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Well it looks like an automatic, did you make sure the torque converter is fully seated on the trans input shaft?
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Jul 27, 2014 06:20
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Is the torque converter supposed to go on the transmission first? I have it attached to the flexplate. I tried looking through the manual but I couldn't find a good diagram.
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Jul 27, 2014 15:54
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In general, yes you install the converter into the transmission first then bolt it to the flexplate after mounting the transmission. If there's access to do this with the transmission installed then that's the way to go. There are usually a few 'steps' on the transmissions input shaft, it can take some wiggling to get the converter fully seated.
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Jul 27, 2014 16:10
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:In general, yes you install the converter into the transmission first then bolt it to the flexplate after mounting the transmission. If there's access to do this with the transmission installed then that's the way to go. Thanks dude. I tried it that way just now and everything is back together.
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Jul 27, 2014 17:00
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Yep I should've added that to my response but it looks like you're on your way!
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Jul 27, 2014 19:42
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After much putting things together and then taking them apart again over and over I'm finally at the engine reinstallation.
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Jul 31, 2014 01:29
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Its hammer time! Thing was a bitch to get back in. Bonus view from inside. 
Senior Funkenstien fucked around with this message at 05:11 on Jul 31, 2014 |
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Jul 31, 2014 05:06
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If you want to add a tach, an LX/EX cluster is a direct bolt in (obviously you'll need one from an automatic model, but those are far more common than the 5 speed anyway). You can even swap the original speedometer over to the new cluster to retain the original odometer - remove the cluster itself, remove the clear front plastic (it just snaps in/out), then the gauge trim/warning light covers (should fall out once the clear cover is off), and the speedometer itself is held in by 3 or 4 screws from the back. Drops right out. Getting the cluster itself out is kind of a PITA on the 92-95, especially if you don't have an adjustable steering wheel (if you do, lower it as far as possible). Just make sure not to touch the needles. Ask me how easy it is to break them off.  Also, if you want to add the LX/EX factory dash clock, you just need the LX/EX bezel and the actual clock - the wiring is already there. Babby's first engine swap is always a bitch. You dun' good son! When you first get it started, if you get a bouncing idle (between ~500-2000+), you have a vacuum leak. Usually the brake booster line or the throttle body gasket. High idle (1500-1800ish) is normal when the engine is cold, should settle down to about 750 within a few minutes. Burping the cooling system isn't bad on these, just keep squeezing the upper radiator hose while blipping the throttle while keeping an eye on the coolant level (radiator cap off). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 13:28 on Jul 31, 2014 |
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Jul 31, 2014 13:25
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some texas redneck posted:If you want to add a tach, an LX/EX cluster is a direct bolt in (obviously you'll need one from an automatic model, but those are far more common than the 5 speed anyway). You can even swap the original speedometer over to the new cluster to retain the original odometer - remove the cluster itself, remove the clear front plastic (it just snaps in/out), then the gauge trim/warning light covers (should fall out once the clear cover is off), and the speedometer itself is held in by 3 or 4 screws from the back. Drops right out. Getting the cluster itself out is kind of a PITA on the 92-95, especially if you don't have an adjustable steering wheel (if you do, lower it as far as possible). It wasn't that hard. I mean, I did have the wheel off anyways...
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Jul 31, 2014 18:23
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Getting very close to completion. Mostly need to mount the power steering(and belt) and ac compressor(and belt) and put the crankshaft pulley back on. Replaced the rear engine mount cause its a bitch to get to. Have a replacement for the timing belt side engine mount coming soon and the other mounts were in great shape with no cracks.
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Aug 1, 2014 04:17
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Just a little more till it returns to life...
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Aug 2, 2014 22:18
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Question for you guys. If you turn the crankshaft pulley should it smoothly turn all the way around or does it get harder to turn about twice through a revolution?
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Aug 3, 2014 01:29
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Well you're building compression in your cylinders as you move them towards TDC so yes it's perfectly normal
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Aug 3, 2014 01:42
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rscott posted:Well you're building compression in your cylinders as you move them towards TDC so yes it's perfectly normal Just wanted to make sure. The Haynes manual has a warning that says if you feel ANY resistance etc etc. I figured that was the case. Edit: In other news I added an entire gallon to the radiator and burped it all the way through. Also added oil(primed the filter earlier). Senior Funkenstien fucked around with this message at 03:00 on Aug 3, 2014 |
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Aug 3, 2014 02:53
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The Haynes is probably assuming that you have the plugs out. If that was the case then any resistance would be bad, but with plugs in you'll be hitting the compression stroke on a cylinder every 180 degrees of crank rotation.
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Aug 3, 2014 03:26
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Ready to run!
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Aug 3, 2014 04:19
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You better have someone record the first time you crank it!
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Aug 3, 2014 05:31
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Rhyno posted:You better have someone record the first time you crank it! Little late for that. Thankfully(or not) the battery was shot. I'll try and remember to record the first startup. Just to let any lurking wanna be mechanics know this is the first car I have ever worked on. I changed my oil and filters in my DD but that was my experience coming into this project. Senior Funkenstien fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Aug 3, 2014 |
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Aug 3, 2014 05:40
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Anyone got a suggestion? So far trying to turn the car over just results in the starter running and nothing else.
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Aug 3, 2014 06:46
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Distributor plugged in? Can you hear the fuel pump priming when you first turn on the key (without turning it to start)? You should barely be able to hear it with the door open/head hanging under the car for about 3 seconds - until the check engine light turns off. More importantly, are the radio, HVAC fan, and cluster lights coming on? If not, you may have popped the main fuse (or left a wire off somewhere). e: if the cluster is coming to life, watch the tach while cranking it. It should bounce slightly. If it's not, you probably have a bad ignition control module inside the distributor, or your distributor wiring isn't connected properly. If you don't hear the fuel pump priming, your first culprit is the main fuel relay. They're the most common failure point on 80s-90s Hondas. The above are about the only things that will keep one of these from starting. That and ground issues. also if it sat awhile, there's a good chance the fuel pump is bad. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:40 on Aug 3, 2014 |
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Aug 3, 2014 07:28
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Little late for that. Thankfully(or not) the battery was shot. I'll try and remember to record the first startup. Badass man. I am in the same boat, just dove in headfirst over the past few months. I'm not as ballsy as you though, no engine swaps (yet). Great thread, hope you get this little lady fired up soon.
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Aug 3, 2014 07:32
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some texas redneck posted:Distributor plugged in? Can you hear the fuel pump priming when you first turn on the key (without turning it to start)? You should barely be able to hear it with the door open/head hanging under the car for about 3 seconds - until the check engine light turns off. Checked the distributor wiring and its all in order like it should be. Had a grounding strap out of place and fixed that. I can't hear any noise coming from the gas tank when I turn it to on so I'm going to check the relay. I dont think the fuel pump has sat for that long I mean I drove the car into the garage a few weeks ago when I started this. Edit: Guess I should say that the cluster lights, blower and all do come on. Senior Funkenstien fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Aug 3, 2014 |
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Aug 3, 2014 18:22
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Is the firing order correct on the distributor and spark plug wires? All it takes to run is air, fuel and spark. You obviously have air, so check for spark and fuel. To check for spark, pull a plug wire off a spark plug, stick a screw driver in it, and lay it somewhere that you can see it with the metal part of the screwdriver in near proximity to uncoated metal, but not directly touching it (I usually use the intake manifold or shock tower bolts). Crank it and you should see a nice bolt of electricity. If you don't have spark, it is most likely power or bad/no RPM signal or bad coil/power transistor. Did you swap distributors when you swapped motors? If you have spark, and firing order is correct, spray some ether or carb cleaner in the intake and see if it will run. If it does either the injectors are not firing or the fuel pump is not running. You can check for injector pulse using a noid light. I think the parts stores loan them out, if not they're inexpensive from harbor freight.
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Aug 3, 2014 18:51
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mafoose posted:Is the firing order correct on the distributor and spark plug wires? I took the distributor off the old engine. I took pictures of the order of the wires so I know those are correct. I'm going to open the pressure relief bolt on the fuel filter and see if anything comes out. If not I know the pump isnt working for whatever reason.
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Aug 3, 2014 19:11
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Tried a new relay and no go so far. I'm charging the battery right now to see if that changes anything. Here's a pic of what I see on the instrument cluster when the key is at the on position.
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Aug 3, 2014 21:47
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Have you double and triple checked all your ground connections? That's what threw me for a loop on my first engine swap, got everything hooked back up except for one ground strap at the back of the engine. Drove me nuts for an hour.
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Aug 4, 2014 00:11
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Terrible Robot posted:Have you double and triple checked all your ground connections? That's what threw me for a loop on my first engine swap, got everything hooked back up except for one ground strap at the back of the engine. Drove me nuts for an hour. Just the main two wires on the engine and the transmission. I'll go check the others again.
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Aug 4, 2014 00:57
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Checked the fuel pressure release bolt and there was no pressure or fuel. Swapped the main relay and still nothing. Next steps are going to be check all the grounding locations and clean them so there is good contact, jump the relay and see if the fuel pump runs and test the MAP sensor for voltage.
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Aug 4, 2014 15:40
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mafoose posted:Is the firing order correct on the distributor and spark plug wires? You forgot two other important items: timing and compression. The fuel pump not coming on makes me think there's a blown fuse, check the pump for voltage.
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Aug 4, 2014 15:53
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Anyone got a suggestion? So far trying to turn the car over just results in the starter running and nothing else. When you say just the starter running I assume you mean it cranks but won't start. Is there a pulsing noise when youre cranking it?
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Aug 4, 2014 18:30
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honda whisperer posted:When you say just the starter running I assume you mean it cranks but won't start. Is there a pulsing noise when youre cranking it? Yeah it cranks but wont start. I didn't hear a pulsing noise that I can remember. What would that be?
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Aug 4, 2014 19:02
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Checked the ground straps and hit em all with sandpaper so I know they are making contact. Check engine light still stays on. Checked the MAP voltage and got 8 volts on one wire and 9 on the other. Thats not right is it? Pulled up the back seat to check the voltage to the fuel pump.
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Aug 5, 2014 01:16
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So I have voltage at the fuel pump connector so it seems like its a dead fuel pump. Weird that it would die in the 3 weeks I have been working on the engine swap but I guess thats how it goes.
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Aug 5, 2014 03:07
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Check the ground side of the connector, too.
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Aug 5, 2014 03:49
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Checked the ground straps and hit em all with sandpaper so I know they are making contact. Check engine light still stays on. Checked the MAP voltage and got 8 volts on one wire and 9 on the other. Thats not right is it? Pulled up the back seat to check the voltage to the fuel pump. Might be the fuel level gauge too. Make sure you have the right wire. (I don't remember if the level sensor is 12v or 5v) 5v max at the map and tps. Should be 5v source, a ground, and the signal wire. Tps and map have identical plugs and are close enough to plug in backwards. That doesn't help with high voltage though. The pulsing noise would be compression. More of a fuh fuh fuh I guess. Ok try this. If I remeber right under the dash on the passenger side is a 2 pin connector. Key on engine off and jump that connector with a paper clip. This will make your check engine light pulse the codes the ecu is throwing. Long blink is 10 short is 1. honda whisperer fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Aug 5, 2014 |
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Aug 5, 2014 17:21
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honda whisperer posted:Might be the fuel level gauge too. Make sure you have the right wire. (I don't remember if the level sensor is 12v or 5v) Alright so i went to the house and checked the voltage on the map sensor connector and the tps sensor connector. On the map I was getting from right to left looking at the front of the connector 10v, 8v, and 8v. All wires have voltage. I'm thinking the wire harness is messed up somewhere. Is this the two pin connector you were talking about? 
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Aug 5, 2014 18:14
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I jumped the service connector and got nothing from the light. Solid all the way. Checked the voltage on the map sensor connector again once by grounding into the green/white wire and then by grounding to the negative battery terminal. 1.3V when using the wire in the connector for ground, 10v when using the post.
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Aug 5, 2014 23:58
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Senior Funkenstien posted:I jumped the service connector and got nothing from the light. Solid all the way. Checked the voltage on the map sensor connector again once by grounding into the green/white wire and then by grounding to the negative battery terminal. 1.3V when using the wire in the connector for ground, 10v when using the post. Yep that's the service connector. If the light stays on but won't blink it sounds like your ecu is in limp mode. Any chance you pinched some wiring harness installing the engine or trans? Grounding in the plug gives you the voltage difference. It should be 5v plug to battery. Something funny is going on with the wiring or ecu.
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Aug 6, 2014 13:04
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honda whisperer posted:Yep that's the service connector. If the light stays on but won't blink it sounds like your ecu is in limp mode. Checking the harness I didn't see any damage from pinching but its entirely possible. Next step is taking the wiring harness off and going over it to see if there's any damage. I have an old 92 civic wire harness I can try but I'm not sure if that one had a connector for the MAP sensor.
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Aug 6, 2014 13:50
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Figured out the issues. Had two wires that had been cut back and taped off that were supposed to be connected to the thermo housing(ecu ground). Reconnected them and replaced the fuses for the ecu and it came to life. Fuel pump and all. After a short time I turned it back off an noticed a pool of oil under the crank pulley side. It seemed to be a steady stream when the engine was running. Any ideas? My guess is crankshaft seal or just a screwed up oil pan at that curve. You can see the drip at the bottom on the timing belt cover. 
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Aug 7, 2014 02:00
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