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My computer is having some really bizarre USB issues. Basically I have an audio interface, keyboard, mouse, and game controller hooked up, and they constantly disconnect periodically or don't even work at all. I'll check device manager and they'll say something like "device could not start". All I have to do to get them to work again is switch around the ports they're using, but it eventually happens again and its SUPER loving irritating. Weird thing is they work outside of windows, its only when my computer boots that poo poo goes weird. Anyone know what I could do to find out the root cause? cat doter fucked around with this message at 07:54 on Oct 22, 2014 |
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Oct 22, 2014 07:52
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| # ¿ May 5, 2024 06:48 |
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Deanut Pancer posted:Could be power issues. Are they all daisy-chained out of one parent port? Do you have a powered hub? They're all in separate ports on the motherboard. I have 4 USB2.0 ports and 2 USB3.0 ports and usually I have nothing in the 3.0 ports, but that quickly changes when the mouse or audio interface cuts out. I'm basically playing musical chairs with my USB ports.
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Oct 23, 2014 05:23
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Not sure whether or not to post this problem in here or the musician's lounge since it's an audio problem, but basically these headphones I have are kinda hosed up if I try to use them with my audio interface. They're just some $70 sennheiser in ear headphones I picked up from a store while I was out since I'd lost the crappy earbuds that came with my phone (they sound alright though) and they work fine with my phone, PS vita, PS4, etc, but if I try to use them with my audio interface it's as if both the left and right channels try to play back simultaneously in each ear. But, here's the weird part, if I hold down the mic mute button on the headphones, the sound plays back perfectly. I've tested this by playing around with the balance sliders in windows, if I'm holding down the button both stereo channels are separated correctly, but as soon as I let go the stereo channels gently caress up again. Any idea what the problem is? Is it a simple compatibility thing? Should I just tape down the mute button? None of the sound settings in windows seem to help.
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Dec 15, 2014 07:49
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Stux posted:Audio interfaces don't like headphones made for phones etc with in line controls on them in general. I don't know if there is a solution though sorry. I figured that was it. I've got a pair of sennheiser 280 pros but they're uncomfortable so I was hoping to use the in ear headphones occasionally. I've just taped down the button for now.
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Dec 15, 2014 14:30
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Lately I've been getting audio cut outs and buzzing when I plug my TV into my video card's HDMI port. I know it's not the TV because it doesn't do it with any other devices, and I can use the onboard audio and that works fine (but it's a pain in the rear end constantly moving my speaker plug around) so I assume it's the video card's audio itself. Is there a way to test if it's faulty? I don't wanna RMA my card and find out it was something else. It's an AMD R9 290 if that helps.
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May 12, 2015 17:00
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So I wanted to buy a kit of 2133mhz "corsair vengeance pro" (god damnit even RAM has stupid gamery names) for my PC since I've been running into CPU performance issues that seem to be related to my lovely old 1333mhz RAM (only in some games though) and that kit is pretty cheap, but I'm not certain if my board supports it. It's a crappy old low end board, but it says it supports 2200mhz(OC) and I'm not 100% sure what that's supposed to mean. http://www.gigabyte.com.au/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4150#sp That's the board, I mean it SEEMS like I can use that RAM but I just wanted to make sure.
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Apr 23, 2016 23:09
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Alereon posted:That should work, it may or may not be able to run at full speed though. What games are you seeing performance issues with? Make sure the RAM is the bottleneck before you spend money, it may not make as much difference as you expect. Also make sure any RAM you're looking at runs at standard voltage (1.50v)! If you do get new RAM, update to the latest motherboard BIOS before installing it. I just wanna make sure I'm not gonna be stuck at 1600mhz if I buy a 2133 kit though. But yeah, performance wise I'm just not getting numbers that line up with other systems with similar parts. I've got an i5 3570k and a gtx 970, and in dark souls 3 for example I'm getting drops into the low 50s when other systems show a rock solid 60. Based on some of the more recent testing I've seen with RAM speeds from digital foundry and stuff, that has to be the bottleneck.
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Apr 24, 2016 11:33
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So I asked this a few pages back, but basically I wanted to move from my lovely RAM that's only 1333mhz to a 2133mhz kit, but it appears my motherboard doesn't support anything higher than 1600mhz. I bought the kit anyway since I'm thinking about finding an old z77 board so I can overclock my CPU, but I'm a little curious about something, the spec page for my board says it supports up to 2200mhz but with (OC) in brackets, which I assume means that's as high as it goes through boost bclk? Or something? I have no idea. I enabled both XMP profiles anyway and it's still at 1600mhz, and I can't see a way to boost the clock of the memory manually. This is the board here, it's lovely and low end http://www.gigabyte.com.au/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4150#sp I've also made sure I'm on the latest BIOS revision for the board. And here's what the memory looks like installed through CPU-Z   Is there any way to get it up to its proper clock? Or do I just need a new board?
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May 7, 2016 10:59
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| # ¿ May 5, 2024 06:48 |
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Alereon posted:The motherboard manual says the frequency settings appear if XMP is disabled, or are the higher frequencies just not listed in those dropdowns? Honestly if you're not happy with your system performance to the point where you'd consider a new board, I'd just get a new CPU too and jump to Z97+devil's canyon. I originally planned on getting a motherboard that could overclock but had to get this poo poo one initially since the place I bought my stuff from didn't have the board I was after. Plus I don't have a ton of money and going to a new board is the cheapest way to get a performance increase, more memory bandwidth and CPU clock and whatnot. But yeah, I disabled XMP and the clock settings are still just greyed out and won't let me change anything. Same with the memory multiplier. There doesn't appear to be a way to manually change the memory frequency at all. I'm beginning to think the advertised 2200mhz support is just a straight up lie.
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May 8, 2016 03:26
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