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I have a dual monitor system running off a Sapphire Pulse Radeon RX 6600 8GB, up to an AOC 27V2G5 over DisplayPort and another monitor thats working perfectly. Every so often, the AOC turns black. It doesnt switch off, because if I switch it off, the windows that are open collapse back to the main monitor. Its not a cable thing because (1) I have tried different cables, and (2) It works fine for long stretches of time. The power light stays on as well. If I swap the port on the graphics card that its plugged into, then it will work for an extended amount of time, measured in weeks. This happens no matter what port I plug it into, including the port that that other monitor works fine on. It did only start when I put the new gfx card in as well. I was previously just running of the AMD Ryzen 5 5600G ports, and did not have this problem there. Could it just be a monitor on its way out? Or is there something else I can check before splashing out on a new one?
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Feb 18, 2024 07:33
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My m32u monitor does that sometimes and it's common. Try a different cable maybe. If you think it's from static try a fiberoptic HDMI/dp. It could be a problem with the GPU or monitor too unfortunately but usually a GPU issue like that would also have a driver crash notification or artifacting etc...
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Feb 18, 2024 08:01
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Having a dying capacitor or ACD/DAC whatever in the screen seems unlikely, but actually could be the issue, if you're worried about age. Monitors usually die by power supply. Or backlight inverter. I would absolutely reroute the cables and try a new/different one. It may not be the action of you swapping ports, rather the cable itself may act as a source of signal loving. Shielding inside the cable probably works great, but it's not a 100% perfect solution. Its kind of a shot in the dark but maybe adapt it from the dvi into analog. Does the monitor take in analog?
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Feb 18, 2024 09:10
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I have swapped cables around. It happens with the cable that the good monitor is using, and when the good monitor is using the cable in question, it fine. I can probably just yoink another cable from work, so I might try that again but my instincts are saying its not the cable. Both the GXF card and the monitor are HDMI and DP only. It was a while back, but from memory it happened on HDMI as well, but I would need to verify that. Im not really worried about age. I got the monitor a handful of years ago, at the start of covid I think. There is no artifacting or driver crashing either.
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Feb 18, 2024 09:16
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I read DP and my brain inserted DVI for some reason, ignore the analog poo poo, obviously. Here's what I would do: Make sure the cables are seated fully. Yes, again. This sounds like bull, but sometimes your case's metal bulges, and stops the insertion. DP is quite particular sometimes? I had a case once where I had to literally shave away plastic from the bulky rear end cables so they're fully "clicked" in, past the DP lock click even. Get your eyes close up or even take measurements of inserted length (lol) Absolutely try all the combos, work won't miss anything. Additionally, if it happens again, take a really bright flashlight (phone flashlight mayyybe) and shine it close to the screen, see if there is a dark unlit image. Also, I'd Watch to see if the display changes at all when i unplug it's power, sometimes it goes from black, to slightly darker black when it loses power.
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Feb 18, 2024 09:39
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Also try the monitors menu if it happens again. It probably won't appear. If it does...🙁
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Feb 18, 2024 09:48
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Jaded Burnout posted:Alright I'll give it a go, thanks. The manual was quite unclear but they do indeed have an "upstream" USB-C port on the Dell U3223QE, and that sorted my problem out once connected to the PC. So I can now let it auto-KVM between my laptop and my PC. I guess I'll need a USB-C switcher if I want to hook up my other PC too. Also found a couple of extra USB ports on it I didn't know about. Bonus!
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Feb 18, 2024 16:28
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Howdy folks, hopefully quick question for y'all: I recently bought a new (much larger) SSD to store a bunch of media on, and am trying to copy all my media over from my other SSD. But I'm seeing bizarrely low transfer speeds, on the order of 2-3 MB/s steadystate rate. They're both SATAIII drives, so I would have expected it to go quite a bit faster than that. It seems to go much faster if I stuff them into an archive to make it a single file and then copy that file over; the file sizes are basically the same since the media files are already well compressed, but the single file seems to help. Though these compress/extract operations take so long that it hardly seems to actually save time here. Is there anything to try/look into here? Some dumb mistake I could have made while installing them?
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Feb 19, 2024 06:08
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Yes, it's like a lava lamp.
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What ssd is it? Model number etc. There are certainly trash drives out there. Lots of small files take longer kinda by nature of the filesystem and how computers read files. Anti-virus can cause slow copies too. If you want to test it, Crystal Disk's benchmark is fun. It let's you see "theoretical" max speeds.
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Feb 19, 2024 09:51
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Yeah is it external? If so then port and cable are going to matter too. Lots of points of "failure" in the SSD speed chain unfortunately.
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Feb 19, 2024 15:04
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Both internal, both WD Blue drives, would have to go digging for the model number on the old one, but the new one is the 2TB variant of this guy: https://www.westerndigital.com/en-ca/products/internal-drives/wd-blue-sa510-sata-2-5-ssd?sku=WDS200T3B0A I'll give that CrystalDisk a go later. e: old one is this guy: https://www.amazon.ca/Blue-NAND-500GB-SSD-WDS500G2B0A/dp/B073SBZ8YH?th=1 And yeah it definitely seems to be something about copying the files separately. If I stuff them into a .zip and move them I get the 400-500 MB/s I'd expect. PittTheElder fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Feb 19, 2024 |
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Feb 19, 2024 17:23
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Could it have to do something with defender scanning every file?
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Feb 19, 2024 18:31
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If you're using normal Windows file copy from explorer, that is also just very slow and single-threaded. You don't even have to look far into third party software. Robocopy will multi-thread the transfer either by default or by one of the command line flags. Teracopy is definitely easier to use than trying to remember the robocopy syntax, unless you already live and breathe command line.
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Feb 19, 2024 18:32
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Yea I was playing around with teracopy but it didn't seem to be going any faster.
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Feb 19, 2024 18:37
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Sounds like no write buffer. Maybe the drive or port is set to removable/hotswap. Check the drive properties in windows and make sure it is ahci mode in bios with no hotplug/swap/removable on the ports. Indiana_Krom fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Feb 19, 2024 |
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Feb 19, 2024 19:14
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PittTheElder posted:Yea I was playing around with teracopy but it didn't seem to be going any faster. Yeah, you're sending a swimming pool size amount of water into it by sending it individually wrapped packets of water it has to open, dump out, and then ask for another one while it gradually gets hotter. A zip file is a giant hose. I'm calling OSHA
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Feb 20, 2024 02:51
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Hoping for help with an issue I am coming across. I have the following: Dell 7920 Precision Tower > fully updated BIOS Windows 11 USB drive using 23h2 tool creator Startech nvme pci card > https://www.startech.com/en-us/hdd/dual-m2-pcie-card-b#overview-applications Kingston PCIe 4.0 NVME 1TB > https://www.kingston.com/en/ssd/nv2-nvme-pcie-ssd I do NOT have a Dell Flexbay with NVME support I dont think with this precision, so I needed to get a PCIE card. Dell BIOS is set to AHCI (Dont think this matters as I am not using sata drives) I can see the Kingston drive under PciE Devices I have swapped NVME drives, moved the PCIe card to another slot. Moved which drive mount used. Issue > I cannot get the drive to be found by the windows installer. Using command prompt from USB boot device and diskpart, I dont see the device either. My google-fu is failing - nothing I have tried works. Any ideas? e: I was able to boot into legacy mode, diskpart wipe the drive and now I can see it using Secure Boot off > UEFI. I had to use the Intel Virtual RAID on CPU Application to get the nvme to show up. Installing now.... kri kri fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Feb 20, 2024 |
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Feb 20, 2024 14:35
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Is the flex bay still attached? Perhaps it's taking up all the lanes even without anything plugged in to it?
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Feb 20, 2024 16:06
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Had a hard drive failure and needed to move my backups to a single drive. Decided to grab one of those cheap docking stations to make it easier since I could just swap drives in and out and use USB. https://www.microcenter.com/product/486120/Dual_Bay_Docking_Station?storeID=151 All good with a new 18tb WD Red in it. Then, all of a sudden, it would just freeze when trying to copy a file onto the hard drive (I had moved like 10TB onto it over the course of a couple of days). In fact, it would lock my whole computer up and require a hard reset. I was certain the new HDD was bad, but by chance, I hooked it up to an old external HDD case I had, and everything worked perfectly. Could a crappy docking station really mess up a computer like that? Would it be that the drives were too large or just that I might have fried something? Genuinely perplexed since I thought those things were just a way to convert SATA to USB. I wasn't using the cloning feature or anything.
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Feb 21, 2024 09:53
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I've had portable USB drives do wonky behavior like that too, but the very same drive shucked and used as a native SATA drive be fine, so my hunch is questionable SATA-USB interfaces in some of those, even name brand setups.
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Feb 21, 2024 15:37
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I don't know if I should post this in audio quick questions or here or the windows thread or start its own tech support thread, I guess I'll try here first. I have some Sony XM4s, they sound lovely whether they're on my phone, my PC, whatever. The noise cancellation is wild, haven't tried that sort of tech for like 30 years and it's really come along. But, the moment I go to spread some managed democracy and fire up Helldivers 2, the quality drops to absolute utter dog poo poo. Low bit rate boily type stuff with zero range. I even had music playing in the background, sounded great, fired up the game with the music still running, ALL quality goes down hill, kill the game and WHOOP back to the good stuff. Based on some googling, the game may be hooking up the mic, which switches the headphones to bi-directional bluetooth, which I guess is problematic bitrate-wise. So I went into sound settings (Windows 11), found the headphone in the input device list, and hit that "disallow" button, and also picked a different default input device while I was in there, hoping that would stop the game from changing the headset BT mode. But when I fire up the game, same thing, bitrate of sadness. I can't see anything else I can do to further force Windows to pretend that input device doesn't exist, and to not change the BT mode. Any ideas? e: Well, a few minutes after posting that, I came across this reddit post about how to disable hands-free telephony. Pretty deep in the options there, but it seems to have worked. https://www.reddit.com/r/Windows11/comments/12tqbyn/how_to_disable_handsfree_mode_for_bluetooth/ Now I get the full bitrate and range. Some issue still remains: while it sounds great, it's almost like the stream can't keep up and it cuts in and out here and there, like something isn't getting the processor time it needs, is the best way I can describe it. My computer is pretty gd amply specced and this shouldn't be an issue. But it's closer and gives me hope. I doubt it's a BT range issue, since as I had mentioned, music and such goes just fine with zero issues. But I guess that's probably still the most likely suspect. another e: seems like setting the headphones to prioritize a stable connection over sound quality did the trick, so probably I just need better placement on my PC's BT doodad. Calling it problem solved, so I feel a little silly having posted about it, but maybe I just needed the rubber duck. Thanks, either way! Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Feb 25, 2024 |
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Feb 25, 2024 03:03
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Glad you posted your fixes so that others can learn from your experience!
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Feb 25, 2024 13:06
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That is exactly what I had to do to use my XM4s on my PC while gaming. Never cuts out, and sounds great. There is a bit of a delay because of Bluetooth, but it does not bother me. For a mic, I have a wireless modmic I attach to the side of it when I want.
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Feb 26, 2024 02:07
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I wish there was a fix for my Corsair K70 keyboard not always waking up when my PC comes out of sleep, but I think it must be a problem with the hardware itself. Fixes found on Google, that have been suggested for the last 5 years or more, don't work so I think it's a design flaw. Happy to hear otherwise, but changes to the device manager USB settings and power settings don't help. When it fails (1 in 3 wake-ups), I need to unplug and plug it back in for it to be detected.
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Feb 26, 2024 03:47
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Kibner posted:Glad you posted your fixes so that others can learn from your experience! Also, to the goon with the USB keyboard woes: I had a similar set up and issue with a pilot guys home sim setup. His sticks wouldn't connect on wake sometimes. One solution we came across is pcie usb cards, with internal SATA power. I tested it a bunch. Worked a treat. His board was a monster, but it had maybe been too much current or had a lovely asmedia chip Did you try different usb ports too? They often are wired to different controllers.
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Feb 26, 2024 04:27
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I've tried a couple, but happy to do the full tour and see if it helps, thanks.
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Feb 26, 2024 07:56
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Gromit posted:I wish there was a fix for my Corsair K70 keyboard not always waking up when my PC comes out of sleep, but I think it must be a problem with the hardware itself. Fixes found on Google, that have been suggested for the last 5 years or more, don't work so I think it's a design flaw. Happy to hear otherwise, but changes to the device manager USB settings and power settings don't help. When it fails (1 in 3 wake-ups), I need to unplug and plug it back in for it to be detected. I have a K60 and it happens to me occasionally but not often enough to be anything other than a minor annoyance. Except on the rare occasion where my Razr mouse also needs to be unplugged/plugged in at the same time as the keyboard. I just assumed it was a windows 11 “feature”.
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Feb 26, 2024 15:37
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I'm not sure if this is the right place, but thought I'd start here. I'd like to pick up a set of decent, smaller-sized desktop speakers that support multiple inputs easily, whether aux, usb, RCA, etc. I have both my gaming system and work system at my desk, so being able to easily switch would be nice. I don't need audiophile-grade speakers but ideally they'd still sound decent. I noticed a few, like Logitech's Z407 (apparently not good?), Logitech G560 (??, and RGB...), and the SteelSeries Arena 7 (seems ok? lots of RGB though...), but wasn't sure if anyone had any recommendations on what they've seen/used, or if I should go to another thread? I also saw occasional recommendations to just pick up an audio switch off Amazon and use a single input set, but I also found references/reviews where people had issues with the audios witches, so I wasn't sure.
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Mar 8, 2024 16:00
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Canned Sunshine posted:I'm not sure if this is the right place, but thought I'd start here. What’s your budget? How many things do you reasonably want to connect? Of what sort? What’s your space constraint? Aesthetic concerns? Headphones? Subwoofer? Bass?
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Mar 8, 2024 17:18
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Edifier is a worthwhile brand to look at for budget speakers that sound decent.
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Mar 8, 2024 17:39
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Audioengine is my personal favorite in that space
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Mar 8, 2024 17:45
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Canned Sunshine posted:I'm not sure if this is the right place, but thought I'd start here. I think physical audio switches (RCA-RCA) with a turn knob will never wear out or break.
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Mar 8, 2024 17:47
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trilobite terror posted:What’s your budget? Budget is up to $300, prefer to keep it less of course. Inputs - probably just two, but maybe a third. I usually connect to work via a home system, but sometimes when there are issues, I use my work notebook instead, so having audio available would be nice. My desk has some space for speakers behind my main monitor, to face toward me. I don't really care about the aesthetics as long as I can turn on/off/change RGB if it has it. I have a pair of nice headphones now, that'd be nice to plug in at times. I've always usually gotten a subwoofer with past systems but it isn't a necessity if a system sounds as good without it anyway, and I usually have bass set to a more medium setting. Usecase is probably 50% work calls, 30% music, 20% games. Kibner posted:Edifier is a worthwhile brand to look at for budget speakers that sound decent. I was actually looking at this Edifier 2.1 system: https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-Comp...=A23AS8PFN4IRUQ
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Mar 8, 2024 19:24
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btw, if you want a cheap way to make your speakers sound better, angle them so that their sound intersects at a point just behind your head and level with your ears. If you don't have an adjustable shelf or something, some acoustic foam inserts are cheap and work very well: https://www.thefoamfactory.com/acousticfoam/accessories.html
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Mar 8, 2024 19:32
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Canned Sunshine posted:Budget is up to $300, prefer to keep it less of course. The main issue you will find with two powered outputs going into the same set of speakers is that it's common to have ground loops where the two outputs will try to fight for what is the reference ground 0V for themselves. This tends to happen pretty often with inexpensive computer audio stuff and often makes a lot of weird buzzing or hum or other noise. There are ground loop isolators that you can put on the outputs to prevent this but it's worth knowing about before hand. You may also not have this issue if you use the optical input since that's not going to be fighting for a reference voltage.
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Mar 8, 2024 19:44
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Canned Sunshine posted:Budget is up to $300, prefer to keep it less of course. Look at AudioEngine, much nicer than Edifier IMO
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Mar 8, 2024 20:14
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Rexxed posted:The main issue you will find with two powered outputs going into the same set of speakers is that it's common to have ground loops where the two outputs will try to fight for what is the reference ground 0V for themselves. This tends to happen pretty often with inexpensive computer audio stuff and often makes a lot of weird buzzing or hum or other noise. There are ground loop isolators that you can put on the outputs to prevent this but it's worth knowing about before hand. Oh, thanks for reminding me! I had a ground loop isolator on an older, inexpensive set, and that really helped. trilobite terror posted:Look at AudioEngine, much nicer than Edifier IMO I was looking at AudioEngine, but while I see that it takes multiple inputs, I don't see where the A2+ or the A5 has a way to actively choose which input is being used? I might just be missing the obvious though, or maybe it's something where the active signal gets used or such.
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Mar 8, 2024 20:40
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Canned Sunshine posted:Oh, thanks for reminding me! I had a ground loop isolator on an older, inexpensive set, and that really helped. To get switching like that you’d need a receiver. The speakers will just play whatever is going out from any of the sources. Mackie has the CR series which has a lot of connectivity options. Decent sound quality too and for considerably less than Audioengine gear.
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Mar 8, 2024 21:02
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nitsuga posted:To get switching like that you’d need a receiver. The speakers will just play whatever is going out from any of the sources. Mackie CR are really bad, quality-wise. IDK if they’re dramatically better these days than they were a couple of years ago, but the last time somebody asked around about those here nobody had seen a pair last more than like 2-3 years without dying.
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Mar 8, 2024 23:04
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Canned Sunshine posted:I'm not sure if this is the right place, but thought I'd start here. i was in a similar situation. i have a gamer headset, some desktop speakers, and on the same desk a work laptop and gaming pc. i picked up a creative sound blaster gc7. it was like 40% off on sale (which was reasonable for what it does) and i also picked up a ugreen usb switch with a remote button. this let me declutter my desk and easily switch audio, and usb inputs. the alternative was a kvm but i would still need an audio switch of some kind and that looked like it would cost more. i never use the gaming pc when i work so the monitor automatically switching video input was just fine for me. the creative sound blaster gc7 lets you plug in speakers and a headset and switch the output using a c button. you can put a few preassigned functions on the c buttons using the creative software and store them on the device so you can use this with your work pc without having to install the software.
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Mar 10, 2024 19:04
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