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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Kind of a derail, but is there any reason not to use the paper gasket and high tack? I hate globbing RTV onto everything, but if it works better I can do that.

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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

First one's here! I'll get it mounted tomorrow and get it on the car. I got some new lug nuts and I'm very happy to see that they're long enough. Annoyingly, they're sold in packs of 4 and not 5. Oh well.





5 sets of 4 will still do the whole car. Makes sense if you're doing the whole car since you have 4 wheels, and the manufacturer doesn't know how many lugs per wheel you've got.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YJi3G2oUOfY

Although I haven't been able to find it in the SO catalog. There seem to be other brands available.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Maybe it's just me, but it looks like the driver side light is not put in straight. Usually there is a tab on the bulb, and a notch in the bucket. So, if it really is crooked, either the bulb isn't seated in the bucket right, or the bucket isn't lined up to the car right. I think?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

It's not straight, but it's not keyed. I can probably loosen a couple screws and spin it, but I'm not worried about it.

Oh, strange. The ones on my Impala are, I wonder why they changed them.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Have you considered getting an NPT-to-whatever adapter fitting so you can just stick the VW sensor into the head somewhere, or similar?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

Ended up getting pretty close. Happy with the height.


Looks good. You also might get another inch or so once you have the hood and everything back on, and the springs settle.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Why are you rebuilding the motor? Got big plans? If the bores and bearings still look good (and they do in the pictures, from what I can tell) I'd have just left it alone.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

Plans include going to .030" over and a 4" stroke to make a 408/6.7L with LS3/L92 heads and intake. Heads on this engine were junk and apparently one of the rods is tweaked. I had every intention of going 408 anyway so when I found this bargain it was hard to pass up.

Sounds like a plan :getin:

wallaka posted:

The L92 itself is all-aluminum and 6.2L/370 cubes. It motivates my Escalade pretty well, and it's easily stroked to 416 or 427. It's a cheaper LS3, basically.

It is almost exactly a cheaper LS3. Just ditch the cam phasing and put on an LS3 timing cover, timing set, cam, and intake, and you have pretty much a straight-up LS3. Can't wait for those Escalades to get cheaper and older.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
I'm interested in what you pick for seats, since I'll have to do something similar at some point. Every time I go to the junkyard I look through all the euro cars, hoping I might find something nice, but so far no dice. Something like a 944 seat would look great and they seem pretty comfortable, but whenever I see one of those in the yard the seats are pretty much destroyed for some reason.

Are you considering any used seats, or are you just going for something new to match all the other new stuff in your interior?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

Well, I went hunting for a bolt this weekend and came up empty. Ace has grade 8s up to 6" long, but I need a 7". Inch short. Story of my life. Bolt Depot's got them, but I really don't want to spend 8 bucks to ship a 3 dollar bolt. I may end up doing it anyway, though. We'll see. Picked up some step bits from HFT. Hopefully this one will last for the two holes I need it to make and not end up like my last one.

If anyone has a 7/16" x 7" grade 8 bolt laying around not being used...

Did you try Fastenal? I've only had middling luck with them in the past, but they at least claim to carry those. The size of your local store will probably determine how much of the less common stuff they'll have on hand, though.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
As far as I know, all truck harnesses are the same. Look at one of those swap guides to see what harness bits you need. I haven't started that yet, so I don't have a good resource to point you to yet, though.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

poo poo, man. You're working on turboing a car that's already been swapped. I'd say you're well ahead of me.

If it helps, my project has just been sitting in a field waiting for me to have time and money simultaneously for several years. Empty engine bay. You're doing good.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Looks good, although I'm surprised you didn't use red like the old SS stripes.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
I dunno how you can be so patient. If my project car was at the point yours is, I'd be either driving it around with the stock seat until the buckets showed up, or farting around town on a lawn chair. If it runs moves and stops, I'd be so ready to drive it.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
I forget, what carb do you have on there? Does it have a sight glass in the float bowl?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

Would you guys concur with no fuel out of the carb feed on crank, pump is borked? I can pick up a cheap pump, gasket, and a chunk of fuel line for probably 25 bucks. I'll try to get that done this weekend and get this turd fired back up.

Either that or a gunked line/pickup/tank. You could try siphoning something out of the fuel line, or running a (clear) hose from the existing fuel pump to a small container of gas and see if it sucks any up, but for $25 I'd be pretty tempted to just toss another one on there. Then again, this whole motor is coming out eventually anyway...

If you're keeping it for awhile, I'd get a 4-bbl manifold and literally any other carb, but that's probably because I have no idea how a rochester works and yet I'm familiar with Holleys and Edels. :shrug:

E: Wait, did you have the tank out or disconnected to do the rear end? Do we know there's gas in there :newlol:

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

Tank's never been out of the car or disconnected. I know for a fact there's some gas in it so it's not pulling from an empty tank. Feed hose in a container of gas is a good idea, though. drat. Wish I would have thought of that before I pulled the pump off. I'm trying to throw as little money as possible at this lump since it is technically temporary, but a new fuel pump setup is something I can swallow. If i can find an intake and 4bbl for super duper cheap, I'll pick it up. Summit's got a whole 4bbl kit (carb, intake, gaskets, etc.) but it's almost 500 bucks. If I'm dropping that sort of coin on engine parts, they're gonna be Gen III/IV.

I had a spare performer RPM a couple years ago, but I gave it away to my neighbor, sorry. Would have sent it to you for the price of shipping :(

Check Craigslist? Might find something cheap
E: Yeah around here it looks like you can grab an intake for $50 and a carb for another $50. Probably similar over there?

Raluek fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Jun 27, 2017

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

Ding ding. Yeah, it's just a stock mechanical pump. No electron voodoo here.


poo poo dude, I'm honestly up for whatever in the 450cfm range. If I can wake this anchor up for next to free, I'll try it. I can probably get a cheapo intake of craigslist.

600CFM edelbrock or 650 (i think that's the common size) holley would do ya right up. I dunno that I would do a smaller carb than that on a 350. I had a 600 Edel on my 327, and it ran perfect without any twiddling.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
If you're gonna plunk a 4-barrel on there, you might think about upgrading to the bigger pump anyway?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

It's prob this. Unless something is way fuckered, it should at least chunk into gear if you have fluid in it.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

So I just said gently caress it and bought supplies for both oil and trans fluid changes. Banged that out and put the 2 quarts I bought plus the half quart I had of ATF back in it. Manual says 2.5 quarts after a drain. Fired it up and let it run for a bit in neutral. Checked the stick and it's still low. poo poo. Gonna need to run out somewhere and pick up some more juice.

In other news, holy gently caress this thing smokes. Looks like it's mainly coming out of the exhaust manifolds. Well not necessarily out, but off, you know? I can only assume that it's just junk settled in there and it'll burn off in time, but it's pretty gnarly. Not much of an update here, but oh well.

Yeah anytime you touch the headers you'll get greasy fingerprints on it, and if they are cheapies that came painted, the paint will all burn off in short order.

Also, usually those trans fluid capacities don't include the torque converter. 2.5 also seems pretty low, what trans is in it? TH350? https://www.tciauto.com/tc/fluid-capacity

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

TH350, yeah. Again, manual says refill capacity is "approximately 2.5 qts.". I'm guessing since it's been sitting unloved for so long that most of the fluid that stays up in the guts has drained down into the pan (and then out when I changed the fluid). I didn't get much of a stream when I pulled the drain plug so I'm thinking it was pretty low to begin with. Exhaust manifolds are the stock irons, btw. I'm guessing they're just covered in gunk and whatever from sitting for so long. I need a bigger fan for the garage...

Ah, yeah it's probably giving you the capacity for a normal pan-drop replacement. Between the torque converter and all the little passageways, the dry capacity is much higher. I've added 3 or 4 qt to my TH350 before when it was low enough to be majorly slipping, and as far as I can tell it's got the stock pan on it.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
I also keep up with this thread, but don't want the thread to turn into *content post* "cool good job" *content post* "cool good job"

Anyway, looks like it's turning out nicely. For future reference, the ideal way to DIY form foam like that is using resistance wire. Next time you see a junk toaster, bust some out of it, or spend like $5-10 on Amazon for a spool of the stuff.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

LloydDobler posted:

And we live for this poo poo.

Seriously, reading this thread (and others) motivates me to get some work (or even planning or any little poo poo I can) on my own projects.

Plus, I catch myself thinking "yeah, it's got for doors, so what?" about my own car more than I'd like to admit.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
A couple years ago I had a bench seat quoted at $450 for foam and cover. Didn't end up having it done, so I can't tell you what quality of work that buys, though.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

StormDrain posted:

A 64 Galaxie ragtop, purchased by my dad in the early 90s, maybe late 80s, and hasn’t run since. We worked on it a lot when I was a kid but it stagnated since oh, 1998.

I just put an offer in on a house with a large enough garage to work on it and he’s as excited to clear it out of the shop as I am to have it.

:swoon: I love the '64 galaxie, a 500 XL (2-door fastback hardtop, bucket seats) with an FE and a 4-speed is the car I will eventually replace my Impala with, I think. Somedayyyy~ :allears:

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Some Guy From NY posted:

It looks better when you had the 2 yellow strips of tape on. Make the yellow line like the 2 strips of tape looked. That 1 thin stripe looks weird and underwhelming in my opinion.

Make these the stripes:

I like this idea, kinda like iron sights. But the front/rear sights would be reversed, so idk

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

LloydDobler posted:

Very nice. We want video when you do a burnout.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
You also need to know if it's supposed to be switching the high side or the low side, but since there are two wires it's probably the high side. If it was low side, I'd expect it to get its ground from the chassis, and only have one wire out.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
I prefer black, like GM started doing on later motors, but there's nothing wrong with Chevy Orange. I think the LSX even comes that way.

I just personally think that a sleek modern motor looks kinda weird that way. If you're gonna stick a distributor and carburetor on it, I think orange would look appropriate. But I hope you're not.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
how does a machine shop not have a machinist

i guess im used to mom n pop operations where there are no actual front of house employees, its just the owner and maybe a couple others who do all the work and also ring sales up and answer phones and stuff

weird as hell. guess thats 2020 in a nutshell

what does the motor need? anything you can DIY?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

StormDrain posted:

The lettering and the yellow stripe look great together. Fantastic choices all around.

And yep you certainly cursed yourself. A thing made before 2000 (and also I worked myself up two decades between conceptualizing this sentence and typing it) has a 50 - 50 - 50 chance of being in stock, two weeks out, or only available from a hoarders stach.

...you probably don't want the mustache pinion seal. who knows where that thing's been.

also i kinda disagree with the above, since it's an AFX (in this case X) there should be parts out the rear end pretty much everywhere. it's the default "modified car" anyone has, and gm used the same parts everywhere, mostly

i think you can judge whether you're inside civilization by whether you can get parts for a sbc, or a 10-bolt, or a th400

you lose points in epeen contests online, but sometimes it does pay to have a popular/common platform

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
congrats dude, but it sounds like you might have stuck at the same job for too long!

it's stupid that the only way to keep your wage up with market value is to switch every handful of years, but thats the way it is. luckily, it sounds like your boss is willing to be somewhat flexible, even if he's the reason you have been underpaid for this long

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
yeah man, if it was me, i would be making sure the brakes work and it's not leaking fuel too bad, then driving it to work the next day to see what happens, lol

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

Then all the bearings can go back in (with oil), crank back in, and caps back on. Then the cam goes in, timing set goes on, and check for cam movement. Again, all perfect.

no assembly lube? just oil? is that a thing?

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

Guess it's time to do a little more shopping. Who do you guys like for flywheels?

have you considered sourcing a junk flexplate, from a junkyard or some spare motor or whatever, so you dont have to drop money on your actual flywheel yet? i think sbc ones fit too, they just wont line up with the starter or trans quite right, but hopefully should be fine for locking the crank

surely someone has one laying around?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
every time i get rid of parts i later regret it, lol

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
how strong are the rafters in your garage?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

it's kind of paused until I spend $Texas on some cylinder heads.

oh? that sounds interesting. i thought the truck heads already flowed pretty good, so this must be extra special

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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

To keep the general lifetime theme of my absolute poo poo luck, the CNC LS3 heads have been discontinued and are no longer available. :argh:

Factory LS3 heads it is, then.

I was going to ask where you got them, since I wasn't able to find any info on them besides "no, go away", but figured I was missing something. regular LS3 heads are probably good enough! or you could go get something fancy like AFR or whatever the current hot poo poo is

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