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ufarn
May 30, 2009
Am I correct in assuming that the Radeon 6870 uses a DVI-in on both its ports?

EDIT: And that one DVI-out and HDMI-out should work fine.

ufarn fucked around with this message at 19:18 on Oct 8, 2014

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ufarn
May 30, 2009
Best wireless adapter for a 80/30 connection on a ASUS P7P55D-E P55 S-1156 ATX motherboard?

ufarn
May 30, 2009

Alereon posted:

Intel Wireless-AC 7260 Desktop kit, a bundle of the laptop and a desktop slot adapter with antenna kit. This is the best option for desktops, and the version without the desktop adapter is excellent for laptops as well.
Cool, thanks. They're currently out of stock in my country, so is there a really basic cheap-ish USB adapter to get in the interim?

ufarn
May 30, 2009
I've put my Intel wireless adapter in the bottom slot of my motherboard (because that was the only short slot available), but the Intel software diagnostics says the "Wireless Hardware is not bound to transport driver".


(ASUS P55.)

It can't be that the Bluetooth is connected to the wrong pins, I assume. Nothing appears to show up in Device Manager, but Windows appeared to look for drivers, when I booted.

EDIT: Bluetooth works now, and the wireless adapter shows up in Device Manager, but I still get the same error. The automatic driver tool does not appear to have a newer driver version.

EDIT2: Uninstalling the driver and running the updater tool once more fixed it. Even though the software said I had the same versio and threw an error, but hey.

ufarn fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Mar 18, 2015

ufarn
May 30, 2009
Need to connect an SSD via USB to a laptop. What’s a decent enclosure connector thingy? Might need one for a mechanical HDD as well.

ufarn
May 30, 2009
Not sure whether to put it in software or hardware, so I put it in both:

I am formatting my SSD in Windows; do I format the separate 10% partition that Samsung’s SSD tool created, and merge it with my partition, or do I just leave it as is?

There’s also a system-reserved partition, but I just figure that should be left as-is.

In other words:

- [ ] System reserved
- [ ] Primary
- [ ] Unallocated (10%)

I’m thinking of doing this:

- [ ] System reserved
- [D] Primary
- [D] Unallocated (10%)

Where D is “Delete” instead of Format.

It’s been forever since I installed Windows on a computer, so I might be wrong here.

ufarn
May 30, 2009
I've already got my SSD and primary mHDD set up to my two regular SATA ports, (11). Now I've got a second mHDD I need to connect, and nothing seems to be happening, when I connect it to (2) here:





Before I start troubleshooting, should I really be connecting it to (10) instead?

I'm using AHCI for my SSD - at least for the regular SATA ports - and an Asus P7P55D-E motherboard.

For some reason, Asus wants me to install the drivers on my CD(?!) without offering me a place to download them from on their website? I can't recall how many drivers beyond the Intel chipset drivers I've installed.

ufarn
May 30, 2009

Alereon posted:

You should be connecting your drives to the six Intel SATA ports labelled 11. Do not attempt to use the ports labelled 8 or 10. Do not install any software from the Asus CD or website, you get any drivers you need from the manufacturer of that hardware. That's Intel for your chipset and its built-in AHCI controller.
D'oh, I'm an idiot. I guess my motherboard isn't that old.

Do I initialize it with GPT or MBR? It's just for temporary drag-and-drop storage from within Windows. Later, it'll go in a NAS, but I assume it'll have to be formatted for that first anyway.

ufarn
May 30, 2009

Alereon posted:

If the drive is 2TB or less use MBR, if it's >2TB use GPT.
Cool, GPT it is.

ufarn fucked around with this message at 22:16 on Feb 16, 2016

ufarn
May 30, 2009
I've been over this on a number of other occasions, but just in case someone miraculously had an idea for what the problem might be, what could be the cause of a ~2Mb/s speed on a 100Mb connection with a network chart that looks like this:



I've had this problems across two ISP modems, so I wonder what else it might be. The antenna cable is connected directly from the socket to the modem, and I'm using an ethernet cable to rule out wi-fi.

ufarn
May 30, 2009
I’m doing some MEMTEST on my RAM (2x2 and 2x4), and I can’t remember what’s consider a good amount of passes, and what the best metric for bugged RAM is in terms of errors. Some errors are acceptable I imagine, but what’s the threshold?

Also, when I’m getting 30+ errors during my second pass, I reckon I might as well hang up that module at that point, but I’m going to let it finish a second pass for now (given I’m only testing one module at a time).

ufarn fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Jun 25, 2016

ufarn
May 30, 2009
I removed the one module - another one appears to have had 1 error, as I left the remainder to run overnight.

My display driver keeps crashing lately. Is this RAM-related, or could it be a number of other things? It happened before I upgraded to W10, too, but not as frequently.

I've also re-installed my AMD drivers (non-whql-64bit-radeon-software-crimson-16.6.1-win10-win8.1-win7-june2) a billion times now.

I can't remove whatever this is for some reason fwiw, though:

ufarn
May 30, 2009

ufarn posted:

I removed the one module - another one appears to have had 1 error, as I left the remainder to run overnight.

My display driver keeps crashing lately. Is this RAM-related, or could it be a number of other things? It happened before I upgraded to W10, too, but not as frequently.

I've also re-installed my AMD drivers (non-whql-64bit-radeon-software-crimson-16.6.1-win10-win8.1-win7-june2) a billion times now.

I can't remove whatever this is for some reason fwiw, though:


Well, I removed another module, and got no memtest errors overnight, and my display driver still keeps crashing. What's the next step in debugging this?

ufarn
May 30, 2009
Is there a sensible way to install something like a vacuum bag as exhaust for my rear case fan? I've got my computer in a very dusty room, and I think that as silly as this idea is, it's the most effective way to deal with the issue. It's facing the wall anyway.

ufarn
May 30, 2009

Alereon posted:

Put washable filters on the intake side of your case fans, so the dust never gets inside your computer in the first place. Ideally your case runs at positive pressure so you just filter one or two intake fans and don't need to worry about vents and gaps.

I solved my dusty house problem by duct-taping a 20" pleated furnace filter to the intake side of a 20" box fan. Leave it running on low and vacuum it off periodically, it makes an amazing difference. This can actually be vastly more effective than any commercial air purifier you buy depending on the filter you select, but the filters that block a lot (3M Filtrete or any MERV8+) will block a lot of airflow.
The front fans already have a washable filter, and they haven't caught overmuch, hence why I don't feel great about the current setup. But maybe that could be improved on.

There's aircondition in the place, but not in the room, so I don't know whether using a fan is for me. I don't live in a super warm place, so I only need a fan during peak summer.

ufarn
May 30, 2009
This is super useful, thanks.

Quiet is something I value pretty highly, although ghetto look is fine if it's placed in a corner of the place or below my desk - assuming the latter doesn't diminish the purification.

I assume I have positive air flow (two front fans, one back fan, a GFX with turbine fans, a CPU heatsink (Noctua NH-D14), dual, and I think that's about it. But maybe I'm wrong? It was pretty crazy how much dust was in the case either way, and cleaning that heatsink is such a goddamn pain.

(I live in Europe, so I'll have to go with something that ships from within - or the UK. :v:)

ufarn
May 30, 2009
With Samsung, you can just let the firmware (Samsung Magician) overprovision the 10% so youo don't have to worry about it. It basically creates a separate partition that can't be touched.

ufarn fucked around with this message at 12:21 on Aug 1, 2016

ufarn
May 30, 2009
I bought a WD Red, WD60EFRX. The shop said it is 7200 RPM, but the model appears as 5400 when I look it up on PCPP and elsewhere. Is there somewhere in Windows where I can clarify what the actual RPM is?

ufarn fucked around with this message at 14:06 on Aug 7, 2016

ufarn
May 30, 2009
Well that's loving great. Guess I'll need to have a word with them.

ufarn
May 30, 2009
PCPP says a new i7-6700K would be incompatible with my Noctua NH-D14 - how come?

ufarn
May 30, 2009

HMS Boromir posted:

It doesn't say that if I just add the two parts alone. Can you link the build?
Weird. Here: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/Jtz6r7.

EDIT: PCPP appears to have two versions of the cooler. Maybe I entered the wrong version. According to my online receipt, mine is the "NOCTUA NH-D14 S-1155/1156/1366/AM3".

ufarn fucked around with this message at 14:36 on Aug 27, 2016

ufarn
May 30, 2009
Cool, cheers.

ufarn
May 30, 2009
Should I also go for a quad channel motherboard, even though I'll only start out with two RAM sticks?

ufarn
May 30, 2009

Alereon posted:

You don't get a choice, you need a dual-channel motherboard for a dual-channel CPU. Do not buy a quad-channel CPU and motherboard unless you know why you are doing that.
So if I understand this right, I can buy both dual channel and quad-channel DDR4 for a 6/7700K, but the motherboard has to be dual channel for the CPU to support it?

Didn't know the CPU compatibility was a thing. How can you generally tell which memory channels a CPU supports?

ufarn
May 30, 2009
Why can't I find any 2x8 GB RAM for my ASUS P7P55D-E with dual-channel support? Although I live in Europe, which would you go for? Maybe just an Amazon.co.uk link.

I haven't really bought hardware from Amazon before, and their filter system as absolute garbage, but they at least filter based on dual channel unlike PCPP.

ufarn
May 30, 2009

Alereon posted:

Dual-channel isn't something you support or filter for, it's what the memory modules sold in pairs are. Notice how when you filter for "16GB" nearly everything that comes up is a 2x8GB kit? That's dual-channel.
For some reason, shops in my country list the modules as "Parity: none", but that's apparently something else. For´some reason, Amazon keeps filtering the 16 GB option.

I can only go with PC3-12800 and 1600 MHz basically, right?

Are any of these better than the others? The CL8s are not available in my country, and I don't want to buy Ballistix. The rest look like they have the exact same specs.

Prob just gonna get the Corsair Vengeance (CL9, CML16GX3M2A1600C9).

ufarn fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Aug 30, 2016

ufarn
May 30, 2009

Alereon posted:

You want RAM that doesn't have tall heatspreaders that won't fit under an aftermarket heatsink, the G.Skill Ares line for example. Aside from that as long as it's 1.50V and no higher than CL9 it should work fine. So not Corsair Vengeance.
I couldn't tell by the specs, but are you saying Ares instead of Vengeance because of a lower profile?

ufarn
May 30, 2009

Alereon posted:

Yes. I've also personally had poor luck with Corsair RAM over G.Skill, but I don't have any actual evidence Corsair is less good.
Cool, cheers.

ufarn
May 30, 2009

ufarn posted:

Cool, cheers.

Just got my RAM, and I see this in Windows



Any idea what gives?

EDIT: Maybe the placement is wrong: Right now, it's

[Black] [Blue] [Black] [Blue]



And I've placed the sticks in both the blue slots (as my previous sticks).

Gonna try the two As and see if ti works this time around.

[Black] [Blue] [Black] [Blue]

EDIT: Nope, still doesn’t want to boot with that config.

ufarn fucked around with this message at 13:45 on Sep 2, 2016

ufarn
May 30, 2009

MrMoo posted:

Windows Home Basic?
10 Pro x64.

EDIT: After I put the RAM back, it suddenly works fine. I guess you just have to do it again and again until it works, but weird that it was detected and still didn’t work properly the first time.

ufarn fucked around with this message at 14:15 on Sep 2, 2016

ufarn
May 30, 2009

Alereon posted:

You may have had a module not fully seated. Check using CPU-Z to make sure you didn't put the RAM in the wrong slots for dual-channel operation, as falling back to single channel will impact performance. The motherboard manual tells you which slots you should be using.
It says "Dual", so I'm in the clear. Annoying that there isn't better feedback, but it's a 6yo computer, so maybe it's better now.

ufarn
May 30, 2009
I'd probably look for a ready-to-order replacement just in case. Could be your cooling is busted with some dust that needs to be cleaned. The GFX is usually the one to take the main hit from obstructed cooling.

ufarn
May 30, 2009
bvckup is a really nice tool for backing up and scheduling backups, to make sure things go as smoothly as possible, too.

ufarn
May 30, 2009

Berated Tham posted:

Earlier today, my roommate enthusiastically hugged me while I was carrying my Lenovo T430 laptop and some papers and a can of soda. As a result, I dropped my laptop and the top cover of the laptop is now cracked. I have attached a picture. I think it's pretty groovy that I can see the light of the turned-on laptop at the point on the top cover where the crack is largest.

Anyway, what course of action do you all recommend me to take? The laptop is totally functional and I am using it right now to make this post. But I'm a huge fan of this laptop and really don't want it to break anytime soon, so I don't want to just pretend that nothing happened.

So, like, should I perhaps put some duct tape over the crack or something? Or should I take it to a computer repair shop? I would prefer not to ship the laptop off to the folks at Lenovo because that seems like it would be a huge hassle.

Thanks very much for your consideration, and I hope everyone is having a nifty November!


You should at the very least put some tape on it (after cleaning it), because of all the dirt and liquids than can be trapped wherever that is in your laptop.

Black electrical tape is fairly inconspicuous compared to duct tape.

ufarn
May 30, 2009
I can't find a cable that fits in the optical port of the receiver. The toslink cable does not fit, and the miniplug cable is too thick.

Are you supposed to remove the cap on the toslink cable to make it fit in with a jack-like size? And if so, how the hell do you go about that?

e: It looks like a piece of plastic snapped off on the receiver port. Not that I know where that leaves me.

ufarn fucked around with this message at 13:48 on Dec 25, 2016

ufarn
May 30, 2009

Geemer posted:

Are you looking at a Mini-TOSLINK perhaps?

Hope your bit that snapped off wasn't vital.
It already "works"; I just wanted to add a splitter so their Apple TV would also have surround. For now, I'm just connecting the receiver with the splitter, even though the cable is a bit long, but I wonder what the technician did when he set theirs up. I can only imagine he removed the cap on the toslink to get it to work.

ufarn
May 30, 2009
What's the deal with OCK connectors, and why do I only see beQuiet PSUs feature them?

ufarn
May 30, 2009

Sab669 posted:

What is "T" designation in the Skylake i5's? I found a website in the past that says what each letter is but I can't find it now :(

My dad wants a new computer and he sent me pictures of 2 he's looking at. One is a $300 Pentium J3710 with 4GB of RAM and 1TB of HDD space. The other is an i5-6400T with 12GB of RAM and 1TB for $500.

I just wasn't sure what the T is. I know K series comes with an unlocked multiplier for overclocking but that's it...

Also, do you guys think it might be feasible to just build something better for him that price range? I'd be happy to do it... I'm just at work and can't easily research hardware prices right now. I work for a company owned by a college so I'm pretty sure I can get Windows for cheap. That'd be the biggest concern, I imagine.
This is the guide you're thinking about.

ufarn
May 30, 2009
My i5-750 and Noctua NH-D14 are about 7 years old. Should I re-apply some thermal paste to the cpu?

I don't really have any issues like temperature.

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ufarn
May 30, 2009
Crossposting from the part-picking thread:

ufarn posted:

Apparently, my Dark Base 900 doesn't have automatic fan control ("4-pin PWM Connector to mobo"), but can I buy a third-party solution instead?

My non-Pro apparently only has manual control with a front panel interface.

Here's what mine has:

A. 4-pin PWM connector
B. 3-pin fan connector
C. Fan speed switch connector
D. Power connector (SATA)

Or maybe one of these are designated for the manual case control and can be repurposed for automatic control.

Here's what the Pro version has:

A. 4-pin PWM connector to mobo
B. 4-pin PWM connector
C. 3-pin fan connector
D. LED strip connector
E. Power connector (SATA)
F. Fan speed switch connector
G. Qi charger power conenctor

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