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mafoose posted:NO is usually timing related. Well I just finished putting a new cap and rotor on and I had already done the spark plugs and wires so hopefully it will pass now.
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Aug 15, 2014 03:13
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Senior Funkenstien posted:^^^Decide it was too much work? Nah, just a self-centered drunkpost about my own car which doesn't help you. Basically, your suspension post inspired me to do my lower ball joints which were mangled to gently caress and on the right side missing the boot completely. Unfortunately I forgot to un-bend the caliper backing plate I bent a little in the process, so on its inaugural 500ft test drive I heard the noise, pulled it pack into the garage and decided to drive a different car until I was less sore and felt like climbing under the fucker again.
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Aug 15, 2014 07:33
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You failed all 3, good job!  NO is usually caused by high combustion chamber temps. How far advanced was the timing, and were you able to get it to 14-16 degrees within the distributor's field of movement? If not, your timing belt might be off by 1 tooth (though on the D series SOHCs, they usually won't even start with it 1 tooth off). HC and CO just means it's running rich as gently caress; usually a bad O2 sensor or an engine that's not warming up fully; anything preventing it from entering closed loop operation. I'd chuck a new O2 sensor at it personally; use Denso or NTK, get the one with the connector. Denso is the OEM, NTK is a division of NGK (who is the OEM for your spark plugs). Also, which plugs did you put in? NGK Copper or NGK Platinum will work best, and the NGK Coppers are dirt cheap. Also, you did jump the service connector prior to setting the timing, correct? It's the same connector you short to get the check engine light to flash out codes. If you didn't, you'll need to do it again. Most manuals don't mention this, and the FSM is very vague. Start at 16 degrees, see if they'll do a "test smog" for you (no or lesser charge). If NO is still high, back it off to 15... still high? Try 14. HC and CO will probably go up in relation, but NO should go down. You have to find the perfect balance. There's also the option of tossing a can of Dry Gas in when you're sitting at a half tank or so. Doesn't work so well in areas with high ethanol content in their gas, but it may help a it. Finally, you HAVE burned through all the old, stale gas that was in the tank, right? Right? Because that will put out some horrific emissions numbers.
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Aug 15, 2014 07:51
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some texas redneck posted:You failed all 3, good job! I think the timing was advance by a good 8-10 degrees. It was way off. I did remember to jumper the service connector and now its dead center on the red mark. When I changed the plugs I got the NGK coppers and I believe the new O2 sensor is a Denso I'll have to check again when I get home. I have not burned through all the gas yet but its getting low now so I'll probably fill it up a little today.
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Aug 15, 2014 13:26
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Looks like the timing was the biggest factor. Took it back today for a retest and passed with flying colors. Now shes all tagged and ready to rock and gonna have new upper control arms installed this weekend.
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Aug 15, 2014 21:11
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 Brake fluid needs a change...
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Aug 16, 2014 23:09
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Senior Funkenstien posted:I think the timing was advance by a good 8-10 degrees. It was way off. I did remember to jumper the service connector and now its dead center on the red mark. When I changed the plugs I got the NGK coppers and I believe the new O2 sensor is a Denso I'll have to check again when I get home. I have not burned through all the gas yet but its getting low now so I'll probably fill it up a little today. Goddamn, I didn't think there was even enough movement allowed for 10 degrees. Guess I was off. NGK Coppers are what they shipped with from the factory on prior years; I'm not sure what year they made the transition to NGK Platinum (pretty sure it was mid 90s on most Hondas). The only difference you'll notice is you'll have to change them every 20-30k instead of 100k and about a $1-2 difference per plug. As long as you didn't use a Bosch O2 sensor, and you used one with a plug instead of a generic, you should be good to go - 80s/90s Hondas seem to really hate Bosch O2 sensors for some reason. If there was a red mark, that was someone marking the distributor with a marker prior to removing it. There's no markings from the factory on the distributor or head for timing; they count on the keyed shaft and limited range of movement to keep you from going too crazy. Senior Funkenstien posted:Looks like the timing was the biggest factor. Took it back today for a retest and passed with flying colors. Now shes all tagged and ready to rock and gonna have new upper control arms installed this weekend. Honestly, I'm betting the old fuel was also playing a decent factor. But yeah, timing being off will make it fart out all kinds of nasty poo poo. What kind of numbers did you get on the second test? randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:19 on Aug 25, 2014 |
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Aug 25, 2014 09:17
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some texas redneck posted:Goddamn, I didn't think there was even enough movement allowed for 10 degrees. Guess I was off. The red mark I'm referring to is the factory center timing mark(16 degrees) on the crankshaft pulley. I set the timing back to that and the exhaust ran much cleaner and didnt really have a smell to it anymore where before it was rich and gassy. I'm not really sure what the numbers were on the second test as I can't find the paper anymore but they were significantly lower than the highest numbers allowed. Edit: You guys think theres anything worth salvaging off the old engine? Senior Funkenstien fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Aug 25, 2014 |
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Aug 25, 2014 22:58
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The civic is now a reliable daily driver. Here's pics of the next project! 1994 Ford Ranger 
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Aug 31, 2014 21:37
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My dad had a 4cyl 97 Ranger. I beat the poo poo out of it learning how to drive stick. Tachometer's are for the weak. 
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Aug 31, 2014 23:30
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Senior Funkenstien posted:The civic is now a reliable daily driver. Here's pics of the next project! 1994 Ford Ranger Let me just say how much I loving HATE doing spark-plugs on those. Otherwise reliable; my boss has had one for ~a long time~ now and I've only had to work on a few things for him, and he had some clutch issues last year at around 160k mi. The clutch issues are more due to his driving than anything else, I have never seen someone ride the clutch so badly.
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Aug 31, 2014 23:48
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This one is an automatic. I do intend on getting a manual Bronco maybe to learn how to drive the stick. 270K miles on the ranger.
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Aug 31, 2014 23:58
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Old shock from the ranger. No wonder the thing bounces and rocks like crazy.. That shock has been sitting compressed for about 20 minutes now.
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Sep 1, 2014 00:10
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Senior Funkenstien posted:The civic is now a reliable daily driver. Here's pics of the next project! 1994 Ford Ranger That's a sharp looking Ranger, especially for 20 years old. And yeah, that dual spark plug setup is a PITA.
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Sep 1, 2014 09:01
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some texas redneck posted:That's a sharp looking Ranger, especially for 20 years old. It is a nice one. Super clean inside just needs a new lid on the arm rest storage place. Do you guys know what the jack locations are? I'm trying to lift the front end to take off tires and replace the shocks.
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Sep 2, 2014 01:10
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Senior Funkenstien posted:It is a nice one. Super clean inside just needs a new lid on the arm rest storage place. Do you guys know what the jack locations are? I'm trying to lift the front end to take off tires and replace the shocks. I've always jacked up my '98 Ranger (same as I do on my GMC) from the center of the front crossmember and the center of the pumpkin on the rear. A '94 will be different but probably not so much that it wouldn't work there too.
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Sep 2, 2014 04:41
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You can also generally place the jack under the lower control arm around where the spring mounts to it (for the front). For the rear, you can usually jack under the spring mounts. Assuming you're only wanting to lift one wheel at a time anyway. If you want to lift both, then follow IoC's advice, except add wheel chocks (especially if you're lifting the rear, since the moment a single rear wheel is off the ground, the truck is essentially in neutral, depending how the diff is setup). Chocks are a good idea in general, you don't want it going to visit the neighbors  (or rolling off of jack stands/jacks).
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:50 on Sep 6, 2014 |
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Sep 6, 2014 07:46
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some texas redneck posted:You can also generally place the jack under the lower control arm around where the spring mounts to it (for the front). For the rear, you can usually jack under the spring mounts. I ended up doing one wheel at a time with the jack under the lower control arm. Thankfully the rear shocks didn't require lifting anything to change. Now on to the next issue with it. Idiot at the oil change place the PO to it to didn't bother draining the old oil just added a bunch on top so it was really badly overfilled. I drained the oil and replaced the filter and put in some synthetic but now I noticed when the engine is running in park I can hear knocking and when I change into any gear it gets quieter but its still there. Some people on the explorer forums said it could be a dirty MAF sensor, intake needs some cleaning of carbon buildup or some of the lower intake bolts need retorquing. I figure I'll try and tackle that today after I get new tires put on.
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Sep 6, 2014 15:29
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Over filling on engine oil is a good way to actually starve the engine for oil. When it's way over the crankshaft whips through it in the pan and aerates it to hell. Once that happens the pump can't reliably suck it up and maintain pressure. I fear that you've got a hosed bottom end in that engine 
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Sep 7, 2014 08:10
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IOwnCalculus posted:Over filling on engine oil is a good way to actually starve the engine for oil. When it's way over the crankshaft whips through it in the pan and aerates it to hell. Once that happens the pump can't reliably suck it up and maintain pressure. Well it ran for about 40 miles before I discovered that(I didnt start the engine again till the oil was changed out). It never overheated or anything and the knock I was hearing before went away after driving a few miles. I'm hopefull it didnt have enough time to do much damage.
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Sep 7, 2014 17:01
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The Honda returns from the abyss! Taking the dash out to install the new heater core. Someone tell me I'n not crazy and the airbag wont just explode without the battery connected....
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Oct 19, 2014 23:48
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Senior Funkenstien posted:The Honda returns from the abyss! Taking the dash out to install the new heater core. Someone tell me I'n not crazy and the airbag wont just explode without the battery connected.... It wont.
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Oct 20, 2014 00:38
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Senior Funkenstien posted:The Honda returns from the abyss! Taking the dash out to install the new heater core. Someone tell me I'n not crazy and the airbag wont just explode without the battery connected.... It won't, but plug it back in before turning the ignition on.
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Oct 20, 2014 02:54
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Senior Funkenstien posted:The Honda returns from the abyss! Taking the dash out to install the new heater core. Someone tell me I'n not crazy and the airbag wont just explode without the battery connected.... You should have red safety plugs. Disconnect the airbag from the harness and connect it to the red plug. For all I know the plug does nothing more than keep dust and static out but it made me feel safer. The steering wheel has a trim piece covering the airbag connection and the plug snaps into the trim for storage. You should see the passenger connection and plug behind the glove box. On my 94 Accord: 
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Oct 20, 2014 04:06
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Heh. Just wrapped up evap+heater core on a friend's car. Not fun, but not as bad as some.
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Oct 20, 2014 16:30
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Got the dash out finally. Had a few wires hanging it up. My question now is do I have to drain the AC system to do this? Edit: The Haynes manual sucks balls. 
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Oct 20, 2014 23:09
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For my model the Haynes manual explicitly states that the AC has to be discharged. I don't see it mentioned here so I guess you're not forced to deal with AC. But if you had planned ahead this would be a great time to clean out any coolant or other poo poo that collects in the evaporator tray. Don't forget that the heater box has one nut holding it from the engine side.
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Oct 20, 2014 23:38
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Alright I cannot figure out how to get the heater side out. Took off all the nuts holding it in, disconnected the heater valve cable. I'm missing something probably obvious but the heater compartment barely moves.
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Oct 21, 2014 01:07
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Alright I cannot figure out how to get the heater side out. Took off all the nuts holding it in, disconnected the heater valve cable. I'm missing something probably obvious but the heater compartment barely moves. The Twinkie Czar posted:Don't forget that the heater box has one nut holding it from the engine side. You did see that part, right?
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Oct 21, 2014 06:33
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some texas redneck posted:You did see that part, right? Yeah I got that one. I'll double check and make sure it was the right one.
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Oct 21, 2014 12:43
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Yeah I was gonna say we had the exact same problem and it was the engine-side bolt.
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Oct 21, 2014 16:12
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loving piece of poo poo! Heres the rear end in a top hat that caused much anger and yelling.
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Oct 22, 2014 02:16
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Well it was fun working on it and frustrating too but I sold the civic to a coworker that needed a ride.
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Oct 25, 2014 04:04
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Congrats! Now to find another project car 
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Oct 25, 2014 10:00
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Congrats! Now to find another project car I intend to. Theres a nice chevy nova for 1100 and has all the parts except the transmission. I may jump on it. Edit: Link to the one I'm looking at: http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/4712485836.html Senior Funkenstien fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Oct 26, 2014 |
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Oct 26, 2014 17:50
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Well it was fun working on it and frustrating too but I sold the civic to a coworker that needed a ride. I keep getting blue balls from these Civic threads. At least Doogle seems intent on keeping his.
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Oct 26, 2014 18:40
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revmoo posted:I keep getting blue balls from these Civic threads. I've been BUSY. This scotch ain't gonna drink itself.
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Oct 26, 2014 19:09
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Senior Funkenstien posted:I intend to. Theres a nice chevy nova for 1100 and has all the parts except the transmission. I may jump on it. I hope you didn't try to go anywhere near Dawsonville this weekend - the moonshine festival had traffic screwed 6 ways from Sunday!
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Oct 26, 2014 21:40
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jhcain posted:I hope you didn't try to go anywhere near Dawsonville this weekend - the moonshine festival had traffic screwed 6 ways from Sunday! I did not. I'm trying to see if I have the cash to spare on it first.
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Oct 26, 2014 22:10
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Link to the one I'm looking at: http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/4712485836.html I like the "transmission : automatic" followed by "Missing transmission". Looks like a fun project!
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Oct 26, 2014 23:13
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