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I'm using my 50" LD tv as a monitor for the time, i did this for a long time in the past also and i had no issues. Back then i used one of those wires with the pin connectors in a rectangle (i don't know the name, i'm sorry). These days i'm using a HDMI wire and i'm seeing while the resolution says 1920x1080 it is infact 1280x720. Now i googled and it said this could be a thing with HDMI and computer to TV connects. So i was fine with that and started looking for a new wire, but meanwhile i started playing the new Civ game, the one in space and it is 100% in 1920x1080, so the TV CAN display that resolution with the HDMI wire after all. Anyone got a clue with that limited information? I use a Nvidia GTX 770 and the specific make of the TV i can't remember, sorry, it's a bit old.
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Oct 25, 2014 18:53
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| # ¿ May 6, 2024 02:50 |
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Can anyone suggest a mouse that is close to the Razer Naga (customization side buttons, in depth software with macros and sensitivity options) but isn't a Razer mouse? I've had so much problem with Razer mice the last year and i'm finally done with them. As a side note my issue is that they keep "forgetting" where they are and the mouse stops moving for several seconds no matter the surface i use them on, how i mess with the calibration settings or how much i clean the lens.
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Jun 11, 2015 23:44
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Alereon posted:I'd check out the Mouse Megathread. Cheers, i missed that somehow.
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Jun 12, 2015 00:00
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I'm kinda bad at explaining, but here goes. I have 2x GTX980 in SLI and I use a projector as my computer screen. This projector wants (prefers maybe) a HDMI connection, the other day I got VR googles (Oculus) that also want the HDMI connection. I was hoping to have both things at the same time, so i popped the projector into the HDMI port on the second 980 with the VR in the first 980, but nothing happens then. Is there a way to do this with HDMI cables and have both at the same time? edit: OS is windows 10
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Jan 17, 2017 11:57
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Paul MaudDib posted:I assume your implication here is that you only have one HDMI port per card? Yes! Thank you, I got it to work with the help of your post, I followed your suggestions in order: I tried restarting the computer with the projector plugged into the second SLI card, but nothing happened. Then I tried disabling SLI, but no dice. However while i was there i noticed a option that seemed like it was relevant, "Span displays with Surround". I set SLI to do that and the projector came alive, but in the end I couldn't get it to work right and went back to "Maximize 3D performance". When i did that the projector continues to work. I don't know why, feels like the second GPU needed a reminder of what it could do or something, but now it works at least.
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Jan 17, 2017 16:50
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Is there a thingamajig i can buy to make USB and USB extender lock together? I feel like i can probably solve this very easily with some rubber bands, BUT it's gonna be out in the open and i'm willing to pay a little bit at least for something that looks good.
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Jan 31, 2017 22:12
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Is there a program i can use to throttle my internet down to a speed limit of my own choosing and then easily remove that limit after? Where i live i have two options for internet: almost antiquated ADSL or extremely exploitative 4G wireless net. The 4G net is starting to cost me so much that it's getting to be a real problem, so i'd like to try simulating the ADSL speeds to see if i can live with it.
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Jan 2, 2018 15:07
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EssOEss posted:NetLimiter works great for this. You can even throttle per-app if you want. Thanks!
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Jan 4, 2018 10:56
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I have a CM Storm Trooper case and the top fan has started making a awful sound and is clearly on it's last legs. I have never bought or replaced a fan before, can you guys recommend one that fits the top slot? I have no idea what to look for. Any other pit falls i should be aware of when replacing fans?
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Aug 5, 2018 13:51
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Statutory Ape posted:Per CM website: Thanks! My very limited local retailer happens to have exactly the one you linked there so i'll just get that one. I can't order from amazon cause the US one costs too much in shipping and UK amazon has a ban on exporting most electronics to my country for some reason. It's dumb. Dongattack fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Aug 5, 2018 |
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Aug 5, 2018 20:55
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I'm making a projector/home cinema/couch gaming room atm, to access games/movies/etc in the room i'm using a Steam Link. I'm stuck on finding a sound system that's affordable and makes sense tho, it's been 15+ years since I've bought one and 5.1 systems with a subwoofer and the like seem to have gone out of style and in it's place there are these planks (?) single speakers that are popular now, but the sound sucks pretty hard. I found some 5.1 systems of course, but the prices are utterly ludicrous and they come with BlueRay players and lots of pointless poo poo. I just want a affordable 5.1 system (or something like that) with a USB connection option for the Steam Link and no extra pointless stuff, but all my experience is at least 15 years old and i was a idiot back then too. Anyone got any suggestions? I'm in Norway so the products might have different names than American ones, but just post them and i'll figure it out via googling.
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Sep 20, 2018 20:02
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How can i tell if a game is running poorly because my computer is getting old or because the game is poorly optimized? Is it as simple as looking at the Task Manager performance monitor and if one of the primary resources is maxed out and the game is chugging i need to upgrade that part? But if it's chugging along with nothing maxed out it's the game? I want to get more into upgrading my computer myself and etc instead of paying companies to do it, but i need to learn how to identify stuff like this first.
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Oct 4, 2018 16:08
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There's no point getting a internet connection that's faster than the read/write speed of your SSD correct? They are offering 1gig fibre here soon(tm), but my SSD is at around 550mb. I ordered the 1gig cause "i've had max 5mb download my entire life, time to go ham", but i started thinking that i might be wasting almost half of it and could just go down to the lower package instantly instead of being max decadent for a year.
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Dec 3, 2018 23:22
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Ah, no its 1000 Mbps and my SSD is 550 MB, so i should be good then. drat, that's so easy to confuse. Edit: i see that i actually ordered the 500/500 connection and not 1000, eh its probably more than enough
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Dec 4, 2018 00:01
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Ok so, i have a computer room and a large VR room. In between these rooms i have a tiny hole that i run wires for the Rift & it's sensors through. I wanna play Elite Dangerous in VR again (cause it got a cool update), but this means i have to get a mouse, a keyboard and my HOTAS setup into that room as well. Can i use a "USB Hub" to do this? Run a active USB extender cable through the VR gloryhole, attach it to the USB Hub and then attach keyboard, mouse & HOTAS to that? Would this thing work like that? https://www.tp-link.com/us/products/details/cat-5522_UH700.html I have absolutely zero experience with these things and i'm not 100% sure of what they actually do.
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Dec 11, 2018 20:24
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Geemer posted:Yes, that is literally what they are for. A powered hub like you linked is especially good if you're gonna attach stuff to it that might need a lot of power from USB. Geoj posted:There is a distance limitation to a single-run USB cable. If you need to go further than about 10 feet you'll need an "active" USB cable (basically plugs into a DC power supply and amplifies the signal) to extend that range out to about 150 feet. Ok, cheers both of you, i'm on the right track then.
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Dec 11, 2018 20:52
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Kind of a vague question here, but i don't know a better way to formulate it. I just got fibre installed here today and it came with a router. I can apparently not log into the router proper and change everything i want to with this thing, but rather log into their website and change things they feel i should be allowed access to (and this also of course requires the internet connection to be actually working). This kinda seems like it's becoming the norm in my country at least (Norway) and my question is: Do i have to use the ISP supplied router? If not, is it a giant clusterfuck to try and get a custom router working with the ISP connection?
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May 16, 2019 12:05
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ufarn posted:Some things can get locked down pretty hard for some ISPs. Sometimes, you can't change passwords without losing your connection, which isn't a great design. Oh, this router that they gave me has "bridge mode", i'll look into that, cheers.
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May 16, 2019 16:04
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There were enough options in the end available to me to solve the problems i had, but i surely do resent madly not being allowed full access to my own poo poo. Especially the "you need internet access to access the router" part is really stupid, haha.
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May 16, 2019 20:03
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Yeah, they said quote: "You do not have the ability to log into the home central (lost in translation probably, but aka the router innards) like with a regular router, but you have the ability to change certain settings via "my page" on our site". This is apparently "a thing" here now, most likely to cut down on people that don't know what they are doing going into the settings and nuking everything i assume.
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May 16, 2019 21:48
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What are some common reasons for extreme CPU overheating with 0 load/idle? Yesterday my computer was behaving as normal, didn't get any notifications about overheating at least, but when i turned it on today it pretty much straight away went up to 90+ celcius with the fans working as hard as they could and i started getting warnings about it so i shut it down and let it cool off. It happens every time i turn it on now tho. Nothing is different today, the computer is clean and the temperature in the room is pretty cool. The fans seem to be working fine, i can physically see them operating and everything seems fine in BIOS. Intel Core i7-4790K Prosessor Cooler Master Seidon 120V v2 CPU Cooler ASUS Z97-A, Socket-1150 motherboard Googling generally seems to point towards the thermal paste, i have never done that cause the CPU area scares me, feels like im poking in its brains. So the thermal paste has been left alone since february 2015 when i had it built. Should i remove the CPU cooler and just look at the thermal paste? Can i just see if it needs to be replaced?
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Jul 21, 2019 15:12
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I'm gonna try to fix it myself then since the warranty has gone out anyway and i'll feel a lot better if i do. It looks like the Cooler Master Seidon 120V v2 isn't being sold anywhere in my country anymore, is the Cooler Master MasterLiquid 120 about the equivalent to it? It has the LGA1150 Socket, same dimensions, but not quite the same RPM as the original one. What else is important with CPU coolers?
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Jul 21, 2019 16:20
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skylined! posted:If the pump is dead you likely won’t be able to revive the unit. Oh yeah, by fix it i meant replace the cooler and reapply the thermal paste. Trying to actually mend a piece of broken tech is waaaaay beyond me. Thanks for the help!
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Jul 21, 2019 16:25
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Dongattack posted:Oh yeah, by fix it i meant replace the cooler and reapply the thermal paste. Trying to actually mend a piece of broken tech is waaaaay beyond me. Did this now today once the parts finally arrived, think i did it correctly in the end? Temps are 37 Celsius idling in BIOS and about 41-43C idling in Windows proper. I ran a quick stress test using Intel Extreme Tuning Utility looking for thermal throttling and there was none, but at the very last second of the test i got a warning about 81C. It's worth mentioning we are experiencing a decent heatwave here tho atm. It wasn't that hard like you guys said, but still managed to mess up a bit, hehe. Wasted first syringe of thermal paste by blowing my load too hard and applying way to much, so i cleaned that up. Wasted second syringe of thermal paste by deciding that the old fastening for the CPU cooler thats on the backside of the motherboard looked "pretty much like the new one??" and concluding that i didn't need to put in the new one. But i did since the screws in the old one were wrong for the new cooler and the paste was spread poorly. Third and final syringe i have apparently done correctly it seems (i hope), but i did put the fans in in such a position that the case couldn't be closed anymore so i had to take that part out and and turn it 45 degrees.
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Jul 24, 2019 21:12
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I have a 465GB SSD thats starting to fill up and i wanna swap it out for a 1GB, but i want to keep all the files, the drive letter and basically Raiders of the Lost Ark this poo poo so all programs think that nothing actually happened. I have never done anything like this before and so far my research largely points to using "EaseUS Todo Backup" to clone the SSD. I don't wanna gently caress things up tho so figured and id post and ask if thats the best way to do it?
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Sep 12, 2019 17:20
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The SSD i wanna change isn't my boot drive tho, does that change things?
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Sep 12, 2019 17:54
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| # ¿ May 6, 2024 02:50 |
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Ah, nice nice.
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Sep 12, 2019 21:21
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