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nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Hey, I've got some memory issues, which is causing games to crash and Windows to BSOD. It looks like it might not be the sticks individually but the sticks running together causing memory issues (each stick can hold its own in Memtest86 without error yet), but when I try to run it on both it fails pretty much immediately). What does this mean? Bad CPU, bad motherboard, bad memory, or too hard to tell still? Here's what I'm running:

i5 3570K
Intel DH67CF
Crucial Ballistix 2x4GB DDR3 3200
Gigabyte GTX 970
Crucial MX500 SSD
Thermaltake Smart 750W

Two other things I'll share is that it's failing on Prime95 and HCI Memtest, and that I'm little unsure of the power plug for the motherboard. My PSU has an 8-pin plug, but my motherboard only has a 4-pin port. I think I did it right, but I'm not 100% sure.

If it's a more appropriate venue, I started a thread earlier about it here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3940096&pagenumber=1#lastpost

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nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Rexxed posted:

It's likely the motherboard failing if the ram tests okay individually and in different slots. Finding a replacement will be challenging except for used models on ebay. You might try giving the RAM a little extra voltage (0.1V maybe) in the bios to see if it helps, but I wouldn't think it would be likely. Also are you sure about that RAM speed? DDR3 was usually 1333 or 1600 stock mhz in the 2nd/3rd gen core CPUs. I'm not sure they made DDR3 that goes quite that fast.

Ah, yes. It is 1600 MHz. I guess I’ll weigh my options for just a bit, but it looks like I might still be able to get a motherboard in the same form factor and everything too.

With that though, can anyone confirm that an H61 motherboard should work with my CPU?

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Rolo posted:

How long does a power supply typically last? My buddy had his pc hard shut down last night and while talking to me about it let it slip that his PSU is 7+ years old.

I think the general wisdom is to use it as long as the warranty lasts. Beyond that, you're running it on borrowed time. Really good power supplies come with a 7-10 year warranty, so he's probably right in that range. Hard shutdowns usually are a power problem, so it's where I'd look first too.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Only semi-related, but is an A520 motherboard socially acceptable? I’m thinking of an ITX build with one of these: https://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/A520M-ITXac/index.asp

It seems to have everything I’ll need for a decent savings compared to a B550. I’d probably pair it with a 3600 for what it’s worth.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

I'll try this again here. Anyway, any tips for fixing Bluetooth issues? My Gigabyte B450i will seemingly randomly drop its connection with my keyboard. I’ve tried updating the BIOS, drivers, and moving the antenna as close as I can, but no luck yet.

I've got a fair amount of time to exchange it for something else. My Googling seems to indicate this is somewhat of a common problem with no real remedy. So, any thoughts on whether a B550 is worth it in this case? I'd really like good Wi-Fi and Bluetooth, and I've got a 3600 FWIW. Here's what I am considering if anyone cares to weigh in:
https://www.microcenter.com/product/509734/asrock-b450-fatal1ty-gaming-itx-ac-amd-am4-mini-itx-motherboard
https://www.microcenter.com/product/625308/asrock-b550m-amd-am4-mini-itx-motherboard
https://www.microcenter.com/product/625696/gigabyte-b550i-aorus-pro-ax-amd-am4-mini-itx-motherboard
https://www.microcenter.com/product/625307/asrock-b550-phantom-gaming-amd-am4-mini-itx-motherboard

Otherwise, I could go for an Intel combo 10100/10400 and one of these:
https://www.microcenter.com/product/625036/asus-h470-rog-strix-gaming-intel-lga-1200-mini-itx-motherboard

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

VelociBacon posted:

Is there an external antenna included with the board? Are you using it?

There is, and I am using it. I've even put it on the side of my case nearest the keyboard, and it'll still drop the signal.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

nitsuga posted:

There is, and I am using it. I've even put it on the side of my case nearest the keyboard, and it'll still drop the signal.

Looks like it might be CSGO. I swear it happened in Half-Life as well, but I was able to play TF2 for about an hour without an issue. Hmm.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

interrodactyl posted:

This is a little off the beaten path for usual questions in this thread, but do people have recommendations for a USB hub and a laptop stand? I'm fixing up my home office setup and need something to hook up my macbook to my monitors / kb / mouse.

I love my Rain Design stand (https://www.raindesigninc.com/mstand.html). They're probably more than you could spend elsewhere, but the colors are a spot-on match if you're into that sort of thing. The dock is going to depend on what kind of MacBook you're hooking up and what your overall goal is.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

That seems pretty low-spec for $1400 AUD, and the Lenovo is going to be a bit hard to expand as far as the GPU goes. If it were my money, I'd seriously consider building your own. The kicker here is the i3 is a faster chip than the 7700. Intel's had some serious pressure applied to them lately, so while they lag behind AMD, they've got some good offerings, especially with AMD in short supply everywhere. Something like this would easily handle the workload you're thinking of:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i3-10100F 3.6 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($129.00 @ PC Byte)
Motherboard: MSI B460M-A PRO Micro ATX LGA1200 Motherboard ($106.70 @ JW Computers)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-2666 CL16 Memory ($59.00 @ Umart)
Storage: Crucial MX500 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($84.00 @ Amazon Australia)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1650 SUPER 4 GB TUF GAMING OC Video Card ($239.00 @ Centre Com)
Case: Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($66.56 @ Amazon Australia)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12III 500 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($70.40 @ Newegg Australia)
Total: $754.66
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-12-12 09:38 AEDT+1100

We've got a whole PC building thread though, and someone there is bound to know the Australian market better than I do.

nitsuga fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Dec 11, 2020

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

RestingB1tchFace posted:

Anyone have a recommendation for a feed style scanner? Don't want to spend a whole lot. Just something that will do a decent job with pictures and other documents.

I don’t know of any cheap ones that can do photos as well as documents. My dad uses something like this for work, and he’s never complained about it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KQZWPYN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_L.P8FbV5CF4ME

Maybe that and a traditional scanner for your photos?

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

lost in postation posted:

Playing games that came out in the past 2 years on high/ultra at 1080p, not remotely a priority considering my backlog and certainly not one I'd pay more than 200-250 eurobucks for.

Yeah, for now I’d just chill. There’s really no $200 GPU worth getting right now. You’re better off working on your backlog. I’ve been having a good time doing the same.

Edit: If you still have the upgrade itch, I’d wait for the 3060 MarcusSA mentioned below. There are some cards you might find used too, but it might be hard to beat the value proposition of the upcoming 3060, even if it’ll go for more like $400.

nitsuga fucked around with this message at 14:46 on Jan 14, 2021

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

MarcusSA posted:

Nvidia announced a 3060 for $329 which would be the best upgrade IMO.

Yeah, even though it’d go over their budget, an RX 580 really is a decent card and that probably is where a really good upgrade begins.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

phosdex posted:

Weird question, I thought I remember someone posted about a mini vacuum that was good for cleaning keyboards? I get all these dirty keyboards cycled in for work and would like to clean them. Amazon seems full of rebranded junk and there's no real way to know if the comments are to be believed.

I’d get a MetroVac if work is going to foot the bill: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/599911-REG/METRO_DataVac_ED_500_DataVac_Electric_Duster_Model.html

They’re not that much more than the clones I don’t think, but I put a couple through hell at my first IT job, and they just kept going. Curious if there are any decent clones though for my own computer care purposes.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Do you even need to replace the disk? If it’s a 5400RPM it’d make sense, but I’d think the Windows install media would be able to erase it.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

gradenko_2000 posted:

I've been getting some great advice in the GPU thread on more case fans for my PC and I wanna pull the trigger, but my question is, do the fans come with their own screws or will I have to look for screws that came with the case?

Noctuas do, and IMO, they’re worth the money. I’m not sure that the Arctic’s the folks in the GPU thread have also recommended. I’ll bet your temps will be better with even just one exhaust fan in addition to your existing intake one. Which case do you have anyway?

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007


Cool. Yeah, so if you wanted to get as much airflow as possible, I'd put two 140mm fans up front and move the 120mm to the back. You could also replace the included 120mm, but I don't see the harm in trying out this setup and seeing if noise levels and temperatures meet your needs first. If FCKGW's experience hold true, you shouldn't need to worry about screws.

As far as fans go, I'd recommend these:

https://smile.amazon.com/ARCTIC-P14-PWM-PST-Pressure-optimised-dp-B07GZJY4TM/dp/B07GZJY4TM/ref=dp_ob_title_ce
https://smile.amazon.com/JBtek-Blac...ctronics&sr=1-3 (Splitters for the Arctics if needed)

or

https://smile.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-Premium-Cooling/dp/B00CP6QLY6/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=noctua+a14&qid=1617307736&sr=8-3 (Which include a splitter)

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Artelier posted:

So I just had a weird crash on my 3+ year old desktop, followed by being unable to boot. Is there some sort of "download to USB" diagnostic tool I could get to try and figure out what's wrong with it? Not sure if I can get it to the shop.

If you have access to another PC, I’d try making a Windows 10 USB installer and then using WinRE to try fixing the startup issue.

Windows 10 Installation Media: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/create-installation-media-for-windows-99a58364-8c02-206f-aa6f-40c3b507420d
WinRE: https://www.computerhope.com/jargon/w/windows-recovery-environment.htm or https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/troubleshoot/windows-server/performance/use-winre-to-troubleshoot-startup-issue

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Happy_Misanthrope posted:

How is this Seasonic Prime GX-750 for a I5-12400 + GTX 3060 system? Not questioning it's ability to deliver enough power, just wondering if anyone has any experience with it in terms of noise/reliability.

I didn't do enough research and got a CM Masterwatt 650 for my new rig, which apparently has a common problem where there's an audible 'thunk' whenever the fan kicks on if the PSU is facing fan-down (kind of uh, a common config). Driving me nuts so looking to replace it in the return window.

I can't speak to that PSU specifically, but Seasonic is a notable player in the field. I've got a Focus GX-650 powering a 3600 and 3060Ti in an ITX case, and I can't say I've ever noticed noise from that. The warranty is hard to beat too, so it might seem indulgent, but it's definitely one component I see no good reason not to splurge a little bit on. That said, a Focus series PSU might be a decent way to save a few bucks since the one you've linked is out of stock.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Yes, different adapters have different chips and with that varying speed capabilities. There are some pretty good options out there, so it may be a matter of buying something else. That said, do you know what kind of adapter you have now?

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Kin posted:

Based on when I last ordered one, I'm pretty sure it's this:

Foktech Wifi Dongle, AC600... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XZ5B5G9

Edit: that says it can do up to 433.

If the USB 2.0 port is a problem, I'm pretty sure there's an ethernet port on the back of the machine.

Is there such a thing as a USB 3.0 to ethernet cable? Like, I could stick the dongle onto that cable and then plug it into the ethernet port. And if that was possible, would it likely be faster?
Throughput speeds are always best case scenarios. I’m not surprised that your speeds are coming up short of the advertised maximum.

That said, yes there are USB to Ethernet adapters, and they will likely outperform any USB wireless adapter. USB 2.0 vs, 3.0 shouldn’t matter, but you could try changing which port the adapter is plugged into. I’d be surprised if it helped much though. If you can run a wire, try something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasi...ps%2C217&sr=8-4

If you want to try a different wireless adapter, maybe this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Linksys-WU...s%2C179&sr=8-20

nitsuga fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Jul 2, 2022

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

I'd say it's worth trying a different wireless adapter. Everything is some sort of engineering compromise, and in that case you're prioritizing size over all else. Even something nominally bigger like the one I linked would be worth trying. I like TP-Link for home networking stuff generally, and both the Archer T4U and Archer T3U look promising.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Stalizard posted:

I've built computers before, I could probably still build a PC without too much trouble if I had a complete parts list. I already have everything I need as far as monitors/mice/keyboards.

Here's an example of an Optiplex I was looking at. As far as memory and processing power it looks plenty adequate for what I need to do over the next few years, but that processor isn't compatible with Windows 11 and I can't find anything similar with a processor that is.

You could get a nicer PC building it yourself, and it’s likely you’ll want to upgrade an Optiplex a bit too (SSD, please), so don’t be alarmed when you see the total:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600G 3.9 GHz 6-Core Processor ($166.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI B550M PRO-VDH WIFI Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($68.98 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($67.98 @ Amazon)
Case: Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($69.98 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA GA 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $543.91
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-07-10 10:41 EDT-0400

You could take this part list over to the building thread and get advice on how to lower the cost without a dramatic effect on performance. 8GB of memory might be one way, but there are likely others. I don’t think you can do a $400 build easily, but $500 would be doable.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

VelociBacon posted:

Not noticeable IMO. Probably depends on the game though.

As well as the motherboard, as I think Intel only offered higher memory speeds on Z chipsets that generation. But yes, unlikely to yield a noticeable performance increase for gaming on speed alone.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

CoolCab posted:

no, i'm currently plugged into the pink hole. i don't usually use front panel audio

You may want to try your front panel port. I would be curious how they sound with your phone or similar too. If you don’t have any luck a USB audio interface or headphone amp would be the next thing.

Parts Express has a few cheaper options: https://www.parts-express.com/home-a-v/headphones-accessories/headphone-amplifiers

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Have you tried a firmware update? I would start there if not.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Depending on your display, you may need to set the refresh rate in the Nvidia Control Panel too: https://www.nvidia.com/content/Control-Panel-Help/vLatest/en-us/mergedProjects/nvdsp/To_select_a_screen_refresh_rate.htm

Sorry, poster with the weird transfer speeds. That one I can’t explain.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

I’d be curious about a different power cord and circuit if possible. Depending on your setup, the CPU/motherboard swap might be easier to start with.

Also, when did you get a successful run of Memtest? Your post indicated that it failed to start most recently. I think someone stated otherwise here, but a failed memory module isn’t that uncommon. That’d be another component I’d be suspicious of.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Chilled Milk posted:

KVM for GSync display...
I don't think there are any out there with support for >60hz refresh rates. At least not without really spending big. That said, you might look into setting up a USB switch like you suggested and configuring something like display-switch or ControlMyMonitor. I have no experience with either, but both came up in the Monitor and Display thread just recently.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Boo! I wonder if you could use the connect/disconnect logic to get something acceptable. Otherwise, two buttons it is I think.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

I have no idea if it’ll do what you’re thinking, but it could be worth a try. Get it on Amazon or somewhere with a decent return policy, I guess. I read a bit, but it’s a little unclear to me how you’d end up with switchable input to your monitor with the add-in card. I may be missing something though.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

gradenko_2000 posted:

I dropped my Switch. There's a big ol crack running the length of the screen protector, or at least I hope just the screen protector and not the screen itself, but the thing still works fine as far as I can tell

is it possible/intended for the screen protector to be removed, and replaced with a new one?

It looks like it is a separate part, and you can buy them too: https://www.ifixit.com/products/nintendo-switch-digitizer-front-panel

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Ah, I see. In that case, it’s almost definitely fine to remove and replace it.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Xenoborg posted:

I have a computer that for several years boots to windows fine, but has a blank screen during POST. It’s not been an issue until recently when I wanted to change something in the bios, but I either don’t know the bios key or it’s not working. Any ideas?

BIOS might be starting with onboard video. Try one of your motherboard’s video ports.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

You might be surprised with how a mouse works with your setup. I've used one on the couch before even without a mousepad. More on point though maybe the Lenovo Trackpoint II: https://a.co/d/5n7dULa

Get better, BTW. Back pain and all that is no fun at all.

nitsuga fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Jan 10, 2023

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Leviton is a well known entity, so I’d be willing to give them a try. Kind of a neat thing really.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Lian Li Odyssey X too. Or maybe alternatively one of the open air “cases” out there.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

^ And the USB-C cable for your case if you go that route. Provided your motherboard has the pins for that.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

650W is the minimum recommended for a 3070, so you certainly could be asking too much of it. Sudden shutdowns are not uncommonly caused by the power supply. Get a Corsair RM750x or similar and see what happens.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

If you’ve got a USB-C port the Apple adapter would be a cheap enough thing to try. A Behringer USB audio interface would be a fine option if you don’t (Link). I would recommend verifying the headphones work with another source though.

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nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Qubee posted:

What ended up being the case for this? I took a vacation right after your post and just got back. I might be going to America in Mid-October so I was considering grabbing a card whilst I'm there, as it appears it's cheapest in the States compared to Europe.

I’d check the GPU thread, but they both look pretty decent. 7800XT does offer a nice boost in performance for not much more money. I’d be careful about buying a GPU overseas, but that’s more of a customs query that I can’t weigh in on with any real advice.

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