea. SmartThings probably does need to have distinct permissions on smartapps but they have a super anal smartapp publishing process right now that prevents any apps like that from being in there. Funny that they glossed over that, because there's no way they got that in the smartapp area of smartthings. It's like manually compiling and installing an apk on a phone. Thanks for the clarification, I didn't watch the YouTube videos yet and took the news articles' word that the API was inherently unsafe. Also, they made it sound like SmartThings never released the feature to disable the insecure rejoin. That's what I get for trusting tech journos.
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# ¿ May 4, 2016 17:50 |
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The most useful thing I did was turn on an LED strip and set it to red when the bedroom/bathroom doors open so you're not feeling your way back and forth in the dark. On the days I work, I have a light turn on downstairs too, so I can get down the stairs without tripping over cats.
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# ¿ May 19, 2016 14:47 |
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SmartThings has a battery backup, but that won't save you if the rest of your infrastructure is down.
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# ¿ Aug 8, 2016 02:15 |
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Wikipedia says Hue is Zigbee, though I don't have any Hues to confirm. You're absolutely right about un-pairing Z-wave, though. SmartThings will let you force-remove Z-wave devices, but to do it properly you have to put both hub and peripheral in a special exclusion mode. It's not the biggest headache in the universe, but if you wind up with a peripheral which still thinks it's included, you can't pair it with any hub again until you follow that process. Thankfully, the exclusion mode will work regardless of whether or not you're paired to the hub you're excluding it from.
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# ¿ Jan 13, 2017 22:06 |
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Thermopyle posted:Since I have a Shield TV (which is getting a dongle and support to operate as a smarthings hub) and currently no smart home stuff, I'm thinking about going all in on SmartThings stuff. Nest is a big one, but there might be unofficial support (hax). I use a Zen Thermostat in lieu of Nest, and that's been working great. azurite fucked around with this message at 03:02 on Jan 14, 2017 |
# ¿ Jan 14, 2017 02:37 |
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Thermopyle posted:Have any thoughts about the zen vs ecobee? The ecobee seems very nice and feature-packed. Seems reliant on Wi-Fi and a cloud service, which I'm not a fan of. I have no idea about wiring setup. The Zen isn't much smarter than a programmable thermostat, but can be remotely controlled via anything that speaks Zigbee. That feature works well. It has a pretty and simplistic interface displayed via an LED array. Setup was reasonably straightforward. It takes either common wire or batteries for power.
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# ¿ Jan 14, 2017 07:02 |
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It depends on which you're referring to. If you mean wall switches and dimmers, they'll function like dumb ones until you get a hub. Same with most bulbs and a lot of smart outlets.
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# ¿ Jan 19, 2017 05:55 |
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Subjunctive posted:SmartThings drives Hue and Z-wave and Zigbee without internet access, fwiw. How does this work exactly? I've never pulled the Ethernet cable to try, but when SmartThings had an outage one evening, I lost control of everything.
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# ¿ Jan 27, 2017 20:41 |
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Gotcha. I guess all the pre-scripted stuff must work, but not remote control via the app.
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# ¿ Jan 27, 2017 21:20 |
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I see Hikvision thrown around a lot in this thread.
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# ¿ Mar 16, 2017 05:04 |
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I have a Yale Z-Wave lock and I love it. It unlocks via code or via Z-Wave, no key. If it runs out of juice, you can use a 9V battery as a backup. You'd have to neglect warnings for that to happen, though. A set of batteries lasts for months.
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# ¿ Apr 21, 2017 00:13 |
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:This seems like the right place to ask about self monitored home security systems. I noted that the OP is 2 years old, and I admit I did not read 26 pages of posts. I have SmartThings, which can monitor doors/windows. I use it for automation, but there are notification apps to go with it. I'm sure a lot of other home automation systems can do the same. It's not exactly what you asked for, but if you want a monitored solution you can install yourself, my coworker raves about Simplisafe.
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# ¿ May 10, 2017 15:01 |
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spiralbrain posted:The new ones are good, the old ones are poo poo. Also make sure that the z-wave lock is the last thing you add into your chain. I've noticed that if its the first, its routing a lot of traffic and will eat through batteries. Thanks for the tip. Mine is first in the chain, but the same set of batteries have been in there since late last year. I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HS1O77G/ref=psdcmw_511306_t2_B005NLKRAO?th=1&psc=1
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# ¿ May 17, 2017 16:45 |
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spiralbrain posted:Depends on how many devices you have in the chain. I have some production ones here at my job that are the newest like this touchpad one: Yeah, that might be. I don't have too many Z-wave devices. I think the majority are Zigbee.
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# ¿ May 17, 2017 20:33 |
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CharlesM posted:Speaking of Foscam, they are still full of security flaws. They still have hard coded passwords, telnet access, etc. One thing I did to address this was put them on their own wifi network on an old router without internet access. There's a server in the middle (behind a VPN) for outside-in access, but there's no route to the internet via that network.
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# ¿ Jun 10, 2017 15:37 |
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Subjunctive posted:Or you could hard wire the light socket and use one of the standalone wireless switches as long as you don't mind a dead switch on the wall. I wouldn't recommend this. I have GE Link bulbs and they're the least reliable smart appliances I own. They eventually stop responding and occasionally need to be powered off hard before they'll work again. So definitely keep the switch and maybe put a cover over it.
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# ¿ Jun 14, 2017 05:57 |
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Burt Sexual posted:Ok then. I was directed to this nerd infested thread for home security advice. Thread title does not deliver. Continue the yank off. I was sort of half-reading the thread sporadically and didn't pick up on your request till now, so for that, I apologize. Don't know if it's exactly what you're looking for, but my coworker swears by SimpliSafe. I think their camera system is relatively new and possibly unproven, so maybe pair it with Arlo instead? I'm using Arlo now with reasonable results.
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# ¿ Jul 17, 2017 04:03 |
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Hughlander posted:Having a problem where a lot of the Zigbee lights stop responding to my Smarter Things 2 hub. To the point where there's 2 lights in a room, one works the other doesn't. There's 5 lights in a hallway, 4 does 1 doesn't. I just yanked the battery, and power for 45 minutes and plugged it back in with having all lights in the house on, but after an hour there doesn't seem to be a change. Any thoughts as to what to do next? Are there better Zigbee hubs? I don't think it's a mesh issue because one of the hallway lights is probably literally the closest bulb to the hub. I have the same issue with the hub a GE Link bulb in one corner of the house. Everything else seems to work fine, including other Zigbee devices. Personally, I just think the bulb isn't that great. All the Z-wave stuff I have is rock-solid, though.
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# ¿ Nov 5, 2017 00:30 |
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I personally wouldn't be comfortable with a space heater or any large appliance hooked up to a smart switch that isn't specifically certified for such use. Most of the switches on the market seem like they were designed with lighting in mind.
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# ¿ Nov 18, 2017 20:30 |
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Thermopyle posted:Well, I'm having the first problem with my Smartthings setup since I got it 6 months ago. Up to this point it's been rock-solid. I've had hit or miss results with Zigbee devices. My GE Link bulbs in particular are finicky and one of them kept falling off the network. I moved it closer to my hub, in case reception was a problem. It fell off the network again, this time talking my Zen thermostat with it. I'm assuming maybe it was because it was now the next closest Zigbee device in the mesh? Half the time my bulb stopped working, I had to delete it and pair it again. Other times it only needed to have the power supply toggled. After the thermostat incident, I ditched the bulb. Then, my thermostat only needed to have the c-wire and batteries momentarily yanked and reconnected. I guess my suggestion to you is to reset the devices themselves and troubleshoot from there. If you have a device known to be iffy, try removing it from the picture. If nothing helps, maybe your hub is bad. EDIT: By comparison, my Z-Wave devices have been great. azurite fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Feb 21, 2018 |
# ¿ Feb 21, 2018 05:18 |
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Hughlander posted:I'd love tips for keeping GE Link bulbs in network. House I brought had something like 33 of them. For some fortunate reason (knock on wood) none of the outdoor ones have ever fallen off the network but every other bulb seems to have multiple times. I even got 3 Zigbee outlets and put them around the house to try to strengthen the network since I read that GE Links won't relay messages by themselves. But things are still falling off. Well, I honestly tossed the one that wasn't working because it had become a liability to have turned on. It was in the same room as the hub and it still caused trouble. The other ones I have are okay, but they stay switched off most of the time at the wall. What makes them even more aggravating is the fact that the guts probably change from bulb to bulb. I got a couple where I needed to go into the SmartThings IDE to get them working, whereas I didn't need to for earlier ones. Oh, and the plastic domes collect condensation for some reason, and it can't escape once it's in there. Total garbage. I'm going Z-Wave where I can, now, and am also moving towards smart outlets and wall switches with dumb bulbs since I've had way more success with them.
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# ¿ Feb 22, 2018 03:33 |
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Sounds like that's the kind of thing Life Alert is for, but I'm not certain if she'd be able to press the button. There are probably other products or mechanisms that could serve as a dead man's switch, like if she's stuck somewhere, she wouldn't be able to disarm it. Edit: If she could keep an Android phone on her person, the "OK Google" functionality can fire off texts to people through dictation. You could set it up so no button presses are necessary. It's pretty reliable in my experience. azurite fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Apr 27, 2018 |
# ¿ Apr 27, 2018 17:40 |
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I don't do this, but I believe you can cook up your own scripts for SmartThings in Groovy if you really wanted to.
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# ¿ May 7, 2018 02:05 |
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You could put it on its own cellular hotspot, or if that's cost-prohibitive, put a wireless AP in the middle to firewall it off from other guests.
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# ¿ Jul 9, 2018 18:14 |
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The Google Assistant is also built into Android phones, for what it's worth.
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# ¿ Jul 10, 2018 22:52 |
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priznat posted:I swear home automation stuff is kind of addicting. I started out with a couple ikea smart bulbs and now I want to homekit-ify the entire house. I have this Yale deadbolt and I really like it. Looks like there's been newer revisions since I got mine. They sell different ones with handles and keyholes, too. https://www.amazon.com/Yale-Securit...ref=mp_s_a_1_13
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# ¿ Aug 14, 2018 03:40 |
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I don't know if anyone else has noticed this, but my Z-Wave devices have always been way more reliable than Zigbee. I currently use a SmartThings hub to control it all, so you'd think SmartThings-branded stuff would work better, but nope.
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# ¿ Dec 13, 2018 20:46 |
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I'm planning on replacing my Zen thermostat (Zigbee) with a Radio Thermostat (with Z-Wave or Wifi modules). Apparently the wifi module can be operated via network without a cloud. I ordered the CT50 model and it should arrive Friday. Once I get set up, I can give a trip report.
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# ¿ Jan 2, 2019 22:27 |
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I'm still setting up my Home Assistant. I got the same USB stick as you, actually. Based on my experience with SmartThings, Zigbee hasn't been super reliable. From what I've read, it's even worse with that stick. I'd say stick to Z-Wave as much as possible, especially for critical devices like temperature sensors and thermostats. Every Zigbee device I've had has hosed up so far. I can't think of any issues I've had with Z-Wave. I'm not even sure how to tell whether a given Zigbee device is a repeater or not, but something like a bulb or a button isn't too bad if it falls out of the mesh. You just have to be prepared to pair it back up every so often.
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# ¿ Jan 10, 2019 02:51 |
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Discussion Quorum posted:Plan A was to get a wifi CT50 and be done with it. However something is wrong with my C-wire (only getting 14.5V at the thermostat), and I doubt I can get it fixed. The leasing office didn't have any objection to me replacing their cheap battery-powered one (she even told me a lot of tenants use Nest), but told me to expect no maintenance support. I was eyeing that GoControl as well, but the reviews gave me mixed feelings. I'm still loving around with the CT50, which is temporarily hooked up to SmartThings until I commit to my Home Assistant. It seems to be going well so far. The only (probably self-inflicted) problem I had was that the "hold" feature stopped working and it went back to the preset schedule it had. I think it was because I was messing with the device handler's settings in SmartThings, which may have been invisibly resetting some values to defaults. It's been stable for two days now, though. Also, the wifi module is a wireless G device, if that matters to you. I had to re-enable legacy support on my router to accommodate.
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# ¿ Jan 11, 2019 00:54 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 03:41 |
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That is really, really cool.
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# ¿ Jan 17, 2019 03:38 |