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IOwnCalculus posted:I did the exact same thing on the C10. Only difference is because I was also installing a radio in my Ranger at the time, it's a Ford plug (sacrilege, I know). Yeah, I almost got a Jeep one because them shits are POPULAR so I figured reviews would be accurate, but I want this thing to actually work.  In all seriousness, this GM one is actually used in like a hundred different makes/models across GM so I figure it's fine. And yeah, the steam line connection is pretty nice. It is a big manifold/bracket thing and the the only part that spins and potentially gets replaced is that little round part right in the front. When the time comes, I gotta see if I can get an AC setup without the compressor since I already have a fancy black one.
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Mar 7, 2024 17:57
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Delivery for the car-side harness got bumped up to Saturday so maybe I will be able to go play with stuff this weekend. Neat!
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Mar 8, 2024 19:08
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Much success! Both of the harnesses showed up today as I was out in the garage moving some brackets for the console panel where the radio goes. Didn't take any pictures of that as the end result looks pretty much the same as it does when I started. Just had to move the mounts to clear the radio when I pick one. They would have interfered with a double-DIN so I wanted to get them out of the way just in case. Made sure the harnesses actually plug in to each other and they do and all of the wires line up as well. Couple extra ones but they just got taped up and tucked away. Got a bunch of heat shrink butt crimps and went to work on the car harness. Two wires' colors didn't match but I just referenced the diagram that came with the dash harness that I put in the car and it was no big deal. Labels are printed on the wires, too, which is pretty nice. The new harness labels are listed on the packaging so that will get saved for future reference if needed.  Once all the butts were shrunk down with the heat gun I grabbed the remainder of my wire loom stuff and wrapped it up all nice and neat. Radio wires and left front speaker split out and then the loom goes almost all the way to the passenger kick panel to hide the other three speakers' wires. Haven't fully secured the snake under the dash yet, but I will once the radio goes in and everything is in its final place.  Pretty happy with how it turned out. Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Mar 9, 2024 |
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Mar 9, 2024 23:11
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Well that's one problem solved.  Other things have developed and I should have some more pictures to take tomorrow.
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Mar 20, 2024 12:29
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Ok, two days since I didn't feel like making a post last night. Goodies! There's actually a third box en route. More on that in a bit.  So what did I get? Pretty much everything except for the kitchen sink. Transmission install kit (crossmember, pilot bearing, blah blah), bellhousing, indexing plate, clutch, hydraulic kit (TO bearing, pedal assembly, reservoir, etc.), and all other hardware and sundries. Pedal assembly. Got a spiffy little cylinder right on the pedal. If I remember right, when I was talking to the AP guy on the phone he said there were instructions on how to cut down the factory auto trans brake pedal to match the clutch pedal - maybe a template. Haven't flipped through the instructions yet, though. That weird marking on the top of the pedal arm is just condensation from my hand when I grabbed it. Been cold up here the past couple days.  Trans mount and bag-o-bolts.  Super modular crossmember. This thing's got adjustments all over the place. The end plates are model-specific to fit whatever frame or subframe you're dealing with, but the middle section is pretty slick. The middle section there has 2 sets of holes and can be flipped so it's technically got 4 heights it can live at and you can see the slots in the end plates that give a ton of back and forth adjustability. You can also see the 'savethestick' sticker in the background there. I thought about maybe putting it on the Mazda for a laugh (it is a 6-speed, after all), but I think it's just a bit too goofy with the skull so it'll probably end up on a cabinet in the garage.  Fancy pants throwout bearing and the cutest little fluid reservoir you ever did see.   Bellhousing and indexing plate were in the McLeod box. No stickers in that one, unfortunately. For those unfamiliar, the indexing plate is used to center the bellhousing relative to the crank. Stuff gets mounted and there's a dial indicator involved, measurements are taken and then you potentially buy offset dowel pins to get the bellhousing centered. It's a whole process, but it's not crazy complicated. That will probably happen when I pull the engine out so I can use the crane to hang the LS so I can access the back of it.  So where's the clutch? It's in the third box that is currently on its way to my house. That got dropshipped from the supplier so it didn't come from AP. It was all communicated well from AP with an email notification with shipping info and an information slip on the package that I received yesterday. So far, they've been a pleasure to deal with. Oh, everything was packed super well, too. I just pitched all the packing material before taking pictures. So I figure the general process will be: pull current engine/trans (for the final time), pull the LS off the stand momentarily to hang the bellhousing and measure that for centering and order dowels if needed (and torque the rear cover bolts I couldn't reach with it on the stand), install some stuff while I have the room (pedal, reservoir, we'll see what else), order and install a fuel system, drop in the LS, order the trans, order air/fuel/brains, order cooling and exhaust stuff, install all that bullshit, order driveshaft (from AP), install that, cross my fingers, turn the key, and hope for the best.
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Mar 22, 2024 14:07
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Pressure plate acquired.  Reached out to AP to see what they recommend for an actual clutch disc. Don't really need it right now, but I'll get it ordered eventually.
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Mar 23, 2024 02:41
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Raluek posted:are you going T56 or TKX? that sure looks like a T56 bellhousing to me, but all that tremek stuff is probably pretty similar. T56. I want all the gears. All of 'em.
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Mar 23, 2024 18:57
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Raluek posted:hell yeah. that floor had it comin' to it, anyway. Ha! I cut the floor and installed a tunnel extension when I redid the interior. Lookin' out for future me for once.
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Mar 23, 2024 20:33
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So I can't just get new parts and not go gently caress around with stuff so I went out in the garage and hosed around with some stuff. While there were great instructions packed with the TO bearing on installing that, I didn't have anything for the pedal assembly with the cute little attached master cylinder. Dug through the box again and found a little card pointing me to the manufacturer's website and youtube channel. Step in the right direction. They've got quite a few videos on their channel going over how to install the pedals in various cars, but they have no such video for Novas. They do, however, have one for first gen Camaros. And since we all know that third gen Novas are nothing more than first gen Camaros wearing a different shirt, that's good enough for me. Installation's actually pretty easy and can - thankfully - be done with the brake pedal bracket still in the car. Gotta do a little surgery on it with a death wheel so that's not much fun, but it's doable once I move some wires out of the way. First step is pop out the pin holding the brake pedal itself to the bracket. This clip (middle of picture) gets pulled off and the pin gets shoved out to the left.  Then the pin connecting the master cylinder rod gets removed from the pedal and the pedal pulls right out. I assembled it to the clutch pedal bracket with the new shaft and bushings and bolts (all provided) to see what kind of interference I'm looking at. Obviously less than ideal.  So I marked on the back of the brake pedal where the clutch pedal overlaps so I knew what I had to clear. I then ripped off the gross old pedal pad and marked the boundaries where the pedal arm is welded to the pedal surface (faint small marks on top of pedal in picture). Then I pulled the pad off the clutch pedal, traced the outline of the pedal onto some paper, then transferred that template to the brake pedal - centered over where the arm connects.  I'll trim that down and pick up a new pedal pad and then it will be ready to go back in the car.  Once the pedals go in, I'll drill a couple holes for the two lines - braided AN-3 for the TO bearing and rubber hose to the reservoir - and that will be it for inside the car stuff.
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Mar 23, 2024 21:29
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Nah, I shouldn't need any reference stuff. Appreciate it, though. The pedal kit comes with a sleeve and bolts that replace the factory pin that holds the brake pedal. The new pedal literally bolts in and rotates on the same factory pivot point. There's another little bracket built in that bolts to a factory hole. I'll do some research tonight on pedal pads before I make any permanent adjustments. Actually, just went out and monkeyed with some stuff while typing this reply and it turns out I don't need to trim anything in the car. Glad I looked or I would have chopped off that second bolt hole. Yikes. Like all jobs under the dash, it will be a bit of a pain in the rear end getting everything in place, but I'm able to get the bolts where they need to go and the pedal has full range of motion so I should be good. We'll see what needs to happen for brake pedal trimming and I may get this poo poo installed tomorrow. Edit: actually, poo poo, if you wanna go compare and measure the clutch and brake pedals, that would be awesome. Another edit: looks like 68-72 Novas share brake and clutch pads, but disc brake cars got the fancy "DISC BRAKES" insert on the brake pad. Sizes apparently changed in '73. Looks like clutch went smaller as the DISC pads supposedly fit '68-'79. I think I'd rather have the all rubber pad instead of the big metal insert. Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Mar 24, 2024 |
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Mar 24, 2024 01:19
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Thanks dude. Those pads look the same as what came on this clutch pedal so I think I'll be good grabbing something online. I appreciate those pictures and measurements of the pedal itself. That'll help make sure I'm trimming this thing in the right spot.
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Mar 24, 2024 13:32
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Your pedal looks maybe... 1/16" wider than this clutch pedal? Close enough for me to call it the same. Adjusted my cut marks a bit, clamped it down in the vise, and got to work with the hacksaw. Did a little cleanup with a flap disc and here we are.  Pad fits well.  Then the real fun began. Like all under-dash jobs, this was a huge pain in the rear end. And spine. And hands. Half of the work of lining poo poo up and turning bolts was done completely blind. I still need to clean the wiring up, obviously, but the pedal is in. I think I'll probably bend the clutch arm a bit once I get a pad on it, but it's pretty much done. Gotta make some holes for the lines but I'll wait until I get some grommets and figure out final routing of all the poo poo going on under there.  Three-pedal in a four door Nova. Tadaa.
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Mar 24, 2024 18:13
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Yeah, got an early start today. I've got the day off tomorrow so I may get back out there to try to clean that wiring up. There's a lot of extra stuffed in there so I may actually snip some out and put in some butt connectors or something. We'll see.
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Mar 24, 2024 21:44
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Raluek posted:i don't like butt splices unless it's a necessary repair. imo the right way is to de-pin one end of the wire, cut to length, and crimp a new pin on. Yeah, I agree. Honestly, I'll probably just make some nice coils and zip them up out of the way.
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Mar 24, 2024 22:00
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Heard back from AP regarding the clutch disc and it's good news. They sell the recommended disc themselves, but apparently the package they offer recently changed to only include the pressure plate and not the whole thing. Dude over there sent me a quote for the friction disc (and alignment tool) with a 50% discount for the inconvenience. Done.
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Mar 25, 2024 18:52
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Lots done today, but not a lot of picture because I suck. First order of business was tidying up the wires that I just left dangling after the pedal install. Did not cut any wires. Just coiled them up with some small zip ties (remember to flush cut those ends) and tucked them away on a little hook that's under the dash for some factory wire management. Good stuff.  Decided then to get the little reservoir mounted so I could plan out where to put the whole to route the hose. Reservoir must be mounted above the master cylinder on the pedal so it had to be surprisingly high up on the firewall. My target was above 28 inches from the ground. Poke around, find a good spot, zip a couple holes, couple sheet metal screws, bing bong.  Hole for the hose will get poked a couple inches below where the throttle cable passes through. Need to get some rubber grommets and then I can run that hose and mark that as done. Then I spent some quality time with the hacksaw. When I installed the brake booster a million years ago, I had to adjust the opening in the firewall a bit (lowered) in order to use the factory mounting studs. This unfortunately left a bit of an opening on the top that I've wanted to do something about for a while. Decided to do that today. Took some aluminum bar, gave it a bit of the choppy choppy and where once there was a hole, now there is not. Again, no pictures because I suck, but I'll snag one tomorrow when I head back out. Next task was prepping for pulling the transmission. Got the car in the air, disconnected shift linkage, speedo cable, removed the mount bolts, pulled the driveshaft, and last thing was pulling the flexplate to torque converter bolts. Tomorrow will be cooler lines, vacuum line, crossmember, and the trans to block bolts. Dipstick may come off, may not. We'll see if it wants to put up a fight. Hopefully I'll get it yanked out of there.
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Mar 31, 2024 05:10
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Thanks gents. First off, here's that block-off/blanking/cover my fuckup plate that I banged out yesterday. Couple notches to clear the bracket and a couple big slots to pick up the mounting studs. Hammered it back against the firewall once I had it tightened down and it's doing pretty much exactly what I wanted it to do.  First major operation today was getting the exhaust out of the way. Had to cut it just in front of the axle to actually get it out of there, but I'm not real broken up about that.  Then it was pulling the cooler lines, pulling the kickdown linkage off, pulling the vacuum line off, pulling the crossmember, and then fighting the trans to block bolts. I've got a horde of 3/8" drive extensions but I only needed one bigass extension, a u-joint, and a deep 9/16" socket. I swear, you could take half this car apart with a 9/16" socket. Now, I'd rigged up a platform on my floor jack to kind of cradle the trans pan so I could lower it down in a somewhat controlled manner. Well that very rapidly went completely loving sideways. The "ah poo poo" that left my mouth was the first of many. Through the power of rage and panic, I managed to get the drat thing wrestled down and onto the floor with everything staying in one piece - including myself. Shoved it out from under the car and eventually got it up onto one of the HF dollies.  It is... quite gross. I've got the day off tomorrow so maybe I'll wheel it around and hose it down with some degreaser. I'll see if I can't find some stamped numbers while I'm at it. I'm pretty sure this is the transmission that came with the car, but it'd be nice to confirm. I may start with disconnecting some poo poo on the engine too, we'll see. It's going to be so nice when all the new CLEAN poo poo goes back into the car. I need to give the underside a good scrub now that I've got all this poo poo outta the way. Edit: went out and cleaned off a couple places where numbers might be and found the partial VIN. It's the factory transmission. Time to move on to bigger and better things. Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Mar 31, 2024 |
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Mar 31, 2024 20:41
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Day off today, wanted to get a couple things done. I wanted to get the transmission looking at least a little better than it did when I pulled it so maybe somebody will eventually be a little more eager to buy it. It's pretty drat gross.   Hosed it down with some engine degreaser and let that soak while I went and played with some hoses. I'd already found a good spot to put the hole for the line from the pedal to the reservoir but was waiting on getting some grommets before I started running the drill. Picked up some grommets in the morning and the first hole went in without issue. Run the hose through the grommet (don't forget the lube), hook it up, and clamp it on. Piece of cake.  Now, if you look just above where the hose comes through the firewall there, you'll see a little plastic plug. I have zero idea what that is for. It's just a plastic plug that's filling a factory hole in the firewall. It's not hollow and there's nothing connected to either side of it. I had to hog out the hole a little bit so I could fit my other grommet and run the TO bearing line through that.  I don't know if I"m really happy with that location, though. I may reroute that entirely and just fill that hole with a new plug. We'll see what I think when the new engine goes in. With that done, I went back to the transmission and did some scrubbing and rinsing and more scrubbing. It's... better, but still not great.   I'd like to do a little more work on that to get it to where it's at least somewhat attractive for potential buyers. Anybody got recommendations on cutting through 50 years of road grime and oil leaks?
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Apr 2, 2024 15:26
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I ran through so much Simple Green cleaning this car when I bought it and then used it all and never bought more.  There are special aluminum-safe SG variants, but the regular stuff is usually ok if you don't let it sit. Spray, scrub, rinse off, and be quick about it. Probably wanna keep it off the really nice aluminum stuff, but I don't think it's gonna do much to an old transmission case. Apparently their Pro HD stuff is safe for aluminum so maybe I'll grab a gallon of that. Should last me quite a while with dilutions. Something that's been bothering me lately: why can't I get nice AN hose separators with mounting tabs? I've got something that I think will work for fuel line mounting, but I feel like the fancy billet hose separators should have an option for actually mounting the lines to something. Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Apr 3, 2024 |
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Apr 3, 2024 18:42
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Just a quick thing before the weekend when I can go tear some more poo poo apart. In my endless planning for this swap, I've been mapping out a cooling system. Standard radiator to thermostat and water pump stuff, but there will be a surge tank that ties in as well. I'm sure all you LS guys know all about it. I'll be using an aluminum tank with a fitting on the bottom that ties in to the line going from the heater core back to the engine. My plan was to get a 1/2" NPT to 3/4" hose barb adapter for the tank, a 3/4" hose barb Tee fitting to splice into the hose from the heater core, and a very short length of 3/4" hose to run between the barbs. This was mainly because I couldn't find a 3/4" barbed tee with a 1/2" NPT on the short end. Until yesterday when I thought "oh poo poo, wait, McMaster-Carr has like loving everything" and started digging around on their page. Turns out they totally have them and in multiple flavors. Found one specifically "for coolant" and is apparently good to 230 degrees Frankenstein. This was my first order from McMaster and I felt very grown-up when I hit that 'purchase' button. Went ahead and ordered 2 because they're only like 3 bucks each and the shipping was already like 8. They must have a distro center in Chicago or something, though, because I ordered these yesterday and I have them in my hand less than 23 hours later. This thing will thread straight into the tank and eliminate two hose connections in the coolant loop. Pretty cool. Not a big thing, but I was pretty happy to find them. Tomorrow will be finishing up a few things in the engine bay to prep for pulling the 350 and then depending on time, maybe I'll start tearing the fuel system apart.
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Apr 5, 2024 19:58
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More removing/disconnecting stuff today. Not very interesting so I didn't take any pictures. Drained the oil, radiator, and power steering pump. Removed the radiator, the trans cooler lines, and the previously mentioned power steering pump. PS pump didn't really need to come off, but it makes things a little more convenient. I took the hoses off and will be keeping them. The low pressure side will get reused on the LQ and I'll take the high pressure side to the local hydraulic hose place so I can tell them "I need a hose with this end on one side and AN-6 on the other please and thank you." Spun the nuts off the motor mount bolts so they can just be poked through when the time comes. Had to take the fuel pump off to get to the passenger side. Pain in the rear end. So that's pretty much it for the engine. Only thing keeping it in the car at this point is 2 bolts and some gravity. It's ready to go. With that checked off, I wanted to see if I could wrestle the old gas tank out. I hosed down the hanger strap nuts with some 'Kroil yesterday and they spun right off. Just snipped the little rubber fuel lines that ran from the tank to the hard lines and it came right out. Not much gas in it so I was able to pull it out without any drama. All that crap needs to get cleaned off, but I didn't really feel like doing that today.  Rental place is open tomorrow, but they've got pretty short hours. Don't know if I wanna dance with a hoist tomorrow or not. Still need to pull the hood off so maybe I'll work on that tomorrow and then rent the hoist next Saturday. We'll see.
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Apr 6, 2024 22:05
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Something along those lines, yeah. Only problem is that the pump end has this crazy double-bent hard line section that I think is just going to cause more problems than it solves if I try to use it. Also, I'm not opposed to replacing a 50+ year old rubber hose.  I'm heading to a birthday brunch today that I completely forgot about (and it's for my birthday...) so I will not be getting that hoist. Unfortunately, next weekend is looking iffy as well, but I can at least do some cleaning and mapping of the fuel system even if I don't pull this anchor out.
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Apr 7, 2024 14:06
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Yeah, it kinda wraps around the bottom of the pump after snaking around some stuff and then the fitting goes into the back of the pump. It's kinda goofy. I'll see what it looks like when the LQ goes in, but I'm planning on getting a new one made.
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Apr 7, 2024 14:30
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Yeah, it's a new "Type 2" pump with an AN fitting on a hard line. Pump: https://www.holley.com/products/ls_...s/parts/198-101 Line: https://www.holley.com/products/ls_...s/parts/198-203 With the line attached to the pump, the opening points pretty much straight to the driver's side. The opening on the OEM pump pointed straight back so even if I had an adapter I don't think that OEM hard line would be too happy trying to make a hard right turn into the pump. Appreciate you guys looking out for me.
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Apr 7, 2024 21:10
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Another boring update this weekend. Wife's car was unavailable yesterday and this morning as expected so the hoist was not rented and therefore the anchor remains in the car. The lovely weekend was not wasted, however. Pulled all of the old fuel lines out of the car yesterday. It's all getting replaced with AN stuff so it all came out. Today was then spent cleaning and tidying. Literally cleaning the body above the gas tank with soapy water and a scrub brush and then tidying the engine bay a bit with pulling the old e-fan wiring and the charcoal canister. Also mapped out where the new fuel lines (feed and return), filter, and regulator will go. Ordered another set of brackets as I'm going to need a few more to finish up. Once I get the tank and regulator I'll figure out what kind of angles I'm going to need for my fittings and see how much hose it's going to take to plumb this thing. I plan on getting all my hose and fittings from RaceFlux as they run their own manufacturing and store so they've got some kickass discounts at certain price points. I'd originally planned on getting the plumbing done before the LQ went in, but now I think I'm going to put that in first so I kinda know where my finish line is for the fuel line. I'll get the regulator mounted first and then order fittings once I know exactly where stuff is gonna go. No pictures today as it would have just been a big pile of old crap. Oh well. Hopefully I'll get some movement next weekend.
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Apr 14, 2024 23:38
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Once that discount kicks in they are pretty drat good. 30% on $149+ takes a big bite out of it when you're buying a couple hundred dollars worth of poo poo.
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Apr 15, 2024 04:11
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Glorious progress! First order of business was going and renting the hoist. Drag all the poo poo home and put it together and then discover that the hydraulic ram doesn't move. poo poo. Take that back and swap it for another one that does work. Tested that one while I was picking it up. Go back home and then get to work. Hook it up, put some tension on it, wiggle things around a bit, and then bang out the mount bolts with a socket extension and a hammer. Then it's just up-up-and-away. I did lower the car back to the ground to buy myself a couple free inches of "lift". Popped it on an HF cart for the time being.  Then I grabbed the LQ and set that down on my other cart (wrestled the transmission off of it for the time being) so I could play with the bellhousing. If you're not familiar, the bellhousing opening (and therefore the trans input shaft) should be centered to the crankshaft. This cuts down on side loads on the input shaft, makes shifting easier, and has the potential to possibly free up a couple horsepower. I attempted to get this done alone but quickly discovered that I couldn't so I had to wait for my wife to get back home. More on that in a bit.  I did have some other poo poo to do so I wasn't just waiting around twiddling my thumbs. Last weekend or the weekend before, I pulled the gas tank and cleaned up the tank hangers. Wire wheeled, primed, and painted with caliper paint. Last week I ordered some 1/8" rubber so today I hosed them down with Super 77 and stuck things together.  Stuck some strips on the body where the old stuff was and put the hangers back with some shiny new hardware.  As I was cleaning up my mess from that, my wife got home. I needed her to turn the engine via crank bolt while I read the dial indicator on the back. Installed the indexing plate, set up the indicator and had her give it some spins. Unfortunately, I did not get incredibly lucky and have my regular straight dowels put things where they need to be. I'm gonna order some .007" offset dowels and I'll be good.  I'd fully expected the need to order some offset dowels so I'm not really disappointed that the LQ didn't go in today. That's exactly what I figured would happen. Hopefully I'll get them later this week and I can get the bellhousing aligned and ready for install. With that settled, I picked the shitpile back up and hung it on the stand...  ...and tucked away the LQ ready for more bellhousing shenanigans. The strap is just a little bit of insurance that it stays tight on the cart.  Then I went and returned the hoist. If all goes according to plan, I'll go rent it again next weekend. Yeah it kinda sucks tossing money at rentals, but it's way cheaper than buying one that I'd have to figure out where to store. Space is already at a bit of a premium out there. I'm gonna go run out tomorrow and grab some new mount bolts. Hopefully by this time next Saturday that LQ will be sitting on the mounts.
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Apr 20, 2024 21:24
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Oh, something I forgot to mention in the above post - I don't recall who pointed it out, but that "replace this bolt with a longer one to hold the fuel pump pushrod on an SBC" trick totally works. I pulled the fuel pump off to get to the engine mount bolt and wanted to reinstall it after getting it on the stand. Thread is 3/8"-16 for anyone playing along at home.
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Apr 21, 2024 13:58
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Suburban Dad posted:Do AutoZone and oreilley rent hoists for free? I've always used them for specialty tools I've been too lazy or cheap to buy. Through inertia I still don't own a pickle fork, spring compressor, or rear brake piston tools. Mine doesn't. Nothing that big. I've borrowed other stuff from them, slide hammers, bigass torque wrenches, steering wheel pullers, etc. Hand tools, mainly.
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Apr 21, 2024 17:26
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Nidhg00670000 posted:It is so easy, yeah. Especially compared to other "tricks" I've seen on the internet. I mean, that has to be the purpose of that hole, right? The short factory bolt does nothing. I was jacking around with needle-nose pliers and a screwdriver before I remembered the bolt thing and was having a hell of a time. With the engine on a stand!. I can't believe I swapped that thing out with it still in the car.
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Apr 21, 2024 22:42
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Yeah, I can't imagine it has any other use than for ease of assembly. Also, you don't have to find a separate bolt to thread in there, I think I just used one of the fuel pump mounting bolts. Ah, yeah that'd probably work. I grabbed an extra engine stand bolt.
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Apr 22, 2024 17:26
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Big day yesterday. The patient:  Gave everything a good wipe down while I had the access. Didn't really need to scrub much as it hasn't had much action since the last cleaning. The supplies:  Processing...  Surgery was a success!  Bitch and a half getting everything lined up. Positioning 3D objects is a pain in the rear end. Ended up loosening the bolts on the engine-side mounts to get myself just a little bit of wiggle room. Got the through-bolts sent home and then torqued those back down. I ended up banging off the lower hose connection to the heater core and must have hosed something up in there because I had a pool of coolant on the floor of the garage when I was done and the lower hose barb is a bit wiggly. Super loving annoying, but whatever. I'll put it on the list. I'm just glad this part's done.
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Apr 28, 2024 14:10
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So I've got a small horde of poo poo to get rid of and most of it is good enough to where I'm going to try to actually sell it. Laying on the couch last night dicking around on my phone (standard evening stuff) I decided to go ahead and make some FB Marketplace posts for a few things. Engine, trans, and a combo listing for trans crossmember and driveshaft. Need to take some pictures of the other stuff. Not 20 minutes later I start getting dings about the transmission. I've been talking with my dad about selling this stuff and he's actually posted a couple simple listings on the bulletin board at his local tire shop for me. Only problem is that he's about 300 miles away from me and there's no loving way I'm delivering any of this poo poo. He actually had somebody ask him about the engine but he made it very clear that the dude is on the hook for coming and getting the drat thing. Interest on his end has waned. I told my dad not to worry about it and that, based on my geographical location, I'd probably find some Wisconsin redneck (not derogatory, those are my people) building a derby car looking for a cheap smallblock to blow up at a county fair. So here I am last night messaging with a guy about the transmission and he's ready to come down and get it this evening. Guy's from Racine Wisconsin. I check out his FB profile just to have a look around and what's his cover photo? Demo derby. Called it. As silly as it is, it makes me feel kinda good about having an original piece of this car live on for at least a little while and potentially go out in a blaze of glory. Had a couple dudes ask about the 350 as well so I may be able to move that thing out pretty soon. That'd be nice.
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May 8, 2024 13:49
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Welp, got a dude on the hook to come get the engine on Saturday. Be nice to put some cash in my pocket so I can then instantly turn around and spend it. Got another guy asking questions about the driveshaft, but that's a pretty slow burn so far. No nibbles on the gas tank yet, but it's still early. Edit: engine's gone. Drive shaft dude has gone quiet, but that's not taking up too much space. Nice to be rid of the old anchor, though. Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 23:24 on May 11, 2024 |
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May 10, 2024 01:53
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 07:33 |
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honda whisperer posted:Sending off old car parts shiny and chrome is the best way to do it. Much better than scrap metal. Agreed. There's still life in the parts, but it's not my life. Like I said, dude came and picked up the 350 yesterday. Seemed like an alright dude. He's got a shortbed squarebody that he's gonna drop it in. Should be fun with a four barrel and some headers. I was out there cleaning some stuff up after he left and it occurred to me that I could (and probably should before I forget) put the low pressure power steering hose on. The low pressure side (return) just goes from the steering box back to a regular barb fitting on the pump with a hose clamp. No fancy fittings needed. There's a very conveniently located threaded hole in the crossmember that I made use of with an adel clamp around the hose to keep things tidy. Once I get the high pressure side hose made I'll use another clamp on that same bolt to hold that one in place as well.  Might give the hose joint a call this week and see if I can get something going.
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May 12, 2024 20:43
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