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Just wanted you folks to know, I'm in the middle of rolling out a huge number of Hikvision IP cameras - mostly the cube-style cameras, but also a few dome-style to be used to monitor exterior areas. About 22 cameras in total, all feeding into a machine running Blue Iris. Currently, it's going great! These Hik cameras are awesome, and although I initially had concerns about the computer hardware needed to make such a system function, Blue Iris plus 2012 hardware is more than up to the task.
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Jan 3, 2017 13:38
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Resolutions range from 1080P up to 2048x1536 for a couple of them. All cameras recording at 10fps. Motion detection is handled mostly by the PIR built into the cameras themselves, but a few of the cameras have Blue Iris doing motion detection also, to increase sensitivity. PFSense lets me do some back of the hand math and guesstimate that fully loaded the cameras will be outputting about 3 Megabytes of data per second. So if the cameras were recording all day every day the 4tb drive will hold about a month of recordings. I'm expecting about 1/3rd of that activity in normal use, so up to 3 months of recordings. bobfather fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Jan 3, 2017 |
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Jan 3, 2017 21:07
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POE comes in two main flavors - Ubiquiti POE, and everything else. In both cases, there are $10-$15 POE injectors that will power your camera (or whatever device) that is POE capable. I just rolled out 20 cameras at work, and I used mainly Hikvision cube cameras along with Netgear POE switches. Mainly the JGS516PEs and JGS524PEs, but also 1 GS108PE that works really well. All of the switches can do VLAN tagging either by port or 802.1Q, so they should work with just about any router that supports VLANs. I can highly recommend the Hikvision cameras. Just make sure to buy ones with stock English firmware so they can be updated properly. Or don't, and then be ok with never updating them.
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Jan 16, 2017 15:54
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Subjunctive posted:SmartThings drives Hue and Z-wave and Zigbee without internet access, fwiw. Only if you use bone-stock device handlers along with their basic (limited) SmartApps. In other words, use any non-standard code and your device is completely dependent on internet access to function. My whole setup breaks when internet goes down, but I have HomeKit running as a backup.
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Jan 27, 2017 23:19
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zer0spunk posted:If you're going for an ambilight setup the lag from the hue stuff won't really work well. There's a bunch of guides & software for using a rasberry pi and an LED strip to power a passthrough that reads the frame buffer in realtime and gives you corresponding colors. Google Lightberry for an example of a company selling kits... I use this plugin for Kodi and my Hue Lightstrip v2s update to match the scene within 1/4 - 1/2 second. It doesn't work well on movies where there are multiple, fast cuts, but I would say it's brilliant on almost everything else. In particular, Planet Earth 2 was amazing.
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Feb 1, 2017 21:55
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Thermopyle posted:Am I alone in thinking these smart switches, receptacles, light bulbs are just too expensive? They're priced fine. Consider that until about 2 years ago regular old LED bulbs were still $10 a bulb. I just picked up 4 Osram Lightify bulbs that connect to SmartThings and can dim and be remote controlled for $32 total, or $8 a bulb. Not everything costs what Hue bulbs cost.
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Feb 3, 2017 02:14
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Seriously. Telling my Echo "turn on night mode”, which turns off all my lights, sets my AC to cool to 72, and sets my bedroom into a tropical sunset theme that dims to 30% brightness over 15 minutes is boss. Don’t even use an alarm to wake up because the house knows what my schedule is and dims my lights on from 0-100% over 15 minutes, modeled after a sunrise. Every light that matters is on a motion sensor. I haven’t touched a light switch in a really long time. If you have the expendable income to blow on it, it’s just nice creature comforts.
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Feb 3, 2017 04:08
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WithoutTheFezOn posted:Am I missing something or are you guys using like Xmas sale/eBay/guy in a van prices? Both of these prices seem to be below half of their everyday price. I bought mine retail from Lowes. Paired a sale on the bulbs with a $15 off $50 coupon. Who pays MSRP on anything in this day?
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Feb 3, 2017 04:14
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Hughlander posted:Looking for suggestions or a place to read on building a small but future proofed camera set up for home. You're looking at any Hikvision camera from recently. Also look at the Dahua Starlight series cameras. Blue Iris is the standard recording software. You can buy it for $50 or less. Blue Iris has iOS / Android apps also. It can do almost anything you'd conceivably want. Once you start running a very large number of cameras, you'll want dedicated hardware, since virtual machines likely won't let Blue Iris use QuickSync for hardware acceleration. You could do a handful of WiFi cameras, but they'll be banging away at your network 24/7/365, and CAT cables are cheap.
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Feb 18, 2017 01:53
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w00tmonger posted:Looking to automate something in SmartThings and I. Wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction. Easy basic Core Piston. If <light bulb> changes to on Then set level (advanced) to 100 while the switch is on
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Mar 1, 2017 12:26
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w00tmonger posted:What exactly is a core piston Core.
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Mar 1, 2017 15:55
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I run Hiks, but that is the reason I went through and VLAN-ed all my cams recently so they can't see anything but time.microsoft.com and their Blue Iris server.
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Mar 7, 2017 12:19
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Pitre posted:For stuff like that I use my phone with Tasker and SharpTools. It could also be done easily with a custom SmartApp and a virtual switch though. If virtual switch "Wakeup Alarm" is turned on then turn on bedroom lights @ 5am. The built-in Smart Lighting doesn't have enough conditions to do it out of the box. To make custom rules, I still use Rule Machine because I got used to it and it does everything I have ever needed so far, but it is no longer being updated. CoRE is the new hotness in this area but I've never checked it out. Actually CoRE is mostly dead. The newest hotness is webCoRE, which is CoRE but with a way better front end. No more using the SmartThings app to make pistons. It's seriously slick as hell and way more powerful than Rule Machine ever was.
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May 26, 2017 11:41
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Piggy Smalls posted:Any recommendations for a good out door security camera setup especially one that is somewhat clear at night. I read infrared cameras are the way to go. I'm a complete noob so be nice. Dahua Starlight cams are basically the cream of the crop. Protip: buy a PoE switch and run your cams off that. Way easier to run a single 100 ft CAT6 cable then to try and tap into mains power for every cam you mount. Edit: I just realized you don't have much experience with this. You're looking for something that's rated to be waterproof, and your typical cost for a camera with good night vision, waterproof and vandal proof, but fixed (and thus NOT pan/tilt) is $100-$150, depending on where you buy it. Then you'll need a < $50 power over ethernet (PoE) switch, an appropriate length of CAT6 cable ($5-$15 depending on length), and a way to monitor that camera. If you have an always-on computer, Blue Iris ($40-$50) is a good consumer software solution. You could also forego all this advice and pick up one of the cheap all-in-one solutions from Costco ($300+ for 4 or more cameras, all needed cables, and a DVR-style box with a small hard drive), but the cams will suffer in terms of resolution and night vision ability compared to a Starlight. bobfather fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Jun 1, 2017 |
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Jun 1, 2017 20:52
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i5-3570 refurbished system from EBay $150 3TB WD Purple $100 Netgear Prosafe PoE switch $100 CAT 6 cables $50 Blue Iris $50 + phone app $10 This gives you a budget of $600 to spend on cams and still come in at the high side of your budget. Both Dahua and Hikvision make outdoor dome-style cams that can be found for $100 a piece or less.
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Jun 16, 2017 03:03
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Jaxyon posted:That's a great start! Thank you. You could ditch the extra computer, but Blue Iris and IP camming is processor intensive. On your always on computer do you have a discrete video card? If yes, that will mess with Blue Iris' ability to use Intel hardware acceleration. Same story if you run AMD processors. 4 cams at reasonable specs (1080P, 10fps, motion activated recording) will probably produce 10-15% constant CPU use without hardware acceleration, And half as much CPU use with acceleration. Just a consideration. Devoting another system to it means you can just set it and forget it in a closet or something, and remote in for configuration changes. bobfather fucked around with this message at 11:08 on Jun 16, 2017 |
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Jun 16, 2017 11:03
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CharlesM posted:Is there a way to set it so that Windows Update won't automatically restart on Windows 10? I tried reading all the group policies but it's a bit confusing. I don't want to totally disable Windows Update, just let me do it manually when I'm there. I use the Windows Update MiniTool. Lets you change Windows Updates to be fully manual. Another great reason to run your IP cam server as a discrete system is you can VLAN or put it and all the cams on their on subnet, making strict firewall rules easier to implement. I have all my cams blocked from the internet, except for NTP and DNS traffic. They can only see my video server, and have access to nothing else on my LAN.
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Jun 16, 2017 11:14
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WarMECH posted:Recommend me a hub: Wink or SmartThings? Wink is basically a dead product. SmartThings seems to be surviving, if not necessarily thriving. I've used ST for a couple years now and I like it, generally. It's still nothing close to being 100% reliable, and I have at least one malfunction in my (comprehensively automated) household on a daily basis.
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Jul 7, 2017 15:06
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Actually for some reason I thought they were closing up shop. Generation 1 Wink stuff went on closeout at all the B&M stores that carried it like 12-18 months ago. I didn't realize they came out with a second hub, also. SmartThings major advantage over Wink and the other players is a pretty active community. They do all sorts of things like develop new device handlers for unsupported hardware, to creating new SmartApps that can do all sorts of things.
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Jul 7, 2017 18:44
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Actually, you're exactly right. I guess I figured they were one in the same.
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Jul 7, 2017 19:21
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OneEightHundred posted:Is there software that'll let me do something like set up cameras up on motion detect and push video segments to Dropbox immediately or something so I don't lose all of the footage if someone swipes the PC? Or some stand-alone thing that will do that, preferably without some $10 monthly storage fee? Blue Iris paired with a free DropBox/OneDrive/Google Drive account will let you do just that. Blue Iris will even automatically delete old videos automatically as space limits are met, to avoid filling up your cloud storage. Blue Iris isn't free, but it is fantastically good pay-once software. The dev is active even after all these years in maintaining it, and he implements new features pretty regularly.
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Jul 11, 2017 17:30
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Thomamelas posted:Neither Google Drive nor Dropbox synchronize open files. So they wouldn't be uploaded until Blue Iris finishes writing the video. You can try making the file limits very small but that's a crap shoot. It's fine to use them as cloud storage but if the concern is the PC being stolen then you are going to want to use Nest or one of the other cloud based cameras. This is no problem for Blue Iris. In the individual camera settings under the Record preferences there's an option to "cut video when triggered with break time" which will force Blue Iris to make individual clips for each event that sets off the camera. Of course, this is predicated on the idea that OneEightHundred wasn't looking for continuous recording, but instead was only doing triggered recording. With triggered recordings Blue Iris works great to sync individual recordings to (any) cloud service.
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Jul 12, 2017 19:39
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Thomamelas posted:It's also dependant on the motion detection stopping in time.If you get a broken screen door swaying in front of the camera or something else triggering motion detection then the file never ends. It's a solution that will situationally work, but it's really silly to jury rig a solution that will probably work when one exists that will work. There's a way to address every single issue you've presented so far. To each their own though.
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Jul 12, 2017 20:32
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Fancy_Lad posted:The best part of having a smart home is not being able to turn off the lights when the internet is out. THE FUTURE IS NOW! It's that, or "night time thunderstorm; power went out while sleeping; wakes up to every (smart) bulb in the house turned on at 100% brightness"
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Sep 2, 2017 11:46
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Hughlander posted:Having a problem where a lot of the Zigbee lights stop responding to my Smarter Things 2 hub. To the point where there's 2 lights in a room, one works the other doesn't. There's 5 lights in a hallway, 4 does 1 doesn't. I just yanked the battery, and power for 45 minutes and plugged it back in with having all lights in the house on, but after an hour there doesn't seem to be a change. Any thoughts as to what to do next? Are there better Zigbee hubs? I don't think it's a mesh issue because one of the hallway lights is probably literally the closest bulb to the hub. Homeautomation.txt Everyone has these problems in some small or larger way. What bulbs are they?
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Nov 4, 2017 20:15
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Thomamelas posted:They aren't the only one but some of it is that Hikvision generally sells to end users through partners that rebrand, like Swann. And B&H's pricing is slightly under the walk in price at ADI. If you don't want grey market, that's as cheap as you're going to get for Hikvision. Here's the best kept secret for indoor Hikvisions: Order from Annke for $50 a pop. These take official Hik firmware, though they come with custom firmware. Follow the instructions on post 18 to get these cameras updated with official Hik firmware with all security patches. bobfather fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Nov 12, 2017 |
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Nov 12, 2017 22:38
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IAmKale posted:I caved and bought a Smart things home surveillance kit, the one with the hub, door sensors, motion sensor, and outlet adapter. I'm interested in standardizing on Z-Wave, so I know the Hub is good for that, but what about Hue bulbs? Can those work with the Smart Things Hub without needing the Hurt hub? The bulbs appear to support Zigbee, which the Hub does too, I just don't want to end up needing to have too many hubs up and running. My SmartThings hub is ~95% reliable. My Hue hub is like 99%. This small discrepancy seems like a non-issue until you walk into a dark house with no motion-activated lights because the SmartThings cloud is undergoing maintenance, or because your home internet connection is offline for some reason. Hue runs 100% locally and if you use it with your Hue bulbs, SmartThings sends commands to Hue hub which are executed instantly. It’s really, really nice integration. Also, if you have iOS devices and care to use HomeKit, the Hue hub has full HomeKit integration, and SmartThings doesn’t. So that’s something too.
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Dec 31, 2017 04:11
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IAmKale posted:Hmm, I was hoping SmartThings would be a bit more "standalone", I missed that a lot of its functionality is tied to The You’ll definitely lose total control when internet/cloud goes out. The only devices that are locally processed are a few types of smart bulbs (of which Hues, connected via Hue hub are one). The bigger issue is that the ST system is 100% internet-based. All communication goes phone -> ST cloud -> hub -> device. Nix the cloud in whichever way (be it their fault, or yours), you lose total control.
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Dec 31, 2017 13:23
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. I found
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Boris Galerkin posted:Is Homebridge an addon for Home Assistant or a standalone thing? Standalone. Think of it as a virtual hub between your iOS devices and other devices or hubs.
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Jan 4, 2018 14:56
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I have also rolled 2 Blue Iris systems - a very large one for work, and a personal one for home. I personally wouldn't use an NVR or any other software package, but as was stated there's a decent learning curve with it.
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Jan 5, 2018 17:06
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Do people really just rely on voice-activating their lights or using their phones, or even (gasp) using physical switches? In the world of contact and motion sensors and rule engines for IoT devices, my whole apartment is on complete autopilot. I usually just have to ask Alexa or access HomeKit to toggle the odd light that fails to power on/off according to the sensor it's attached to.
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Feb 14, 2018 20:28
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Droo posted:What if you... don't... want a light on? 80% of my home lights are motion or contact-sensor activated. The other 20% turn on and off on timers that are active when we're home. Alexa and Siri are backups for those crucial moments when I'm too impatient for a timer to fire. For example, my living room gets lots of natural light, so the lights turn on daily 30 minutes before sunset, but in South Florida we often get overcast weather that makes it get dark faster. In that case I might turn on the lights via voice or Home.app The only ways I consistently use Alexa or Home.app are to trigger my "going to bed" routine or to inform my rule engine that tomorrow is a gym day (wake up earlier) or not, or on rare days where I have trouble getting out of bed to override my rule engine and tell it not to wake me up now, wake me up later.
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Feb 14, 2018 21:18
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Subjunctive posted:I definitely don’t want my bedroom light turning on and waking my girlfriend when I get up and go to the washroom in the night. This is easy. Most HA systems let you declare that you're home or not, or that it's the day or evening. And most rule engines can interface with that to make logic like: If you're HOME and it's DAY, BEDROOM lights are motion activated But if you're NOT HOME, or it's NIGHT, BEDROOM lights do not respond to motion
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Feb 14, 2018 21:21
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Subjunctive posted:Yeah, I spent 20 years writing software, and debugging my house isn’t especially appealing. Getting it working for cleaners, contractors, house guests, etc seems like it would be pretty fiddly. Maybe if I get bored. That's fair. SmartThings is definitely the weak link in my system also. It's gotten better but I'd also peg at 90% reliable, which is just unreliable enough to be aggravating.
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Feb 14, 2018 21:52
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housefly posted:No experience, but what exactly is the point of having these other than achieving peak laziness? I mean, there’s a good argument to be made for the illusion of security they comes from having the blinds appear to open and close when you’re not home, but wouldn’t it be one more thing to have to put batteries in? I guess I just don’t get it. Can we change the thread title to Home Automation - Peak Laziness?
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Mar 11, 2018 01:03
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Step 1, relocate back to Earth from Mars.
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Mar 29, 2018 23:03
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EugeneJ posted:Amazon reviews say this thing traffics data to China and Russia, so I'm thinking "no" - but great price! Firewall it. In fact you shouldn't be running an IoT setup that doesn't involve a firewall and preferably a segregated VLAN for your devices.
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May 10, 2018 16:37
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redeyes posted:Anyone use Hikvision stuff around here? I have extensively used their stuff. Any particular questions?
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May 28, 2018 18:48
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n.. posted:I'm still waiting for one that will let you record to a local DVR or at least access an RTSP stream or something. This exists. It’s a Hikvision cam that’s rebranded by RCA, Nelly’s and many other companies. $100 or less is a good price for it.
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May 28, 2018 18:51
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redeyes posted:Whats the current hottness with their cameras? I have 4x 2.8mm for my own house security system. Using a Windows Pro PC for a DVR. I absolutely love them. Very reliable and excellent picture quality (1080P 30fps). Pretty much they’re just iterating the same cameras with higher resolutions. I think 4 MP is what they’re currently capped at with the same lenses as all the older models. For Hiks I buy off Amazon where the sellers tend to be more transparent about whether it’s a US branded, international, Chinese, or hacked-firmware camera. And if the seller lies Amazon will always side with you. For indoor stuff I really love their cube cameras. Annke sells 2 MP cube cams that take official firmware updates for like $60-70, which is a nice deal.
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May 28, 2018 19:57
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