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cisco privilege posted:Probably have better luck checking in IYG: pr0k posted:What's a good model and price point for a used ipad? For kids playing games and wife doing recipes. Kids already have kindles, so wife probably primary user. Reading craigslist and amazon the prices seem all over the place. First-gens are still like $300 used? Really? Also I wifi only is fine/preferred. Do I need a 2 or 3 or "air" whatever that is (4?) or would a first gen handle basic web browsing and the reflex math app? Don't, under any circumstances, buy a first - gen iPad. They're stuck on some ridiculously ancient iOS version (5?) because Apple hamstrung the drat thing with 256mb of RAM. This results in many apps not being able to run, constant browser crashes and other fuckery. My GF and my parents each have one and it's too bad about the RAM, 'cause otherwise they still look/work great. A second- gen example is a decent purchase on the used market, but I wouldn't pay more than about $250 for one, and it would have to be a cream puff to be worth even that much.
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Oct 15, 2014 00:58
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DNova posted:I have some experience with extremely lovely USB to SATA/PATA bridges, and this sounds like exactly that to me. Same here. I'd buy another enclosure before condemning the hard drives.
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Nov 27, 2014 01:18
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Oops, never mind.
JnnyThndrs fucked around with this message at 06:25 on Nov 29, 2014 |
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Nov 29, 2014 06:22
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dog nougat posted:I need a recommendation for a preferably free program that'll allow me to migrate the files to my Windows drive. I use TransMac, it's a bit primitive, but it does what you're looking for. It's not free, but there's a 15-day full-featured trial available for download. www.acutesystems.com
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Feb 23, 2015 06:17
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Comic posted:Need to buy an enclosure for a hard drive from a laptop that can't boot anymore, due to bluescreening during windows restore when I try to fix it. Yadda yadda I want my files. Both of them should be fine, the first one might be worth the extra few dollars if you fool around with HD's in general - I keep one sitting on my tower and it's crazy-convenient to plop a hard drive in it and copy files/image/back up.
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Jun 13, 2015 03:34
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McGlockenshire posted:There are also things like this IDE-to-mSATA adapter, which would allow you to use any standard mSATA drive instead. Just don't expect actual SSD / flash transfer speeds out of things like this. The IDE interface itself is going to be a bottleneck. That's the way I did it on my old Dell laptop - got a 240 gig mSATA 840 Pro and an adaptor, then made a 160 gig partition and left the rest free space. It works really well - compared to the old 4200rpm 40gig drive, it's rocketship fast, even considering the IDE bottleneck. Btw, I use this laptop for some serial port hardware that doesn't like USB adapters - that's why I did it.
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Jul 4, 2015 02:43
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Yeah, just use a regular USB AC adaptor, like the kind you charge cell phones with. The problem with enclosures is that the USB 2.0 standard limits power to 500ma, which isn't -quite- enough to run some hard drives, so most of them double up on USB plugs. That said, many times I've been able to run an external on one port, and SSD's take less power than HD's, so you might be able to just use the one plug.
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Dec 3, 2015 04:08
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50hz posted:This is probably a dumb question but I'm going to ask it anyway because I don't have experience with Memtest. Your RAM has gone to the great silicon wafer in the sky, time for some new stuff. Last time I ran Memtest, I had exactly 0 errors, and I ran it four times.
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Dec 8, 2015 03:48
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Moola posted:Ok cheers I'll take your word for it Those Nvidia chipsets had a high failure rate after a few years, probably due to their high operating temperature, so that dinky little fan might be the only reason it's still alive and kicking. I put one on my NAS box's chipset because under heavy gig-E file transfers it would get scorching hot and lose the NIC until a reboot. It's been working fine since.
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Dec 11, 2015 03:13
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Davoren posted:Can anyone recommend an adapter to turn an old ide drive into an external? I had one ages ago that had an unreliable power supply, and all the ones I'm looking at now have reviews that make the power supplies sound downright dangerous. I have run one of these for years 24/7 on my WHS box as a backup device, and it's both very well made and seems to have a beefy power supply with good quality cabling. It's not cheap, though. Vantec NexStar 3 3.5" IDE to USB 2.0 External Hard Drive Enclosure (Midnight Blue) - Model NST-360U2-BL http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=17-145-132
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Feb 5, 2016 00:49
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Breetai posted:Now that's something I've never seen before. Hmm. The building is fairly old and I'm not sure as to the quality of the wiring - would that have an effect? My house is old with OG wiring. well as being lath-n-plaster, so it's like a worst-case scenario for non-wired network speed. Anything that's not-line-of-sight has terrible and unreliable throughput, no matter whether it's G, N, or AC. Powerline adapters work reliably even with the old wiring, but the speed ends up much lower than the rating. The 300Mb/sec setup I have will run -stably- at about 20Mb/sec, which is enough for my HTPC to to pull compressed files from my NAS and give me HD video-watching ability that doesn't flake out.
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Mar 2, 2016 15:56
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Femtosecond posted:Why is my PC so drat loud? In addition to what others have said, I usually open the case and set it next to me while doing my usual work/play-load, in order to specifically ID which fan is bugging me. Sometimes you end up screwing around with the HS fan and it ends up being a GPU or case fan that's making the worst racket.
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Apr 2, 2016 22:44
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Haledjian posted:Is this normal behavior for a CPU fan on startup? (the stop/start) Yep, the more modern Intel mobo/processors have done this for awhile.
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Apr 3, 2016 10:10
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I would think a 600watt PS would have plenty of headroom when paired with a 970 and 4690K. Doesn't that combo draw ~450watts max?
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Apr 20, 2016 14:39
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Geoj posted:Your case uses a 140x25mm rear fan. While not the most common fan size it is readily available from sites like Newegg or Amazon, or if you have a Microcenter store near you they carry several in that size. Fry's has 'em too, if he's near one.
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Apr 24, 2016 19:42
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Rookoo posted:Does a CPU become less able to overclock with age, or is it just determined by chance? There are a lot of variables - mobo is a big one, a lot of it is pure luck, and some generations of CPU's just don't overclock as well as others. Running a CPU overclocked and overvolted can eventually lead to electromigration that can lower the ability of the chip to overclock, but mild overclocks that don't require voltage bumps generally don't hurt the chip. My experience is that the 2500K overclocked much more easily than the 3570K, but a fair number of Ivy i5's did OK as well. I got 4.4 on my 2500K with just a tiny voltage bump(.05v), while my 3570K needed .1v and only got to 4.3. I've seen posts on this forum by folks that couldn't get past 4.0 stable, so it's not called 'the silicon lottery' for nothing.
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May 30, 2016 01:04
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goodness posted:My Ethernet stopped working randomly and here is where I'm at/what I've done: First thing I'd do is boot from a Linux CD/DVD and see if you get Internet. If you do, Windows has hosed itself and you may need to reinstall, systemfilecheck, and/or go back to an earlier time with System Restore. If it's hosed under Linux, get a PCI or USB network adaptor and turn off your Realtek one in the BIOS.
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Jul 9, 2016 17:38
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A lot of depends on how terrible your motherboard sound design is. Some mobos are pretty good and adding a discrete sound card is barely/unnoticeable, others suck rear end and even a non-audiophile can hear the difference. I run an old SB X-fi Platinum because I use all the I/O's, but I can't hear much difference between it and the onboard Realtek. However, on my old P67 ASUS board, there was a big difference in sound, the onboard(also Realtek) had hum and hiss under certain workloads.
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Jul 22, 2016 02:01
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codo27 posted:I know the answer to this already but hoping someone can pull some magic answer out of their rear end. Cousin's hard drive is on the fritz, says at one point he managed to get it up and start dragging files but it stopped, I plugged it into the hot swap port on top of my tower and eventually a couple drives appeared but are inaccessible, telling me to scan them. Said restart PC to fix errors, restart hangs forever if I dont unplug it, same thing happened on his computer. Worst of all, hearing clicks in it. Actually worst of all, has important photos on the drive but I guess they are all down the drain now. Anything I might try to see if I can recover any of it? I did have a drive exactly like it, same size and all a while back that I was able to recover most of the data but I dont think it had the dreaded click of death. Try freezing it. I've had a couple of dying, clicking, hard drives that I was able to pull data off of after an overnight stay in the freezer. I put 'em in plastic bags to minimize condensation.
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Jul 23, 2016 22:20
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I'd try plugging a machine directly into your cable/DSL modem and see if your high-ping problems persist.* The age of the router shouldn't really matter for gaming - until recently, I used an ancient WRT-54G router from like 2001 and it didn't seem to hinder my ping at all, the only thing I noticed is that multiple torrents would bog the poor thing down and eventually it would freeze and need a reboot. *make sure you're firewalled properly and don't do this anymore than you have to, plugging a desktop directly into the 'net is a security no-no.
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Oct 23, 2016 21:40
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Alereon posted:The issue is that throughput is extremely poor on old routers. This means that gaming itself is fine, but you won't be able to use the server browser or download resources with any reasonable speed because the router will poo poo itself. If you have a 100mbps+ Internet connection it really makes a lot of sense to have a decent Wireless-AC router so you're not bottlenecking your performance at your router. Yeah, I really noticed the improvement in server browsing speed when I went to the new router.
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Oct 23, 2016 22:13
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Chuu posted:What I'm specifically trying to do is prevent a surge on a powerline adapter for wrecking havok. I assume I cannot just plug a powerline adapter into my surge protector have have it work. If that is false -- please let me know. Yeah, power line adapters won't work if plugged into surge protectors - I've tried.
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Nov 25, 2016 16:59
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I thought the extra pins in USB3.0 made it so you -have- to use the normal thick connectors?
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Nov 25, 2016 17:35
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I don't know about him, but I've had good luck using SATA III RAID cards but not in SATA mode for my NAS. Marvell chipsets seemed to be better than Jmicron or Asmedia, but my testing was quick-n-dirty(ATTO and Crystaldisk).
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Dec 9, 2016 14:07
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apropos man posted:Does anyone else place the CPU into the socket and then give it a little 1mm lateral wiggle to make sure it's seated before closing the clasp? Nope, I'm a wiggler as well, although I don't think there's 1mm of slop in the socket, maybe .5mm. Crossing my fingers, but I've never hosed up an LGA socket yet.
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Jan 18, 2017 14:26
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Stabbey_the_Clown posted:Is it possible to delete the old applications partition, then expand the windows partition so it occupies the whole disk? I'm not sure that's something I can safely do using Windows Disk Manager while Windows is running, so do I need to use a bootable partition manager to do that? Yeah, you can do that with Disk Manager while Windows is running, I've done it several times myself. I'd make sure I had a backup if the Windows partition had something critical on it, in case of a power/hardware failure in the middle of the operation.
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Feb 2, 2017 03:21
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I had it work once, it allowed me to pull about 200gig off of a Seagate 500gb HD. I'm guessing a controller chip was bad and the drive would just...disappear(from the bios) after it was running for awhile. No scary noises or clicks-of-death, just nothing. Freezing allowed me enough time to pull the data off if it before it heated up and crapped out. I now have a triple-redundancy backup system, I learned my lesson with that escapade.
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Apr 29, 2017 02:16
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Modern powerline adaptors work pretty well compared to how lovely they were when they first came out. After loving around endlessly with wifi bands, routers and external antennas, I picked up a couple powerline adaptors for $60 and even with lovely old-house wiring I get ~50mb/sec. Which doesn't sound great, but it's a rock-solid connection - no hiccups, dropped connections or speed variances. gently caress trying to use wifi in old lathe-n-plaster homes unless you have line-of-sight.
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May 5, 2017 04:02
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That sort of thing went out of style because today's cpus aren't really much faster than they were in 2011, but the motherboard features are significantly enhanced. If you were somehow able to put a 7600K into, say, a P67 board, you'd only gain about 25% more CPU grunt, at max. But you wouldn't have DD4, native USB3, m2 slots, pci-e gen 3, or all 6 SATA ports running at SATA III speeds.
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May 5, 2017 06:01
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AFAIK, the batteries in all UPS's are all technically lead-acid, but they use a glass-mat design and don't have actual liquid electrolyte sloshing around - that's why the batteries can be mounted sideways and whatnot. You shouldn't ever smell any hydrogen sulfide smell with a glass mat battery, the electrolyte is held in the mat sort of like the way juice is held in an orange - in a zillion tiny compartments. Part of my job involves disassembling ancient decommissioned UPS's and sending the actual batteries to a battery recycling place along with our other auto/truck/forklift batteries. I've dealt with huge UPS's so hosed up that twenty or thirty batteries will be swelled up to the point where they're impossible to remove except to pound crowbars through the plastic cases and pry the broken batteries out, and the shattered cells -still- don't leak any electrolyte out or have any smell. If end users are smelling hydrogen sulfide gas, there's serious issues somewhere.
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Jun 17, 2017 19:49
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Powerline adaptors used to suck hard, but I've had good experiences with newer ones, even over old house wiring. I'm currently using TP-Link 500mb/s rated adaptors, and getting about 8MB/sec, so around 1/6th the theoretical throughput, but it's rock-solid in terms of stability and packet loss. I just took 'em out of the box, plugged 'em in, and haven't touched them in two years. Edit: Fishmech, it really depends if he's in an old house or not. If the walls are lath and plaster, wifi(any type) absolutely sucks if it's not LoS. JnnyThndrs fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Aug 6, 2017 |
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Aug 6, 2017 20:34
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Yeah, the only thing that ever worked exceptionally well for me to digitize VHS tapes was a Pinnacle FireWire breakout box, but it was like 150$ The cheap USB ones are tolerable if you don't have a zillion hours of tape to digitize.
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Nov 5, 2017 21:49
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TheGreasyStrangler posted:This reminds me that modular desktop PSUs have a lovely design attribute where the cables are often physically interchangeable between brands, but the pins are connected differently. Lots of stories of people frying all their equipment because they bought a new PSU and thought they could swap it in without replacing the cables. I almost did this on my last build, thank Christ at the last minute I said to myself ‘I’d better test this’ and pulled out my old DVOM. I’d bought a used PS off of SA-Mart and it didn’t come with a couple of the modular cables, so I found some in my box-o-wires. Red_Fred posted:I just bought a new 2 Tb platter HDD to replace my ancient (7 years!) 1 Tb drive, my main drive is an SSD. What’s the easiest way to clone the old drive onto the new drive? Ideally it would just appear as if it was the old drive but with the extra space. Macrium Reflect Free works well and is easy to use.
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Feb 8, 2018 03:46
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To run that processor(which is an Ivy Bridge E) you need an X79 motherboard, and those are either *very* expensive used, or made new by no-name Chinese companies with dubious engineering and sold on eBay. I’d probably pass on it myself, it’s only four cores so you could build a new Ryzen or i3 system that would be much faster, use less power and be compatible with the latest technology for the same cost as a used decent-quality motherboard.
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Sep 20, 2018 16:33
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I’ve found that theoretically you should be able to attach a 2.5” pocket-size external HD to every USB port without issue, but under RL conditions it can get really dicey after two of them unless you use a powered hub. This varies, of course, dependent on motherboard, laptop/desktop, etc. Also, USB3 has a higher rated wattage output and seems much more reliable than USB2 in term of providing enough power without weird glitches.
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Sep 22, 2018 19:35
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For the relatively low cost of a UPS that’s suitable to run my NAS, it seems like a no-brainer - shuts my unit off gracefully, tells me how many watts I’m using, does power conditioning and surge protection for $120? I’m in. I’ve used one for like eight years, replaced the batteries twice, and it’s kept my NAS up during quick power transients innumerable times.
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Nov 13, 2018 13:49
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Lambert posted:Powerline is really terrible; I'd only use it as a last resort, when WiFi isn't any better. The older stuff was generally pretty bad, but the newer gig adaptors work much better. I had to use them in my house because it’s old and the walls are lathe-n-plaster, and they work pretty well, even using the old house wiring. Speed is only about 25% of the advertised maximum, but the connection is rock-solid as far as reliability goes., and 25% of 1200mb/s is still fine.
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Mar 27, 2019 15:00
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Anonymous Robot posted:This is perfect, thank you! No, I use usb hubs plugged into KVM’s in several setups. Just make sure you use a powered hub if you’re using several power-hungry USB components.
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Dec 21, 2019 14:56
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Appropriate to this thread, I just had to send back an old 3960X chip I bought on fleabay for being DOA, it wouldn’t boot on either of my two X79 motherboards. I’m pretty sure it was the first bad processor I’ve ever run into in 20+ years of system building.
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Jan 2, 2020 13:34
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I have a question that perhaps this thread can answer - I’m updating a couple of my Hacks to High Sierra and am wondering what the best used video card is in terms of compatibility. I have been using Nvidia, but since the web drivers aren’t being refreshed anymore(and they always seem a bit janky), I’m looking at AMD. I’d like to spend about $100-$150 for each card, and my primary objective is to keep the install as vanilla as possible, with OOB compatibility being preferred. I’ve been looking at RX480/580 8gb cards - are there any particular models that have issues or any models THAT JUST WORK? Or should I be looking at a different card? Any advice is appreciated.
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Feb 1, 2020 18:17
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