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Your thread is off to a great start! Can't wait to see more progress!
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Jul 19, 2014 09:08
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 21:28 |
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It's going to look sweet! 2 things, 225s are best on an 8in wheel. I would step up to 9in for the 245s, and 10in for the 275s. Some careful measurements and offset choosing (and possibly fender rolling) would be required, but it would look phenomenal.
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Dec 31, 2014 15:47
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Sorry I'm of no help but I gotta say it's going to look awesome with those wheels!
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Jan 20, 2015 03:05
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That's a bad rear end hoist! I can't do motors with that much slack in the chain. Also the come along thing is a great idea, if you've ever used a load leveler, you'd know they rarely do much good, and are a pain to adjust under load. It's too late on the mounts, but what I usually do is have them loose on the pedestal to motor or pedestal to cross member (which ever is easier to get to) and then slowly tighten them up and lower the motor once everything is close. They usually pop right into place this way, and it's the only way I've been able to do engine swaps by myself. Get rid of the metal fan! Since you're "retromodding", get a Volvo/Taurus/Contour efan setup (they move a lot of cfm and usually one of them should fit your rad), Volvo 2 speed efan relay, Saab coolant tee, VW efan 2 speed switch, wire it up and you have a dummy proof almost OEM efan setup.
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Apr 25, 2015 14:58
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I forget, did you do the front suspension bushings? If you did, and you tightened it up at full droop, that's probably why the front is so high. You have to tighten them up under load. I usually put the front tires on ramps before tightening everything, give it a few bounces, then torque everything to spec. You could also remove the tires, loosen everything, place a jack under the knuckle, jack it up til it starts to lift the car, then tighten everything. Sway bars need both wheels load though.
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Jun 2, 2015 03:59
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My preferred method for a standalone efan is a Volvo relay, 2 speed fan of your choice (the Volvo one is great), a Saab 900 coolant t, and a 2 speed vw sensor with on and off temps of your choosing.
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Oct 3, 2015 00:40
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Yep, the vw sensor threads right into the Saab T. You can't use the stock Saab switch because it's the overheating ac cutoff (like 220F). I think you could use something ignition related for relay control. The thing is, the Volvo relay is setup to be always hot, with the controls being ground by the ECU. What you could do is wire a dpdt relay to the controls, and have the relay bridge the connection when hot (key in run), so that it disconnects the circuits when the key is off.
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Oct 3, 2015 07:19
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This is what it looks like: http://m.ebay.com/itm/381379608551?_mwBanner=1 I think it's on the passenger side hose. Pretty easy to spot.
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Oct 3, 2015 23:08
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Sorry to send you on a wild hunt, I didn't know they were NLA and I used to trip over Saabs in the yard. Went there this weekend, only car of the right vintage was already missing the T. At least all the metric stuff is straight threads so drilling and retapping a cheap eBay one should be easy.
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Oct 5, 2015 02:52
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 21:28 |
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Looks good! You should be able to find a 5/6 pin relay connector with a mounting provision at your local electronics store.
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Oct 18, 2015 23:16
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