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I have an old PC (HPZ600 Workstation, 1st generation Nehalem processor) that I want to add more storage to. Some questions: 1. How do I know if it's subject to the 2.2TB limit? It's a SATA-II chipset if that's a big clue. 2. If it's subject to to the 2.2TB limit, will there be any issues installing larger drives other than some of it is inaccessible? 3. If it's subject to the 2.2TB limit, can I get around this by using a 3rd party controller? Thanks in advance.
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# ¿ Oct 12, 2014 12:02 |
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# ¿ May 3, 2024 19:36 |
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edit : Ignore this question, moving it to the Overclocking thread.
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# ¿ Oct 30, 2014 07:10 |
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Thinking about buying an Intel Phi to play around with while the $199 developer promo is still around. The problem is I have no idea how to cool them in a standard PC case. They look like this: They are basically a giant shroud around a setup that looks an awfully like a video card. Just like a video card, they have to be actively cooled, but they don't integrate a blower and rely on server integrators to handle cooling. It's a 225W TDP for reference. How would I go about cooling this in a standard PC case?
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# ¿ Nov 5, 2014 08:30 |
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Geoj posted:I don't even know how OEMs would go about cooling that, the typical off the shelf server uses a single large fan pulling air through a plastic baffle that forces airflow through the CPU heatsink and over other critical components. Maybe remove the shroud and attach/point a fan to/at its heatsink? I think it's pretty much this. Supermicro has some chassis that they recommend for the Phi that have arrays of fans pointing directly at the card. Best picture I could find of that sort of setup was this. Intel does make an actively cooled version of the card with a blower, and not surprisingly that is the version I see in the huge majority of pictures. Why they chose to give the passively cooled version to devs to play around with is a mystery.
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# ¿ Nov 6, 2014 02:07 |
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I'm in need of a new ADSL modem. The most popular (by newegg rank) appears to be the TP TD-8616. Any reason not to buy this one? Any danger is snagging a cheap used one on eBay?
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# ¿ Nov 20, 2014 02:39 |
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Is there an adapter that can convert those 4-tip 3.5" Headphone Connectors to two 3.5" Connectors -- one for audio out and one for microphone in? I can't figure out the right search terms to make this happen, or if there is some technical reason this is not possible.
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# ¿ May 16, 2015 22:16 |
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Geemer posted:You'll want to search for combo jack adapters. Thanks, this is getting me a ton closer, but I'm still having problems. Pretty much every hit I get is going the opposite way -- Mic + Headphone to Combo Jack. I'm looking for the opposite. Does what I'm looking for exist, or do I just buy one of those and two 3.5mm male to male cables?
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# ¿ May 16, 2015 23:11 |
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4 Pole Female to 2x 3.5 3 Pole Male is what I was looking for. Thanks for the link.
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# ¿ May 17, 2015 01:25 |
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Does anyone in here have experience with PATA SSDs? I have a (very) old laptop with a great keyboard and screen that I would love to keep around if I could get some more performance out of it. I can find benchmarks for Transend and MyDigitalSSD which suggest they are fast SSDs, but I'm scared a lot of the off-brand stuff on Amazon (example) might just be Compact Flash adapters connected to cheap cards and thus much worse than a spinning disk. Plus I have no idea how reliable these are -- not in terms of cycles but in terms of "will the firmware crap out and destroy all my data"? Also kind of curious what the performance of stuff like this (Western Digital CF designed for use as an ATA drive) is. Chuu fucked around with this message at 05:23 on Jul 3, 2015 |
# ¿ Jul 3, 2015 05:16 |
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McGlockenshire posted:There are also things like this IDE-to-mSATA adapter, which would allow you to use any standard mSATA drive instead. Just don't expect actual SSD / flash transfer speeds out of things like this. The IDE interface itself is going to be a bottleneck. Would this enable TRIM if the drive and OS support it? Thanks for the responses. I'm in it for the Random I/O for things like compiling software, and don't expect to get anywhere near a SATA SSD performance.
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# ¿ Jul 3, 2015 20:39 |
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Looking for a used laptop. Is a HD 6470M discreet card enough of a selling point over HD3000 graphics that it's worth paying ~$30 extra for? Will this effect battery life if you're not gaming? Also, tons of T410/420's and Elitebook 84xxP laptops in the price range I'm looking for (~$300, Sandybridge Core i5 or better, 1600x900 or better). They're spec'd and priced the same mostly. Any preference between the two? Also looking for a good place to hunt for refurb laptops besides newegg. Chuu fucked around with this message at 09:51 on Jul 23, 2015 |
# ¿ Jul 23, 2015 09:30 |
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Are Optimus drivers laptop-specific? If you have an Optimus equipped laptop, do you have to use the vendor provided gpu drivers or can you use the ones on nVidia's site?
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# ¿ Jul 29, 2015 17:48 |
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Nintendo Kid posted:All I can tell you is how its been on the Dells I've used with Optimus, and for both of them usign the nVidia site drivers worked just fine. Some other manufacturers may mess with things more. Just to clarify (keep in mind this is for a laptop I plan on buying -- not one I currently have -- so I can't check anything): I searched nVidia's site for Optimus drivers and didn't find any -- but was able to find drivers for the mobile GPU chip. What I assumed this meant was that Optimus was laptop-specific, and if Optimus was laptop specific, I thought that the Video Card drivers might be too. Are you saying that there are "generic" Optimus drivers somewhere on nVidia's site that I missed -- or that you have to use the vendor-specific Optimus driver but can pair it with any released version of nVidia's video card drivers?
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# ¿ Jul 31, 2015 00:29 |
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Is M.2 really just PCI-E? If so, let's say I have a laptop with a mPCIE slot that can take mSATA SSDs, but it's limited to SATA II. If I buy a M.2 drive, and use a M.2 to mPCIE adapter -- will I be able to use it at full speed? What are the odds I can boot from it?
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# ¿ Aug 1, 2015 05:23 |
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I am trying to find a specific LCD panel for a laptop (B156HW01 V4) that's pretty rare. Is there a keyword on Ali Express that sellers use if it's an exact match? Every seller so far, even if the picture is of a B156HW01 V4, has "or compatible" or "B156HW01 V4 Replacement" somewhere in the text which tells me I'm going to get one of the cheap replacements (probably the V7 which is glossy, or the LG panel that's matte but not 95% gamut) -- or no mention of quality which makes me suspect dead pixels.
Chuu fucked around with this message at 06:45 on Aug 25, 2015 |
# ¿ Aug 25, 2015 06:43 |
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When using "Logitech Gaming Software" with a gaming mouse (G502), what should "pointer speed" and "enhance pointer precision" be set to in windows for optimal result? I'm guessing (please correct me if I'm wrong) you want windows to be 1:1 and control "speed" via DPI settings on the mouse itself -- but no clue what corresponds to 1:1. Chuu fucked around with this message at 21:04 on Dec 25, 2015 |
# ¿ Dec 25, 2015 20:59 |
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Just want to confirm, in Windows 10 if you set up a mirrored drive formatted with ReFS, you get read patrolling/bit rot protection for free.
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# ¿ Jan 20, 2016 06:19 |
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How reliable is KLEVV memory? If my research is right they're SK Hynix's house brand so they should be up with there with Crucial in quality, but their price suggests otherwise.
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# ¿ Mar 8, 2016 08:04 |
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I can't remember what lawsuit, but a long time ago there was a lawsuit against Creative Labs where part of the evidence were emails between the execs bragging about how they were pretty much selling the exact same technology for 10 years. Now we're in a world where it makes no sense for anyone who cares about audio to have their DAC integrate with their PC, but people still feel the need to shell out big money for sound cards. How the heck does Soundbaster keep surviving? Their marketing department must be run by Satan himself. Chuu fucked around with this message at 06:59 on Mar 9, 2016 |
# ¿ Mar 9, 2016 06:56 |
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Speaking of pure evil marketing . . .Alereon posted:KLEVV is a low-end brand that is not related to SK Hynix. They implied otherwise when they launched and SK Hynix put out press releases denying any relationship. That's really shocking, but given how disparate the pricing I guess somewhat expected. Any chance you can dig up a link to the press release? I am having trouble finding literally any article that puts a wall between the two companies.
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# ¿ Mar 9, 2016 06:58 |
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You'd think that important of an addendum would be at the top of the page instead of the bottom. Thanks for the link.
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# ¿ Mar 9, 2016 17:25 |
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Here is a link to a product that basically lets you connect a banana plug directly to a wall socket for ESD grounding, and a tester to make sure the outlet is safe to use in that way : link. Is there a cheaper version of this? The plug only sells for $25 and I imagine it's literally just molded plastic over a single metal piece that connects ground to the plug, hugely overpriced. Anyone know exactly what the tester does? Is it literally just testing the voltage between ground and live pins? It also is probably severely overpriced. Or is this one of those things you just suck up and pay the $50 for if you need it? Chuu fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Mar 12, 2016 |
# ¿ Mar 12, 2016 23:16 |
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I am having a shockingly hard time finding the answer to this simple question: In Windows 10, if you have a mirrored storage space with 2 drives or a parity storage space with 3 drives, are integrity streams enabled FOR FILE DATA? I've found sources that say yes, some that say no (i.e. it's only enabled for metadata), and absolutely nothing on MSDN that can't be interpreted either way.
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# ¿ Apr 13, 2016 23:26 |
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What's are some good options for monitor arms? I currently have the monoprice one, and it's decent (but does sag over time), but I am really looking for one that is completely adjustable without tightening/loosing any bolts. Considering how long a monitor lasts, I have no problem dropping up to $150-$200 on a good one. But if you can get 90% of the performance for half the price, I'd like to know as well.
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# ¿ May 12, 2016 01:31 |
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Zaq posted:My ancient crappy headset with mic has finally started to fall apart and I need to get a new mic. I use a very expensive set of headphones and needed a mic for similar reasons. I just use a cable clip-on mic and it works great. Example: http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ
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# ¿ May 16, 2016 09:11 |
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How stable are factory overclocked 1080s for compute? I am thinking of picking up a STRYX or FTW for gaming first and compute second. Are these like some overclocked CPUs that are stable enough for games but choke under things like IBT; or should they be perfectly fine for compute as well?
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# ¿ Jun 23, 2016 04:01 |
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How much more power to factory overclocked video cards draw at idle? Specifically the ASUS factory overclocked 1080, which I am having real trouble finding power specs for other than "draws up to 300W". Also, any idea how much more this card will draw at load?
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# ¿ Jun 30, 2016 06:28 |
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I am looking for some sort of plate I can put between my desk and a monitor stand. My desk is made of very soft wood and the stand is damaging it from the concentrated force, I need to spread it out. I am looking for some sort of metal plate/shim I can put between it and the desk -- sort of like a giant washer. My google skills are utterly failing me. Anyone have better luck? Bonus points if I can pick it up at Home Depot. edit: Did a little more searching. Something like this or this would be perfect if it didn't have the holes; or this if it was shorter. edit2: This type of monitor stand: Chuu fucked around with this message at 07:57 on Nov 14, 2016 |
# ¿ Nov 14, 2016 05:18 |
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apropos man posted:Maybe if you used two plates and a G-clamp this would widen your options. Then there's less consideration about The plan was 2 plates, one above and one below, and not having them affixed -- the pressure of the clamp from the monitor mount should be enough to keep it in place. To be clear, I'm talking about a monitor stand like this: Chuu fucked around with this message at 07:55 on Nov 14, 2016 |
# ¿ Nov 14, 2016 07:52 |
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apropos man posted:That's a pretty small clamp compared to the rest of the apparatus. Was it cheap? That's not my exact model, but I suspect it's the same manufacturer. It's from monoprice. It does its job well, just needs more support.
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# ¿ Nov 14, 2016 08:36 |
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Berated Tham posted:Earlier today, my roommate enthusiastically hugged me while I was carrying my Lenovo T430 laptop and some papers and a can of soda. As a result, I dropped my laptop and the top cover of the laptop is now cracked. I have attached a picture. I think it's pretty groovy that I can see the light of the turned-on laptop at the point on the top cover where the crack is largest. I'm going to add my voice to the people saying you should superglue/tape it, but you could pretty easily do this on the inside and make it very hard to notice. Thinkpads are made to be serviceable and you can get to the other side of that case by removing a couple screws (they're hidden under those black tabs on your bezel) and releasing the bezel which is held in by plastic tabs. The LCD "hinges" separately from the case so you don't have to worry about removing it. If you google that model (T420 it looks like?) and "LCD replacement" I'm betting you'll be able to find a video. edit: I'm basing this off of the W530 but it looks like the T420 internally is a little different. Can anyone confirm this? Chuu fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Nov 24, 2016 |
# ¿ Nov 24, 2016 01:38 |
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I have an ethernet surge protector which has a ground wire. It's very similar to this; I also have a tripplite isobar surge protector, which looks something like this: Can I use those screws between the outlets to ground the surge protector? If not, is there a proper ground somewhere on this surge protector I can use? EDIT: What I'm specifically trying to do is prevent a surge on a powerline adapter for wrecking havok. I assume I cannot just plug a powerline adapter into my surge protector have have it work. If that is false -- please let me know. Chuu fucked around with this message at 09:31 on Nov 25, 2016 |
# ¿ Nov 25, 2016 09:26 |
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I have a router (WRT-54G, flashed with dd-wrt) and a Zyxel DSL modem. If power goes out and comes back on at the socket; it's important the Modem comes up before the Router or the router will not work. As in, won't even route ethernet frames so I can't connect to the router and try to soft-reset it. From some quick googling, this is not an unknown issue. I am trying to find some way to "delay" the startup of the router after a power cycle. Is there some sort of hardware device I can use to do this? Is there some sort of software option in dd-wrt I am missing? (This is actually for my parent's setup. They're too old to craw under the desk to reset the router manually every time their power goes out. If worst comes to worse, just a nice switch connected between two standard NEMA plugs would be fine so I can at least put the "power button" on the desk. I don't want a full-on power strip for aesthetic reasons.)
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# ¿ Dec 6, 2016 12:14 |
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I never knew about the fire risks with those cheap adapter. Between all my PCs I have a ton of them in use. Is there a good article with pictures (as opposed to videos) that describes the problem? Are the adapters on monoprice ok replacements? I also have some olders adapters I use with fans and HSFs, which are molex to 3-pin or molex splitters. I assume these are all ok as long as I can clearly see each wire has is mechanically fastened directly to a pin? Chuu fucked around with this message at 08:06 on Dec 9, 2016 |
# ¿ Dec 9, 2016 08:01 |
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Looking for a good *wireless* mic just for Overwatch. Something I can clip onto my shirt of headphone cable. I'm willing to spend up to $50. I know the $7 Zalman headphone-cable clip-on mic solution exists, and have used it (and honestly probably will use it again). I am just willing to spend some money to be lazy and not have to deal with even more cables, and curious how good/cheap the tech is.
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# ¿ Dec 20, 2016 03:16 |
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Is there a way to "refresh" a hard drive or SSD that's been sitting unpowered for several years? Basically I just want to reset the clock on bit rot due to age desegregation.
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# ¿ Dec 26, 2016 23:03 |
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I bought a plug-in 12V power supply a while ago, one example (which I suspect is my exact one rebadged) is here. Tried plugging a fan into it today, nothing happened. Was shocked to find out that pin 3, which should be ground, is not grounded. In the wiring diagram on the back they do clearly show it's not part of the circuit -- so this isn't a manufacturing fault. Is this legal according to the spec? Why would they do this?
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# ¿ Jan 28, 2017 01:49 |
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What's the deal with these super cheap $150 Windows 10 laptops? Example here. Because of the huge warnings that your warranty is void if you try to wipe them, the Windows/Android split OS, and the warning that Linux won't work on these -- I feel like there has to be something strange/special going on with these at the hardware level but not sure what.
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# ¿ Apr 24, 2017 06:49 |
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Lungboy posted:Do modern motherboards ever come with ide sockets for old but still perfectly good hdds? No, but you buy a controller. Here's the first hit on google which my gut tells me is severely overpriced. I personally keep generic version of this IDE/SATA->USB adapter in my toolkit which has been invaluable.
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# ¿ Apr 24, 2017 08:10 |
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# ¿ May 3, 2024 19:36 |
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What would be more reliable for an external hard drive used for backups (i.e. powered off for extended periods of time; given how lazy I am; potentially years) -- one single 8TB 3.5" or two 4TB 2.5" disks? Both are Western Digital Passport drives, which I believe are the same drives as WD Blue.
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# ¿ May 13, 2017 03:53 |