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Shaman Tank Spec posted:I've got two 140mm fans sucking in air from the front, and there's no more room for fans in the front. On the bottom I think it's just the intake vent for the PSU, and no fan slots. I have two fan mounts at the top (one of which is currently in use), and then one exhaust fan at the back. The Phanteks P400S is what I'm working with here. I would probably just try with the 3 fans, two in front one in back.
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Apr 2, 2024 20:54
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LRADIKAL posted:I would probably just try with the 3 fans, two in front one in back. Yeah, simplicity might not be a bad idea. I went out today to get a beQuiet! 140mm fan and an Arctic 120mm to replace the Phanteks 120mm exhaust in the rear, and the original Phanteks 120mm that was still left in the front. Not only do the new fans move more air, they are significantly quieter. I'll monitor the situation and see if I need / want any more fans at the top.
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Apr 3, 2024 11:14
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If you haven't already played around with the fan curves in UEFI, I'd recommend exploring that too. Most boards are smart enough not to default to "full power all the time", but the default curves I've seen tend to start too high and ramp too early (e.g. starting at 50% and ramping up when the processor passes 30-40C, which many chips will always be over). A lot of current case fans still spin at around half of full RPM (and presumably move more than half the full air flow) even when you set PWM as low as 15-20%, so I've taken to curves that resemble this: 20% flat up to 50C 50% at 70C 70% at 80C Max at 90C This makes my system pretty much silent when I'm not playing a game, and when I am the case fans will still always be quieter than CPU/GPU fans.
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Apr 3, 2024 13:40
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I don't hate that example curve. Tuning it depends on how loud your fans are at a given speed and ultimately keeping your CPU from throttling. On the other hand if your system only throttles when running cinebench or prime95, that's ok, they are very unusual loads. Unless your use case is video encoding or software 3D rendering, you'll never see your processor maxed out long enough to throttle in a way that effects performance.
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Apr 3, 2024 19:20
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Whenever I do a new build I always put the PC where it's going to live and then manually go in and identify where the audible fan level is (in PWM%) and where it feels a bit obtrusive. This would be for sets of fans which share the same target parameters, for example case fans that are using an ambient case air sensor as a target the curve is set up with. The other fan group for me currently is just my radiator fans because I'm fully water cooled. I basically set up curves so that it's quick to go to the level that's essentially subaudible to me and then I do a normal curve basically up to 100%, with a steeper angle after the "this is pretty loud" point. This works well for me but if you're a headphone gamer (50/50 for myself) I could see taking that into consideration.
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Apr 3, 2024 19:30
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VelociBacon posted:Whenever I do a new build I always put the PC where it's going to live and then manually go in and identify where the audible fan level is (in PWM%) and where it feels a bit obtrusive. This would be for sets of fans which share the same target parameters, for example case fans that are using an ambient case air sensor as a target the curve is set up with. The other fan group for me currently is just my radiator fans because I'm fully water cooled. I basically set up curves so that it's quick to go to the level that's essentially subaudible to me and then I do a normal curve basically up to 100%, with a steeper angle after the "this is pretty loud" point. This works well for me but if you're a headphone gamer (50/50 for myself) I could see taking that into consideration. I am pretty similar. Except I cap the fan speed at a volume that is just barely audible when there is a quiet scene in a video game or youtube video. This is usually between 50 and 70%. I also have found that I don't get much better cooling going from 60% to 100% across multiple different setups. Maybe 2-5C. Enough to be statistically significant but not enough to be worth the extra volume, imo.
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Apr 3, 2024 19:59
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Yeah, tuning the specific system for the environment it will be in is always the real answer - different models of case and case fans will vary widely in performance, and people have varying levels of noise tolerance. My goal for my desktop is for the system to be quieter at idle than my ceiling fan is on low, since that's usually the functional noise floor of my office. I also agree that 100% is not really a useful setting for case fans in most systems. I generally set it at a point that I don't actually expect to reach unless something has gone wrong with the cooling, so that the fan shrieking will alert me to the problem even if throttling doesn't.
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Apr 3, 2024 21:24
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I work for a small metal fabrication shop and my boss uses Mycloud for most of his CAD file data storage so he can do the modelling work for our contracts at the shop and at home. However he has had serious issues with mycloud being down repeatedly preventing him from actually working. We recently moved to a much bigger shop/office space and given the growth the company has been seeing I was wondering if it might be worth investing in a smallish storage server so he doesn't have to rely on Mycloud. I've built my own gaming PC's over the years so I'm not completely blind to this kind of stuff but if this sounds like a good idea, can someone point me in the direction of something user friendly as its likely I'd be the one who has to set this all up. Edit: Thank you! Ziggy Smalls fucked around with this message at 06:30 on Apr 6, 2024 |
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Apr 6, 2024 05:59
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Ziggy Smalls posted:I work for a small metal fabrication shop and my boss uses Mycloud for most of his CAD file data storage so he can do the modelling work for our contracts at the shop and at home. However he has had serious issues with mycloud being down repeatedly preventing him from actually working. The Home Networking megathread https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3442319 or the NAS/Storage megathread https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2801557 might be good places to ask about that. I know in the former people do stuff along the lines of what you're talking about, I'm less familiar with the latter.
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Apr 6, 2024 06:16
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Hello SHSC. I haven't ventured here before so I apologise if this is the wrong place to ask. One of the 7-year-old mass-storage HDDs in my home computer has suddenly stopped being recognised by windows, and isn't showing up in the bios either. About a week ago the problem HDD's read-write times started taking massively longer than normal. I've tried swapped the sata cables with a healthy drive (an identical model western digital blue which was bought and installed at the same time), which could be read just fine, so it doesn't seem like the motherboard port or the sata cable is at fault. Do I just need to accept that this HDD is dead? or do you wizards know of some way I might be able to magically revive it?. I assume data recovery software isn't going to help if it's a hardware fault and the drive can't be seen by the computer? O-Unit fucked around with this message at 18:34 on Apr 6, 2024 |
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Apr 6, 2024 10:29
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I expect better solutions have been developed, but the classic last ditch recovery effort is to chuck the hard drive in the freezer overnight. If that doesn’t work, slam it into the table/rock or something. Idea being that sometimes the spindle head is the point of failure and a change in size or solid blow can get it unstuck. You’ll want to have recovery software or a robocopy ready to copy the drive ASAP if it works. E: this is the last resort and I would first check if the solder on the SATA plug has failed. I’m sure the thread has some other things to add to the the troubleshooting checklist Fruits of the sea fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Apr 6, 2024 |
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Apr 6, 2024 19:28
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The thing you need to check first is if the drive is getting power. By that I mean that when you plug it in, do you feel it spin up? If it does, that limits what a normal person can do beyond hail Mary stuff like what's been described above. If it doesn't, it could be that the fuse has shorted, and removing it may give you a short window to get your data before it fails worse. Is it making weird noises? Powering up and down over and over? Or is it dead as a doornail?
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Apr 6, 2024 21:05
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Touch the drive when it's plugged in to power and feel for the initialization, if you don't feel it (or hear it sometimes) touch the PCB on the back side, it should feel warm in (generally) 2 places, and should not feel HOT anywhere. Drives this age usually fail because of capacitors blowing (uncommon) or the drives firmware not being able to read it's own parameter data from the first sectors of the drive (more common). That's assuming the bios sees it. If the drive is not read by the BIOS at all you've got work to do electrically, since the firmware should at least be detected and assigned resources even if it doesn't give data. Data recovery can be pricey but it's generally worth it to at least try, many shops including mine do not charge for failed attempts at recovery. Someome with a PC-3000 (data recovery machine) should be able to tell you all this poo poo really quickly.
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Apr 6, 2024 21:47
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Thank you all for the replies. I can hear and feel the drive spinning up, and I don't think it's making any unusual sounds. Unfortunetly I don't have one of those star-headed screwdrivers to take the drive apart to check the soldering on the SATA port. Even if I did, the thought of doing electronics scares the crap out of me - I've never done anything more complex than plugging PC components together like lego! I'll get in touch with the local PC repair shop with what I've learned here, and see if they think attempting data recovery is worth a go (and how much it'd cost). Failing that, when I'm ready to say goodbye to it, I'll try the freezer trick. Do you literally pop the drive in the freezer overnight then plug it in whilst it's still cold?
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Apr 7, 2024 01:48
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Yep.
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Apr 7, 2024 03:15
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Talk about a cold boot!
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Apr 7, 2024 03:56
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O-Unit posted:Thank you all for the replies. I can hear and feel the drive spinning up, and I don't think it's making any unusual sounds. Put it in a ziplock and put it in the freezer, yeah. The idea is the cold will shrink the metal slightly and maybe let the heads work without smashing into the platter, ruining it. Last time I had one of those I used Roadkil's unstoppable copier to try and grab everything off of it with moderate success: https://www.roadkil.net/program.php?ProgramID=29 Always have two copies of anything important. Set up backups and make them automatic!
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Apr 7, 2024 04:21
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Swapping CPU, RAM and motherboard but not the system drive still means an OS reinstall, right?
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Apr 8, 2024 08:39
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Incessant Excess posted:Swapping CPU, RAM and motherboard but not the system drive still means an OS reinstall, right? Not necessarily. It should just work but sometimes it doesn’t. It’s worth a shot at the very least.
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Apr 8, 2024 08:56
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Incessant Excess posted:Swapping CPU, RAM and motherboard but not the system drive still means an OS reinstall, right? Probably not, but sometimes you'll have weird issues you can't pinpoint. Like swapping between an X3D and non-X3D chip creating weird perfomance issues - at least it's something like I recall from a Gamers Nexus video
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Apr 8, 2024 09:43
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Thanks guys, I'm upgrading from a non x3d to an x3d so I'll be keeping an eye out.
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Apr 8, 2024 09:59
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What are the differences between an i5, i7, i9, and Xeon CPUs? Please explain as if I was a big dummy. If I'm not mining Bitcoin, when would a home user need a Xeon? I transcribe a lot of video files.
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Apr 8, 2024 15:33
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i5/i7/i9 is 100% marketing and means nothing (by itself, at least). It's a vague relative performance tiering that only holds within the same generation and power envelope. So, a 15W laptop i7 will be faster than a 15W laptop i5 from the same generation, but it's not going to be faster than a 125W desktop i5 from the same generation. A new quad-core 65W $100 i3 will run rings around a six-core 130W $1000 i7 from 2010, because the cores are a much more efficient design and are running faster to boot. Xeon means "this is a server/workstation chip" and generally implies ECC support, but nothing else by itself. Some Xeons (E3-xxxx, E-xxxx) are up-jumped i5/i7 chips which have all the server features like ECC unlocked and are probably binned for relatively good efficiency. AMD's equivalent to this is the "Ryzen Pro" chips. Note that the motherboard also generally needs to support ECC, so even if a cheap Xeon will work in your desktop board that doesn't mean you get all the features. Others (E5/E7, "Xeon Scalable") are 'real' server platforms which support multiple sockets, more than 2 memory channels per socket, lots of cores, lots of PCIe lanes, and all the other things you generally expect to see on expensive servers. The AMD counterpart for these is the Epyc/Threadripper series. You'd only want a Xeon for home use if you have a workload that really benefits from the high core count, if you have the kind of compelling need for data integrity that would make ECC important to have, or if you need something else about the server platform like lots of memory/PCIe lanes. vvv Glad it helped. The real solution is always to check https://ark.intel.com to know the exact specs of anything you're considering buying. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Apr 8, 2024 |
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Apr 8, 2024 16:04
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Eletriarnation posted:i5/i7 Wow, I understood that. Thank you.
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Apr 8, 2024 16:46
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Incessant Excess posted:Thanks guys, I'm upgrading from a non x3d to an x3d so I'll be keeping an eye out. Here you go, I knew I remembered something about it https://www.techpowerup.com/review/amd-ryzen-7-7800x3d/28.html
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Apr 8, 2024 17:39
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HalloKitty posted:Here you go, I knew I remembered something about it Thank you for providing a source, I'll make sure to reinstall Windows. Hopefully I'll be able to find my activation key and won't have to rebuy, tho I know they are very cheap.
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Apr 8, 2024 18:17
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Incessant Excess posted:Thank you for providing a source, I'll make sure to reinstall Windows. Hopefully I'll be able to find my activation key and won't have to rebuy, tho I know they are very cheap. If you tie your current system to your Microsoft account you can do a system key transfer.
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Apr 8, 2024 18:31
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Just finished a PC build - I have a Corsair 4000D case, with the USB-C connector on the top of the case. I'm using a USB-C to 4-port USB hub (this one specifically: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=14908), and so far it only seems to allow 1 device to work at time - I'm just using my USB dongles for my keyboard and mouse, which, annoyingly have to be separate, and a PS4 controller. I'm guessing it's a power issue, but I didn't have this in my previous build, which had a smaller PSU unit (650 vs 750) and also similar motherboard (both are Gigabyte Aorus). Wondering if there's a way to fix / troubleshoot this.
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Apr 8, 2024 19:49
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Try it in a rear port first to make sure it's not your case jack. Failing that it's gotta be a really bad design or defective if it can't power a dongle or two without extra power. Even the most power hungry usb chips take like half a watt. Does it glow obscenely bright or something lol?
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Apr 9, 2024 03:53
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down1nit posted:Try it in a rear port first to make sure it's not your case jack. This is good advice. You might also try reseating the USB cable that connects to the motherboard.
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Apr 9, 2024 04:21
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down1nit posted:Try it in a rear port first to make sure it's not your case jack. My motherboard only has one USB reversible type-c port to fit it, and when I put it in there the light for it didn't even turn on lol. The rest of the USB ports in the motherboard seem to work fine. I'll try reseating the cable. I randomly decided to flip the cable port and then suddenly it worked??? Wouldn't surprise me if the dongle is on its way out either I guess. Light glows bright blue on it.
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Apr 9, 2024 05:53
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It's defective, or your port is. Your port is probably fine. The CC pins (determine orientation) are probably desoldered, soldered to ground, or a diode on the line blew. Edit: the cc pins also gate power, only opening a transistor/switch when the right conditions are met down1nit fucked around with this message at 08:40 on Apr 9, 2024 |
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Apr 9, 2024 08:35
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Battery question: Are there concerns with using a usb battery bank as a de facto battery for a device that doesn’t actually have a battery to pass the current through? I’m looking for something that can power multiple ESP32 AI thinker boards for a while (say 8 hours). The ESP32s come with a programmer board that gives them a miniUSB port to power them through. And I was looking to just get a bank with 3 or 4 USB ports to plug them into. Are there any issues with current draw or smoothing that may come into play?
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Apr 11, 2024 00:09
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That should be completely fine, assuming you have a quality bank with ample storage and output
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Apr 11, 2024 00:15
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I'm having a hard time figuring out if my RAM is working correctly. Mobo: ROG STRIX B450-F GAMING Old Ram: CMK16GX4M2z3600C18 New Ram: F4-4400C19D-32GTRS I'm starting to think this new ram isn't compatible. CPU-Z is saying its 1330 Mhz. I feel like I enabled what I needed to in the BIOS. https://imgur.com/a/YCyjMVT Im trying to figure out screen shoting bios right now. FalloutGod fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Apr 11, 2024 |
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Apr 11, 2024 00:42
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Trust your feelings. Or maybe take a screenshot of your memory settings in bios and your cpu-z/hwinfo.
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Apr 11, 2024 00:44
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AlternateNu posted:Battery question: Are there concerns with using a usb battery bank as a de facto battery for a device that doesn’t actually have a battery to pass the current through? Should be fine. If you want to both charge the battery bank and use it for power at the same time you will have to look for a model that supports that. I think Adafruit used to stock a specific one for raspberry pi and microcontroller projects that had that ability a while ago but there's probably a fair number of them, I'd just make sure you have some certainty about it first since it's not expected or included behavior for many of them.
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Apr 11, 2024 00:49
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FalloutGod posted:I'm having a hard time figuring out if my RAM is working correctly. Looks like you have it in XMP 2, try running it in XMP 1 and see what you get. You can google the difference and get a lot better explanation than I can type on my phone in bed right now! Remember that what cpu z reports as the speed is going to be different from what you're seeing on the ram packaging because of single vs dual/quad channel. I believe right now your ram is running in dual channel at 2x1333= 2666mhz but someone else please correct me or explain this better.
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Apr 11, 2024 01:16
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After some more digging I guess this ram isn't compatible with the mobo. The spec page on the mobo website says 4400 works but I guess not all 4400 memory is equal? I loving hate how they name computer components. Its such confusing garbage. Don't say you support 4400 and then be like, just kidding, only some 4400. I'd like 32 gigs of ram. I'd like 32 gigs of ram that will work when I plug it in. https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/...B450-F%20GAMING Which ram on that list if I buy it will accomplish my goals? I swear I'm not dumb but theres some secret meta I'm not tapped into with RAM.
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Apr 11, 2024 02:20
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FalloutGod posted:After some more digging I guess this ram isn't compatible with the mobo. The spec page on the mobo website says 4400 works but I guess not all 4400 memory is equal? I loving hate how they name computer components. Its such confusing garbage. Don't say you support 4400 and then be like, just kidding, only some 4400. Check your resource monitor, I think you're getting 32. 16 per stick. Did you try xmp1?
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Apr 11, 2024 02:44
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