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Following on from this post in the last thread, I swapped in the new fans and oh my god they're so quiet, I'm loving it. I also put my 5750 in, replacing the two 9800 GTX+ SLI setup. For the most part it's running smoother. However, a problem I was having in the old computer is rearing its head again, which is that newer versions of Minecraft seem to be incompatible with the card. In the old computer, it would lock up and crash; in this one, it's better (doesn't crash or fully lock up), but it still stutters badly enough every time I move the mouse as to render the game unplayable. I asked in the Minecraft thread back in March or so. The consensus was that a certain game update changed the Java libraries, and that somehow made the game incompatible with the card, and until ATI released new drivers (on a 5 year old card... yeah) I'm SOL. I have the latest official drivers; are there, perhaps, unofficial drivers or something like that that might resolve my issue? I know it's a long shot for the ages, but there's no harm in asking, right?
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# ¿ Sep 17, 2014 03:08 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 14:43 |
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Just wanted to touch base and say this seems to have done the trick, thanks!
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# ¿ Sep 19, 2014 07:23 |
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I guess this is the best place for this question, but feel free to redirect me. We have a bunch of old home movies from when I was a kid, in a mixture of VHS and 8mm formats. What would be the most cost-effective way to digitize them for preservation and sharing? Is there some sort of adapter that would let the computer "rip" the movies directly, or is there a place that offers it as a service that would be a better option? We still have the 8mm camcorder and S-video/RCA cables, so I'm sure that could be used for those, but we don't have anything at the moment that plays VHS. My mom also has a smattering of movies from her childhood, on film format. Same question I guess.
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# ¿ Sep 29, 2014 21:27 |
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Are there any good recommendations for a micro USB cable? The one that came with my Galaxy is wearing out (stiff on the phone end, insulation splitting, goes into a charging-not charging loop occasionally when I plug it in.) I bought a random off-the-shelf one for my last phone when the same thing happened and it was lovely, had a loose fit and wouldn't stay plugged in. I'm probably overthinking this.
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# ¿ Oct 29, 2014 19:15 |
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Where would I go to buy standoffs/mounting hardware for a heatsink? Specifically a Coolermaster V8 on an EVGA X58 mobo? My computer's idiot previous owner had it attached with miracles and prayers apparently; I pulled it off to replace the busted fan, and when I went to put it back on... I guess the old shoddily glopped-on thermal paste was structural, because the screw/nut combo that's on there is nowhere near clamping onto the board, and the heat sink can slide around a mm or two in both directions. Current hardware stack is phillips head screw->heat sink bracket->rubber isolator->motherboard->nut, with the nut bottoming out on the screw thread with like 1mm of clearance left above the board surface, which there's no way that's how it's supposed to be. Temp seems to be holding steady at about 48C on all four cores for the moment, but I'd rather have the peace of mind of knowing it's attached properly.
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# ¿ Oct 17, 2016 02:48 |
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So I'm building a new computer. I'll be moving my hard drives over (they're both fairly new, so I have no reason to junk them). Is there an easy way to get my system up and running without having to deal with OS re-installs, or am I gonna have to do some juggling? I think I still have my Windows 7 discs laying around somewhere, but I'm on Windows 10 now and we're past the free upgrade window so I don't know how I'm gonna go about doing all this.
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# ¿ Nov 30, 2016 00:24 |
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glynnenstein posted:I believe that recently-ish MS links your windows 10 activation to your MS account so that when you make hardware changes you just need to log into that and it will re-activate. Oh sick, last time I tried to plug-and-play a hard drive it was a Win7 install so I never knew that. Hardware should arrive tomorrow, fingers crossed for easy mode.
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# ¿ Dec 1, 2016 01:25 |
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Enourmo posted:So I'm building a new computer. I'll be moving my hard drives over (they're both fairly new, so I have no reason to junk them). Is there an easy way to get my system up and running without having to deal with OS re-installs, or am I gonna have to do some juggling? I think I still have my Windows 7 discs laying around somewhere, but I'm on Windows 10 now and we're past the free upgrade window so I don't know how I'm gonna go about doing all this. Follow up to this, the OS loads fine and I've been using it for the last week or so, but it's got an annoying "Activate Windows" overlay constantly on the screen. Activation page says I don't have a valid key. When I hit troubleshoot -> "I changed hardware on this device recently" (which is what MS site says to do after motherboard changes), it opens a new window that displays: Mocking PostTicketToReturnUrl, skipping authentication Redirecting to: https://sdx.microsoft.com/auth/complete-signin?ru=https://sdx.microsoft.com/wlt/flow in 5 seconds And then pops up saying unable to connect to servers to activate, reinstall windows or re-add your account or wait a few days for the server blah blah blah. I removed my desktop from the list and it's back on my account on the microsoft page, so it's recognizing that I'm signed in with a valid account on the machine. I really don't want to reinstall OS, especially given everything is working; I just want the overlay gone.I realize this is kinda getting away from "hardware issues" since the physical swap worked fine, where should I take this?
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# ¿ Dec 12, 2016 01:13 |
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Teledahn posted:Put in your Win7 product key. I just had a very similar experience, upgraded CPU and Mobo, everything went fine except my Windows 10 installation was not longer 'activated'. Was getting the same problem, going through the suggested method with 'I changed hardware on this device recently' wasn't working. It couldn't connect to microsoft's servers for two days. Just had a support session with a service rep and all they did was put in my windows seven key. Activated just fine. "Go dig out my Win7 disks from my mom's place" it is, then. Goody.
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# ¿ Dec 13, 2016 08:11 |
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Is it possible to use my laptop as an auxiliary monitor for my desktop? It's a T440p, has VGA and displayport. I've used both as outputs, but will those connectors receive inputs if I hook my desktop up to them? Desktop has HDMI and displayport directly on the mobo, and hdmi and 2 DVI ports on the GPU, one of which goes to my main (and currently only) monitor. If those ports are typically output-only, then I'll have to suck it up and get a second monitor.
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# ¿ Dec 21, 2016 01:45 |
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fishmech posted:Your only option is to use software like Synergy to share the laptop monitor over the network, though that'll have a little bit of lag. Works plenty fine for most stuff that isn't fast-action games at least. Yeah it's mostly be just having references up for doing CAD stuff without having everything crammed into a corner of the screen, so response time wouldn't be an issue. Never thought of doing stuff through the network, I'll look into that!
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# ¿ Dec 21, 2016 05:28 |
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My headphone cable keeps twisting up of its own accord (HyperX Cloud II specifically). There's about 2 feet directly attached to the headset, which plugs into another 6 foot cable that attaches via USB. Is there some kind of swivel connector I can put between the two to allow rotation, or some kind of stiff sleeve that will keep it from twisting without adding too much weight?
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# ¿ Jan 28, 2017 21:04 |
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I'm building a new computer for my mom, moving her to an OS SSD/bulk storage HDD setup. I've got the clean Win7 install on the new computer, but I need to copy over all her old files still. Now, you or I, we'd be just fine having a big rear end folder named "Old Computer Stuff", and digging through and re-organizing software and files from it as needed. My mom, though, is not as computer-savvy, and would much prefer to have all her existing shortcuts put into place. Is there a quick way to essentially clone her existing desktop into the new computer, or am I stuck manually handholding her as she figures out exactly what stuff she needs? She's an accountant so she's got things like 3 decades' worth of TurboTax files, along with the software to open them, which you can't get anymore, so just re-downloading programs as needed is obviously not feasible.
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# ¿ May 12, 2018 20:04 |
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FCKGW posted:If you're using Windows 7 you can use something like Windows Easy Transfer to transfer all her personal files and shortcuts. Your problem is going to be whatever programs you have because those can't be transferred and muse be re-installed. The old computer is also running 7 so at least the OSes are compatible.
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# ¿ May 12, 2018 20:54 |
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Space Gopher posted:Don't do this. She's A. very set in her ways and B. about to retire, at this point a lot of what she does is her own stuff. I'll definitely want her to upgrade at some point (I've had 10 since day one and it's been great, no need to convince me), but for the time being I just want to get her new computer up and running; the old one was built for performance (circa 2008) rather than economy or longevity, and it's showing its age.
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# ¿ May 13, 2018 06:04 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 14:43 |
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So I recently picked up a second monitor, which has a built-in speaker. Is there a reasonably simple way, using standard USB or stereo jacks, to not only run audio to both monitors, but to split the audio based on which monitor the video, audio player, etc is displayed on? Or is running a splitter and playing the same audio on both the best I can hope for?
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# ¿ Sep 3, 2018 03:57 |