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mafoose posted:Hey doogle, would you mind posting or emailing me your timing map? I'll have to rip it off my ecu, if you can wait until Monday I'll shoot you a copy of the tune so you can take a look at everything. Nodoze posted:A B18 can take that alright? Probably! doogle fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Sep 20, 2014 |
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Sep 20, 2014 03:26
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Awesome thanks so much!
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Sep 20, 2014 04:13
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Seat Safety Switch posted:That sounds more like someone tried to apply full throttle with the wheels locked. Like a stock B18A+automatic can make enough power off idle to snap a CV joint  (or, well, at any RPM, it cranked out a whole 130 hp). It was a ~1 or 2 week old half shaft too, I chalked it up to defect.Nodoze posted:A B18 can take that alright? It can if you throw enough money at it! ... so a scattershield is in the plans, right? I'd hate to see the carnage from a flywheel disassembling itself at 10k.
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Sep 20, 2014 06:27
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The guy that owns that melted piston has another motor that has seen 13.5k a few times and survived. I've ridden in his old coupé, that one had fuel cut at 9.7k on a big shot of nitrous.
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Sep 20, 2014 07:45
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mafoose posted:Awesome thanks so much! I forgot to bring my laptop today when we started the car, I'll bring it by tomorrow and get that map for you.  Basically just have to put the hood, bumper, fender liners and lights then get a tune. Here is a short idle video, it was pretty annoying to keep it running because it cams so hard it would die without a little throttle input. I need to adjust the idle about 100 rpm higher and it should be all right. http://youtu.be/XmNF3TMuc_A -Replace rubber hoses with ones that are long enough -Install valve cover and catch can -Install new fuel filter and fuel line -Wire the boost solenoid -Wire the wideband -Install front fender liners -Put the damper pulley on and replace alternator belt -Pull the turbo off and rerun the water line behind the dipstick -Replace rear T bracket with one that isn't broken -Replace axle -Install extended lugs on rear hubs -Reinstalled shifter linkage -Add fluids and start the bitch -Install bumper, hood, and lights -Get a tune (11 October)
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Sep 24, 2014 01:32
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doogle posted:I forgot to bring my laptop today when we started the car, I'll bring it by tomorrow and get that map for you.  That little video clip sounds great, can't wait to hear this thing full tilt again.
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Sep 24, 2014 05:20
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doogle posted:I forgot to bring my laptop today when we started the car, I'll bring it by tomorrow and get that map for you. Thanks! Engine should be back together this week. My friend says your bottom end is built like a tank! I'm seriously considering buying an EF or EG hatch...
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Sep 24, 2014 06:22
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mafoose posted:Thanks! Engine should be back together this week. Get an EG man, the money I saved initially buying an EF was quickly lost due to higher parts costs for pretty much every EF specific thing. Unless you get a CRX, then it is worth it. What is your email address? You can PM me if you want.
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Sep 25, 2014 02:37
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It's my username at gmail! What makes a crx worth it? I always see early ones for sale, but I think the last ones look best.
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Sep 25, 2014 03:47
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CRXs are one of the lightest Civics (and at least for me, I think they're the best looking Civic ever made). Even just dropping in an EG D16Z6 makes them loving move. They also drive like a loving go-kart. The 2nd gens are the best to get. 1st gens are a lot more cramped, and use torsion bar suspension, while 2nd gen has a lot more room under the hood (and independent suspension on all 4 corners) (and you can drop any B/D series in easily). We'll just pretend the 3rd gen (sold as the Del Sol in the US) doesn't exist for purposes of this discussion. Forward of the B pillar, the 2nd gen is basically an EF coupe. I would do naughty things to get my hands on a 90-91. Just sayin.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:44 on Sep 25, 2014 |
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Sep 25, 2014 09:38
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some texas redneck posted:CRXs are one of the lightest Civics (and at least for me, I think they're the best looking Civic ever made). Even just dropping in an EG D16Z6 makes them loving move. They also drive like a loving go-kart. As a former EF owner and amateur compeitive autox enthusiast... In E Stock I was spanking the equivalent D-Stock CRXes with ease. The EF is clearly the superior chassis.
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Sep 25, 2014 14:15
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mafoose posted:It's my username at gmail! Well, I tried to pull the tune off of the ECU for the past couple days with no luck. Apparently my S300 decided to break while the car was sitting. It will still run the car but I cannot connect to it through SManager. I called up Hondata and they told me my best bet is to upgrade to S300 V3 which has bluetooth map changing and logging. I had to pay another $250 to upgrade, this car is a money black hole. My newly rebuilt transmission is having a hard time going into 1st gear as well, the builder told me the carbon synchros take a bit to break in, but I don't buy it. In the end it will get fixed, hopefully without costing me more money. The tune date is on 4 October at RLZ, Hondata is overnighting the new board, hopefully the stars align and everything works out this time. gently caress this car, I hope it blows up on the dyno so I can just throw it away.
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Sep 26, 2014 02:34
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Getting the tune tomorrow, I'll let you guys know how it goes when I get back. I had Hondata send my new chip with overnight shipping so I could get it and load a basemap to test it, but Fedex decided to miss my house 2 days in a row somehow and I had to drive about 40 miles each way to go pick it up from their distribution hub.
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Oct 4, 2014 04:47
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Good luck tomorrow!!! FedEx has been terrible here lately too, so bad that I have the gf go pick it up from their distribution center on her way home. My buddy is almost done putting his car back together.  I'm tuning 2 volvos tomorrow so I probably won't get to see his car, we'll see if it survives the night. PS even just a screen shot of your final timing map would be an immense help, I mostly need a baseline to go from. mafoose fucked around with this message at 08:52 on Oct 4, 2014 |
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Oct 4, 2014 08:47
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The car is tuned, unfortunately there are three problems with the car, two will need to be addressed before the car is on the road: -The transmission was put together incorrectly, it is nearly impossible to put into 1st or 2nd gear. -The ECU is damaged which is most likely what killed my Hondata. -The car makes too much power and will kill me. (519 whp@9400 rpm/325 wtq@6500) That is a low boost tune as well, the injectors were hitting about 90% duty cycle on the last pull so the tune ended there. I thought 1000cc injectors would cut it for 93 octane, but I need at least 1300cc, maybe 2000cc to max out this turbo. The previous car was going over 20 psi with the same motor/turbo, the 519hp pull was done at 15psi with the upgraded valvetrain. http://youtu.be/-is8Mz3cpQE edit: I'm heading over to the shop tomorrow to clean up some wiring (we had to wire the fuel pump with larger gauge wiring directly to the alternator because the fuel pressure was dropping), I'll download the tune and send it to you or screenshot it or whatever you want. edit 2: the tuner sent me the map, I'm emailing it to you now. doogle fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Oct 5, 2014 |
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Oct 5, 2014 03:59
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Holy poo poo that thing sounds mean! My cousin has had a few 90's civics with engine swaps that were fun to scoot around in but jesus, that is some serious performance.
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Oct 5, 2014 05:30
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Holy mother of gently caress, I haven't heard anything that angry in a long time. 
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Oct 5, 2014 18:08
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doogle posted:The car makes too much power and will kill me. (519 whp@9400 rpm/325 wtq@6500)
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Oct 5, 2014 18:15
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That is indeed batshit. I get uneasy in my friend's mini-me Civic. I couldn't imagine that kind of power in a Civic.
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Oct 5, 2014 18:47
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This is a good car.
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Oct 5, 2014 18:56
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Having now built two iterations of this engine, if you were to start with a blank sheet, what would you do differently?
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Oct 5, 2014 18:58
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InitialDave posted:Having now built two iterations of this engine, if you were to start with a blank sheet, what would you do differently? When I first bought the EF I bought it because it was $500. I didn't plan on making it fast or anything, I just planned on driving it. I then drove my friend's 300hp Honda and wanted a car like that. At this point I should have bought an Integra or EG Civic to build. Instead I kept the EF and spent an extra ~$1500 over what it would have cost me to put the same set up in an EG just because EF specific parts cost more money. After swapping everything in the EG, I was out another ~$1000 (After selling the EF parts at a loss) from mounts, switching to a hydro trans, etc. For the actual motor, I would have gotten a GSR block sleeved at the stock bore instead of the LS motor sleeved at 84mm. 84mm is fine for boost, but if I ever need to bore it more I might run into head gasket issues with boost. If this motor blows up and I have to go to 85mm, I will probably make it a high compression NA motor so I don't have the head gasket issues. For the transmission, I should have bought one from Synchrotech already built. It would have only a couple hundred more than what I paid for this one, but it would have worked out of the box instead of me having to take it back to the trans shop for adjustment and I could have gotten it in a week instead of a few months. Other than that, the car is scary fast for fairly cheap. I have a mid 400whp BMW 135i for a daily driver and that feels about as fast as a V6 Mustang in comparison to the EG. I took the Civic down the road and with hot tires it spins until 5th but once it hooks it is terrifying, even compared to the EF. I put the lights in the car, the headlight lenses are cracked and fogged up so I ordered some sweet ebay ones to replace them, if they are too horrible I'll get some OEM replacements down the line. At least I can drive it down the road now. I'm going to install the fender liners tomorrow and reinstall the traction bars. Hopefully the ECU gets back to me by Friday.  In this picture you can see the remains of the EF in the upper left corner. quote:
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Oct 5, 2014 19:32
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InitialDave posted:That's just batshit. It's not a superbike if it can't wheelie off the throttle in third gear. It's not a performance car if it can't roast the tires in every non-overdrive gear.
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Oct 5, 2014 20:26
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A Melted Tarp posted:It's not a performance car if it can't roast the tires in every non-overdrive gear.
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Oct 5, 2014 20:40
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InitialDave posted:It roasts the tyres in overdrive is what he's saying... Good.
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Oct 5, 2014 20:41
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Hot drat.
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Oct 6, 2014 01:55
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mafoose posted:
What cams is he using? My switch from ITR cams to GSC cams picked me up over 60whp at the same boost level, and the turbo spools about 900 RPM more quickly (I also ceramic coated the turbo manifold, turbo hotside, have a turbo blanket and heat wrapped exhaust now so that could have helped the spool a bit). Did you get the tune file I emailed you?
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Oct 6, 2014 02:54
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9400 RPM, 519 whp ... Gat dayum 
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Oct 6, 2014 03:22
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My Rhythmic Crotch posted:9400 RPM, 519 whp ... Gat dayum You'd build up some strong arms from the torque steer
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Oct 6, 2014 08:33
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 You're gonna die.
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Oct 6, 2014 11:57
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You Am I posted:You'd build up some strong arms from the torque steer http://youtu.be/7ZYolCsEMBs Here is the dyno video of the old car, it made 357 whp @8400 RPM on 12 psi (The license plate said TQSTEER). It was tuned to 20 psi but it was doing a burnout on the dyno so I don't have accurate numbers but it is safe to say it made over 400 whp. http://youtu.be/yDgKt-3VLYU And here is a 2->4 gear pull with the old car with hot MT ET street drag radials. My Rhythmic Crotch posted:9400 RPM, 519 whp ... Gat dayum The worst part about it is the motor was balanced to 11k RPM, the head is capable of 12k RPM, and the turbo doesn't run out of efficiency until ~24 psi. All I need is a better fuel system (pumps, larger lines and injectors), an aftermarket ignition system and a tune and I could be hitting high 500s on pump gas, high 600s on E85 or c16. doogle fucked around with this message at 13:23 on Oct 6, 2014 |
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Oct 6, 2014 12:59
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How scary is turning in this thing..
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Oct 6, 2014 16:05
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Nodoze posted:How scary is turning in this thing.. It understeers quite a bit. It has 225/50/15s on the front and 205/50/15s on the back, no sway bars, and neutral camber front and back so it is set up to go in a straight line. I might have to raise the rear a bit to help keep the weight on the front wheels as well, which will make it handle even worse. For driving on the street it is fine as long as you aren't trying to accelerate through the corners. It is fun to power out of them though. I have the BMW for tracks with turns, this guy is only going straight.
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Oct 6, 2014 17:21
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You still owe me a ride from the EF. I'm free when you are.
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Oct 6, 2014 18:58
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I'll let you know when the new ECU gets back from getting socketed and the transmission issue is fixed. edit: This has 2 front seats too, so you don't have to sit in the back.
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Oct 6, 2014 19:53
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You say "powering out of corners", but what I hear you saying is "brand new tires are reduced to a pile of smoking rubber and belts in seconds". Both are equally fun.
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Oct 6, 2014 19:56
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Yesssssss. Get hype  You only owe me because you dashed my RT4WD dreams and told me that the suspension is kinda poo poo.
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Oct 6, 2014 19:57
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doogle posted:It understeers quite a bit. It has 225/50/15s on the front and 205/50/15s on the back, no sway bars, and neutral camber front and back so it is set up to go in a straight line. I might have to raise the rear a bit to help keep the weight on the front wheels as well, which will make it handle even worse. How much power reduction are we talking to make it a viable (read: wont understeer you into oblivion) turny road fun car
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Oct 6, 2014 23:48
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Nodoze posted:How much power reduction are we talking to make it a viable (read: wont understeer you into oblivion) turny road fun car If I put sway bars on it, ran a square tire set up, had a corner balance and alignment, I still wouldn't want more than 300hp in this car. And even at that level I would still probably short shift or run very low boost in 1st through 3rd. If I ran a high compression NA set up with ~230hp it would probably be a lot faster than it is now around a track. The torque steer really isn't that bad, it is a lot better than an SRT4 or Speed3 which are the only other high HP FWD cars I've driven. edit: This car weighs in at around 1900 lbs with a full tank of gas, the old car was in the 1600s. But this one has a dash, heat, power windows and maybe one day, carpet!
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Oct 7, 2014 00:15
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I really want to see you take this to the drag strip and see what kind of times it puts down. This thing is crazy as a regular daily driven civic, probably gets a lot of looks when you crack the throttle. I've skimmed the last little bit, and it's not like you need more power, but have you looked into e85? I wish it was more available up north here to just see how much of a difference it is, watching the latest mighty car mods gramps episode they had some impressive gains just switching to the higher ethanol blend and playing with timing. What I'm saying is, make this thing completely undrivable 
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Oct 7, 2014 01:23
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