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Wiimotes: If you're using Windows, aaaaahahahah - for Mac or Linux it might actually not destroy your sanity, despite Nintendo's best efforts (they don't like people using their Nintendo accessories with not-Nintendo hardware much). For PS3 controllers yeah you're probably fine as long as your Bluetooth adapter isn't garbage (although this is kind of a tall order). You may just want to blow five bucks on a 5m Mini-USB cable for the DualShock 3; then just use Scarlet.Crush's XInput Wrapper or ... probably works natively in OS X or Linux. Or better yet a DualShock 4, Micro-USB cable and appropriate driver. If you still want to go ahead with the Bluetooth you're probably best off with the Wiimote Adapter from the link and ... do you have Wi-Fi? Because the Intel 7260 (now in desktop kits too!) is the best drat Wi-Fi card on the planet and it supports both Wireless-AC and Bluetooth 4.0 - but be warned OS X has no idea what to do with it (though if you have a Mac you should already have Wi-Fi and Bluetooth so just use those). dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Oct 7, 2014 |
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Oct 7, 2014 18:08
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Hard to go wrong with HWiNFO64.
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Oct 16, 2014 01:56
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Windows GPT-partitioned drives just do that. Mac and Linux GPT-partitioned drives do something similar.
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Dec 1, 2014 23:59
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Reflect can expand it for you. If you don't choose that, Windows Disk Management can expand it for you.
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Dec 8, 2014 03:45
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Uh, maybe? It's not the official one, and that means it's likely to be flake-rear end even under ideal conditions. I don't think anyone but Microsoft managed to make a wireless 360 controller adapter work right most of the time.
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Dec 24, 2014 21:45
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CrystalDiskInfo, actually. You want portable, not the animes, and the 64-bit addon.Blackula69 posted:I have an old WD Green hard drive that stopped working. It shows up in Disk Management but can't initialize, and reports its size as 0 gb. Western Digital's maintenance app says it's got bad sectors but fails immediately when it tries to fix them. Is it boned? Can't even see there's room for partitions? Unless every other drive on the controller (Device Manager > View / devices by connection) is similarly afflicted or the drive works on another controller (USB enclosures count double for this, because if the drive's gone rampant, you're only out an enclosure), it's toast. For a replacement, WD Reds/other brands NAS-focused 5400s don't sacrifice everything including reliability and doing what the OS tells it to power-management-wise for the sake of Alternately: WD Blues/standard 7200s might be cheaper below 2 TB; be vigilant. Anything more than like ten bucks above Reds in a size class probably isn't worth it, since there are very few things - games, media, anything - that benefit from a 7200 over a 5400 that don't further benefit from being on an SSD and if you had one you'd know it. WD Blacks/  7200s and anything with faster platters aren't worth it.WD Purples/Surveillance/TV drives are meant for things where you can afford to lose data; your computer is not one of those things. SSHDs might if you focus on one Steam game at a time or something. Or you can just tell platters where to stick it and go all SSD/  . Your call.In the meantime, hug your backups and keep them safe. If you don't have backups of the Green drive I hope it's just stuff you can redownload or reproduce because recovery costs for anything worth paying for (that is, a service that does what photo sifters, Recuva and maybe letting a Linux live image check it out can't) will cost approximately space dollars. dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Jan 2, 2015 |
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Jan 2, 2015 20:32
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Yeah, I've seen that, and I get the spirit of it, but it doesn't control for duty cycle*/RMAs/customers who gave up; it's just raw 'return to retailer/product failure' for invoices aged 6-12 months (at least it doesn't count DOAs). Had it, I'd gladly pull the reliability bit out. On the other hand, "not obeying computer's power management directives" is enough reason to not have it in my system. And not all drives can have their idle times set like WDs. Although that might be a subtle misconfiguration on my part that had the file system waiting on that one drive. It hasn't happened in a while, though. *Big assumption: I'm guessing anyone buying a discrete hard drive from a computer-hardware-specific vendor knows what they're doing with it. dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 20:56 on Jan 2, 2015 |
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Jan 2, 2015 20:53
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Den of Lies posted:I've probably had the video card for around a year. I've always had what I would consider sub-par performance from it though. I just assumed that it was my older processor bottlenecking it, which was a Phenom II X4 965. I just got the FX 8350 this weekend, which I hoped would have boosted my gaming performance over the processor I did have.. Oog. Yeah, AMD's pace of improvement is so slow that - at least in the AMD domain - that 965, on an architecture from 2008 (seven years ago, an Age in computer terms) is still relevant. Your processor, at maximum overclock, goes toe to toe with last year's Intel i3, which takes a third of the mains draw (closer to half if you leave everything stock, but Intel's been better at race-to-idle for a while now). I mean, I get your hope for a drop-in replacement, but there really isn't one, because depending on your proximity to Microcenter you could have literally gotten a sub-Core dual-core Intel G3258 with monstrous overclocking potential and a decent overclocking board for less [EDIT] that would still overpower either of those, and occasionally both of them. dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Feb 16, 2015 |
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Feb 16, 2015 22:19
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Geoj posted:Information on this seems to be sketchy but from what I can find via a casual google search it sounds like the actual limitation with Win7 is you can't have a boot volume >2 TB, but a volume for storage can be any size up to 256 PB. I'm having trouble imagining how this discussion could have led here even in error. 1) I sincerely hope you mean that the RAID mirror is on the same USB terminal, because USB isn't really designed to synchronize devices on separate terminals the way RAID 1 would need it to. 2)  RAID IS NOT BACKUP. NAS + a detachable hard drive for the NAS to mirror itself is probably backup. (You won't be so much running from NAS as caching things from NAS to run them locally.) NAS + a local library drive would also probably be backup, but good luck fitting that in a laptop. You'll also need something to keep things in sync no matter the method.3) The 2TB limit isn't for system volumes, it's for MBR devices. GPT devices couldn't give less of a poo poo no matter their role, but they do require a UEFI bootpath, which requires a 64-bit version of Windows. You can get there just fine with a Windows 7 install DVD but you'll have to be able to point the firmware at it. You need to Do Stuff (easiest with Rufus) to make it work from an SD card or flash drive or whatever. 4) You're not going to be booting off of your library drive/home server/whatever you end up doing, so. 5) You aren't going to hit the 2TB limit on anything worth booting off of (read: SSDs) right now. This will probably change by this time next year, but it'll cost for a few years after it does. 6) At laptop sizes you aren't going to hit the 2TB limit on anything that fits right now. dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Feb 17, 2015 |
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Feb 17, 2015 18:21
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Geoj posted:Please explain what happens in a RAID 1 array when one disk fails and the other does not. Does the mirrored data on the surviving drive cease to exist? That is the only circumstance where RAID mirroring preserves data. If another part of the computer (even if it's NAS it's still a computer, just not the one you're running on) fails in a way that corrupts writes to your drive array, it'll hit both sides of the mirror equally. Also spectacular power supply failures won't necessarily respectfully only pop one drive. And corruption is harder to determine than  is.Of course, if it's something that he can retrieve at will then who cares, keep one copy and let your delivery service be your backup. Backups of stuff you can't really replace are a good idea, but if it's just a local cache of your iTunes or Steam library or whatever you only need one local copy. Unless your Internet bandwidth is extremely American. dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 18:38 on Feb 17, 2015 |
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Feb 17, 2015 18:29
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A quick google says that some USB device is breaking things. Same diagnostic principle applies; just apply it to your USB stuff instead.
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Feb 27, 2015 22:39
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That depends on where they are. Stuff that isn't installed can be dragged over. Stuff that IS installed and isn't delivered via Steam or something probably has to be installed all over again - Steam stuff can be put where Steam expects it to be and you reinstall and it just re-verifies it. Without knowing the old program manifest we don't know where you have to look for your stuff but it'll be pretty much all over your user directory on the old hard drive. AppData/Roaming, AppData/Local, Documents, Saved Games, Music, Pictures, Videos, possibly files and folders directly in the user directory, hell some Steam games save to their own working directory because gently caress standards and best practices I guess. If you're wondering why we say Don't Install Steam in Program Files, this is why. Given that many games actually install in C:\Games of their own volition, it's probably not a bad idea to install Steam in C:\Games\Steam, especially if you intend to mod anything ever. It's kinda disappointing that software still works like that, although publishers are pretty brazen about wanting modding to die and don't care about the quality of the work they publish so whatever. Also Steam expects libraries outside its own working directory to be empty when it makes them, so make sure any games that you can't/won't put on the SSD are somewhere else when making the external library on the old hard drive, and put 'em where they belong afterward. Duke Chin posted:So outside of my fist shaking that my hardrive is probably "lost" to some lovely delivery driver now I guess my short question is, again, why the gently caress does newegg use these assholes? I don't think Ontrac is as monolithic as it looks, and most of Newegg's experience is probably with the California version and they're pretty reliable here. Essentially Newegg's fallen victim to the composition fallacy. dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Apr 15, 2015 |
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Apr 15, 2015 01:00
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khy posted:The only problem I have with wireless AC is only a single device in my entire house supports it (My phone). My Chromebook, PS4, etc only support b/g/n. You can probably find a router that can run multiple access points on different standards and frequencies (you'll still want to run them as exclusively WPA2+AES). This is an old DD-WRT feature, so anything with its roots there (like current Asus devices) merits special attention. This will probably require research but the Home Networking thread's a good place to start. dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 18:01 on May 12, 2015 |
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May 12, 2015 17:58
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glickeroo posted:It was a 3rd party which I now see has been getting negative feedback for shipping drives in paper envelopes. Yeah, as a rule if you order from Amazon (or any other place with a "Marketplace") and you order from anyone other than Amazon/[place] itself you have made a mistake or three. The only exception I can think of is companies like Monoprice, who have their own storefront on the Amazon Marketplace, and I'd still only do it for the things they manufacture - and I'd still strongly consider their actual site instead if they sell there.
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Jun 2, 2015 14:27
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It looks like it's mostly not returning SMART data at all. Eep.
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Jul 14, 2015 15:14
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Prorat posted:Does this mean my ivybridge mobo is out of date? You can probably find a USB 3.0 internal cable to 2.0 header adapter places. You probably already guessed you're only going to be able to use it as 2.0 ports.
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Jul 16, 2015 06:47
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teagone posted:Why did you get an unlocked CPU if you're not going to overclock it? It turbos to 4.4 GHz out of box. Why do people keep asking this question?
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Aug 9, 2015 06:36
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Tapedump posted:A desire to call other people on supposed "mistakes." Eh, maybe. Could just be faulty induction (K -> unlocked -> OC). It actually got a line in the OP of the Build thread, but I guess this thread would have to be remade a bit to get a proper FAQ going (and 4790Ks probably wouldn't fit in an FAQ). The bizarre thing is it outdoes Skylake at below-space-program prices unless you need the new IGP. And really no one's going to care about the IGP until it renders stuff like the bus-powered 750 Ti obsolete.
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Aug 9, 2015 08:23
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regular mike posted:Are there any free hardware monitors that will allow me to check temperature and control fan speed without trying to sneak a bunch of bloatware onto my system? The last thing I want to do with my new, fresh-smelling PC is miss a checkbox and end up with a bunch of crap appearing in my system tray. HWiNFO64 is pretty much the apex monitor, but it has almost no control facility. Then again, you should be controlling your fans in firmware.
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Aug 17, 2015 22:30
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Ambaire posted:I have a theorectical question regarding this 2TB WD drive. Suppose I buy one, put it through a few full write/full format cycles to verify that it's not DOA then backup everything I hold dear to it and put it in a bank safety deposit box. I wait say 5 years then come back and pull it out and hook it up to my computer. What's the chance of data corruption, drive failure and the like? Or would it most probably still work just fine? First off: What even are you doing that you need to store eighteen hundred gigabytes of data in a bank vault. Second: There are two major strategies for long-term storage. 1) Put it in stone. You laugh, but this is the entire premise of M-Disc. Writers and discs cost a bit, but most standard readers work and you don't have to worry about longevity. 2) Put it freaking everywhere. Probably not cost-effective unless you're Google or something (who do exactly this).
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Oct 10, 2015 23:21
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Grapeshot posted:Is the system actually shutting down or just hibernating when you select shut down like Windows 10 does by default? Try disabling Hybrid Shutdown in the power management settings, you'll have to search for how to do that because I remember the option is very well hidden. Also your boot times will increase a lot. It's called Fast Startup and it's been in Power Options under "Choose what the power buttons do" since 8.
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Mar 16, 2016 22:14
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Ragingsheep posted:My 200gb microSD shows up under Windows Disk Management with 16mb of unallocated space at the front of the drive. Can I do anything to get this space back? It's a side effect of how data is managed below the filesystem level on SD media; taking it back would do horrors for the card's performance. Also you are now on the record as being worried about one percent of one percent of the rated space.
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Apr 2, 2016 03:54
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