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JRay88 posted:When I checked it was AHCI. I switched it to IDE and now everything works fine... What are the differences between the two and why would this have changed? AHCI and IDE are two different modes of communication between the hard drive and the SATA controller on your motherboard. IDE is the older standard, AHCI the newer. AHCI supports newer features (for instance, native command queueing). Windows was failing to load because, currently, its AHCI driver is disabled. Presumably, Windows was installed with the controller set to IDE mode, so it never bothered to enable it. If I had to guess as to why, the BIOS upgrade process you performed probably dumped all the saved BIOS configuration, and AHCI may be the new default mode for the SATA controller.
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Oct 27, 2014 01:14
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Is it possible for bad RAM to cause a machine to hang for about thirty seconds to a minute and then power off, or does that sound more like PSU/CPU/mobo?
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Apr 19, 2015 13:35
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Instant Grat posted:There's an easy way to figure out if your RAM is failing - MemTest86+. Already run this twice - once after I installed the new RAM, and once earlier today. No errors reported on either pass. My machine did bluescreen once after I installed the new RAM - I figured it was my lovely old Gigabyte AMD board not being able to handle 1600MHz, and it seemed perfectly stable after I dropped it down to 1333MHz. Seems to be stable for the moment - I disabled all the power-saving C-state stuff on my CPU, and also forced my RAM timings back to 11-11-11-28 from 9-9-9-24, which only seem to be supported under XMP. Earl of Lavender fucked around with this message at 14:02 on Apr 19, 2015 |
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Apr 19, 2015 13:56
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everythingWasBees posted:So when playing some games my computer restarts suddenly, as if due to a power surge. I've eliminated overheating by monitoring the temperatures of the parts, but is there any way for sure to make sure it's the power supply and not something else? Everything's under warranty, so as long as I can figure out what's faulty I can get a replacement. The times that I've seen this, it was because the system was trying to pull more power than the power supply could handle. What's your graphics card, and what brand and model is your power supply?
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May 2, 2015 03:18
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teagone posted:Good to know, thanks! Weird thing is, before I ran CHKDSK /R I wasn't able to pull anything off the drive; file transfers would start, hover around 30-50MB/s, and then consistently drop to 0MB/s at around 30% in and just freeze there, not starting up again. After I ran CHKDSK /R I was able to pull everything off just fine, about 700GB of data, at a sustained 115-120MB/s transfer rate. I'd imagine the low speed before running 'chkdsk /r' would be due to Windows running into the bad sectors as it was copying (and would probably also explain the transfer stopping, as it ground to a halt trying to read faulty sectors.) After running chkdsk, all references to bad sectors in the filesystem would have been altered to point to clean ones. Presumably, this will mean that some of the files you copied off have been silently damaged: quote:It's important to realize that you have already lost data if clusters are relocated, as the data contained in them is unrecoverable. As far as I know, Alereon is right about 'chkdsk /r' on a failing drive; a drive with bad sectors is a tenuous house of cards, and it isn't helpful to have chkdsk go through and prod every sector one by one to see how they're doing. Sure, you can enable Windows to read the files again by cutting out references to bad sectors, but you can also image the drive (while having your imaging program ignore bad sectors), as it describes in the last section of that article. This achieves the same end of saving as much data as possible, while minimising the amount of interaction your machine has with the failing drive. Also, pretend I said something cautionary about backups or whatever.
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Jul 16, 2015 13:41
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God drat, the thermal paste that comes pre-attached to stock Intel CPU coolers is garbage. Now idling at 35°C, down from 85°C, after I replaced it.
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Aug 10, 2015 13:24
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Alereon posted:While the paste isn't great, that was definitely due to poor mounting, not the thermal paste itself. I've turned in my badge and screwdrivers at the front desk.
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Aug 10, 2015 13:43
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Alereon posted:To be fair it can be difficult to mount the stock Intel HSF correctly, it requires more force than you'd expect to engage correctly, especially using the stock phase-change TIM. I think it was easier back when the heatsinks were bigger. My motherboard makes weird clacking noises when I push down on the four supports of the heatsink  I'd assumed, once you'd clicked down all four of the legs and turned them in the direction of the arrow symbol, that stock cooler would be as close to the CPU as possible. I take it, then, there's more to the process?
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Aug 10, 2015 14:26
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Dead Goon posted:I'm pretty sure you turn the legs in the direction of the arrows only when you want to remove the heatsink. I'm almost certain the documentation that comes with the CPU instructs you to turn the legs in the direction of the arrow to lock them in place when they've been clicked down, and to turn them back in order to unlock them. Edit: This doesn't seem to be the case 
Earl of Lavender fucked around with this message at 14:42 on Aug 10, 2015 |
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Aug 10, 2015 14:35
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I'm on a quest to discover why my Win10 machine starts back up after shutting down. Also, why the mouse and keyboard can start my machine from shutdown. In spite of that option being disabled for both mouse and keyboard in the BIOS. And not flagged as being able to wake the computer in device management in Windows. Any ideas?
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Mar 15, 2016 11:56
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Grapeshot posted:Is the system actually shutting down or just hibernating when you select shut down like Windows 10 does by default? Try disabling Hybrid Shutdown in the power management settings, you'll have to search for how to do that because I remember the option is very well hidden. Also your boot times will increase a lot. As far as I know it's shutting down for real - hiberfil.sys is disabled through powercfg; subsequently, the option in the power settings to disable fast startup disappeared, so I applied a reghack to force the issue: code:Technology 
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Mar 16, 2016 23:43
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RobotDogPolice posted:I have a GTX680 and I've been experiencing screen tearing constantly. I don't remember this happening before. It doesn't seem to matter what game I'm playing, I get screen tearing whenever I move the camera from left to right. Any idea what's going on? Tearing is typically because your GPU is producing frames faster than your monitor can push them out, I think. Turn VSync on in a game, see if it stops.
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Feb 5, 2018 04:41
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