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runoverbobby posted:Is it a Big Deal that while I was building my PC I somehow mixed up the AC connector cord for my power supply with the one for my monitor and cannot figure out which one was packaged with which? No, they're a standard thing. I have 20 or 30 lying around here and they're interchangeable.
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Dec 28, 2014 22:44
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lollybo posted:Sorry to clog up the thread with yet another PSU question. Looks like I have had really bad luck with PSUs. I recently got a seasonic x650 and it is a nice PSU except at idle there is an annoying high pitched sound at idle. The sound goes away when I run furmark and prime 95. It is also intermittent, sometimes it will go off and go back on again, with no rhyme or reason. And random activities, like scrolling on a webpage or loading a video, predictable causes it to pause for a bit. Is there another solution to this problem, other than an RMA? I read something about this being possibly related to the wall socket being improperly grounded, which may make sense as my system seemed to be silent when I built it at my parents' house, maybe I will try another socket to see if it improves... It sounds like you're describing coil whine.
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Jan 6, 2015 05:01
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Instant Grat posted:Is it possible to get an extension for a front-panel HD Audio connector? The cable in this case is comically short and the cooler I want to install might make it impossible to reach the header on the motherboard. Yeah: http://www.amazon.com/CVTAUDIOE25-Extension-standard-motherboard-connector/dp/B0043SKQJK I'd probably just use electronic jumper cables to make my own but I have them on hand already: http://www.amazon.com/Phantom-dupont-cable-200mm-female/dp/B00A6SOGC4 Obviously the extension is cleaner and less fiddly.
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Jan 6, 2015 13:43
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HERAK posted:Does anyone know if the nzxt grid+ can only be controlled by the nzxt cam software or if it can be controlled by speedfan or ASUS AI Suite? From what I can find online, it seems that it's a proprietary USB fan controller and as such is limited to its own software. It does use USB as a virtual serial port, however, and this guy seems to have reverse engineered the communication protocol and written his own control app since the cam software sounds pretty bad: https://rizvanrp.com/tag/nzxt-grid-speedfan/
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Jan 7, 2015 13:34
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Ramadu posted:How do I go about erasing a hard drive in order to give it to a friend? Its a SSD so is there a guide to do that? http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/securely-erase-ssd-without-destroying/ has links to many of the major manufacturer's secure erase utilities. If your disk isn't made by one them then the easiest way is Parted Magic. Unfortunately parted magic has gained a $5 fee. I used this method with gparted on a patriot wildfire disk and it worked a couple of months ago. It's free but it's kind of a pain in the rear end, so use the manufacturer's utility first if your disk has one: http://www.patriotmemory.com/forums...2b5680286bfff96
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Jan 12, 2015 01:48
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kode54 posted:Is it a sign of cheap hardware that I have this WD external 3 TB drive that has no way of checking SMART values whatsoever? It doesn't even support bad sector reallocation. I had to fill the drive up with small files, then stumble upon files containing bad sectors purely by luck, then move those files into a "!!!! Don't Delete This!" folder in the root directory. That's pretty bad that you can't view the smart data. I have an old phenom system that doesn't let crystal disk info view the data but I was always able to check out the health with Seatools or whatever, and externals work fine with the usb ATA bridge chip they use. I guess WD might have skimped on that chip but without even looking at the SMART data you already know that the drive is dead.
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Jan 16, 2015 08:42
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spasticColon posted:The PSU in my current system is now five years old so I was thinking about replacing it but it's a Corsair HX650 and it has a seven year warranty. I was going to just replace it but that would mean having to rewire my computer or at least get another HX650 and swap it out. It's currently powering a 2500K@4.2GHz, a single GTX660Ti, two hard drives and a SSD drive so I'm not taxing too much while gaming am I? Should I even be worried about it and if the Power Supply does indeed fail at some point will it take the rest of my system with it or is there a fail-safe built into it to prevent that from happening? Use power supplies until the end of the warranty or for 5 years, whichever comes later. I'd keep it until you hit 7 years if it's not giving you any trouble. At that point buy something nice and efficient; whatever the parts picking thread is recommending at the time. Redoing the power wires in a case is a pain but it doesn't take too long compared to how long they last, but I'd still put it off for a while. Power supply failures can be graceful or they can be catastrophic, I've seen both. Most of the graceful ones I've seen have been bad PSUs that gradually went from working to barely booting up and then not booting up, and the catastrophic ones have been hit by surges (the worst was motherboard, cpu, PSU and ram all dead at once). That's just my general experience though and bad PSUs can absolutely kill everything they're hooked up to and surges can be graceful, there's just too many variables to be definitive. e: one time I looked at a PC that someone with anger issues had punched the top of. Everything was dead including the drives so I have no idea what he did but it probably shorted a bunch of poo poo out at once.
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Feb 9, 2015 09:29
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Dolphin Fetus posted:I'm not a hardware expert at all but I really need an answer for this: It's not overheating, it's just junk data from a sensor that it's trying to read that likely doesn't exist on your motherboard. Here's mine. Nothing is overheating on my system, nor is it at -128C:  HWInfo is better at figuring out what your system has and displaying it with its sensor display, although it's a bit beefier software. edit: actually the bogus sensors show up in hwinfo as well but the main ones to watch are CPU and GPU, the rest are pretty hit or miss as to whether your motherboard even has them. Rexxed fucked around with this message at 06:54 on Feb 17, 2015 |
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Feb 17, 2015 06:51
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Germstore posted:gigabyte g1 sniper z97 and ocz arc 100 240gb Is it too late to return both?
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Mar 9, 2015 03:17
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Germstore posted:No. Returning the motherboard would be a huge hassle though. I'm mostly being an rear end in a top hat about your component choices because both gigabyte motherboards and OCZ SSDs are pretty bad. They should work, however, and if either is bad I'd assume there'll be an RMA available. It's probably the SSD but there's really no way to be certain unless it happens more often and gives you an opportunity to troubleshoot. Check the smart data of the SSD with Crystal Disk Info just to be sure there's nothing that stands out: http://crystalmark.info/download/index-e.html You want the standard edition, pick portable so you don't have to opt-out of adware with the installer version.
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Mar 9, 2015 03:51
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Germstore posted:Thanks. I'll try that tool. I knew OCZ has a bad rep, but I thought gigabyte was top tier. Their video cards are alright, but they've been cutting corners on motherboards for a long time and are definitely to be avoided if possible. The most audacious recent example is releasing a Revision 2 of a positively tested board that's been redesigned to use worse parts and cash in on the good reviews of the Revision 1 version: http://uk.hardware.info/reviews/5835/spot-the-differences-gigabyte-motherboard-revisions-present-markedly-different-test-results
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Mar 9, 2015 04:11
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Schroeder91 posted:I bought a new case to build out of today. It ships with 3 fans, but has space for 4 more. Should I worry about getting fans for these slots? it's going to house an i3-4150 w/ H97M mobo and an EVGA 750 ti superclocked 2gb. I live in Phoenix and had a computer nuke itself of me before. Small case, but I probably didn't clean it enough either. You most likely won't need more fans than the 3 included ones since your system isn't overclocked and you aren't getting a video card with high power use. You could replace them with quieter ones if they're loud but I'd wait until you try them out first. LED color is personal preference but a lot of folks go with colors complimentary to the accents on their other hardware. If you plan to sleep in the same room as it and you might leave it on avoid blue LEDs.
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Mar 11, 2015 16:06
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LingcodKilla posted:I just built a computer and my knowledge is pretty limited but I have some decent friends helping so it went well. The computer runs fine but it doesnt stay off. When I shut it down it just restarts. It's not that big of deal because I dont pay for power here but it seems like that shouldnt be like that. You might look to see if the power switch is physically able to move freely. I had a PC that would randomly reset every few days and it turned out that the physical cover of the reset switch would lightly press on it, making it very occasionally reset the pc. I doubt turning itself back on would be the only thing the power switch on yours would do but it's worth looking. You can also check the motherboard settings for "auto power on" and wake on lan and that sort of stuff.
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Mar 21, 2015 20:17
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THE loving MOON posted:I just ordered a new computer for what I thought was a good deal off of Newegg today, only to find one for the same price with a much better processor when I got home from work. I'm ready to cancel the old order and do this one instead, but first I need to know something. Neither of those AMD processors are going to be good for gaming compared to even low end Intel CPUs. Since you're looking at gaming video cards, I'd highly suggest avoiding both of those computers entirely if that's what you plan to do with it. If you want build advice or even just computer picking advice, please hit up the Parts Picking Megathread, it's not just for building PCs.
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Mar 22, 2015 04:50
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Fight Club Sandwich posted:yes that's the one. good poo poo i couldn't even find the fan itself with the serial number (was looking for the fan so i could try to find the specs and see if they listed the cable) Looks like something like this, but you'd have to check the size on the barrel jack and make sure it's correct.. There are, as you'll see in the reviews, Type N barrel jack like the one on this, and Type M which is a different size and a different listing. http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Type-Barrel-Power-Cable/dp/B009JXJITS
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Mar 28, 2015 02:30
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Straker posted:I guess this is probably at least as appropriate as asking in IYG, so... are one-way HDMI cables a thing, provided they're not crazy active extenders or anything weird? I need to get video INTO a big AIO "tablet"/portable monitor, which has a micro/type D connector on it; it came with a cable that works just fine for this purpose, and it's meant to be used as a portable monitor, there's a button in the OSD to switch to HDMI input, I'm not trying to make it do anything crazy. But I just bought http://www.amazon.com/CNE82393-6-Feet-Micro-Ethernet-Motorola/dp/B003Y3TS4Y/ because I'm out of town and forgot the cable that came with it, and it doesn't work. My laptop can see the monitor, and presumably the tablet/monitor would be able to output to a real monitor/projector/whatever, but when I switch it to HDMI input it's not getting anything. Looking more closely, the product description says it "supports" type A output and type D input. What the gently caress is this nonsense? I can't even find any type A<->D cables that are explicitly two-way, or at least A->D. Some third party HDMI cables don't always follow the full HDMI specs for cables. This was an issue for me when I was using a Droid Bionic Lapdock (cell phone monitor/keyboard/mouse thingy) with a computer and needed the right micro-hdmi to full size hdmi adapter cable. The lapdock won't turn on its screen unless it gets proper signaling through the cable and the first cable I bought didn't pass that connection through. I had to purchase another one which did. Here's a lot of information about the issue and a workaround for the specific case I mentioned: http://www.element14.com/community/community/raspberry-pi/blog/2012/09/27/raspberry-pi-lapdock-hdmi-cable-work-around In your case you'll probably just need to get a different cable and give it another shot. I ended up buying both of the cables I got on ebay and the one with the red HDMI sticker on one end didn't work while one that looked a lot like the one you bought did. It wasn't branded especially well but it was sold as: 10FT Premium HDMI to Micro HDMI Cable M/M for HTC EVO 4G / Droid X Phones / Xoom The one that didn't work for me was: Premium 3FT Micro HDMI to HDMI Cable Male to Male Cell Phone HTC EVO 4G 3 FT Since the listing titles are so similar it seems like a bit of a crapshoot and since they're from 2013 I don't have the original listings or anything to link unfortunately.
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Apr 2, 2015 02:38
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FaustianQ posted:So I was toying around with a super old Kentsfield build (ASrock775i65) and was a bit confounded after setting it up, that it wouldn't even post - everything would spin up, but no sounds nor visual feed. So I pulled the RAM and put in a 512MB test piece and it suddenly boots up, but will always BSOD just before hitting Win7 login screen. Is this a combination of bad board and bad RAM? I thought Win 7 would still boot with 512. Check the motherboard for bulging capacitors. Boot it up with a memtest86 disc and see if it gets memory errors. If something was going bad on the board or with the memory before it was shut down for good it may have corrupted the windows install, or the HD may even be bad.
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Apr 3, 2015 05:20
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Leandros posted:A HDD of mine (Samsung Spinpoint F1 HD753LJ) recently got the SMART End-To-End error and now it's all kinds of hosed up (I'm trying to salvage my files but it's a 750GB disk pulling about 130kB/s, and I'm not even sure if it's actually uncorrupted data I'm getting out). I happen to have an identical disk that's fine and I was wondering if it's a good idea to swap out the PCBs for the time being to get my files off it. It won't be worth swapping the PCBs since the disc is probably physically damaged inside the housing and your current controller at least knows where some of the damage is. Changing to a different controller will make things worse or impossible. Swapping a PCB can sometimes be useful for data retrieval but generally only when that part of the disk isn't working. Give Roadkil's unstoppable copier a shot for moving files off. It won't necessarily be faster but it contends with bad disks better than windows: http://www.roadkil.net/program.php?ProgramID=29
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Apr 4, 2015 21:36
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Leandros posted:Thanks for the link. So far copying has gone without fail it seems, it's just been slow as hell. I looked up the error and read some other threads on it, one of the things said was that the cache may be dying (the flag pertains to a parity difference in copying files), which is why I thought of swapping out the PCBs. However I also noticed that copying from another partition goes at the average write speed of the target drive, so maybe one of the platters is broken. It slows down heavily when it encounters bad sectors to try to correct them or relocate the data on them. It's really time consuming compared to normal reads. I guess it's not impossible that the cache is bad on your controller but if it works normally in some places and not in others it sounds more like damage to the platters.
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Apr 5, 2015 01:30
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BurritoJustice posted:The backblaze thing can be safely ignored. The Seagate drives used by backblaze are consumer drives "shucked" from cheap external drives, and then placed in a "pod" with literally zero vibration protection so they shake themselves to death. These are not drives or conditions you will get if you buy a barracuda and place it in your case, and under those circumstances the fail rates between companies are virtually identical, with Seagate actually close to the best. Backblaze themselves still use a majority of Seagate drives and continue to buy them more than any other OEM. The reason I now avoid Seagate desktop drives isn't Blackblaze, it's that I've had a number fail while not reporting bad sectors in the SMART data. They show a high read error rate and sometimes ultra DMA CRC error count and then the data begins to get corrupted. Usually errors like that are the cable or something but in these cases replacing the cable makes no difference, new disks work perfectly, and the old disks just keep piling on more and more read errors while things go corrupt on the disk. I've had two disks in the last month go bad for clients, both from Dells. One was a 500gb seagate barracuda that was manufactured in 2012 and the other was a 2tb that was about the same age (came from a Dell XPS 8500, third gen i7 machine). In both cases there was just odd behavior with the systems and then suddenly the filesystem was going bad. I still have the 2TB disk and SeaTools tells me it's fine. CrystalDiskInfo does as well, but because it barely functions it's quite clear it's failing already. That said, I've had very good luck with the 2.5" portable Seagate disks. Not all of their products are built to deceive you into thinking that they're okay when they're not, but some certainly are.
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Apr 14, 2015 14:49
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spasticColon posted:Well I opened the side of my case listened more closely and it sounds like its coming from the video card (ASUS GTX 660Ti) so coil whine then? It's really faint and it only does it when running a game with vsync turned off or when my system is idle but something accesses the SSD which is how I discovered the noise in the first place. My system including the video card seems to be running fine so I'm not worried about it but should I be worried? It sounds like it's probably coil whine which isn't harmful, just annoying. If the sound changes in the future it could be a fan going bad but the consistent behavior you're seeing, where it makes the sound only under certain situations, doesn't sound like it's a fan.
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Apr 19, 2015 06:44
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FaustianQ posted:I've somehow cornered myself into a lovely situation with a relative. My aunt has a computer that's from 2003, an old Dell 4600C monstrosity, and she is insanely attached to it for sentimental reasons - so I can't chuck it. A lot of people just don't have reasonable expectations on computer longevity because they are used to major appliances lasting 20+ years. Computers aren't like major appliances in that they tend to be completely outclassed by a new cheap model after 5+ years. That was also the depreciation schedule that some businesses I've done work for used for PCs. I've fixed and maintained and put money into old PCs for a long time. I still have the Pentium 100 I built in 1998 on a shelf. I've also learned that it's really not worth putting money into an older system beyond basic life support because it's always going to be outclassed by new hardware and new hardware is often cheaper. Maybe she thinks she needs to spend $1000 on a new computer or something, but that isn't the case. She may be attached to the computer because it just works and has for so long, but she will get over it quickly if she has a newer and much better computer to use instead. People fear change but they also like new shiny things.
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Apr 19, 2015 23:50
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. Can I fix this in anyway? Could I just secretly gut this computer, throw in an itx and somehow make a Flex or SFX PSU work? That's still way more expensive than just getting some 5 year old tech off ebay.
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Shai-Hulud posted:Can a lovely or broken monitor cause screen tearing in games? Ist not always tearing but when it is it seems to mostly happen in the same spot. Maybe, but it could also be the game.
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Apr 27, 2015 17:01
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Freakbox posted:Alright- So I'm building a computer for a friend, and I've encountered an issue I've never stumbled across before. The drat thing won't boot into a GRUB//OS unless I go directly into the BIOS//Boot Manager and tell it what to boot to. The Hard Drive is in port 0, and the motherboard is at default settings; it has Windows 7 and ubuntu on it. You probably have to go into the BIOS and specify the boot device. If the Hard Disk is already at the top of the list then you may have to specify which hard disk is the one to primarily boot from. All motherboards have different BIOSes so I can't tell you where it is specifically, but it's usually under the Boot menu.
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Apr 28, 2015 03:16
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khy posted:My condo complex has WAY TOO MANY wifi hotspots. I suspect this is why my wifi performance sucks rear end. When I do a scan from my chromebook there are more than 30 results. The N600 I'm seeing online isn't a combo unit, but combo units are almost never as good as a separate modem and router. If there's a ton of competing 2.4ghz bands definitely switch to 5ghz, it has more channels available and fewer people are using it so far.
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May 12, 2015 13:02
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Guitarchitect posted:My laptop won't start There's no way to be certain of what is wrong but usually it's either that the HD is corrupt or the fan is full of dust or has failed and can't adequately cool the system. Here's a teardown video for that model: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-x1UDPma8tg
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May 15, 2015 02:14
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Similar to Faustian, it's in a boot repair loop. I think grapeshot probably nailed the cause of my issue - lately it'll shut down in about 20 mins from overheating if I watch netflix on anything other than the lowest quality.
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Chuu posted:Thanks, this is getting me a ton closer, but I'm still having problems. Pretty much every hit I get is going the opposite way -- Mic + Headphone to Combo Jack. I'm looking for the opposite. Does what I'm looking for exist, or do I just buy one of those and two 3.5mm male to male cables? I'm not quite sure what you need based on the description. It sounds like you want a 4 pole male to two 3 pole male (or one male one female?) but those aren't likely to exist because they'd be for connecting a device to another device instead of what you usually do which is connect a device to headphones or something. Anyway here's 4 pole male to 2x 3 pole female: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ and 4 pole female to 2x 3 pole male: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-MUYHSFMM-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B0058DOWH6/ http://www.amazon.com/EZOPower-Headset-Adapter-Smartphone-smartphone/dp/B0046FMRGA/ If you need to go from device to device with either of them you'll need male to male cables in addition. 4 pole male to male: http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Record-Audio-Headphone-Connect/dp/B00MPGMIRA/ http://www.amazon.com/Estone%C2%AE-3-5mm-Noodle-Record-Stereo/dp/B00MM1KZBY/ 3 pole male to male: http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109764-3-Feet-Stereo-Plated/dp/B00AJHB8R8/ There's a lot of options available on amazon and the prices are all over the place. There is a small price premium on uncommon cables which is why a company like Startech exists. You can also look on Monoprice. They don't have quite as many hard to find cables but their prices are rock bottom for common cables like the 3.5mm male to male.
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May 16, 2015 23:38
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beedeebee posted:Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but my dad wants to buy some sort of IP camera (for outdoor use) so he can check on the house while nobody is home. He asked me for suggestions, but I know gently caress all about that. I looked around and didn't find any threads. Basically, can someone recommend a good (nothing professional) outdoor camera? If you've got archive there's an ask/tell about security cameras and installs by a guy who works in that industry: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3547030 Don't buy the cheapo chinese one we were taking apart but there are some other recommendations in the thread. Alternatively shop on amazon by ratings.
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Jun 1, 2015 19:51
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Green Puddin posted:Would my i5 4590 bottleneck a 980 ti? I'm considering getting one to replace my 970, current card can't seem to handle 2560 x 1600 in games No it should be fine. There aren't many faster CPUs.
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Jun 2, 2015 03:07
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Etrips posted:What am I looking for if I want to build some type of central storage server that I can hook my TV up to and watch whatever? Am I looking at basically building another rig with a bunch of HDDs and somehow hooking a TV to it? In general you use a NAS for data storage and a small appliance to send stuff to the TV. You could combine the functions but there's a lot of set top boxes that do streaming now and are very cheap. You may want to check out these threads: Packrats unite! The consumer NAS/storage megathread ...and there's more than one way to do streaming (I stream to a Raspberry Pi running OpenELEC) but if you want a packaged solution that can handle a lot of HDMI sticks and set top boxes and mobile devices there's also a Plex thread, which is a server that will stream to almost any kind of device and transcode to support it if you have enough CPU: Plex Megathread: It's like Netflix, but with your own media!
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Jun 6, 2015 06:39
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SplitSoul posted:Security Essentials isn't picking up anything. Yeah security essentials isn't going to catch potentially unwanted programs (pup) or a lot of malware in general. It mostly stops the old school viruses you'd get by copying floppies or whatever. It's good at that but most basic antivirus is completely useless for stopping malware unless it's a bloated "internet security" edition. Run Malwarebytes anti-malware and if it doesn't find it try adwcleaner. If it's in deeper than that then you'll want to try to identify it and find a solution on bleepingcomputer or something like that. I read that utorrent includes a bitcoin miner so maybe it's that?
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Jun 11, 2015 00:10
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SplitSoul posted:Thanks for the help, MalwareBytes caught three miners and a trojan going at it. Malwarebytes may not successfully get rid of all of them so be prepared to run the full gamut on your system if they don't go away. The last client I had with a machine full of malware that was worse than a malwarebytes scan required VIPRE Rescue boot disk, ClamWinPortable, tdsskiller, rkill, adwcleaner and probably some other poo poo I can't remember to get it totally clean. After I got the malware off some system files were corrupt and I noticed the hard disk was failing so it ended up being the least of his issues. If the system remains clean after malwarebytes then all that is unnecessary, though. It catches most stuff which is why it's recommended first. You might want to try another torrent program like deluge or transmission that doesn't install malware, too. They get updates and don't try to trick you into mining bitcoins for them.
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Jun 11, 2015 06:22
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Rageaholic Monkey posted:Question: In my computer, I have a 500GB SSD (my C drive), which has my OS and my programs/games, and a 2TB 7200RPM HDD (my D drive), which has all my music and downloads and recorded TV shows and stuff. This afternoon when I got home from work, I used it just fine for about an hour. I was able to access some music on my D drive with no problem. Hard drives can just up and die. Hopefully it's still under warranty. Does CrystalDiskInfo see the disk now at all? Does it make the click of death when it has power?
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Jun 24, 2015 06:21
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Rageaholic Monkey posted:It doesn't show up at all in CDI now. CDI just shows my SSD, which is still in good condition. And I don't think it's made any clicking sound. That does suck but that's why IT people talk about backups backups backups and never keeping anything in only one place that you can't afford to lose. With platter hard disks there's a high chance of failure in the first few months (DOA or soon after first use problems), then it's a steady 5% or less a year, then after 5 years it starts going up (roughly remembering some google data). Does it spin up at all when hooked to power? I mean you probably just have to RMA it but that is pretty sudden, usually you get some indicators of HD death.
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Jun 24, 2015 08:05
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Tagra posted:I think the power button on my case might have a loose wire. I had a scare when it wouldn't start after a power outage, but wiggling the wire under the button got it going again. I'm not good with electricity things and now I'm scared It depends a lot on your case but in general if the button is faulty it will require desoldering the switch and soldering in a new one, or getting a replacement for the front panel part that has the switch (and usually an LED or two) from the manufacturer. All that switch does is connect 2 pins on the motherboard temporarily so it is something that can be worked around, but don't mess with it if you don't feel confident doing so If your system was purchased recently you can contact the manufacturer or the manufacturer of the case to get a replacement. If not you may still be able to get a replacement part. Do you know anyone who's handy with computers or does electronics stuff as a hobby? Determining how hard it is to replace the switch should be pretty easy but it's hard to do over the internet.
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Jun 24, 2015 23:36
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is it likely to require replacing the whole button, or hardcore soldering or something, or is this pretty common and I just have to pinch some wires around a connector?
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Heavy Lobster posted:I'm moving to a new place soon and would really rather get a new modem instead of paying an extra monthly fee to rent a terrible one from Comcast - what's a decent modem in the 50 dollarish range? Additionally, should I get a router as well even though it's just a small apartment and it'd end up sitting next to the modem? The home network thread is too focused on big picture/project stuff for me to suss out an answer for this. Motorola/Arris SB6121, 6141, 6183 are the ones to get. Look at your service level to see what to buy: http://mydeviceinfo.comcast.net/ For example if you want a really high bandwidth service (300 megabits) you'll need the 6183 to make it happen. For their 4/24 package which is what I had when I used to use comcast the Sb6121 was fantastic.
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Jul 9, 2015 08:35
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ufarn posted:Need to connect an SSD via USB to a laptop. What’s a decent enclosure connector thingy? Might need one for a mechanical HDD as well. If you are only using 2.5" laptop drives (SSDs are this size) then you can use something like this that's powered by the USB connector: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ If you're connecting 3.5" hard drives you will need more power which requires a unit with an AC adapter. This one can work with or without the power adapter depending on what kind of drive you're working with: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005B3VO24/ I own the second one and it's worked well for me. edit: and if you want an enclosure that covers the drive you can pick pretty much any one on amazon with good reviews. You'll probably have to buy a 3.5" one if you're working with both kinds of drives. You could also get a SATA dock that you can pop disks into and eject them from like this, but it's bigger than the previous kinds I linked: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1O43CS/ Rexxed fucked around with this message at 08:30 on Jul 10, 2015 |
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Jul 10, 2015 08:27
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GruntyThrst posted:Here's a fun question for you: what are the little black plastic adaptors that hold the wires coming from the power button/LED/etc. that plug into the pins on the motherboard called? I have to buy one because my old one doesn't fit this new motherboard and I don't feel comfortable just plugging them directly to the board because that seems like a good way to short something out. I'm not sure if it's the exact term for the computer guts ones, but they're basically the same as jumper wires for electronics. Here's a pack with way more than you'd need of M to M, M to F, and F to F: http://www.amazon.com/Kalevel%C2%AE-120pcs-Multicolored-Female-Breadboard/dp/B00M5WLZDW/ You can probably get smaller quantities now that you know what you're looking for.
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Jul 12, 2015 09:05
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teagone posted:Thanks to Tapedump I decided to open up CDI on my Plex server since its been a while, and lo and behold I got a caution warning on my Windows drive. Should I be worried? I'd be a little concerned. Is the drive having issues? Also 0x45 g-sensor warnings, stop kicking it while it's running! These things may be related but it could also be having age related issues. Personally I'd RMA it or buy a new disk asap, but it may yet continue to live for a while.
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Jul 15, 2015 12:14
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SlayVus posted:I got a co-worker with a hard drive in his PC that has reallocated sectors. I was going to suggest that he pick up a new hard drive or even a 250GB SSD. Suggestions on how to direct him? Samsung 850 EVO or Intel 530 or 730 SSD (whichever it cheapest, probably the 850). If he needs a HD, WD Blue for 1TB or less, WD Red or HGST or Toshiba for 2TB or more.
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Jul 29, 2015 05:42
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