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Probably a bad sensor or some such. I've never looked at any temps aside from my CPU, GPU and HDD's.
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Sep 25, 2014 19:35
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Does anyone know of a good capture card that has a BNC connection? I was looking at something like this (The first google result). Is this going to be sufficient, or is there something better/cheaper with decent software, possibly to DVR onto my computer?
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Nov 1, 2014 05:26
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Karthe posted:I couldn't find a "short questions" thread in IYG so I'm hoping it's alright to post this here. Anyway, does such a thing exist as a male-to-male 90-degree HDMI adapter? I recently received a PlayStation TV and I want to wire it into a small 4-port HDMI switch without having a bunch of stiff cable sticking out behind the switch. Something like this: I've never seen one like that. I've seen a male-male straight, but not a 90 degree bend. You'd probably be just as easily served by getting a short 1.5' cable and just keeping it looped. That way you still have flexibility on the line if something gets moved for whatever reason. My only question is do you know if the PSTV is going to sit at the perfect height for the two 90 degree adapters to work right? If not you're looking at possible stresses breaking something over time, or using gap spacers of some sort. I would just go with a short cable in this case.
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Nov 4, 2014 17:30
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Chuu posted:I'm in need of a new ADSL modem. The most popular (by newegg rank) appears to be the TP TD-8616. Any reason not to buy this one? Any danger is snagging a cheap used one on eBay? I don't think ADSL has changed in years. All the DSL modems I've bought have been stupid cheap and work just fine. I've actually used a model similar to that and it worked perfectly.
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Nov 20, 2014 18:47
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ApexAftermath posted:So I have a couple 3.5TB Seagate backup+ external drives that I want to take out of their enclosures and hook them up as regular sata drives. I want some USB ports back, and I figure I will get a lot better performance doing it this way. I've done that with a few drives a few times, and there's no real issue. It'll just show up as an extra HDD with all your data intact. I don't think I've ever really run across one that didn't. If you're worried, when you tear apart the drive, just make sure to keep the usb controller chip and associated electronics intact, but I honestly don't think there will be a problem.
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Nov 21, 2014 02:51
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http://www.guru3d.com/content-page/guru3d-driver-sweeper.html Use Driver sweeper to get rid of all your old drivers, then download the new drivers from nVidia's site. The windows drivers are fine for basic use but they won't run well on super-high resolutions or with games really.
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Nov 21, 2014 17:25
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cisco privilege posted:Probably should use Display Driver Uninstaller instead for dealing with the old GPU drivers. Driver Sweeper's not maintained or updated anymore after they moved everything to 'Driver Fusion' instead and ramped up their pricing model. Ah, didn't know that, I'll update my info.
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Nov 21, 2014 18:40
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Furcifer posted:Hey all, Will they allow you to purchase your own modem at all? Is there a reason OTHER than it's Rogers branded? Wrong firmware? Them just being dicks? Can you buy your own modem and put it on? I'm not sure about your ISPs up there, but there is an off chance that Rogers put some "special" firmware that will prevent it from working right.
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Nov 29, 2014 14:03
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Furcifer posted:They just said it was faster and that she should use theirs. I was hoping there was some simple MAC clone/nickname setting in the modem that I could use and copy over to the old one? I guess firmware could be an issue and I'm SOL? What are your Internet speeds? Your old modem is a Docsis3 4x4 channel modem, while the one they're trying to force on you is a 28x8 channel modem. Unless you're running some 100+ mbps internet, you're not going to need the old modem. I think your 4x4 will work with up to 160mbps max download speeds and be consistent about 100mbps. If you're pushing something above 100 you'll definitely need a newer modem.
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Nov 29, 2014 14:41
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Rukus posted:Gothmog has pretty much answered it for you: quote:While a 4x4 modem would work, it's not allowed by the incumbent (Rogers). Rogers has laid down some new rules for third-party ISPs (Hitron) that use their network, one of which being that any new sign-ups have to use 28x8 modems over certain speeds (I think it's 60Mbps), regardless of the actual rated specs for older modems. This is mostly to keep their network in better shape, as the additional channels from these new modems help with congestion and the like. It really sucks right now because the only approved modems are the router/modem gateways that can be a pain in the rear end to bridge correctly. And there's the kicker. The US having no actual cable competition, I didn't know how Canadialand handled multiple ISPs. Makes sense.
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Nov 30, 2014 06:03
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22 Eargesplitten posted:When I tried to boot up my tower today, everything spun up for less than a second, then shut off. It would repeat this process as long as the power was on. It did sound like the heads on the HDDs were searching, but I'm not sure if that had to do with the problem or if that's just what they do when they first get power. It finally started up, but I want to fix this ASAP. My first inclination is to say PSU. It didn't POST, it didn't get to BIOS, it seems like the power just wasn't consistently available. Does that sound right? It could be a few things. Mine does that on occasion, I have to do a static release (unplug it, hold down the power for 30 seconds) and it boots fine. If it's a continuous problem, then you may want to look into the PSU.
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Dec 16, 2014 04:51
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Auron posted:Not sure if this has been covered: I did this recently (Went from an AMD Athlon X2 to an intel i2700k), and it worked without a hitch.
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Dec 16, 2014 19:16
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Have you actually tried a power brick? Sounds like the battery is dead (possibly bad).
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Jan 11, 2015 14:30
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Give me a suggestion goons: I work at a school where we have chromebooks. For some reason Dell didn't think that any threadlocker would be necessary so the screws fall out all the time. Is there a good thread locker we can use to help that isn't retarded expensive?
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Jan 12, 2015 17:08
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Okay goons, help me make sure I'm not overlooking something before I pull the trigger on a new PSU: i7 2600k Asus xxxxxtreme or some crap mother board 3 HDD's SSD 650w Antec PowerBlue PSU Electricity went off at the house, computer wont' boot. Unplugged, held down power, plugged back in, wont' boot. Tore computer down basically to the motherboard, won't boot. HOWEVER if I jumper the power supply to boot it that way, it comes on. I can plug it back into the board, and it will boot. If I power it down (in any capacity), it will not boot again. PSU or the motherboard?
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Jan 29, 2015 00:15
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It's this motherboard (Asus P67 Extreme6). I'm assuming the little power button in the lower corner (left on that picture) is the equivalent. That's the thing though, once I get it to power on by shorting the PSU directly, it will power on the entire system. Not sure for how long, but it wont' let it power again after that. I have to short the PSU and then plug it into the board to power it.
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Jan 29, 2015 00:36
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Factory Factory posted:How are you shorting the PSU while the main ATX connector is plugged in? I'm taking the connector out, shorting it, it fires up, then plugging it back in, pressing the "power button" and it fires up, shut it down, and nothing. e: I'm on it now. Let's do a few reboots to see if I can figure out what the hell is going on. And I can't get to replicate the issue. Going to post a Haus to see if anyone might be able to figure it out, but I think it's pointing motherboard at this point in time. Gothmog1065 fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Jan 29, 2015 |
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Jan 29, 2015 00:49
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bushisms.txt posted:What's the best router/modem worth spending money on to replace the lovely comcast loner? I think a general consensus is the Asus AC68U is one of the best consumer routers on the market right now
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Mar 13, 2015 20:50
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SteveMcQueen posted:I did a quick search but apologies if this is a frequent question. How often should I replace a hard drive? I have a 1TB Samsung from 2010 coming up on it's 5 year anniversary. Crystal Disk pegs it at 4,500 hours powered on. No sign of problems yet but I thought I heard 5 years was a good time to upgrade somewhere. Thanks! Back up your data and replace it when it fails. You could get another 10 years out of it. You should have a backup regardless.
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Mar 17, 2015 19:16
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MTV Crib Death posted:I did edit the virtual memory paging when I was running into the 100% disk usage thing that sometimes happens in Windows 8. But this would have been wiped out when I did a fresh OS install, correct? Either way, the problem was the same before and after. You'll probably need a Haus post for this, but did it start after a driver update? May be the latest graphics drivers are causing some unknown issue and you might have to rollback drivers. Echoing the check your temps too.
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Apr 6, 2015 16:06
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cisco privilege posted:Most laptop fans are universal, at least per-OEM or for a major laptop line (ie: DV6xxx). Make sure the size is correct - if you're replacing a 30mm/40mm fan make sure the replacement is the same size. The only universal parts I've found in laptops are the RAM, HDD and CMOS battery. I would always double check that number directly on the fan. It's always better to take that extra step than to have the wrong one.
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May 15, 2015 20:16
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VOIP phones? Is there any reason to go with anything much over MagicJack? I used to use Vonage and it was pretty good, but I'm looking for cheap too. Basically I"m going to cancel my TWC phone. We like having the house phone because A> we get lovely cell service and B> We like having a number to give out that we can easily ignore.
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Jun 29, 2015 03:37
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BouncingBuckyBalls posted:I will second the vote on using Obihai with Google Voice. It cut my landline from a $40 a month bill to a one time $50 payment almost two years ago. Setup is painless but might take a few hours of your day for the initial setup of entering your information and having the system connect. That poo poo looks amazing except for the fact it looks like I can't transfer my current number in. I WOULD like to keep my number, and it's considered a LandLine/VOIP number.
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Jun 30, 2015 07:05
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FCKGW posted:You can, but you have to port to a cell line temporarily through something like a T-Mobile SIM card. Thanks man. I'll have to do PhonePower, google can't port my number at all. Still a poo poo load cheaper even than my promotional rate.
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Jun 30, 2015 14:10
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chocolateTHUNDER posted:Is there any downside to imaging a failing hard drive? I have a laptop that someone gave to me, and Crystal Disk is showing a Caution sign. Was just going to use Macrium to image the disk to a new one, and throw it back into the laptop. Any corrupt data on the old drive will transfer to the new drive. If the drive won't boot for whatever reason, imaging it won't magically make it boot. It's always best to back up the data as best as possible and install fresh on the new drive.
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Jul 16, 2015 16:47
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I have an odd one. I'm in a school system and we gave out some new computers to teachers, all is well and good. A few of them have their own personal printers. However, for some reason on one teacher's computer it will not allow me to select a local printer at all. TEachers have local admin rights, GPO is correct for the computer, but for some reason it refuses to let us add a local printer, it goes straight to the network ones. Is there anything we may be missing on this, so I can get the printer installed?
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Aug 26, 2015 21:55
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PPills posted:Is it okay to unplug a usb hard drive from the cable end connecting to the hdd, rather than the end that connects to the computer? Hard drive is a WD My Passport Ultra 1 TB USB 3.0. No external power plug. Windows 7. What do you think happens when you unplug the other end?
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Sep 2, 2015 01:13
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IuniusBrutus posted:What is the best way to wipe an SSD for resale? Turn on TRIM and delete all of the files. Many brands have a utility that you can do a "Secure erase" with.
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Sep 17, 2015 14:46
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Darth Ronson posted:My PC has a pink and green pair of audio sockets, one for headphones, one for microphone. A lot of PC headset seem to have one combined jack. How can I tell if my PC can accept this kind of jack, or if I need to get some kind of splitter that splits the black one on the headset into green and pink? Normally it'll be a half pink/green plug, and have the symbol with both mic and speakers with a slash. Worst you can do is plug it in and see if it works.
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Oct 5, 2015 20:52
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Handsome Ralph posted:I'm RMAing a PSU to Seasonic. Normally when they do this, they mean they're sending you a label via Email that you can use for shipping.
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Oct 11, 2015 02:36
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Ynglaur posted:Hi thread. I'm building a house and want to have Ethernet drops everywhere I have a cable drop, and want an Ethernet patch panel in one of the closets. If the electrician is properly licensed, they will have a low voltage license, which means they should know how to set up any keystone jacks. Most electricians will pull your wiring and tag it for you without hooking it up. However, call your local building inspector and find out if there are laws in your specific area. I know my area is too dumb to know what cat cabling is. There are a lot of ways to gently caress up communicating with the builder. Staying on point and going to your house frequently (especially with pulling any communication cable) to make sure they're doing it right. I know a guy who was building a house and the builder kept getting what he was saying wrong (He was running phone and cat5 together, but having it terminate at different places, but the builder kept putting them in the same spot). Cat6e should futureproof your house for quite a while.
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Oct 25, 2015 16:27
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Ynglaur posted:Thank you! I had thought that it was a separate certification, but its good to know a licensed electrician should have it. It depends on the electrician. If they have the low voltage license they should do it without a problem. Some electricians simply don't screw with it at all, at least in my experience, but they will pull cable. Talk to your electrician (or the electrician the contractor is using) to see if they'll pull, terminate, and tag cat6 cabling.
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Oct 25, 2015 18:04
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This probably isn't a simple issue, but hopefully a simple question: My computer won't boot! Basically I'm running win 10 on an i7 4600k (I think), and my computer has been a bit wonky (problems starting) when I put in the new board. The computer will come up with the splash screen, and if I slam tab fast enough to get the splash screen gone, it will get to a point with a blinking line and that's it. NO beeps, no errors. I can't get into the BIOS, etc. What happened is my computer started making the USB connect/disconnect noise constantly, which prompted me to reboot (As it hadn't been done in a while). Is there anything to look at until I replace my PSU (By far the oldest component in the computer - Antec TruePower? Blue 600w)?
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Nov 4, 2015 18:52
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SlayVus posted:Well tab is usually used to just site what the bios is doing. Delete and F2 are the usual keys to get into the bios. Yeah, it switches from the splash to the actual boot screen. None of my other keys work (Both DEL and F2 go to UEFI, F11, or F12 work).
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Nov 4, 2015 22:13
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SlayVus posted:If you trying to go from one motherboard to a new one and it is not the same chipset, you need to reinstall the OS or do some driver finalizing. I did that a while back, it swapped with no issues. It's either a PSU or motherboard issue I'm gambling on. Trying to get a PSU used to test with, don't feel like ripping my wife's out. It does the same thing even with no drives attached, so it's not a drive issue. I'll Haus if I go deeper into troubleshooting, but was just seeing if anyone could think of something other than a PSU issue. e: Well, I'm a goddamn idiot. I even had the problem right in the first post. My USB Hub seems to have poo poo the bed, and when I shut down, something happened and corrupted my SSD. Gothmog1065 fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Nov 5, 2015 |
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Nov 5, 2015 01:04
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Deuce posted:I just moved, took apart my computer and cleaned out the case and whatnot. Put everything back together but now I can't fire up. When I plugged in, there was a momentary flicker of the various LEDs, (like on the GPU) and then dark. Now nothing happens if I push the power switch. On the motherboard (Asrock extreme4 z97) there's a CLRCBTN1 button. If I push that, I get the flicker again. Pull the power plug, and hold down the power button for 15 or so seconds. If that doesn't work, make sure to reseat all the power cables, then remove any PCI/E or USB connections and attempt to power it again. If it doesn't power, it's possibly a bad PSU or motherboard. If it powers, add things back one by one until you find the culprit.
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Nov 10, 2015 02:57
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Is there a specific type of rivet gun and rivets I can use to "repair" broken hinge mounts on laptops? It's for personal use so looks aren't incredibly important.
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Nov 25, 2015 03:40
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Oxygen Deficiency posted:I asked this in the PC Build thread (as a follow-on question related to my custom build) but didn't get any answer so i'm moving it here: Not really necessary, unless you've got
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Nov 30, 2015 16:43
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Oxygen Deficiency posted:Yeah, I don't need any of the data already on it. My main concern is that I created a partition on it months ago and it might cause issues when installing a brand new system on top of it without deleting the partition first. I can't think of an OS installer that doesn't have basic partitioning abilities before installing.
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Nov 30, 2015 21:17
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Anecdotal: When I worked at TWC, we seemed to have a lot of problem with 6141's constantly dropping connection. People HATED it when I told them it was their modem, when it actually was. "Here, let me send out one of ours, and use it for a week and see if it does it" Frothing rage ensued.
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Dec 7, 2015 21:39
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