|
divx posted:Are prime95 and memtest86 still the go to for testing cpu thermals and memory stability? Just used memtest86 last week to determine the RAM in my main desktop had gone bad. I didn't bother to figure out which stick(s) failed, and just bought another 32GB kit that seems to outperform the last set. They're both DDR4 3600 C16, but the new kit seems to have faster subtimings.
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2024 07:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 23, 2024 19:39 |
|
|
divx posted:Are prime95 and memtest86 still the go to for testing cpu thermals and memory stability? For DDR4 memory stability check out this link: https://github.com/integralfx/MemTestHelper/blob/oc-guide/DDR4%20OC%20Guide.md#memory-testing-software For DDR5, you can use the above but you will also want to use something to benchmark your memory to see if you are getting the speeds you should be. There is on-die error correction on DDR5 but it won't report errors to the OS. Instead, you just get degraded performance. That same guide has some recommendations for benchmarking: https://github.com/integralfx/MemTestHelper/blob/oc-guide/DDR4%20OC%20Guide.md#benchmarks tldr: - ddr4: TM5 with Extreme by anta777 configuration - ddr5: AIDA64 cache and memory benchmark (found under tools) and compare to the bandwidth you should be getting for your memory speeds (i don't have a link handy for that)
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2024 14:50
|
|
|
Any recommendations for a small electric screwdriver? I work on Chromebooks at my job and I've burned up first a no-name $35 electric screwdriver and more recently a more expensive Wowstick. I'd like something that will save my wrists from unscrewing a billion screws every day and will actually last for more than three months.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2024 17:26
|
|
|
Thank you. My new 7800x3D with a Phantom Spirit has peaked at 70C in prime95 after about 20 minutes. That seems way too good to be true
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2024 03:29
|
|
|
drat, same CPU and cooler get to 85c in Cinebench for me.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2024 05:32
|
|
|
I've got a Roku TV and I loathe ads. With all this business about them forcing me to agree to non-arbitration terms and potentially launching a service to put ads over paused content, I'm looking to future-proof my setup against this tomfoolery by disconnecting my TV from the internet and using a third-party device. I typically just Chromecast from my phone to the TV rather than using the native apps directly, and prefer that more svelte experience over having to navigate menus via a remote. I have an ancient Gen 2 Chromecast attached to the TV, too, but it shudders too much with any YouTube content over 30fps and is occasionally inconsistent with other apps. What are my options? I'm attracted to the idea of getting a previous-gen Chromecast Ultra since I like the minimalist form factor of the older Chromecast, but since they're not being made anymore it looks like I have to take a gamble on an eBay purchase. Reading around I don't see anyone saying particularly positive things about its replacement, the Chromecast with Google TV. I'm not in the Apple ecosystem and don't really want to be, so the Apple TV doesn't really appeal to me.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2024 23:03
|
|
|
feedmyleg posted:I've got a Roku TV and I loathe ads. With all this business about them forcing me to agree to non-arbitration terms and potentially launching a service to put ads over paused content, I'm looking to future-proof my setup against this tomfoolery by disconnecting my TV from the internet and using a third-party device. I typically just Chromecast from my phone to the TV rather than using the native apps directly, and prefer that more svelte experience over having to navigate menus via a remote. I have an ancient Gen 2 Chromecast attached to the TV, too, but it shudders too much with any YouTube content over 30fps and is occasionally inconsistent with other apps. You should do that thing people do at the router level to block ads. I can't remember if it's just a DNS change or if this is the pi-hole thing, someone else can likely hone in on it a bit more.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2024 23:36
|
|
|
Just get an Apple TV. You don’t need to be in the ecosystem to use the best box on the market.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2024 00:02
|
|
|
I had 2 pi-holes (you always need 2 DNS-es on your network, so that you can upgrade one and still have functional internet), now I'm on 1 Adguard and 1 pi-hole (Adguard in a VM and the pi-hole on an actual RPi I had laying around). They work fine, but you have to remember, they block domains. There are ways an application provider can go around them, such as loading them from a generic domain. I do not know what Roku does. The safest thing is to, of course, unplug it from the internet. Now, I do not know what services do you use, would a computer work? Something like a NUC?
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2024 00:03
|
|
|
It sounds like you're talking about a pihole yeah. I had one set up for a while but ended up removing it due to streaming drm not working when it was enabled. Well, not DRM, but whatever kicks off the ads. It would work great for a few weeks, then the ad networks or streaming service would figure it out and refuse to play the video without viewing the ads. Then the pihole would update and work for a few more weeks until the cat/mouse game flipped again. Ultimately not worth it to me, although it made general browsing much more bearable without needing extensions or apps. No idea how it will interact with Roku ads, but might not fit the bill here. I just cast to my tvs built in Chromecast which works well, but the OS has ads loving everywhere . I would vote for Apple TV.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2024 00:07
|
|
|
bbcisdabomb posted:Any recommendations for a small electric screwdriver? I work on Chromebooks at my job and I've burned up first a no-name $35 electric screwdriver and more recently a more expensive Wowstick. I'd like something that will save my wrists from unscrewing a billion screws every day and will actually last for more than three months. You could ask in the tool thread (https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3384038) if you don't get any joy here. I just bought a 3.6V Makita set but that's likely overkill for what you are after, and I haven't used it enough to give you a fair opinion.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2024 04:22
|
|
|
Htpc is the only way. No idea why people put so much trust in random black boxes
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2024 07:22
|
|
|
MarcusSA posted:Just get an Apple TV. You don’t need to be in the ecosystem to use the best box on the market. I never managed to stream/cast video from an Android phone to an AppleTV. Maybe I'm an idiot but there are like a dozen for-pay apps on the Google Play store, which promise to solve this problem so I assume it is not just me being an idiot. So, if you're not already in the Apple ecosystem, you might find this less convenient than just getting a new chromecast. CloFan posted:It sounds like you're talking about a pihole yeah. I had one set up for a while but ended up removing it due to streaming drm not working when it was enabled. Well, not DRM, but whatever kicks off the ads. It would work great for a few weeks, then the ad networks or streaming service would figure it out and refuse to play the video without viewing the ads. Then the pihole would update and work for a few more weeks until the cat/mouse game flipped again. I set up a pihole with the goal of getting rid of youtube ads. It turns out, they serve the ads from the same machines as the video content, so pihole can't do poo poo about it. What's more, when the pihole blocks the DNS records for Youtube's ad targeting APIs, youtube responds by jacking up the number of ads you see. I suddenly had two-three non-skippable ads for every video. Supposedly this is because Youtube can't keep track of how many ads you've watched already, so they default to serving you the maximum. I no longer run a pihole. I can't speak to how well it works for blocking Roku ads, but I assume they will have their ways to get around it. With IPv6, they could even hardcode a set of IP addresses in their software, and you will be unable to block the traffic on a DNS level. You'd need to use a firewall and blacklist those particular servers. Next, they'll update the IPs in the next firmware update and the cat-and-mouse game is on. HalloKitty posted:Htpc is the only way. No idea why people put so much trust in random black boxes My HTPC is my favorite personal belonging but I would not trust anyone but me or my wife to be able to stream a Youtube video onto it. It does also not run netflix, which we don't care about. Hippie Hedgehog fucked around with this message at 10:16 on Apr 19, 2024 |
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2024 10:04
|
|
|
A friend of mine is an aspiring pilot who can't afford a computer for MSFT and I'm thinking of giving it to her. I'd need to build something to replace it. If I were poking around Facebook for parts, what's the sweet spot for a graphics card these days? I'm ideally looking to spend no more than about $850 on the whole build. I'm coming from a 1080ti and didn't feel a super strong need to upgrade, so I'm not expecting much.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2024 13:46
|
|
|
Are you talking about hardware for *your* needs or a flight sim PC for MSFS? Or a little of both? If your system is older and rocking a 1080ti, it might be pretty anemic for MSFS too. MSFS is very power hungry. It'll take whatever you can give it. X3Ds are the reigning champ and last I checked the Nvidia cards (3080+-4070+) had the edge over AMD, but that may have changed. On a PC, it's a matter as beefy of a PC and graphics card that your budget allows and desired resolution will also greatly impact. You might want to post in the Games sub Flight Sim thread - https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3942445 Actually, maybe consider buying her an Xbox and keeping your computer if you're generally happy with it? I understand MSFS runs on an XBox reasonably well, but I've never used one so I have zero clue how it works with the controller, but I'm pretty sure you're going to want some input accessories.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2024 15:38
|
|
|
slidebite posted:Actually, maybe consider buying her an Xbox and keeping your computer if you're generally happy with it? I understand MSFS runs on an XBox reasonably well, but I've never used one so I have zero clue how it works with the controller, but I'm pretty sure you're going to want some input accessories.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2024 15:56
|
|
|
I need to buy a bunch of SSD drives for my old PS3s and PS4s consoles (four of those things). Speed is not a concern considering the devices involved don't really take advantage of the faster SSDs. I'd say my requirements are: 1TB storage size, reliable, and very power efficient -- my main concern is keeping the temperatures on those old things low and still having those drives working years later. But considering how many I need to get, good pricing would be ideal too. I have not done this before and I understand very little about SSD models, their history, or reliability considerations per brand. I believe they have to be 2.5'' SATA and that's about it. What would you recommend? Edit: is a WD Green SSD a good idea? Them old Playstations use really slow SATA and since my main concern is power usage, this seems like the best option from my limited understanding. Saoshyant fucked around with this message at 13:15 on Apr 22, 2024 |
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2024 12:50
|
|
|
I'm genuinely curious, how come you have four PS3s/PS4s?
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2024 13:52
|
|
|
KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:I'm genuinely curious, how come you have four PS3s/PS4s? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8sjhjFOw4Ok https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PNQcdThO4ZA Do you wanna know how many PS5s I got? There's a whole retro videogames forum in our beautiful community. There's this smilie  . There's three PS3 models. Surely, you get where I'm going with this?  But assuming you are actually curious: one standard PS4 (not slim, not Pro, but the MSGV model which has a gorgeous scarlet design with golden letters), and three PS3s. Of those, it's a superslim as the main one that still goes online, a slim one (my original PS3) which is hacked to hell and back and can't go online, and very recently a Japanese fully backwards compatible fat model that I just got to (in theory) play older games across all Sony generations with the one device. This latter one is extremely superfluous, but FOMO being what it is, I didn't want to pass on it anymore since they are vanishing (too collectable) and/or breaking down (too fragile). But anyhow. What's a good, low power reliable SATA SSD for old computer-like devices? Is it the WD Green? Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2024 14:49
|
|
|
It's pretty anecdotal but I've had good luck with whatever cheap SanDisk, Kingston, or SiliconPower drives were in stock. As long as you don't get a no-name brand it should be fine I would think. Only ever had one fail, it was an SP, and it was one out of an order of 120 that was DOA and replaced immediately no questions asked
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2024 15:42
|
|
|
Gromit posted:You could ask in the tool thread (https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3384038) if you don't get any joy here. I just bought a 3.6V Makita set but that's likely overkill for what you are after, and I haven't used it enough to give you a fair opinion. Thanks. I got a recommendation from a friend for a Fanttik screwdriver and I'm going to give that a shot.
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2024 23:50
|
|
|
Saoshyant posted:I need to buy a bunch of SSD drives for my old PS3s and PS4s consoles (four of those things). Speed is not a concern considering the devices involved don't really take advantage of the faster SSDs. Reliability and power efficiency aren't really concerns anymore. Just get a drive with TLC flash from a name brand like Samsung, Sandisk, etc, and you're good. Known good drives are the Samsung EVO drives, Crucial MX500, Sandisk Ultra, and there are lots of others (like the aforementioned Kingston or Silicon Power) edit: I honestly don't know what the playstations do and don't benefit from when it comes to SATA SSDs, so I'm just sticking to the known good drives for general use. They're all power efficient, you don't have to worry about consumption. And the WD Green probably isn't more efficient than the others anyway. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 06:13 on Apr 23, 2024 |
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2024 06:05
|
|
|
CloFan posted:It's pretty anecdotal but I've had good luck with whatever cheap SanDisk, Kingston, or SiliconPower drives were in stock. As long as you don't get a no-name brand it should be fine I would think. Only ever had one fail, it was an SP, and it was one out of an order of 120 that was DOA and replaced immediately no questions asked Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Reliability and power efficiency aren't really concerns anymore. Just get a drive with TLC flash from a name brand like Samsung, Sandisk, etc, and you're good. Known good drives are the Samsung EVO drives, Crucial MX500, Sandisk Ultra, and there are lots of others (like the aforementioned Kingston or Silicon Power) Much appreciated. I am seeing some good priced Kingston A400 960GB, so I guess I'll pick a couple of those and see how it goes before I buy the rest.
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2024 12:50
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 23, 2024 19:39 |
|
|
There's no see how it goes. The SSD's will work, and the PS3 won't take any real advantage of any decent SSD over another.
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2024 16:59
|
|
