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Maybe. What power supply do you have and how old is it?
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Mar 11, 2015 05:29
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Touchfuzzy posted:I was going to start looking for a nice webcam, and I figured I'd just ask here if anyone knows of a brand other than Logitech that makes a nice one.
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Mar 28, 2015 17:17
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Download the portable standard version w/o ads of CrystalDiskInfo and run it: http://crystalmark.info/download/index-e.html See if it shows the drive as bad or caution, which would mean you'll need a new drive. If the drive comes up clean you might have a bad stick of RAM or possibly a failing mainboard. Replacing RAM is doable if necessary, but a laptop mainboard failing means time to get a new laptop.
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Mar 31, 2015 20:57
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Hog Inspector posted:yikes, it says caution. Thanks for the link, looks like I'm getting a new drive.
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Apr 1, 2015 07:46
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Check the HDD on a windows PC with crystaldiskinfo (non anime portable version). It's probably dying.
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Apr 9, 2015 05:27
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peskyplumber posted:What's the risk associated with using an old PSU? Just not being able to power the components? I'm thinking about putting a GTX 970 into my 4-5 year old prebuilt until I can build a new PC later in the year and I don't want to risk damaging it somehow, even if the 970 uses less power than my current 260. Run display driver uninstaller to remove the old drivers then install the latest drivers for the new card. future ghost fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Apr 9, 2015 |
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Apr 9, 2015 20:01
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doctorfrog posted:My experience isn't as extensive, but I avoid Seagates for similar reasons. I have an 800MB 2.5" external drive from 2010, which ran like a dream for a couple years, then examining it with Crystal Disk Info revealed that it was slowly using up its Reallocated Sectors, and threw a yellow caution. I ran Seagate's test thing (quick and long tests) so I could return it, and it passes with flying colors. So I have to either use the drive until it's so bad it doesn't even pass Seagate's test (and under warranty), or relegate it to storing things I don't care about. I didn't bother with either.
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Apr 14, 2015 18:49
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Unless you want to be permanent life support for this machine and provide free tech support every time a component dies, and it will in time, tell your aunt that it's not worth fixing. Putting another P4 in it won't improve performance enough to be worth the effort, the caps in the PSU and motherboard are EOL, and newer versions of Windows won't support it. If you must give her examples, you may have to find 'replacement' parts for everything likely to die, and give her a price list. It'll probably end up more than a new PC costs on the Dell outlet, and even if it doesn't you do not want to be locked into fixing that piece of poo poo.
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Apr 19, 2015 23:01
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Tried a different monitor? This is probably a Haus question since it doesn't sound like there's a short easy-fix solution. You'd need to provide specific information on the parts in both PCs and a better description of what's going on and with which PC in particular, as right now it's not really clear if both PCs are having issues or possibly that you have two bad monitors and/or a bad videocard hooked up to one PC.
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Apr 25, 2015 16:52
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^^^ good idea. FaustianQ posted:I've got two issues 2) I'd suggest contacting Logitech support. Unless things have changed their service was always very good and they might be willing to fix the headset or replace it if it can't be repaired.
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May 14, 2015 17:34
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FaustianQ posted:Are the fans for HS mostly universal for laptops? I'm guessing the answer is no because laptop, which would suck because I can't find a HSF replacement for the nc8340. If a laptop's overheating, besides checking vents and the heatsink(s) for blockages I would replace the thermal paste on the CPU. Use something non-conductive like ceramique, MX-4, etc., and not AS5.
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May 15, 2015 18:04
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If it's not coil whine it could be one of the fans - the motors on Panoflo fans drive me up a wall depending on the voltage they're running. You could try stopping the fans by putting your finger on the hubs (only if they're not high-speed fan models), or you can pull the fan power connectors and see if it stops after that, in which can you might need to replace the fan(s) depending on how much it bothers you.
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May 16, 2015 17:05
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ElehemEare posted:Is there any downside to running 3x4 rather than 2x4 with regard to memory bandwidth?
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May 21, 2015 15:43
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Check your videocard's fan for dust as it's probably overheating given that the fan's revving up and you're seeing black screens. Depending on the videocard age you may have to reseat the cooler with new thermal paste since the cheap stock poo poo can turn rock-hard eventually. Black screens can also be caused by a bad power supply, and that might be the cause of your booting problem, but the fan sounds like videocard overheating.
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May 23, 2015 17:20
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Are you running furmark? If not then you're probably mining coins for some lucky botnet.
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Jun 10, 2015 23:38
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SplitSoul posted:Security Essentials isn't picking up anything. Edit: also the utorrent poo poo.
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Jun 11, 2015 00:12
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If it were true your SSDs/HDDs wouldn't function, among other things. False alarm.
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Jun 25, 2015 16:53
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Crotch Fruit posted:I have a Thermaltake TR2 RX 850W semi modular power supply and almost all of the cables are missing. I sent an e-mail to thermaltake's support earlier today and have not heard back yet (I will be impressed if they contact me). Google lead me to a Tom's Hardware thread where a user said that all modular power supply cables are cross compatible, is there any truth to this? Even so, thus far I am only finding $100 "individually sleeved" cable kits which kinda seem like bling to me, is there a real advantage to individually sleeved cables?
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Jun 30, 2015 04:52
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Crotch Fruit posted:I honestly don't know much at all about the Core 2 series or more modern Intel CPUs, is there a better chip I should look for to go with this board? https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/P5QPLAM/HelpDesk_CPU/ You might be able to find a e8400 for a little less and the performance difference isn't significant. If you need a quad for whatever reason and you'd be willing to overclock you could go with a Q6600. Any C2D/C2Q chip won't compare that well with a modern CPU though so I'd avoid spending too much money on the chip.
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Jun 30, 2015 20:17
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It's fine to copy files over to another drive and it won't corrupt the new drive. 1 uncorrectable sector does indicate that the drive's failing, but unless it's noisy or locking up it should last more than long enough to back everything up. For a single reported error you could probably get away with cloning it straight-out since the chance that it's something critical isn't that high, particularly if it's not hosting an OS.
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Jul 1, 2015 20:59
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I finally broke down and bought a 5341J for Comcast. The loaner SMC modem works fine at this low business tier but I'm tired of paying them for the privilege and it doesn't support ipv6 at all.
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Jul 9, 2015 23:38
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If you match up the board's headers from the manual to the case headers you can just match them easily without an adapter. Just pay attention to polarity for the HDD/activity LEDs. Power and reset button polarity generally doesn't matter.
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Jul 12, 2015 17:57
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That sounds fine - the top fans are going to be assisted by passive heat rising anyways so you probably don't need too much active support there.
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Aug 8, 2015 19:20
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You didn't leave the CPU heatsink attached when you moved, right? I killed a P4 system shipping it like that years back. Motherboard apparently flexed and that was it. I'd reseat the RAM, and then the CPU & heatsink with new thermal paste as suggested first, but the next thing I'd be looking at would be the motherboard. It's probably less of a concern if it's the stock heatsink rather than a tower-style heatsink though.
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Aug 21, 2015 18:49
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If you don't get a surfboard modem I can recommend a Zoom 5341J for an easy reliable device with Comcast. Haven't had any issues with mine so far and it was dead-simple to setup.Gzuz-Kriced posted:I tried to reset the bios by moving the "CLR RTC" jumpers for 10 seconds per the manual and removed the video card, but unfortunately it's still doing the same thing. I did put the jumpers back after I was done. As far as I know the bios reset but there's no way for me to see. Are you plugging the video cable into the onboard video connection or the videocard? Does it have more than one port on the videocard? Try both if so. Also, try unplugging and re-plugging the 12V 4-pin/8-pin cable on the motherboard. You can try running the board barebones on a non-conductive surface outside of the case as a last resort.
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Aug 21, 2015 21:31
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Kind of an old board on that. I'd try a new power supply, and it's possible the videocard is still good. The motherboard might be nearing the end of its life with a passive-cooled nforce chipset. Those always ran warm. I'd look at the PSU first though unless it was purchased recently.
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Aug 27, 2015 17:37
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It might just be the PSU, depending on the age & model #, but you should probably confirm that it's not overheating with a tool like HWiNFO before ruling it out. Alternatively I've seen sudden power-offs happen on a board with a misaligned PCI card. I'd verify that any PCI/PCI-E cards are inserted correctly and check that nothing fell behind the board like a loose screw.
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Sep 2, 2015 20:52
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FCKGW posted:Congrats, you're mining bitcoins for China Other than that it's possible the fan(s) on the card died which you could check while it's running, and the thermal material between the GPU and the card's heatsink might need to be replaced after 4 years.
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Sep 5, 2015 17:52
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Crotch Fruit posted:Thanks for the tip, 3D Mark 11 kept crashing out claiming it couldn't get exclusive access to the display and keyboard but the other benchmarks and my games have failed to crash this card. I think I'm doing something wrong, I simply find it hard to accept I got a functional GPU from craigslist.
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Oct 7, 2015 14:05
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Quality control on the Enermax Liberty models wasn't even that great when they were new. Time to replace it.
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Oct 22, 2015 21:48
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Are you shipping the desktop via car/truck? If so I'd at least make sure that any harddrives were locked in place, and I'd remove any really big cards such as GPUs and ship them separately. If you have a large aftermarket CPU cooler you should remove it before shipping. If this is a commercial shipping company you're using, I'd remove anything I could and ship them separately. Drives, cards, coolers, etc., take it all out of the box and ship it separately with antistatic bags and padding.
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Oct 27, 2015 21:24
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Honest Thief posted:I'm planning on using some service like MRW or DHL.
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Oct 28, 2015 18:54
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Honest Thief posted:But they're paid professionals... that poo poo ain't right
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Oct 29, 2015 18:57
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SlayVus posted:I already purchased a Seasonic Snow Silent 1050w unit.
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Nov 4, 2015 00:33
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MasterSlowPoke posted:While cleaning I found some old parts in the bottom of my closet:
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Nov 18, 2015 20:36
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FaustianQ posted:So I came into a handful of refurbished HDDs for extremely cheap, and am combing them over with CDI and trying to make heads or tails of whether they're any good or not. Reallocates Sector Count is 100 [Current], 100 [Worst] and 5 [Threshold] with a raw value of 1, exactly how hosed is this disk? I'm not sure how to read the data, but my understanding is that while something bad happened, as long as the threshold values comes nowhere near Current/Worst then it's okay?
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Nov 20, 2015 09:12
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nigga crab pollock posted:I've never messed with crossfire and i don't really know if it's worth it plus my poo poo is ancient, tell me if i should do it.
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Dec 6, 2015 00:35
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Turds in magma posted:Comcast just sent me an email, saying that I need to upgrade to a DOCSIS 3.0 modem to "take advantage of higher speeds" (sure......) http://www.amazon.com/Zoom-DOCSIS-Cable-Modem-5341J/dp/B0063K4NN6 Might have just been the unit I tried, but I haven't had any issues with the 5341J since setting it up with Comcast. future ghost fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Dec 7, 2015 |
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Dec 7, 2015 20:27
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teagone posted:This was an interesting read, thanks. And yeah, I suppose I should consider my case with Antec PSUs an outlier. I've just had bad luck with other PSUs like the couple of Rosewill and EVGA ones. The longest running PSU I had was an Antec Neo HE 430W PSU that came with a P150 case that I had used in my first dual-core PC build circa 2005(6?). That PSU lasted roughly 8 years before I decided to swap it out for a VP450 when I upgraded the rest of the internals. Rosewill and EVGA use a lot of different OEMs, some good and some complete poo poo. You can't rely on name-only with power supplies unfortunately. It was only extremely recently that EVGA switched primarily to using superflower and seasonic for their higher-end models and became worth recommending over (at the time) far better alternatives. I'm glad they've pushed standards up, but I'm not convinced they'll be able to maintain it since the low prices they've got probably aren't particularly profitable with their component choices even on the lower-end, and right now it seems like they're depending on sweetheart deals with their OEMs to get into a dominating position in the market. They probably won't go up like BFG, but it feels kinda familiar from when they were hitting their stride. At any rate, EVGAs success is making it more difficult for PSU companies to push old designs or pair decent (Teapo) primary caps with a mix of third or fourth-rate secondary parts like that inside those VP450s, and that's a very good thing.
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Dec 8, 2015 21:12
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Moola posted:Ok cheers I'll take your word for it
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Dec 10, 2015 20:18
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