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Turbo Fondant posted:lol as someone who's played with LS a bunch in truck applications and nothing else, the car accessories always have kind of an uncanny look to em cause it's all the same stuff just packed down where it should be rather than all stacked way up top. Having em in matte black on an orange block all 60s-like looks excellent though. Thanks! I'm really happy with how it turned out. I saw a guy that painted his LS Chevy orange a while back and that kinda sealed it for me painting mine. I didn't wanna go full nuts "make an LS look like a gen 1 SBC" (coil covers, single plane intake, round air cleaner, etc.), but I did want a little bit of "it's still a small block" flavor if that makes sense. I'm a sucker for the black wrinkle stuff so the valve covers were a no-brainer. Did I have to pay a little extra to get the black wrinkle front accessories? Yes. Do I regret doing it? Nope.  Today was super nice so I was out in the garage cleaning some stuff and hanging shelves and just generally trying to unfuck my life a little bit and decided to go get some hoses to finish things off a bit. Some 1/4" heater hose to hook the steam lines to the back of the water pump and some 3/8" hose for the PCV from the valve cover to the valley cover.  There's a PCV vent on the driver side valve cover as well, but I have no idea where to run that. I guess I'll just leave it capped? Oh, maybe I'll make a post in the marketplace thread, but I figure I'll throw it here, too. Does anyone want/need a Wix oil filter and a set of NGK plugs for an LS2? Acquired those early on in the project before I went a slightly different way. Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Mar 3, 2024 |
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Mar 3, 2024 21:31
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I'm not super familiar with the car style PCV system but I'm pretty sure the port on the valley pan should go to an inline PCV valve and then into a manifold port, and the other two on the valve covers should tee together and go into either the ccv port on the throttle body or if you haven't got one, just somewhere with metered, filtered air before the TB.
Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Mar 4, 2024 |
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Mar 4, 2024 17:51
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Turbo Fondant posted:I'm not super familiar with the car style PCV system but I'm pretty sure the port on the valley pan should go to an inline PCV valve and then into a manifold port, and the other two on the valve covers should tee together and go into either the ccv port on the throttle body or if you haven't got one, just somewhere with metered, filtered air before the TB. Yeah, you know, I was just coming back in here to post about that. I got curious and did some looking around and my routing is all wrong. That hose will come off and (hopefully) get reused to go somewhere else. It's an LS6 style valley cover with the integrated valve buried underneath between the knock sensors. From what I've seen, proper routing is passenger valve cover to throttle body, valley cover to intake manifold, and the driver side gets capped. Mine already has a little cap on it so that's staying for me. I'll make sure to get everything where it's supposed to go when the intake goes on.
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Mar 4, 2024 18:57
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So a while back I had an idea. Seemed like a good idea at the time. Dug into a bit of research for about 5 minutes and then got distracted by something else and moved on with my life. Well I came back around the general subject earlier this week and had the thought again. It still seemed like a good idea, so that means it probably is, right? So this thing's gonna need a radio, and while I'm still trying to figure out what exactly I want there, it's gonna need to be wired in. Now the harness I put in the car has all the standard radio goodies - 12v constant, 12v accessory, light, speakers, blah blah blah, but they're all just individual wires hanging out behind the dash. Annoying. Now I know that various companies sell little harnesses that you hook up to the harness for your aftermarket radio and then you can just plug it in to your factory harness and snip snop there you go. Well I have no factory harness so my thought was "why not install one?" So that's what I'm doing. I figure I'll get an OEM-style harness (and matching "installation" harness), wire that up to the wires in the car now, then when the time comes I can join the "install" harness and the radio harness and everything will just plug in. Rather than go completely random, I went with 4th-gen F-body for the harness. It's got all the connections I need, not much that I don't, and it matches the brakes for a bit of a theme. Not scheduled to get here until Monday so I won't be able to get to it this weekend, but at least it gives me something to do. 
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Mar 7, 2024 17:05
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I did the exact same thing on the C10. Only difference is because I was also installing a radio in my Ranger at the time, it's a Ford plug (sacrilege, I know). Also on that accessory drive, while I'm normally against running the steam line to the water pump (because if/when the pump needs to be replaced, now you have to redo that work) - if it's to a manifold that stays put and the pump is replaced separately, that's a really slick solution.
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Mar 7, 2024 17:19
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IOwnCalculus posted:I did the exact same thing on the C10. Only difference is because I was also installing a radio in my Ranger at the time, it's a Ford plug (sacrilege, I know). Yeah, I almost got a Jeep one because them shits are POPULAR so I figured reviews would be accurate, but I want this thing to actually work.  In all seriousness, this GM one is actually used in like a hundred different makes/models across GM so I figure it's fine. And yeah, the steam line connection is pretty nice. It is a big manifold/bracket thing and the the only part that spins and potentially gets replaced is that little round part right in the front. When the time comes, I gotta see if I can get an AC setup without the compressor since I already have a fancy black one.
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Mar 7, 2024 17:57
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Delivery for the car-side harness got bumped up to Saturday so maybe I will be able to go play with stuff this weekend. Neat!
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Mar 8, 2024 19:08
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Much success! Both of the harnesses showed up today as I was out in the garage moving some brackets for the console panel where the radio goes. Didn't take any pictures of that as the end result looks pretty much the same as it does when I started. Just had to move the mounts to clear the radio when I pick one. They would have interfered with a double-DIN so I wanted to get them out of the way just in case. Made sure the harnesses actually plug in to each other and they do and all of the wires line up as well. Couple extra ones but they just got taped up and tucked away. Got a bunch of heat shrink butt crimps and went to work on the car harness. Two wires' colors didn't match but I just referenced the diagram that came with the dash harness that I put in the car and it was no big deal. Labels are printed on the wires, too, which is pretty nice. The new harness labels are listed on the packaging so that will get saved for future reference if needed.  Once all the butts were shrunk down with the heat gun I grabbed the remainder of my wire loom stuff and wrapped it up all nice and neat. Radio wires and left front speaker split out and then the loom goes almost all the way to the passenger kick panel to hide the other three speakers' wires. Haven't fully secured the snake under the dash yet, but I will once the radio goes in and everything is in its final place.  Pretty happy with how it turned out. Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Mar 9, 2024 |
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Mar 9, 2024 23:11
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Well that's one problem solved.  Other things have developed and I should have some more pictures to take tomorrow.
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Mar 20, 2024 12:29
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Ok, two days since I didn't feel like making a post last night. Goodies! There's actually a third box en route. More on that in a bit.  So what did I get? Pretty much everything except for the kitchen sink. Transmission install kit (crossmember, pilot bearing, blah blah), bellhousing, indexing plate, clutch, hydraulic kit (TO bearing, pedal assembly, reservoir, etc.), and all other hardware and sundries. Pedal assembly. Got a spiffy little cylinder right on the pedal. If I remember right, when I was talking to the AP guy on the phone he said there were instructions on how to cut down the factory auto trans brake pedal to match the clutch pedal - maybe a template. Haven't flipped through the instructions yet, though. That weird marking on the top of the pedal arm is just condensation from my hand when I grabbed it. Been cold up here the past couple days.  Trans mount and bag-o-bolts.  Super modular crossmember. This thing's got adjustments all over the place. The end plates are model-specific to fit whatever frame or subframe you're dealing with, but the middle section is pretty slick. The middle section there has 2 sets of holes and can be flipped so it's technically got 4 heights it can live at and you can see the slots in the end plates that give a ton of back and forth adjustability. You can also see the 'savethestick' sticker in the background there. I thought about maybe putting it on the Mazda for a laugh (it is a 6-speed, after all), but I think it's just a bit too goofy with the skull so it'll probably end up on a cabinet in the garage.  Fancy pants throwout bearing and the cutest little fluid reservoir you ever did see.   Bellhousing and indexing plate were in the McLeod box. No stickers in that one, unfortunately. For those unfamiliar, the indexing plate is used to center the bellhousing relative to the crank. Stuff gets mounted and there's a dial indicator involved, measurements are taken and then you potentially buy offset dowel pins to get the bellhousing centered. It's a whole process, but it's not crazy complicated. That will probably happen when I pull the engine out so I can use the crane to hang the LS so I can access the back of it.  So where's the clutch? It's in the third box that is currently on its way to my house. That got dropshipped from the supplier so it didn't come from AP. It was all communicated well from AP with an email notification with shipping info and an information slip on the package that I received yesterday. So far, they've been a pleasure to deal with. Oh, everything was packed super well, too. I just pitched all the packing material before taking pictures. So I figure the general process will be: pull current engine/trans (for the final time), pull the LS off the stand momentarily to hang the bellhousing and measure that for centering and order dowels if needed (and torque the rear cover bolts I couldn't reach with it on the stand), install some stuff while I have the room (pedal, reservoir, we'll see what else), order and install a fuel system, drop in the LS, order the trans, order air/fuel/brains, order cooling and exhaust stuff, install all that bullshit, order driveshaft (from AP), install that, cross my fingers, turn the key, and hope for the best.
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Mar 22, 2024 14:07
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Pressure plate acquired.  Reached out to AP to see what they recommend for an actual clutch disc. Don't really need it right now, but I'll get it ordered eventually.
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Mar 23, 2024 02:41
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are you going T56 or TKX? that sure looks like a T56 bellhousing to me, but all that tremek stuff is probably pretty similar.
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Mar 23, 2024 06:08
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Raluek posted:are you going T56 or TKX? that sure looks like a T56 bellhousing to me, but all that tremek stuff is probably pretty similar. T56. I want all the gears. All of 'em.
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Mar 23, 2024 18:57
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hell yeah. that floor had it comin' to it, anyway.
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Mar 23, 2024 20:10
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Raluek posted:hell yeah. that floor had it comin' to it, anyway. Ha! I cut the floor and installed a tunnel extension when I redid the interior. Lookin' out for future me for once.
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Mar 23, 2024 20:33
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So I can't just get new parts and not go gently caress around with stuff so I went out in the garage and hosed around with some stuff. While there were great instructions packed with the TO bearing on installing that, I didn't have anything for the pedal assembly with the cute little attached master cylinder. Dug through the box again and found a little card pointing me to the manufacturer's website and youtube channel. Step in the right direction. They've got quite a few videos on their channel going over how to install the pedals in various cars, but they have no such video for Novas. They do, however, have one for first gen Camaros. And since we all know that third gen Novas are nothing more than first gen Camaros wearing a different shirt, that's good enough for me. Installation's actually pretty easy and can - thankfully - be done with the brake pedal bracket still in the car. Gotta do a little surgery on it with a death wheel so that's not much fun, but it's doable once I move some wires out of the way. First step is pop out the pin holding the brake pedal itself to the bracket. This clip (middle of picture) gets pulled off and the pin gets shoved out to the left.  Then the pin connecting the master cylinder rod gets removed from the pedal and the pedal pulls right out. I assembled it to the clutch pedal bracket with the new shaft and bushings and bolts (all provided) to see what kind of interference I'm looking at. Obviously less than ideal.  So I marked on the back of the brake pedal where the clutch pedal overlaps so I knew what I had to clear. I then ripped off the gross old pedal pad and marked the boundaries where the pedal arm is welded to the pedal surface (faint small marks on top of pedal in picture). Then I pulled the pad off the clutch pedal, traced the outline of the pedal onto some paper, then transferred that template to the brake pedal - centered over where the arm connects.  I'll trim that down and pick up a new pedal pad and then it will be ready to go back in the car.  Once the pedals go in, I'll drill a couple holes for the two lines - braided AN-3 for the TO bearing and rubber hose to the reservoir - and that will be it for inside the car stuff.
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Mar 23, 2024 21:29
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you know, most stuff is "AFX" and i have a third pedal pedal box for my A i can take reference pics and measurements from, if you'd like. my project is very similar (5.3L, T56, 69 chevelle) but i just bought a complete manual trans pedal box on ebay. it's just sitting on a shelf for now, so easy for me to get pics. i don't think the pedal pads are the same between the clutch and brake.
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Mar 24, 2024 00:10
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Nah, I shouldn't need any reference stuff. Appreciate it, though. The pedal kit comes with a sleeve and bolts that replace the factory pin that holds the brake pedal. The new pedal literally bolts in and rotates on the same factory pivot point. There's another little bracket built in that bolts to a factory hole. I'll do some research tonight on pedal pads before I make any permanent adjustments. Actually, just went out and monkeyed with some stuff while typing this reply and it turns out I don't need to trim anything in the car. Glad I looked or I would have chopped off that second bolt hole. Yikes. Like all jobs under the dash, it will be a bit of a pain in the rear end getting everything in place, but I'm able to get the bolts where they need to go and the pedal has full range of motion so I should be good. We'll see what needs to happen for brake pedal trimming and I may get this poo poo installed tomorrow. Edit: actually, poo poo, if you wanna go compare and measure the clutch and brake pedals, that would be awesome. Another edit: looks like 68-72 Novas share brake and clutch pads, but disc brake cars got the fancy "DISC BRAKES" insert on the brake pad. Sizes apparently changed in '73. Looks like clutch went smaller as the DISC pads supposedly fit '68-'79. I think I'd rather have the all rubber pad instead of the big metal insert. Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Mar 24, 2024 |
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Mar 24, 2024 01:19
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Edit: actually, poo poo, if you wanna go compare and measure the clutch and brake pedals, that would be awesome. ok so actually i was wrong. they do appear to be the same. i thought there was some sort of symmetry going on, but i must be thinking of something else.   brake pedal measures 2" high, 2-15/16" long on the top edge, 2-5/16" on the bottom edge.    the pads i have are just some sort of generic modern reproductions, no "DISC BRAKE!!!!!!" badging or anything. they're not marked, so idk what they are exactly.  
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Mar 24, 2024 04:58
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Thanks dude. Those pads look the same as what came on this clutch pedal so I think I'll be good grabbing something online. I appreciate those pictures and measurements of the pedal itself. That'll help make sure I'm trimming this thing in the right spot.
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Mar 24, 2024 13:32
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Your pedal looks maybe... 1/16" wider than this clutch pedal? Close enough for me to call it the same. Adjusted my cut marks a bit, clamped it down in the vise, and got to work with the hacksaw. Did a little cleanup with a flap disc and here we are.  Pad fits well.  Then the real fun began. Like all under-dash jobs, this was a huge pain in the rear end. And spine. And hands. Half of the work of lining poo poo up and turning bolts was done completely blind. I still need to clean the wiring up, obviously, but the pedal is in. I think I'll probably bend the clutch arm a bit once I get a pad on it, but it's pretty much done. Gotta make some holes for the lines but I'll wait until I get some grommets and figure out final routing of all the poo poo going on under there.  Three-pedal in a four door Nova. Tadaa.
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Mar 24, 2024 18:13
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hell yes, nice work dude. you had this thing finished before i was even out of bed.
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Mar 24, 2024 20:15
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Yeah, got an early start today. I've got the day off tomorrow so I may get back out there to try to clean that wiring up. There's a lot of extra stuffed in there so I may actually snip some out and put in some butt connectors or something. We'll see.
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Mar 24, 2024 21:44
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i don't like butt splices unless it's a necessary repair. imo the right way is to de-pin one end of the wire, cut to length, and crimp a new pin on. it probably doesn't matter, but you seem to be doing everything else the hard and right way, so...
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Mar 24, 2024 21:49
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Raluek posted:i don't like butt splices unless it's a necessary repair. imo the right way is to de-pin one end of the wire, cut to length, and crimp a new pin on. Yeah, I agree. Honestly, I'll probably just make some nice coils and zip them up out of the way.
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Mar 24, 2024 22:00
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Heard back from AP regarding the clutch disc and it's good news. They sell the recommended disc themselves, but apparently the package they offer recently changed to only include the pressure plate and not the whole thing. Dude over there sent me a quote for the friction disc (and alignment tool) with a 50% discount for the inconvenience. Done.
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Mar 25, 2024 18:52
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Lots done today, but not a lot of picture because I suck. First order of business was tidying up the wires that I just left dangling after the pedal install. Did not cut any wires. Just coiled them up with some small zip ties (remember to flush cut those ends) and tucked them away on a little hook that's under the dash for some factory wire management. Good stuff.  Decided then to get the little reservoir mounted so I could plan out where to put the whole to route the hose. Reservoir must be mounted above the master cylinder on the pedal so it had to be surprisingly high up on the firewall. My target was above 28 inches from the ground. Poke around, find a good spot, zip a couple holes, couple sheet metal screws, bing bong.  Hole for the hose will get poked a couple inches below where the throttle cable passes through. Need to get some rubber grommets and then I can run that hose and mark that as done. Then I spent some quality time with the hacksaw. When I installed the brake booster a million years ago, I had to adjust the opening in the firewall a bit (lowered) in order to use the factory mounting studs. This unfortunately left a bit of an opening on the top that I've wanted to do something about for a while. Decided to do that today. Took some aluminum bar, gave it a bit of the choppy choppy and where once there was a hole, now there is not. Again, no pictures because I suck, but I'll snag one tomorrow when I head back out. Next task was prepping for pulling the transmission. Got the car in the air, disconnected shift linkage, speedo cable, removed the mount bolts, pulled the driveshaft, and last thing was pulling the flexplate to torque converter bolts. Tomorrow will be cooler lines, vacuum line, crossmember, and the trans to block bolts. Dipstick may come off, may not. We'll see if it wants to put up a fight. Hopefully I'll get it yanked out of there.
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Mar 31, 2024 05:10
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Lots done today, but not a lot of picture because I suck. Obviously not, your getting poo poo done. Kudos
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Mar 31, 2024 14:15
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I'm really really bad for that, I've got two whole projects that I haven't posted about because I never think to stop and snap some pictures. Even the BMW I did partly as a joke I look back and... poo poo there's a ton of stuff I did the world will never see cause I didn't think to whip out my phone. Sure get a lot done tho...
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Mar 31, 2024 14:35
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And yeah, at this phase where there's a ton of stuff going on and your head goes up one side of your plan and down the other all the time so you get it all right and that's on top of the anticipation of driving it with all the new bits and... yeah it's real tough to document.
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Mar 31, 2024 14:41
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Thanks gents. First off, here's that block-off/blanking/cover my fuckup plate that I banged out yesterday. Couple notches to clear the bracket and a couple big slots to pick up the mounting studs. Hammered it back against the firewall once I had it tightened down and it's doing pretty much exactly what I wanted it to do.  First major operation today was getting the exhaust out of the way. Had to cut it just in front of the axle to actually get it out of there, but I'm not real broken up about that.  Then it was pulling the cooler lines, pulling the kickdown linkage off, pulling the vacuum line off, pulling the crossmember, and then fighting the trans to block bolts. I've got a horde of 3/8" drive extensions but I only needed one bigass extension, a u-joint, and a deep 9/16" socket. I swear, you could take half this car apart with a 9/16" socket. Now, I'd rigged up a platform on my floor jack to kind of cradle the trans pan so I could lower it down in a somewhat controlled manner. Well that very rapidly went completely loving sideways. The "ah poo poo" that left my mouth was the first of many. Through the power of rage and panic, I managed to get the drat thing wrestled down and onto the floor with everything staying in one piece - including myself. Shoved it out from under the car and eventually got it up onto one of the HF dollies.  It is... quite gross. I've got the day off tomorrow so maybe I'll wheel it around and hose it down with some degreaser. I'll see if I can't find some stamped numbers while I'm at it. I'm pretty sure this is the transmission that came with the car, but it'd be nice to confirm. I may start with disconnecting some poo poo on the engine too, we'll see. It's going to be so nice when all the new CLEAN poo poo goes back into the car. I need to give the underside a good scrub now that I've got all this poo poo outta the way. Edit: went out and cleaned off a couple places where numbers might be and found the partial VIN. It's the factory transmission. Time to move on to bigger and better things. Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Mar 31, 2024 |
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Mar 31, 2024 20:41
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Day off today, wanted to get a couple things done. I wanted to get the transmission looking at least a little better than it did when I pulled it so maybe somebody will eventually be a little more eager to buy it. It's pretty drat gross.   Hosed it down with some engine degreaser and let that soak while I went and played with some hoses. I'd already found a good spot to put the hole for the line from the pedal to the reservoir but was waiting on getting some grommets before I started running the drill. Picked up some grommets in the morning and the first hole went in without issue. Run the hose through the grommet (don't forget the lube), hook it up, and clamp it on. Piece of cake.  Now, if you look just above where the hose comes through the firewall there, you'll see a little plastic plug. I have zero idea what that is for. It's just a plastic plug that's filling a factory hole in the firewall. It's not hollow and there's nothing connected to either side of it. I had to hog out the hole a little bit so I could fit my other grommet and run the TO bearing line through that.  I don't know if I"m really happy with that location, though. I may reroute that entirely and just fill that hole with a new plug. We'll see what I think when the new engine goes in. With that done, I went back to the transmission and did some scrubbing and rinsing and more scrubbing. It's... better, but still not great.   I'd like to do a little more work on that to get it to where it's at least somewhat attractive for potential buyers. Anybody got recommendations on cutting through 50 years of road grime and oil leaks?
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Apr 2, 2024 15:26
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Oven cleaner works well, though I'd also call that good enough as it sits.
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Apr 3, 2024 03:08
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Simple green too, but yeah I wouldn't scoff at its current state as a prospective buyer.
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Apr 3, 2024 03:56
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Turbo Fondant posted:Simple green too, but yeah I wouldn't scoff at its current state as a prospective buyer. Simple green isn't safe for aluminum I thought.
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Apr 3, 2024 11:35
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Suburban Dad posted:Simple green isn't safe for aluminum I thought. I think you're correct but there are certain kinds of Simple Green made to be safe on aluminum.
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Apr 3, 2024 17:04
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Oven cleaner will eat aluminum. Simple Green Extreme is for aircraft and is safe for aluminum. It's also expensive. Personally I'd rather buy a used transmission that's a bit dirty than immaculate.
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Apr 3, 2024 18:30
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I ran through so much Simple Green cleaning this car when I bought it and then used it all and never bought more.  There are special aluminum-safe SG variants, but the regular stuff is usually ok if you don't let it sit. Spray, scrub, rinse off, and be quick about it. Probably wanna keep it off the really nice aluminum stuff, but I don't think it's gonna do much to an old transmission case. Apparently their Pro HD stuff is safe for aluminum so maybe I'll grab a gallon of that. Should last me quite a while with dilutions. Something that's been bothering me lately: why can't I get nice AN hose separators with mounting tabs? I've got something that I think will work for fuel line mounting, but I feel like the fancy billet hose separators should have an option for actually mounting the lines to something. Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Apr 3, 2024 |
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Apr 3, 2024 18:42
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Just a quick thing before the weekend when I can go tear some more poo poo apart. In my endless planning for this swap, I've been mapping out a cooling system. Standard radiator to thermostat and water pump stuff, but there will be a surge tank that ties in as well. I'm sure all you LS guys know all about it. I'll be using an aluminum tank with a fitting on the bottom that ties in to the line going from the heater core back to the engine. My plan was to get a 1/2" NPT to 3/4" hose barb adapter for the tank, a 3/4" hose barb Tee fitting to splice into the hose from the heater core, and a very short length of 3/4" hose to run between the barbs. This was mainly because I couldn't find a 3/4" barbed tee with a 1/2" NPT on the short end. Until yesterday when I thought "oh poo poo, wait, McMaster-Carr has like loving everything" and started digging around on their page. Turns out they totally have them and in multiple flavors. Found one specifically "for coolant" and is apparently good to 230 degrees Frankenstein. This was my first order from McMaster and I felt very grown-up when I hit that 'purchase' button. Went ahead and ordered 2 because they're only like 3 bucks each and the shipping was already like 8. They must have a distro center in Chicago or something, though, because I ordered these yesterday and I have them in my hand less than 23 hours later. This thing will thread straight into the tank and eliminate two hose connections in the coolant loop. Pretty cool. Not a big thing, but I was pretty happy to find them. Tomorrow will be finishing up a few things in the engine bay to prep for pulling the 350 and then depending on time, maybe I'll start tearing the fuel system apart.
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Apr 5, 2024 19:58
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More removing/disconnecting stuff today. Not very interesting so I didn't take any pictures. Drained the oil, radiator, and power steering pump. Removed the radiator, the trans cooler lines, and the previously mentioned power steering pump. PS pump didn't really need to come off, but it makes things a little more convenient. I took the hoses off and will be keeping them. The low pressure side will get reused on the LQ and I'll take the high pressure side to the local hydraulic hose place so I can tell them "I need a hose with this end on one side and AN-6 on the other please and thank you." Spun the nuts off the motor mount bolts so they can just be poked through when the time comes. Had to take the fuel pump off to get to the passenger side. Pain in the rear end. So that's pretty much it for the engine. Only thing keeping it in the car at this point is 2 bolts and some gravity. It's ready to go. With that checked off, I wanted to see if I could wrestle the old gas tank out. I hosed down the hanger strap nuts with some 'Kroil yesterday and they spun right off. Just snipped the little rubber fuel lines that ran from the tank to the hard lines and it came right out. Not much gas in it so I was able to pull it out without any drama. All that crap needs to get cleaned off, but I didn't really feel like doing that today.  Rental place is open tomorrow, but they've got pretty short hours. Don't know if I wanna dance with a hoist tomorrow or not. Still need to pull the hood off so maybe I'll work on that tomorrow and then rent the hoist next Saturday. We'll see.
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Apr 6, 2024 22:05
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