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We demand video.
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Aug 7, 2014 02:04
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Rhyno posted:We demand video. I have it! Its upside down and I'm trying to find a place to upload to.
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Aug 7, 2014 02:06
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Senior Funkenstien posted:I have it! Its upside down and I'm trying to find a place to upload to. I have know idea where Youtube could upload some sort of video.
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Aug 7, 2014 02:09
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Senior Funkenstien posted:I have it! Its upside down and I'm trying to find a place to upload to. Someplace with an .au domain 
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Aug 7, 2014 02:10
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First startup and my country rear end talking. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrOb94nw5MI&feature=youtu.be I suck at video
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Aug 7, 2014 03:14
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WHY ARE YOU FROM THE MIRROR UNIVERSE? Good job dude.
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Aug 7, 2014 03:21
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Now I just gotta find out whats causing the steady stream of oil to leak out on the crank pulley side when the engine is running and bleed the coolant system. Please be the oil pan please please please...
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Aug 7, 2014 16:17
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I was going to say front main seal.
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Aug 7, 2014 16:39
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Looks like it is the crankshaft seal and the timing belt has oil all over it. Guess its time for another timing belt and seal job. Question though how long after startup does it usually take the radiator fan to kick on? Trying to figure out if I'm being overly cautious or if the fan just isn't kicking on for some reason.
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Aug 8, 2014 03:11
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Worry if the temp indicator passes the halfway mark. Only time mine went over half way was when the radiator was cracked. Er, after you fix the sensor. Just caught that.
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Aug 8, 2014 05:23
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TheNothingNew posted:Worry if the temp indicator passes the halfway mark. Only time mine went over half way was when the radiator was cracked. Looks like the fan and relay work fine and the temp sensor is making the needle climb slowly so I'm thinking its just not hot enough to turn the fan on yet. I did get the bad oil seal replaced and I now have a running and non leaking car. Now to figure out why I'm getting a CEL 41 light. Oxygen sensor heater.
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Aug 9, 2014 02:13
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Looks like the fan and relay work fine and the temp sensor is making the needle climb slowly so I'm thinking its just not hot enough to turn the fan on yet. I did get the bad oil seal replaced and I now have a running and non leaking car. Now to figure out why I'm getting a CEL 41 light. Oxygen sensor heater. Well I let the car heat up and the oil temp was almost half way without the fan kicking on. Not sure but I know the old engine didnt have a thermostat in it and the heater core was bypassed. I think I'm going to try replacing the thermo and the fan switch in the thermo housing and see what happens. Edit: New hood placed and tightened down. Looks pretty good for 70 bucks new. 
Senior Funkenstien fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Aug 9, 2014 |
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Aug 9, 2014 03:19
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On a lot of OEMs the fans don't kick on til 215° or so, which should be just past halfway when idling. Take it for a spin and keep an eye on the gauge.
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Aug 9, 2014 03:49
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Thanks mafoose! I took the girl out on a test drive. Never got above halfway on the temp gauge. This girl has some spirit for drat sure though!
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Aug 9, 2014 05:17
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I just bought a newish Si as my new DD. This thread is making me want to get an older one to play Legos too.
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Aug 9, 2014 15:25
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Hell yea! I don't think there's something as fun as working on cars and getting to enjoy them afterwards!
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Aug 9, 2014 16:41
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Thanks mafoose! I took the girl out on a test drive. Never got above halfway on the temp gauge. This girl has some spirit for drat sure though! Nice!
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Aug 9, 2014 21:05
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Got some of the most important parts in... 
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Aug 9, 2014 21:35
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TUNES. Seriously good job man. I feel lazy and pathetic now.
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Aug 9, 2014 21:41
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Rhyno posted:TUNES. TUNES indeed!  Thanks dude. I'm looking forward to see what kinda mess you make of yours.
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Aug 10, 2014 00:25
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Senior Funkenstien posted:TUNES indeed! Other than plugging in the new wires I'm pretty much done putting the motor together. Kind of terrified to turn it over to be honest.
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Aug 10, 2014 00:48
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Rhyno posted:Other than plugging in the new wires I'm pretty much done putting the motor together. Kind of terrified to turn it over to be honest. Don't be it'll fire up fine more than likely. So go do it!
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Aug 10, 2014 00:58
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Thanks mafoose! I took the girl out on a test drive. Never got above halfway on the temp gauge. This girl has some spirit for drat sure though! You shouldn't see it get past 1/3 normally, the fan should come on long before 1/2 on most Hondas. Swap the a/c fan relay with the cooling fan relay in the relay box. If it has working a/c, turn on the a/c when you do this - if the a/c fan (under the hood) still kicks on, you may have a bad cooling fan motor. They use the same relay part number. The relay box is under the hood, though I honestly don't remember which side of the engine bay it's on. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 13:33 on Aug 11, 2014 |
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Aug 11, 2014 13:18
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some texas redneck posted:You shouldn't see it get past 1/3 normally, the fan should come on long before 1/2 on this car. I have tested the relay and fan by jumping the two pins of the the fan switch. Everything worked. It could be the fan switch but it doesn't even get to the halfway mark on the temp Guage when driving so it may not be an issue.
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Aug 11, 2014 13:30
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Still have the 02 sensor heater engine light. Gonna swap out exhaust manifolds and see what happens(its easier to take those off than take off the sensor) Also found an older hose that had splitting and was shooting a fine stream of antifreeze in the engine bay as well as a few drips of transmission fluid on the lower firewall side of the transmission. Those are all pretty easy to fix I believe but the heavy steering is gonna be a bitch to figure out.
Senior Funkenstien fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Aug 11, 2014 |
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Aug 11, 2014 23:07
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Nice job on the car, dude. I've always had a weird fondness for EGs. The problems you had would have frustrated the poo poo out of me and I probably would have set the drat thing on fire or something. For what it's worth, I have a similar-era Accord and it never gets past about 1/3 on the temp scale, like STR said. Even sitting at a dead stop on 400 in July with a/c it stays pretty low, though it may have one of those dumbed-down not-really-a-gauge gauges. I don't ever hear the fans on after stopping the car, either. Worst case scenario, maybe you can do like some friends of mine have done and register your car in a county where they don't do emissions.
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Aug 12, 2014 06:01
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The O2 sensor heater code will keep it from going into closed loop, which will murder mileage. Backprobe the O2 sensor heater wires at the plug for the sensor, look for close to battery voltage (sorry, not sure which two wires they are). The sensor comes out pretty easy; nail it with PB Blaster on the threads, go rent the socket from AutoZone, come back a couple of hours later, use a breaker bar. I've had them pop right out like that.
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Aug 12, 2014 13:43
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And put a hose clamp on the socket if it's a split socket.
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Aug 12, 2014 15:08
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Geirskogul posted:And put a hose clamp on the socket if it's a split socket. Aw man that's a good idea.
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Aug 12, 2014 15:13
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If you impact off the o2 sensor by chance, be aware that the wire and connector will spin in a frenzy. The connector will smash against something hard, and then you have to buy another sensor anyway. I made this mistake once. 
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Aug 12, 2014 16:39
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Swapped the exhaust manifold cause it was easier. No more O2 code! I think I need to bleed the coolant some more since I swapped the busted hose and let a bunch of air in the system. I think next I'm going to replace the upper control arms on the front and start updating the rest of the front suspension as well.
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Aug 13, 2014 01:28
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Definitely bleed it, last time I opened my Accord's cooling system up to change a leaking gasket it was fine for a few days and then suddenly started to get too hot alarmingly fast (I won't say it overheated because I always caught it in time and cranked the heater to cool it down.) Thankfully I always watch my gauges and didn't make a milkshake in the crankcase. Those little bleeder screws work amazingly well if you follow the instructions. Now you're making me think of all the original suspension bits on my car that need replacement. My suspension is about as firm as a 1970s Cadillac's at this point. 
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Aug 13, 2014 05:13
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Hondas get very cranky if you don't burp the cooling system. A Spill Free Funnel is tailor made for this job.
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Aug 13, 2014 13:49
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I think I have the system burped well enough now. I think it was a total of two gallons of coolant that went into it. Question for you guys. What do you think of the cold air intake kits? Is it worth it?
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Aug 13, 2014 23:51
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If you like the sound go for it, but you will not see any performance or economy gains from it. Purely aesthetic. Also, avoid the type that goes down in the fender, they can suck up water from deep puddles and hydrolock your engine.
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Aug 13, 2014 23:53
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Fucknag posted:If you like the sound go for it, but you will not see any performance or economy gains from it. Purely aesthetic. Its info like that I come here for. I'll stay with the stock then if its not going to help performance any. Thanks Fucknag!
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Aug 13, 2014 23:58
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Nah.
pants in my pants fucked around with this message at 16:11 on Aug 14, 2014 |
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Aug 14, 2014 07:34
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^^^Decide it was too much work? Took the civic over to the local emission place today. Failed HC ppm, CO and NO ppm. Any suggestions?
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Aug 14, 2014 18:42
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So I did some interwebbing and decided the problem was more than likely the timing and maybe some of the pcv valve. So I bought a timing light and a new pcv valve and it looks like the timing was off by a lot so I set it back to 16 degrees off TDC and the results seem to be good. The exhaust now smells a lot less rich and gassy and the throttle response is much better.
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Aug 15, 2014 02:23
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NO is usually timing related. HC and CO are combustion efficiency related. Anything from a bad O2 sensor, coolant temp, vacuum leak, spark plugs, wires, cap/rotor can affect it. If all those items are fairly new and it still fails by a lot, it could mean new cat time.
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Aug 15, 2014 02:33
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